Kill Switch

[Interested DIYer]

I am thinking about hiding a switch that can be thrown to break the output from the fuse in the F11 spot in the Internal Power Distribution Center (the "IPDC", which is under the steering wheel) to the Under-hood Power Distribution Center (the "UPDC") . If I do, I'd use the same size wire that is already there, and the total length of the wire would not be more than 10', with the switch in the middle of it and hidden somewhere. I don't think I'd need anything else in that line but the wire and a switch, but you guys who know more about electronics than I do would have to tell me. It looks to me like the effect of breaking that circuit by throwing such a switch would be to render the run coil inoperative.

My intention is to make stealing my truck more difficult for the fob cloners (which I hear are in big business - mob theft on a large scale). I heard one story of a truck being taken from the midwest being found in a cargo container on the east coast just a day or two later. I have seen the Faraday pouches and know they work, but staying consistent in their use is a hassle.

Anyway, before I try this idea out, can anyone warn me away from some downside I am not seeing? (I already understand the downside of unintentionally throwing the switch "open" while driving). Wouldn't I avoid throwing any codes if I never "open" the switch while the ignition is on?

My truck is a Laramie Longhorn

 

[stevj]

According to my 2019 model year wiring diagrams, F11 on the Internal PDC goes back out to the Underhood PDC to energize a relay that provides power to the windshield de-icer.


Personally, I recommend inserting your switch into something a bit more critical, such as the fuze that feeds the fuel pump. You'll find that in the Underhood PDC at FUSE 1.


As for codes, if you tried to start the engine with the fuel pump electrically isolated, probably, because lack of fuel pressure at the sensor.
If you remembered to close the switch before attempting engine start, seems everything should be okay.
Never really know until you test it, though.

Steve

 

[glasswagon]

check out: https://www.ravelco.com/

I had it on my 2017 ram 2500, loved it

 

[Willwork4truck]

Hey, it might keep it from being stolen in N Ontario or N Alberta up Ft McMurray way... those windshield deicers are important!

 

[Willwork4truck]

Used to be people used "The Club" but you never see those around anymore...

The Club 1000 Original Club Steering Wheel Lock, Red​

Brand: Winner International
4.7 out of 5 stars 1,507 ratings

| 127 answered questions

Amazon'sChoicefor "car club steering wheel lock"

---

Price:

$44.99

 

[Scap]

check out: https://www.ravelco.com/

I had it on my 2017 ram 2500, loved it

Haven't seen one of those since my grandfather had one on his mid 80's Chevy.
Way back then, we heard the potato rumor to bypass these, but a quick Google and YouTube search couldn't confirm anything.

If it is truly 44 years and not one vehicle stolen, that is amazing.

 

[Scap]

Used to be people used "The Club" but you never see those around anymore...

The Club 1000 Original Club Steering Wheel Lock, Red​

Brand: Winner International
4.7 out of 5 stars 1,507 ratings

| 127 answered questions

Amazon'sChoicefor "car club steering wheel lock"

---

Price:

$44.99

There's a Tesla, that parks across the street from me, driven by a really old guy that still uses a club...

 

[Richard320]

The plan makes sense to me. Break out a voltmeter and see what dies when f11 is removed. I see it triggering a relay that powers the defroster and other stuff -- that arrow indicates other wiring not shown on this chart. So check juice at the coils and the fuel injectors.

 

[Interested DIYer]

check out: https://www.ravelco.com/

I had it on my 2017 ram 2500, loved it

Thanks for the tip. About how much did it set you back?

 

[Willwork4truck]

There's a Tesla, that parks across the street from me, driven by a really old guy that still uses a club...

Yep, us old guys do things like that...

 

[Rock Crawler]

check out: https://www.ravelco.com/

I had it on my 2017 ram 2500, loved it

I’ll second the Ravelco. I have it on my Jeep and had it on my previous truck as well. Thinking of adding it to my current truck.

 

[glasswagon]

Thanks for the tip. About how much did it set you back?

I believe I paid $300 for the part and labor.

 

[sppb32]

Your best bet, if you want to keep it simple and use a switch is to disable the brake signal, you can still remote start it but you can't start it with the push button or put it in gear, my throttle controller has an anti theft feature once enabled you have to input a code or it won't go past idle, it's pretty cool.

 

[glasswagon]

Your best bet, if you want to keep it simple and use a switch is to disable the brake signal, you can still remote start it but you can't start it with the push button or put it in gear, my throttle controller has an anti theft feature once enabled you have to input a code or it won't go past idle, it's pretty cool.

which throttle controller are you using?

 

[stevj]

Your best bet, if you want to keep it simple and use a switch is to disable the brake signal, you can still remote start it but you can't start it with the push button or put it in gear, my throttle controller has an anti theft feature once enabled you have to input a code or it won't go past idle, it's pretty cool.

I like the brake signal interrupt idea. Much simpler to implement.
And if a brake pedal press is required to get the engine out of remote start and switched into Run, all the better.

Steve

 

[NorthStar]

which throttle controller are you using?

I’m relatively certain he is running the following based upon previous posts:

Amazon.com: HIKEit Pedal Throttle Response Controller Chip Tuning HI-589 for Jeep Wrangler JK 2007-2018 (Fits All Trim Levels; Unlimited, Sport, Sahara, Rubicon) Performance Module: Automotive

Buy HIKEit Pedal Throttle Response Controller Chip Tuning HI-589 for Jeep Wrangler JK 2007-2018 (Fits All Trim Levels; Unlimited, Sport, Sahara, Rubicon) Performance Module: Engine Management Systems - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[Interested DIYer]

Hey sppb332 and Stevej -

a couple of questions . . .

1) My concern was raised about theft mainly because of the fob cloners. If that type of thief opens the locks on my door with his cloned fob and then tries to start my car with the dash button, but fails because of a brake signal interrupt, couldn't he still remote start my vehicle using his cloned fob?

2) I need to find the proper wire to splice the switch into, and am having some trouble. My idea of using the wire going through the fuse at F11 in the IPDC did NOT work at all. I pulled the fuse out and the truck started right up like nothing was wrong. I then pulled the Fuel Pump Motor fuse at position F01 in the EPDC under the hood (which I erroneously referred to as the "UPDC" at the start of this thread). That worked (sort of) but it was a little delayed. The line had enough gas in it to let the truck get started, though it did not take long to die. Looking for a better option, I did notice that pulling the 40a fuse for the starter that is at position F40 in the EPDC worked to defeat a start. But after I attempted to crank the truck by pushing the button and it didn't crank, I then could not make the truck ignition turn back off for some reason. new "pushes" on the button did nothing. The indicator above the start button in the dash just stayed in the "On" position, so I stuck that fuse back in. Just where is the brake signal wire that Stevej is referring to? What color is it? (I have to admit, the wiring diagrams Stevej put up are over my head. I'm not smart enough to know what they mean, but I can trace a wire and splice and insulate pretty well.)

Again - all I aim to do is cut an appropriate wire, and splice a length of similarly sized wire into the cut. then I would just run that extra length away from the splice toward my hiding spot for the switch, cut it, splice the switch into it, and be done with it. Maybe that is to simple, but if it is, I need for one of you electronics guys to advise me of a better way.

Also, I have realized that if I pt the switch where I cannot see it, and I wish not to use a lighted switch, I need to buy one that is low profile certainly) but which permits me to know whether it is open or closed by feel rather than by sight. That means I plan not to use a push button type of switch that alternates between off and on.; Instead, I plan to use something like the one at this link - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G17HWW8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A39W6H6E2TW06C&psc=1

Thanks for any help you can supply

 

[19 North]

I’m not up to date on new vehicles, but as far as the late 90’s there was a momentary switch that is tripped by moving the brake pedal. It is simple to see if one is there. Look towards the top of the lever while moving the pedal.
You need to know the amperage of the circuit you’re breaking and use a large enough switch or relay. Putting a 10 amp switch on a 20 amp circuit wouldn’t be good.

 

[sppb32]

I’m relatively certain he is running the following based upon previous posts:

Amazon.com: HIKEit Pedal Throttle Response Controller Chip Tuning HI-589 for Jeep Wrangler JK 2007-2018 (Fits All Trim Levels; Unlimited, Sport, Sahara, Rubicon) Performance Module: Automotive

Buy HIKEit Pedal Throttle Response Controller Chip Tuning HI-589 for Jeep Wrangler JK 2007-2018 (Fits All Trim Levels; Unlimited, Sport, Sahara, Rubicon) Performance Module: Engine Management Systems - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Yes, that's the one.

Sent from my SM-G977U using Tapatalk

 

[sppb32]

Hey sppb332 and Stevej -

a couple of questions . . .

1) My concern was raised about theft mainly because of the fob cloners. If that type of thief opens the locks on my door with his cloned fob and then tries to start my car with the dash button, but fails because of a brake signal interrupt, couldn't he still remote start my vehicle using his cloned fob?

2) I need to find the proper wire to splice the switch into, and am having some trouble. My idea of using the wire going through the fuse at F11 in the IPDC did NOT work at all. I pulled the fuse out and the truck started right up like nothing was wrong. I then pulled the Fuel Pump Motor fuse at position F01 in the EPDC under the hood (which I erroneously referred to as the "UPDC" at the start of this thread). That worked (sort of) but it was a little delayed. The line had enough gas in it to let the truck get started, though it did not take long to die. Looking for a better option, I did notice that pulling the 40a fuse for the starter that is at position F40 in the EPDC worked to defeat a start. But after I attempted to crank the truck by pushing the button and it didn't crank, I then could not make the truck ignition turn back off for some reason. new "pushes" on the button did nothing. The indicator above the start button in the dash just stayed in the "On" position, so I stuck that fuse back in. Just where is the brake signal wire that Stevej is referring to? What color is it? (I have to admit, the wiring diagrams Stevej put up are over my head. I'm not smart enough to know what they mean, but I can trace a wire and splice and insulate pretty well.)

Again - all I aim to do is cut an appropriate wire, and splice a length of similarly sized wire into the cut. then I would just run that extra length away from the splice toward my hiding spot for the switch, cut it, splice the switch into it, and be done with it. Maybe that is to simple, but if it is, I need for one of you electronics guys to advise me of a better way.

Also, I have realized that if I pt the switch where I cannot see it, and I wish not to use a lighted switch, I need to buy one that is low profile certainly) but which permits me to know whether it is open or closed by feel rather than by sight. That means I plan not to use a push button type of switch that alternates between off and on.; Instead, I plan to use something like the one at this link - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G17HWW8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A39W6H6E2TW06C&psc=1

Thanks for any help you can supply

It can be remote started but without the brake signal he can't put it in gear, I never looked I to it but I'm sure it's possible and very easy, you just have to do some tests.

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