5thGenRams Forums

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Intermittent Starting Issue - Click/ no start

Chystead

Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2023
Messages
10
Reaction score
4
Hey guys,

First of all, love this forum and all the information thats available on here. I’ve already learned so much about my truck from doing reading on here, mainly regarding the problems that some are riddled with.

Owner of a 2019 Ram Sport 5.7 non etorque With 167k. Bought this truck 2nd hand about 2 Months ago, and is my first Ram, was previously a GM guy. Switched to Ram cause I love their look, and the interior of these trucks are amazing.

First week or so owning the truck, no issues at all. Few weeks in, and once the weather started to get colder I went out one morning and truck wouldn’t start, just a click from the starter solenoid. Assumed battery was dead, so jumped it with my wife’s SUV, and eventually started up. I only drive 2km to work each way, so chalked it up as the short trips weren’t charging the battery, so started hooking my Noco charger to it over night. Truck ended up needing to be boosted a few more times at work, so bought a new H7 AGM Energizer battery from Costco to replace the Mopar that was in it, hoped problem solved.

Few days with the new battery, again discovered it wouldn’t start, just clicked. At this point I’m pissed, and frustrated. Jumped it like all the other times, and like always it eventually started. At this point I assume there’s a draw from something, disconnected the negative terminal, and checked for a parasitic draw. With my multimeter measuring between the negative terminal and negative post on the battery, I watched the voltage bounce around pretty drastically right off the bat, but eventually settled and stayed constant at like 25ma. Did some reading, and read these trucks take awhile for everything to go to sleep, so assumed the initial voltage bouncing is modules waking up when I first connect my meter to the post and terminal, and then they go back to sleep, 25ma seemed to be a non issue from what I read.

Again, kept my Noco charger hooked up every night to the new H7 battery just to reassure myself I wouldnt have a dead truck at work again, but I did.. At this point I’m still thinking there’s a draw somewhere, or something is turning on randomly several hours after which I’m not seeing with my meter since I’m not hanging out under the hood for hours. After needing to jump this new battery probably like 10+ times, I’m feeling it’s probably done some damage, or dropped a cell, or maybe is was a defective battery to begin with. Return the H7 to Costco, and replace with a new H8 AGM Energizer battery, problem has to be fixed now! Installed the H8 and hooked the charger to it overnight, started right up in the morning, and no issues at work. Hooked up my charger again that night, and again no issues starting in the morning, but experience a no start at work, just a single click from the solenoid. When this happens, truck has only been sitting from 730am-1230pm and I’m trying to go home for lunch, so now I’m mind boggled that this new H8 battery that has had the charger on it the night prior it giving me issues again. Pulled up the voltage on the dash, and it’s telling me it’s 12.5-12.6, which tells Me this bastard should be starting. Recall reading on the forum of others having the clicking and no start, and tried pushing the start/stop button several times and eventually it would start. So I do the same thing, cycle the ignition with the button about 4-5 times and sure enough it cranks. Now I’m convinced this isn’t a battery or draw issue, I’m leaning towards the starter.

Before getting the starter replaced, there was more occasions where truck wouldn’t crank, just a click, now even in the morning with the charger hooked on it. Get the starter replaced yesterday by a mechanic buddy thinking this is it, now I can enjoy my truck, and sure enough just clicks and doesn’t crank before we can even get it off the jack stand with the new starter. Took like 30-40 cycles of the ignition, and eventually fired up with the new starter. This morning I went out, unhooked my charger and tried to use my fob to remote start, click.. f***, go in the cab and push the start button, and it cranks. At this point my fuel light is on cause I’ve been too paranoid to take it to get gas fearing it won’t crank up, but I have no choice now. Go to the gas station, shut it down, fill it up, I get back in and hit the button, click. Repeat 3 times, click, click, click, try again, and it cranks thankfully.

Now Im here writing this long winded story of my recent Ram life looking for answers. Have read lots about the RF hub and the back window. Sure enough I have 2 cracks in my back power window trim and looks like water has leaked through at some point. I have been taking this thing through an automatic wash regularly, I didn’t check/notice this back window till recent, but safe to say if I go through the auto wash again I’ll be seeing water come in around the window. Seen the TSB recently released that extends coverage on the back windows, so I’ll be looking to get that done and will try and push the dealership to replace the HUb at the same time, but I’m hesitant to think the Rf hub is causing this starting nightmare, because my fobs work to lock/unlock the truck without issue. I’ll be going out shortly to check body grounds and see if there’s anything else i can find, but it’s just overall disheartening right now, my 2009 Sierra was a dream compared to this.

Last thing I’ll add, is with my insurance, it’s like a pay as you go type setup that you can top up kms as you need to cause I only drive about 4000-5000km a year. That being said, it requires an module plugged into the OBD port to track the kms, so it crossed my mind that thing has been the bane of my existence and maybe keeping the truck “awake”, but I started unplugging that while at work and sure enough the starting issues have remained.
 

BowDown

Spends too much time on here
Joined
Mar 20, 2020
Messages
3,339
Reaction score
3,442
Location
Frisco TX
 

Chystead

Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2023
Messages
10
Reaction score
4
Just removed the fuse box actually to check for corrosion on the bottom side where all the harnesses plug into cause was told they’ve been known to corrode under there apparently. Everything was clean though, and all the nuts on the end of the fuse box were all tight. Checked all body grounds I could see and easily find under the hood and they were all tight as well.

Anyone have a diagram of all body ground locations on the 5th gen Rams?
 

barrak

Active Member
Joined
May 6, 2023
Messages
162
Reaction score
140
Location
CO
Good idea checking for loose grounds. I assume you verified the serpentine belt is in good shape and properly tensioned? A battery can be undercharged and still measure 12+ volts.
 

kapinallinen2

5thGenRams Supporter
Site Supporter
Joined
Jan 16, 2019
Messages
1,636
Reaction score
1,171
Location
Southern Maryland.
A tight ground is not necessarily a good ground, it must also be clean.

In my case, had a thin film of oxides build up on the fender ground connection lugs.
Caused all kinds of havoc with modules not shutting down, parasitic draw that would drain the battery in little over 4 hours, to the point that the starter would only click.

Cleaned the connection really good, applied silver grease and re-torqued. Knock on wood...

Fender ground..jpg
 

Chystead

Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2023
Messages
10
Reaction score
4
Serpentine belt is in good shape and seems to be no issues there. Tomorrow I’ll take another look at the grounds and see if they need cleaning.

Do you guys think the rf hub could be causing these issues? I’ll look At maybe taking the rear seat out tomorrow to get a look at the hub and check for corrosion and water damage. If the Rf hub was on its way out, would it still allow the signal from the ignition to get to the start solenoid to allow it to click, and just not crank?
 

kapinallinen2

5thGenRams Supporter
Site Supporter
Joined
Jan 16, 2019
Messages
1,636
Reaction score
1,171
Location
Southern Maryland.
Back in the day, a click and not turning over meant either a battery with low charge, bad connection or a bad starter.
Miss those days.
If you get a click, then I would lean towards the hub being perhaps OK.

Will not hurt to pull the rear seats and have a look see at the hub.
The bolts holding down the seat brackets have blue thread locker on them, they are in for real.
 

Chystead

Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2023
Messages
10
Reaction score
4
Thought the same thing, but has a brand new starter as of Friday.
 

barrak

Active Member
Joined
May 6, 2023
Messages
162
Reaction score
140
Location
CO
Its the starter. Same thing happened in my 2020. Watch this video.


Sent from my SM-G781U1 using Tapatalk
Interesting bit of info within the discussion: the possible loose or dirty starter's electrical connector.

I had a very similar intermittent issue once with my Outback's electronic brakes. They would work intermittently and every now and then they would not let go and strand me until several engage/disengage cycles. Finally traced it to the connector next to the right rear wheel. Cleaning and zip-tying it solved that problem.
 

Chystead

Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2023
Messages
10
Reaction score
4
Well took the rear seat out, everything looks clean, and I don’t see any obvious signs of water despite my truck having the 2 cracks around the rear window.

Flipped the cover down on the RF hub, and board looks good. Found a plug back there that goes nowhere, anyone know what it’s for?

I was in the back of my truck for about an hour taking the seat out, and reinstalling it, and all while making sure nothing on the dash, usb hub, or radio was coming on while I was out there, which is wasn’t.

Back to square one now. Mechanic that put my new starter in feels it’s a loose or corroded connection/ground somewhere, or maybe compromised wiring. Feels with the starter clicking, it’s getting a signal to crank but isn’t getting enough juice despite the battery being good.

Good news is It started this morning first try, likely will be short lived though.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5818.jpeg
    IMG_5818.jpeg
    165.7 KB · Views: 23
  • IMG_5815.jpeg
    IMG_5815.jpeg
    156.6 KB · Views: 21
  • IMG_5813.jpeg
    IMG_5813.jpeg
    128.7 KB · Views: 22

kapinallinen2

5thGenRams Supporter
Site Supporter
Joined
Jan 16, 2019
Messages
1,636
Reaction score
1,171
Location
Southern Maryland.
Well took the rear seat out, everything looks clean, and I don’t see any obvious signs of water despite my truck having the 2 cracks around the rear window.

Flipped the cover down on the RF hub, and board looks good. Found a plug back there that goes nowhere, anyone know what it’s for?

I was in the back of my truck for about an hour taking the seat out, and reinstalling it, and all while making sure nothing on the dash, usb hub, or radio was coming on while I was out there, which is wasn’t.

Back to square one now. Mechanic that put my new starter in feels it’s a loose or corroded connection/ground somewhere, or maybe compromised wiring. Feels with the starter clicking, it’s getting a signal to crank but isn’t getting enough juice despite the battery being good.

Good news is It started this morning first try, likely will be short lived though.
That connector is for the e-torq battery AFAIK.
 

Chystead

Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2023
Messages
10
Reaction score
4
Well truck had to get towed tonight to the nearest Dodge dealer, so now we wait And hope they can pinpoint something.

Thing was acting perfect and starting every time for about a week around Christmas. Then yesterday had a no start once. This morning took a few attempts to get it to crank, and then trying to leave work wouldnt crank no matter how many times I tried. Tried to boost it, still nothing. Got one tiny partial crank at one point, then nothing but clicks before and after.

If I didn’t already change the starter I would swear that would be the culprit based on other posts ive seen of people with similar issues. Will let you know what the dealer says.
 

Combee1

Active Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2019
Messages
29
Reaction score
42
Hey Chystead, did you get this figured out? I have a 2019 with the same exact issue.

Mine started doing this about 4 months ago. I went through a similar troubleshooting process as you. Eventually, on mine, the RF Hub did completely fail, and locked me out of the truck. The dealer replaced the HUB, so I thought everything would be good. But it just started doing the no start (just a click) think again. The RF Hub seems to be working fine.

Please check back in with us if you got yours resolved. I'll be heading back to the house tomorrow to further troubleshoot, but I'm really out of ideas at this point.
 

kapinallinen2

5thGenRams Supporter
Site Supporter
Joined
Jan 16, 2019
Messages
1,636
Reaction score
1,171
Location
Southern Maryland.
Hey Chystead, did you get this figured out? I have a 2019 with the same exact issue.

Mine started doing this about 4 months ago. I went through a similar troubleshooting process as you. Eventually, on mine, the RF Hub did completely fail, and locked me out of the truck. The dealer replaced the HUB, so I thought everything would be good. But it just started doing the no start (just a click) think again. The RF Hub seems to be working fine.

Please check back in with us if you got yours resolved. I'll be heading back to the house tomorrow to further troubleshoot, but I'm really out of ideas at this point.
How old is your battery? Poor ground connection.
 

Combee1

Active Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2019
Messages
29
Reaction score
42
B
How old is your battery? Poor ground connection.
4 month old battery. It was the first thing I checked.

Since checked for parasitic draws and all the grounds I could find. Starter fuse and relay are good. Going after the connections on the starter tomorrow, per @raygun9 's post above. Seems there are quite a few people on his YouTube channel who have had the same issue. Most of them report it being resolved by going under the truck and cleaning up and tightening those electrical connections to the starter.

I'll report back tomorrow.
 

Chystead

Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2023
Messages
10
Reaction score
4
Mine is still in the shop, said they wouldn’t get to it till tomorrow, but I’ll definitely update the post when I get the news. I really feel it’s a loose/dirty connection at the starter, or the wiring is compromised.

The starter on mine was just replaced by a mechanic friend not at an actual shop. He said all the connections looked good, but we’ll see what the dealership says, I’m sure that’ll be the first place they check.

If one of the starter relays were gone, would I still be getting the click from the solenoid that I’m getting?
 

Chystead

Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2023
Messages
10
Reaction score
4
Combee, when your RFhub first started to give you issues, did it present itself as a no start and your remotes still worked, or did your remotes stop working immediately?
 

Combee1

Active Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2019
Messages
29
Reaction score
42
Combee, when your RFhub first started to give you issues, did it present itself as a no start and your remotes still worked, or did your remotes stop working immediately?
@Chystead .... I solved my problem today.

I am 100% sure these were two completely separate problems. My RF Hub failure was no doubt the result of the back window AND the 3rd stop light leaking water behind the rear seat and onto the the RF Hub. I think it was coincidental that the two problems appeared around the same time.

To make a long story short, today I went under the truck, located the starter, removed the heat shield, and carefully inspected the power and ground connections. The power supply to the solenoid (blade connector) and the ground (nearest nut and bolt) were fine. However, the power supply to the starting motor (farthest 13 mm nut and bolt) was obviously loose. When I reached my hand up there I could loosen the nut with my fingers. This was just as described by quite a few people on @raygun9 's YouTube channel. I highly suggest watching his video and then reading the comments. It lead me directly to this loose power connection on my starter. I cleaned up all 3 starter connections, snugged everything up, and the truck started right up after sitting all weekend in a no start/click only condition. I've since re-started at least 5 times without any issues.

My problems started a few months ago with intermittent no start/click conditions with the remote start. Intermittently, just like yours. Over the course of the next couple months I got a new battery, cleaned up grounds, checked relays and fuses, etc. to no avail. It just so happened that we had a TON of rain during this time in FL, and that is when my RF Hub failed. It was clear when it failed what the problem was. Neither of my FOBs worked to unlock the truck. The truck alarm would sound when I manually opened the door, and the truck stayed in anti-theft mode. I visibly had water behind the seats from the 3rd Brake light. This was after having the leak from the rear window a couple years back. Replacement of the RF Hub fixed this problem.

I got the truck back from the dealer a few weeks ago, and it was just last week that I had my first no start/click again since the RF Hub was replaced. I was able to get the truck started by repeatedly pushing the start button, but I was thinking I was going to have to take the truck back to the dealer. I went out to the truck Sat AM and it wouldn't start again. This time I coudn't get it to start at all, despite the battery load test being fine, and having complete power in the cab. That's when i started looking on here for answers and found your post, which led me to @raygun9 's YouTube video.

I woud highly recommend telling your dealer to check they electrical connections to the starter. That seems to be the culprit for a lot of people who have had these intermittent no start/click situations. Good luck. Let us know how it works out.
 

theblet

Legendary member
Joined
Feb 8, 2021
Messages
5,320
Reaction score
5,064
@Chystead .... I solved my problem today.

I am 100% sure these were two completely separate problems. My RF Hub failure was no doubt the result of the back window AND the 3rd stop light leaking water behind the rear seat and onto the the RF Hub. I think it was coincidental that the two problems appeared around the same time.

To make a long story short, today I went under the truck, located the starter, removed the heat shield, and carefully inspected the power and ground connections. The power supply to the solenoid (blade connector) and the ground (nearest nut and bolt) were fine. However, the power supply to the starting motor (farthest 13 mm nut and bolt) was obviously loose. When I reached my hand up there I could loosen the nut with my fingers. This was just as described by quite a few people on @raygun9 's YouTube channel. I highly suggest watching his video and then reading the comments. It lead me directly to this loose power connection on my starter. I cleaned up all 3 starter connections, snugged everything up, and the truck started right up after sitting all weekend in a no start/click only condition. I've since re-started at least 5 times without any issues.

My problems started a few months ago with intermittent no start/click conditions with the remote start. Intermittently, just like yours. Over the course of the next couple months I got a new battery, cleaned up grounds, checked relays and fuses, etc. to no avail. It just so happened that we had a TON of rain during this time in FL, and that is when my RF Hub failed. It was clear when it failed what the problem was. Neither of my FOBs worked to unlock the truck. The truck alarm would sound when I manually opened the door, and the truck stayed in anti-theft mode. I visibly had water behind the seats from the 3rd Brake light. This was after having the leak from the rear window a couple years back. Replacement of the RF Hub fixed this problem.

I got the truck back from the dealer a few weeks ago, and it was just last week that I had my first no start/click again since the RF Hub was replaced. I was able to get the truck started by repeatedly pushing the start button, but I was thinking I was going to have to take the truck back to the dealer. I went out to the truck Sat AM and it wouldn't start again. This time I coudn't get it to start at all, despite the battery load test being fine, and having complete power in the cab. That's when i started looking on here for answers and found your post, which led me to @raygun9 's YouTube video.

I woud highly recommend telling your dealer to check they electrical connections to the starter. That seems to be the culprit for a lot of people who have had these intermittent no start/click situations. Good luck. Let us know how it works out.
Good catch. Will definitely keep an eye For this. Thanks!
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top