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Kill Switch

Interested DIYer

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I am thinking about hiding a switch that can be thrown to break the output from the fuse in the F11 spot in the Internal Power Distribution Center (the "IPDC", which is under the steering wheel) to the Under-hood Power Distribution Center (the "UPDC") . If I do, I'd use the same size wire that is already there, and the total length of the wire would not be more than 10', with the switch in the middle of it and hidden somewhere. I don't think I'd need anything else in that line but the wire and a switch, but you guys who know more about electronics than I do would have to tell me. It looks to me like the effect of breaking that circuit by throwing such a switch would be to render the run coil inoperative.

My intention is to make stealing my truck more difficult for the fob cloners (which I hear are in big business - mob theft on a large scale). I heard one story of a truck being taken from the midwest being found in a cargo container on the east coast just a day or two later. I have seen the Faraday pouches and know they work, but staying consistent in their use is a hassle.

Anyway, before I try this idea out, can anyone warn me away from some downside I am not seeing? (I already understand the downside of unintentionally throwing the switch "open" while driving). Wouldn't I avoid throwing any codes if I never "open" the switch while the ignition is on?

My truck is a Laramie Longhorn
 

Richard320

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1) My concern was raised about theft mainly because of the fob cloners. If that type of thief opens the locks on my door with his cloned fob and then tries to start my car with the dash button, but fails because of a brake signal interrupt, couldn't he still remote start my vehicle using his cloned fob?

2) I need to find the proper wire to splice the switch into, and am having some trouble. ...

Again - all I aim to do is cut an appropriate wire, and splice a length of similarly sized wire into the cut. then I would just run that extra length away from the splice toward my hiding spot for the switch, cut it, splice the switch into it, and be done with it. Maybe that is to simple, but if it is, I need for one of you electronics guys to advise me of a better way.
1) Yes. Because for all intents and purposes he has your fob.
2) I just went out and tried this. I started it with the fob, and unlocked the doors with the fob and got in. Engine running. Won't come out of gear unless brake is applied and start button is pushed. So whichever is easier, cut into the brake switch -- should be up on the pedal arm somewhere -- or into the start button wiring. They can get in, they can start it, but they can't move it.
 

c3k

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According to my 2019 model year wiring diagrams, F11 on the Internal PDC goes back out to the Underhood PDC to energize a relay that provides power to the windshield de-icer.
View attachment 87142

Personally, I recommend inserting your switch into something a bit more critical, such as the fuze that feeds the fuel pump. You'll find that in the Underhood PDC at FUSE 1.
View attachment 87143

As for codes, if you tried to start the engine with the fuel pump electrically isolated, probably, because lack of fuel pressure at the sensor.
If you remembered to close the switch before attempting engine start, seems everything should be okay.
Never really know until you test it, though.

Steve
@stevj
I'm looking for a source for a manual for my 2021 Ram. (I'm an optimist: I think my mid-February factory ordered truck will be here in just a few more months. ;) )

The wiring diagrams you posted look just like what I'm trying to get. Where did you get yours?

Thanks!

Ken
 

DSN46

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Maybe I’m way off base here, but back in the day we would just interrupt the power to the starter motor with an inline switch hidden somewhere under the dash. It was very easy to do. Is there something about these trucks that would prevent us from doing such a thing?
 

Interested DIYer

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Well - back to the drawing board.

I crawled under the dash to look for the switch that 19North referred to, and I pulled the plug that seemed most proximate to the brake pedal arm, but the truck started right up like nothing was wrong. (The plug is shown in the attached photo to the right of the white square with the blue dot on it.) I could not find any other switch. If any of you have a 2020 RAM 1500, then you will probably see the place if you look, and I'd bet yours will have a blue dot on it also. (I think the orientation of that photo is messed up, but if you look above the brake pedal arm and a little to the driver's (left) side, you will find it.)

As a second attempt, I pulled the left plug on the left circuit board attached to the firewall. It is the one my finger is on in the photo. That threw a fault referring to the retractable running boards, but again, the truck started right up.

Somebody - anybody who knows - please send me a photo or a good description of a wire to splice the kill switch into. I'd love knowing about one under the dash so I do not have to run a line all the way to the starter motor wire under that honkin' big 40a fuse in the EPDC.

Thanks Underdash 2020 RAM 1500 2.jpg Underdash 2020 RAM 1500 1.jpg
 

lpartridge

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well, I wanted to install a kill switch, and I unplugged the plug from the back of the starter button. and on the plug, there are four small wires just need to find the one to splice to so I won't have to be guessing on which one. does anyone have an idea and or wiring diagram for these four wires.
truck.jpg
 

FM45

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Not sure if it's simply cutting a wire for a kill... but---- pts1_16865_0.jpg

I believe Red is 12v ... just test--

-=FM45=-
 

lpartridge

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ok, thanks I found a T-Harness I bought that plugs into the switch and then the plugs into the other t part and see if I can use that for kill switch hopefully.
 
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Willwork4truck

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Wayyy back in the day we’d take the center coil eire off the distributor cap.
Doesn't help now...

Maybe some kind of battery positive post on/off switch?
 

lpartridge

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Well, the Kill switch worked out great and was very simple after I got the THAR-CHR7 T harness off ebay. Just cut the red wire, and everything works great. Thanks, FM45, for the Red wire advice.
 

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A-TEAM

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Does interrupting the red wire at the ignition connector also disable the cloned fob attacks? I mean will the fob still unlock and/or remote start the truck? Or is this just a basic starter kill at the button? Useful information here, thanks for posting.
 

Richard320

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Does interrupting the red wire at the ignition connector also disable the cloned fob attacks? I mean will the fob still unlock and/or remote start the truck? Or is this just a basic starter kill at the button? Useful information here, thanks for posting.
Even if it's remote started, you still have to press the brake and the start button to wake up everything. It won't come out of gear, and I never tried but I suspect the parking brake also wont release.
 

A-TEAM

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Im about to add this kill switch to mine. Did you ever determine if this method works if the vehicle is remote started?
 

sd2134

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Web page where a guy took his Ravelco apart, very very simple device.


You could probably make your own from a mil-spec bayonet connector, correct gauge wire of the same color and some flex conduit.

 

leroyg

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Living in South Texas on the border , let me pile on the Ravelco anti theft device. I have had
it on all my trucks. The only draw back is you will not be able to use the remote start.
Leroy
 

bigdodge

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Mountain Whiskey

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Yea, I pointed it out in another thread. Wouldn't it just be more fun to put a wire mat on your seat and tie it into the 110v outlet?

Jump in and start it. Refried beans for you border guys.
 

A-TEAM

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Also got this info from a car alarm installer. Have not tested it but here is what he told me.

Starter wire. Lt blue/tan. Bcm above drivers kick. Black 24 pin plug. Pin 19.

pparently opening this wire will disable the starter.
 

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