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LED Bedlight Wiring

If I want to tap in to the lights so that the bed lights come on when I drop the tailgate does anyone know how involved that would be? I don't have the factory bed lights but I can't see anything at night with my cover on. Would be nice to have them sync with the rest of the lights.

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If I want to tap in to the lights so that the bed lights come on when I drop the tailgate does anyone know how involved that would be? I don't have the factory bed lights but I can't see anything at night with my cover on. Would be nice to have them sync with the rest of the lights.

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Use a magnetic switch.
10:00 mark.
 
This is the method I went with a few months ago on my lone star 1500. Worked as shown in the video with the interior switch, doors open and button on the bed light. No issues.


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I bought a set of LED strips lights as I didn’t want to use the OEM mopar lights because they don’t put off enough light and also because I have a tonneau cover so the cargo light won’t be involved for light in the enclose bed. My question is will this work the same for the LED strip lights or is this method specifically for the Mopar lights.
 
I bought a set of LED strips lights as I didn’t want to use the OEM mopar lights because they don’t put off enough light and also because I have a tonneau cover so the cargo light won’t be involved for light in the enclose bed. My question is will this work the same for the LED strip lights or is this method specifically for the Mopar lights.
I used generic LED strips off Amazon.
 
I purchased mine from Amazon also. That video shows two pins he tapped into on two different connectors. One was white & violet tracer wire. But then he tapped into a tan & white wire on a second connector. Just trying to understand how this would correlate to the LED strips. The wires on the led strips are reds for 12v and black for ground. So I’m not sure which wire I need to tap into exactly for 12v cargo light. Any hep is welcome.


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I purchased mine from Amazon also. That video shows two pins he tapped into on two different connectors. One was white & violet tracer wire. But then he tapped into a tan & white wire on a second connector. Just trying to understand how this would correlate to the LED strips. The wires on the led strips are reds for 12v and black for ground. So I’m not sure which wire I need to tap into exactly for 12v cargo light. Any hep is welcome.


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I ran a fused red line all the way from the battery to a magnetic switch and grounded on a bolt near the spare. I kept the manufacturer installed switch for on/off. You can use the 7 pin connector too for 12V+.

If you want to use the cargo light heres a thread that did that.

 
Hey Guys,
I recently installed aftermarket bed lights and they work great. I wired constant power to a switch and then to the positive of the lights. Everything is good and works as expected. After using it for a few weeks, I realized it would be really nice if the LEDs came on automatically when the tailgate opens. I dont want to mess with a tilt or pin switch on the tailgate.

I have two wiring questions:

1. Can I wire the white wire/tan tracer directly to the side of the switch that connects to positive of LEDs? That way when the white wire/tan tracer is live (cargo light), the lights will go on. If that wire is off, I can still turn the switch on to turn the lights on. I would think normal opoeation it would be ok. But what if the OEM cargo light was on and I accidentally turned on the bed light switch as well? Would that mess with the white/tan wire at all (will it turn the cargo light indicator on in the dash? will it mess with the cargo light switch in the cab? etc).

2. The safer option, but a bit more work, I believe I can introduce a 5 pin SPDT relay setup like below:
Pin 85 - Ground
Pin 30 - Constant 12V
Pin 86 - White Wire/Tan Tracer (trigger)
Pin 87a - Hot when no trigger is present - this would go to the switch which would then be connected to the positive of LEDs. This would allow the switch to work with the cargo light off.
Pin 87 - Hot when trigger is present - this would go to the positive of the LEDs. This would allow the bed lights to go on when the tailgate opens/cargo light on.

I have only used SPST relays before - can someone check that I have that setup properly? I attached a drawing as it is hard to follow by just describing.

Thanks,
Brian
I ran a fused red line all the way from the battery to a magnetic switch and grounded on a bolt near the spare. I kept the manufacturer installed switch for on/off. You can use the 7 pin connector too for 12V+.

If you want to use the cargo light heres a thread that did that.

Thanks for the reply. I want my lights to work with cargo light switch on the dash, unlock button, tailgare down, as well the switch on the led strip.
 
Great info on this thread! I used the dual strip Amazon lights, got a simple on/off relay with wireless FOB. I wired straight to the hot and ground trailer wiring with an inline fuse under the tow hitch. I chose the relay/key FOB over the cargo wire connection (and instead of the included switch) for 2 reasons. I have a tonneau cover and didn’t want the LED’s to light EVERY time the cargo light activates and/or tailgate was opened. And it was much easier to wire to the trailer/hitch wiring. I soldered everything in nicely, and I covered the relay contacts with a couple layers of liquid electrical tape and concealed inside the passenger side tail light space. So far I couldn’t be happier. I’ve only left lights on accidentally for an hour or two during the day - no battery drain issues yet - that’s my biggest fear or hitch in the system... if the fob is pressed inside my jean pocket it can turn on the lights.
 
Great info on this thread! I used the dual strip Amazon lights, got a simple on/off relay with wireless FOB. I wired straight to the hot and ground trailer wiring with an inline fuse under the tow hitch. I chose the relay/key FOB over the cargo wire connection (and instead of the included switch) for 2 reasons. I have a tonneau cover and didn’t want the LED’s to light EVERY time the cargo light activates and/or tailgate was opened. And it was much easier to wire to the trailer/hitch wiring. I soldered everything in nicely, and I covered the relay contacts with a couple layers of liquid electrical tape and concealed inside the passenger side tail light space. So far I couldn’t be happier. I’ve only left lights on accidentally for an hour or two during the day - no battery drain issues yet - that’s my biggest fear or hitch in the system... if the fob is pressed inside my jean pocket it can turn on the lights.
I was in the same boat. I only wanted the lights when i dropped the tailgate as I have a tonneau too. Did not need it linked to cargo light. Magnetic switch works great for that.20200824_062948.jpg
 
I just installed these tonight: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KXR799K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have the factory bed lights. All I did was remove the tail lights to get to the wiring harness for the bed lights and wired them directly into that (just red to red and black to black). Works perfect - they come on with when the doors or tail gate opens, and turn off when closed. They also come on and off with the switch in the cab and with the switch on the factory lights.

View attachment 53018
View attachment 53019
Hey, I just tried this. Did you do the same on both sides, or wire them both to one side? I got the passenger side to turn on going red to red/black to black, but the same doesn’t work on the drivers side. It appears there is a brown wire that is hot as well. Appreciate any insight you might have.
 
It was so long ago I honestly can't remember. I feel like I wired them the same on both sides, but not 100% sure.
 
It was so long ago I honestly can't remember. I feel like I wired them the same on both sides, but not 100% sure.
Figured it out. Was just a bad connector on the LED. Thanks!
 

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I ran a fused red line all the way from the battery to a magnetic switch and grounded on a bolt near the spare. I kept the manufacturer installed switch for on/off. You can use the 7 pin connector too for 12V+.
Great info on this thread! I used the dual strip Amazon lights, got a simple on/off relay with wireless FOB. I wired straight to the hot and ground trailer wiring with an inline fuse under the tow hitch. I chose the relay/key FOB over the cargo wire connection (and instead of the included switch) for 2 reasons. I have a tonneau cover and didn’t want the LED’s to light EVERY time the cargo light activates and/or tailgate was opened. And it was much easier to wire to the trailer/hitch wiring. I soldered everything in nicely, and I covered the relay contacts with a couple layers of liquid electrical tape and concealed inside the passenger side tail light space. So far I couldn’t be happier. I’ve only left lights on accidentally for an hour or two during the day - no battery drain issues yet - that’s my biggest fear or hitch in the system... if the fob is pressed inside my jean pocket it can turn on the lights.
Is there no power signal from the tailgate lock? Then you don't have to install a magnetic switch.
 
I just installed these tonight: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KXR799K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have the factory bed lights. All I did was remove the tail lights to get to the wiring harness for the bed lights and wired them directly into that (just red to red and black to black). Works perfect - they come on with when the doors or tail gate opens, and turn off when closed. They also come on and off with the switch in the cab and with the switch on the factory lights.

View attachment 53018
View attachment 53019
My first post on this forum, and I wanted to use it to say thanks! After searching and searching for tips on running courtesy lights above my power steps for my 21 Ram Limited, it ended up being as simple as red to red and black to black. Took a little while to run the wires to the taillight area, but all works exactly how you described,and how I wanted. thanks again!
 
My first post on this forum, and I wanted to use it to say thanks! After searching and searching for tips on running courtesy lights above my power steps for my 21 Ram Limited, it ended up being as simple as red to red and black to black. Took a little while to run the wires to the taillight area, but all works exactly how you described,and how I wanted. thanks again!
Did you use a T-tap or...what?
I'm reluctant to compromise factory wiring in any way, but I would love to have the factory functionality as described.
 
Did you use a T-tap or...what?
I'm reluctant to compromise factory wiring in any way, but I would love to have the factory functionality as described.

I just used t-taps. Connected right behind the the bed cargo light. That way the t-taps are not exposed to the elements.
 
Did you use a T-tap or...what?
I'm reluctant to compromise factory wiring in any way, but I would love to have the factory functionality as described.

You can use a Y harness like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/131330539877 as to retain your factory harness intact and just cut up the new Y harness.

Here's how I did my lighting a while back, minus the Y harness which I eventually added after adding aux reverse lights.
 
You can use a Y harness like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/131330539877 as to retain your factory harness intact and just cut up the new Y harness.

Here's how I did my lighting a while back, minus the Y harness which I eventually added after adding aux reverse lights.
Thanks, I do have what you call a Y harness, from the mfr CURT. Unfortunately, the one I bought only duplicates 5 of the 7 trailer harness wires. I originally got it for aux reverse lights. At that time, I planned to tie in with factory wiring for the LED bed lights. I have the OEM bed utility group that includes lights like the ones in your video. The ones I'm adding are like others in this thread, 5 ft of LED strip on either side.

I like that magnet switch you have. Works great and that location is very good.
 

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