Let's talk about 18" Wheel Fitments

[Shots]

I like that they, just like the OEM wheels, don't have a big bulbous center cap too. I don't know what the obsession is with adding a giant dome to the center of the wheel like some companies have. It's hideous.

 

[Shots]

BTW Brink Wheels, I really like that bronze set on the blue Ram featured on your website. Very similar to the TRX wheels, with a little twist. Nice work.
Now hurry up and make a set of those in 18" with a zero offset.

 

[Biggiehorn]

I'm far from an expert in this arena, but pumped to see that you are looking to offer 18's in your product line. I've wanted to drop down to an 18" wheel for awhile now, so definitely excited to see what options you push out. I know for me personally, I like a slightly aggressive stance. My current 20" wheels are -18 and I think the poke is near perfect for my liking, but not exactly sure how that would actually perform from an articulation standpoint in an off-road setting as mentioned above. Like several others stated, I think zero offset is probably a safe bet for the majority of buyers, but if I could have my cake and eat it too, I wouldn't mind seeing some negative offset options offered either lol.

 

[BRINK WHEELS]

BTW Brink Wheels, I really like that bronze set on the blue Ram featured on your website. Very similar to the TRX wheels, with a little twist. Nice work.
Now hurry up and make a set of those in 18" with a zero offset.

Thanks for the compliments! For the 18" we were planning a different design, you think the Insurgent would be a nice option?

 

[BRINK WHEELS]

I'm far from an expert in this arena, but pumped to see that you are looking to offer 18's in your product line. I've wanted to drop down to an 18" wheel for awhile now, so definitely excited to see what options you push out. I know for me personally, I like a slightly aggressive stance. My current 20" wheels are -18 and I think the poke is near perfect for my liking, but not exactly sure how that would actually perform from an articulation standpoint in an off-road setting as mentioned above. Like several others stated, I think zero offset is probably a safe bet for the majority of buyers, but if I could have my cake and eat it too, I wouldn't mind seeing some negative offset options offered either lol.

At present we're leaning towards 18x8.5 on +0 and +18 or +25. We're just carefully researching the +18 and +25 for now.

 

[scottmoyer]

Something to consider...

I have the TRX 18x9 wheels, but with the factory Rebel tires. The clearance on the tire to upper control arm was very close, so I could NOT go with a wider tire with the factory offset on the 18x9s. I added 1.5" spacers to the 18x9 wheel and now I had rubbing on the rear of the fender liner when turning. I do not have any lift or level, so use the information to determine the best offset if using an 18x9 and the 275 series tires. A lot of tire threads here discuss going to 295 or 305 wide tires. Neither would cleanly fit the 18x9 with a factory offset, and clear the UCA.

 

[djevox]

At present we're leaning towards 18x8.5 on +0 and +18 or +25. We're just carefully researching the +18 and +25 for now.

I’m thinking about guys with 34+” tires or wide tires. They might have to run spacers. However, that’s easier and safer than trying to mill a mounting surface to increase offset.

Edit: @scottmoyer beat me to it with his example.

 

[Shots]

Thanks for the compliments! For the 18" we were planning a different design, you think the Insurgent would be a nice option?

Yes, I do. Obviously appearance is subjective, but I think they've got just enough style so they don't look cheap while not being so over the top that they are gaudy and annoying to keep clean.

When I do any mods, my goal is that my truck doesn't look like every other one off the showroom floor, while keeping it close enough to stock design that people who don't know the brand can't tell if the mod is aftermarket or an upgraded trim package. It's a fine line between unique and gaudy. I think the Insurgent fits that criteria pretty well.
And on a side note, relating the response to the following, I would recommend making them in a 8" with maybe a 9" wide option.

Something to consider...

I have the TRX 18x9 wheels, but with the factory Rebel tires. The clearance on the tire to upper control arm was very close, so I could NOT go with a wider tire with the factory offset on the 18x9s.

This is the same issue with any of the OEM tires/offsets. Even the Rebel wheels (which I'm running) won't allow you to run anything wider than 295 without a spacer.
They have the same +19 offset as all the other stock wheels. I know a lot of people get caught up in the rim width when talking about offsets, but what gets lost/overlooked is that the tire overhangs the wheel. So 8" or 9" doesn't really matter.

To nerd out a little bit:
Color coded for easy reference = Rebel and TRX
A 285mm wide tire is 11.2" wide. Mounted on an 8" wide tire, you'll have 1.6" of tire overhanging the edge of the wheel (11.2" - 8" / 2 = 1.6"). If you put the same 285mm wide tire on a 9" wheel you have 1.1" of tire overhanging the edge of the wheel (11.2 - 9 / 2 = 1.1).
To relate that to offsets:
If both of the wheels have the same +19 offset with different widths (such as Rebel & TRX) the tire's edge in relation to the suspension is unchanged:
The centerline (and mounting surface) of the 8" wheel is obviously 4" (and 4.5" on the 9" wide) with a zero offset. By adding 19mm offset you're moving the mounting surface 3/4" (this is backspacing). So the inner edge of the wheel will be 4.75" from the mounting surface of the Rebel and 5.25" on the TRX. Logic tells most people that this means the tire will be closer to the suspension because the wheel's edge is closer. However, it seems to be forgotten or not understood, that the tire is overhanging more/less and negates that difference. When we factor those differences in (calculated above) we see the 8 vs 9 wheel width made no difference in clearing the suspension.

4.75 backspace + 1.6 overhang of tire = 6.35" from the mounting surface to the tire edge on Rebel 8" wheel.
5.25 backspace + 1.1 overhang of tire = 6.35" from the mounting surface to the tire edge on TRX 9" wheel.

So at the end of the day, the wheel width doesn't have the impact that people think on clearance. There are some nuances to this, which can have an impact of a few 32nds, but for the ease of explanation I calculated as if the tires are approved for and measured on those given rim widths. I'm trying not to completely derail the thread with extra, unnecessary math.

I added 1.5" spacers to the 18x9 wheel and now I had rubbing on the rear of the fender liner when turning. I do not have any lift or level, so use the information to determine the best offset if using an 18x9 and the 275 series tires. A lot of tire threads here discuss going to 295 or 305 wide tires. Neither would cleanly fit the 18x9 with a factory offset, and clear the UCA.

That's not unexpected to have the 1.5" spacer cause clearance issues on the opposite side. It's too much without a lift. This is why the zero offset is the sweet spot. Not only does it look good, but it pushes the tire out enough to clear the suspension, without causing clearance issues with the body.
With a lift or level you should be able to fit most 285" tires with a 1.5" spacer and not have any contact with the body or suspension.

FWIW, you should NOT mount a 275 wide tire on a 9" wide wheel. They will not seal properly and shops should refuse to install them. Unfortunately the tire is simply too narrow for the wheel. In fact some of the 285 tires are not rated to mount on a 9" wide wheel, but it's right at the edge so a lot of shops still do it. This concern actually includes the OEM Rebel wheels you have mounted (275/70/18 Goodyear Duratrac), which have an approved rim width of 7 - 8.5.

I’m thinking about guys with 34+” tires or wide tires. They might have to run spacers. However, that’s easier and safer than trying to mill a mounting surface to increase offset.

I'm not sure I follow. Why would you want to mill the mounting surface? That would add + offset and move the inboard side of the wheel closer to the UCA which would make things worse. They need to be pushed out a little bit, not in, so definitely spacers not milling. Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you meant though.

 

[djevox]

I'm not sure I follow. Why would you want to mill the mounting surface? That would add + offset and move the inboard side of the wheel closer to the UCA which would make things worse. They need to be pushed out a little bit, not in, so definitely spacers not milling. Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you meant though.

I’m saying if they wanted to choose a more versatile size, it’s easier to do it with +25 than +18. It’s easy to add a spacer to the +25 to reduce offset, but if someone wanted to reduce the +18 closer to +25, it would require milling and would reduce the strength of the center section. (Unless the wheel was designed with that in mind)

 

[Shots]

Ah, I see what you're saying. Thanks for clarifying.

 

[jimothy]

Yes, I do. Obviously appearance is subjective, but I think they've got just enough style so they don't look cheap while not being so over the top that they are gaudy and annoying to keep clean.

When I do any mods, my goal is that my truck doesn't look like every other one off the showroom floor, while keeping it close enough to stock design that people who don't know the brand can't tell if the mod is aftermarket or an upgraded trim package. It's a fine line between unique and gaudy. I think the Insurgent fits that criteria pretty well.
And on a side note, relating the response to the following, I would recommend making them in a 8" with maybe a 9" wide option.


This is the same issue with any of the OEM tires/offsets. Even the Rebel wheels (which I'm running) won't allow you to run anything wider than 295 without a spacer.
They have the same +19 offset as all the other stock wheels. I know a lot of people get caught up in the rim width when talking about offsets, but what gets lost/overlooked is that the tire overhangs the wheel. So 8" or 9" doesn't really matter.

To nerd out a little bit:
Color coded for easy reference = Rebel and TRX
A 285mm wide tire is 11.2" wide. Mounted on an 8" wide tire, you'll have 1.6" of tire overhanging the edge of the wheel (11.2" - 8" / 2 = 1.6"). If you put the same 285mm wide tire on a 9" wheel you have 1.1" of tire overhanging the edge of the wheel (11.2 - 9 / 2 = 1.1).
To relate that to offsets:
If both of the wheels have the same +19 offset with different widths (such as Rebel & TRX) the tire's edge in relation to the suspension is unchanged:
The centerline (and mounting surface) of the 8" wheel is obviously 4" (and 4.5" on the 9" wide) with a zero offset. By adding 19mm offset you're moving the mounting surface 3/4" (this is backspacing). So the inner edge of the wheel will be 4.75" from the mounting surface of the Rebel and 5.25" on the TRX. Logic tells most people that this means the tire will be closer to the suspension because the wheel's edge is closer. However, it seems to be forgotten or not understood, that the tire is overhanging more/less and negates that difference. When we factor those differences in (calculated above) we see the 8 vs 9 wheel width made no difference in clearing the suspension.

4.75 backspace + 1.6 overhang of tire = 6.35" from the mounting surface to the tire edge on Rebel 8" wheel.
5.25 backspace + 1.1 overhang of tire = 6.35" from the mounting surface to the tire edge on TRX 9" wheel.

So at the end of the day, the wheel width doesn't have the impact that people think on clearance. There are some nuances to this, which can have an impact of a few 32nds, but for the ease of explanation I calculated as if the tires are approved for and measured on those given rim widths. I'm trying not to completely derail the thread with extra, unnecessary math.


That's not unexpected to have the 1.5" spacer cause clearance issues on the opposite side. It's too much without a lift. This is why the zero offset is the sweet spot. Not only does it look good, but it pushes the tire out enough to clear the suspension, without causing clearance issues with the body.
With a lift or level you should be able to fit most 285" tires with a 1.5" spacer and not have any contact with the body or suspension.

FWIW, you should NOT mount a 275 wide tire on a 9" wide wheel. They will not seal properly and shops should refuse to install them. Unfortunately the tire is simply too narrow for the wheel. In fact some of the 285 tires are not rated to mount on a 9" wide wheel, but it's right at the edge so a lot of shops still do it. This concern actually includes the OEM Rebel wheels you have mounted (275/70/18 Goodyear Duratrac), which have an approved rim width of 7 - 8.5.


I'm not sure I follow. Why would you want to mill the mounting surface? That would add + offset and move the inboard side of the wheel closer to the UCA which would make things worse. They need to be pushed out a little bit, not in, so definitely spacers not milling. Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you meant though.

The rule of thumb I’ve seen is that an inch of difference in wheel width results in 4/10” difference in tire section width. So the overhang of 8” vs 9” wide would be 1.4” (rather than 1.6") vs 1.1”.

That’s not to disagree with your point, but just an additional factor to consider.

 

[Belvedere]

If the Insurgent didn't have the pockets and elliptical cutouts, . I prefer the Fang.

 

[silverWS6]

I like that they, just like the OEM wheels, don't have a big bulbous center cap too. I don't know what the obsession is with adding a giant dome to the center of the wheel like some companies have. It's hideous.

This, I hate this! It's exactly why I bought the smaller centercaps for my wheels.

I think most companies do it to give the appearance of "locking hubs"? Or the 2500 look?

And pertaining to this thread, my previous wheels came in a +18. I had to change out my wheels to a -12 because I wanted 35's and I wasn't comfortable with running spacers (I do offroad occasionally).

With the Rebel, or any trim with stock flares, the -12 sits just perfect. Imo.

 

[BRINK WHEELS]

This, I hate this! It's exactly why I bought the smaller centercaps for my wheels.

I think most companies do it to give the appearance of "locking hubs"? Or the 2500 look?

And pertaining to this thread, my previous wheels came in a +18. I had to change out my wheels to a -12 because I wanted 35's and I wasn't comfortable with running spacers (I do offroad occasionally).

With the Rebel, or any trim with stock flares, the -12 sits just perfect. Imo.

View attachment 135448

Wow that's pretty much flush. What width are your wheels?

 

[Shots]

The rule of thumb I’ve seen is that an inch of difference in wheel width results in 4/10” difference in tire section width. So the overhang of 8” vs 9” wide would be 1.4” (rather than 1.6") vs 1.1”.

That’s not to disagree with your point, but just an additional factor to consider.

You are correct, that the measured rim width vs actual width will impact the width of the tire (albeit minimally). That's why I noted that my calculations were "measured on those given rim widths". Each tire manufacturer uses whatever size wheel they want to designate the width of the tire, so some may spec them on a 7.5" wheel while another does it on a 9" wheel. No rhyme or reason as far as I know. And even those measured tire widths are subject to some variation. Nuances. But, assuming the tire is designated for that particular width wheel, the 8 vs 9 is a non-factor. But yes, it is something to consider.

This, I hate this! It's exactly why I bought the smaller centercaps for my wheels.

I think most companies do it to give the appearance of "locking hubs"? Or the 2500 look?

And pertaining to this thread, my previous wheels came in a +18. I had to change out my wheels to a -12 because I wanted 35's and I wasn't comfortable with running spacers (I do offroad occasionally).

That does look good. I currently have a set of 35's on my Rebel 18's. No spacer required, BUT they are also a 285 width (285/75/18). The selection for that size is very limited and they're not cheap. If there was a good 18" wheel with a zero offset I could have used those with a different tire size that could have been cheaper and more readily available.

 

[silverWS6]

Wow that's pretty much flush. What width are your wheels?

18x9

 

[BRINK WHEELS]

maybe make a 17 that fits our brakes


but serious note my 18 rim are -12 and i also would rather have the zero offset

So we test fit our new 17x8.5 +0 yesterday on a 22 Tundra and they worked. We're going to test fit on our RAM really soon.

 

[Shots]

Hate to be the bearer of bad news but they won't fit. The brake calipers are too large. A 17" wheel won't clear them.
In fact the 18" wheel just barely does. It's so close that wheel weights will contact them if they're placed in the path of the caliper. In the below image, my weights were placed along the red line (drawn in for reference). As you can see, the edges near the groove in the wheel were contacting the caliper. I had to remove the weights, and put them in the photographed position so they don't hit the caliper. It was minimal contact, but it made a ticking noise and I'm sure it would have knocked the weights off pretty quick. These are just the standard stick on wheel weights that are probably no more than 1/8" thick, so there's no way we'll be able to fit a wheel with a 1/2" smaller radius over the brakes. I do like that you're exploring options though.

 

[sylent_snyper]

Had the same problem with wheel weights. Oddly enough, they were fine until I rotated the tires and then got the "clicking" sound you referenced. Weights had to be moved due to hitting the caliper.

 

[BRINK WHEELS]

Hate to be the bearer of bad news but they won't fit. The brake calipers are too large. A 17" wheel won't clear them.
In fact the 18" wheel just barely does. It's so close that wheel weights will contact them if they're placed in the path of the caliper. In the below image, my weights were placed along the red line (drawn in for reference). As you can see, the edges near the groove in the wheel were contacting the caliper. I had to remove the weights, and put them in the photographed position so they don't hit the caliper. It was minimal contact, but it made a ticking noise and I'm sure it would have knocked the weights off pretty quick. These are just the standard stick on wheel weights that are probably no more than 1/8" thick, so there's no way we'll be able to fit a wheel with a 1/2" smaller radius over the brakes. I do like that you're exploring options though.

Had the same problem with wheel weights. Oddly enough, they were fine until I rotated the tires and then got the "clicking" sound you referenced. Weights had to be moved due to hitting the caliper.

Thanks for the feedback!

The diameter of the wheel plays a major role but the drop center of the barrel is the culprit. We've seen instances were 18" wheels don't clear while a 17" will and that's only because of the drop center of the 17" has the proper barrel draft while the 18" doesn't. Being we have a 2021 RAM in our parking lot that belongs to our operations manager It won't hurt to test I guess. I'll make sure to position wheel weights in the right place to properly test.