IHC 3/5 Lowering Kit on 2020 RAM 1500 4x4

[TheFoodMan52]

Howdy hey!

I will be installing this kit here as soon as I get the parts in! I haven't seen much of anyone really speak up on these kits, and everything that I can see indicates they're solidly put together as long as you can follow instructions, and cut metal where the dotted lines go.

This will be the thread as I go, and where I will leave my thoughts.

My use case for this truck does not involve heavy towing, work use, or anything that would involve off-road use beyond what could be accomplished in an avenger or a base model charger on a slightly washed out road to a gun range. Most of the use is daily driving, and moving a few motorcycles around in the bed.


Plans for the truck are as follows:
IHC 3/5 drop kit.
Air Lift 1000HD helper bags to go inside of the springs (no bump stops after installation, so this is the only safety to keep off the frame when loading).
Keep catalytic converter, run different mufflers.
Run these factory tires down, then pick up a set of 22x9.5 +0 Rohana RFV2 Bronze 6 lug wheels, slap some 275-45-22 tires on.
Get an under seat subwoofer box for my 2 leftover kicker compvr 104 drivers.

 

[Rock Crawler]

I don’t know much about the IHC kits, but I do have their 4-link relocation cut kit. I will tell you it’s a lot of work. It will be a much easier job to just remove the rear axle for cleaner cuts, cleanup and repaint. I did mine on the truck (on a lift) and it is very tough to get into some of those tight spots. I have a 2/4 drop using parts from multiple suppliers and I’m running stock 22” wheels with stock 285/45/22 tires. I believe the stock wheel offset is about +19. I have some slight rubbing issues on the front wheel wells when going over long humps. If I’m correct, 0 offset will move your tires out to the edge of the fender. You may get some paint contact with a 3” drop, 22” wheels with a 0 offset. Something you might want to look into before buying. Now, I could be wrong, but it seems to me that it will be an issue. Also, once you cut off the bump stop cups, I recommend getting some low profile bump stops to keep the axle from hitting the frame. They can be easily installed on the flat plate where the bump stock cups are cut off.

 

[TheFoodMan52]

I don’t know much about the IHC kits, but I do have their 4-link relocation cut kit. I will tell you it’s a lot of work. It will be a much easier job to just remove the rear axle for cleaner cuts, cleanup and repaint. I did mine on the truck (on a lift) and it is very tough to get into some of those tight spots. I have a 2/4 drop using parts from multiple suppliers and I’m running stock 22” wheels with stock 285/45/22 tires. I believe the stock wheel offset is about +19. I have some slight rubbing issues on the front wheel wells when going over long humps. If I’m correct, 0 offset will move your tires out to the edge of the fender. You may get some paint contact with a 3” drop, 22” wheels with a 0 offset. Something you might want to look into before buying. Now, I could be wrong, but it seems to me that it will be an issue. Also, once you cut off the bump stop cups, I recommend getting some low profile bump stops to keep the axle from hitting the frame. They can be easily installed on the flat plate where the bump stock cups are cut off.

The shop I'm using will be pulling the axle down and out to get all the cuts and work finished up. I unfortunately don't have access to a lift anywhere here in the Tallahassee area, otherwise I would have been more than happy to get this done on my own.

https://www.americantrucks.com/rohana-wheels-ram1500-rfv2-matte-bronze-6-lug-wheel-22x95-22mm-offset-rfv222956139bz0.html

Truck is Delmonico red with the chrome bumpers front and rear, I think bronze would be the play unless you have some other suggestions, always open for opinions!

They do offer the wheels I've been eyeballing in +22 offset, I could probably run that and some small spacers to keep it relatively close to factory fitment, then just do the tire spec you mentioned. Good information knowing that a fender-flush fit would hit paint lowered 3 in the front! I'll be using their full kit which includes control arms for up front that keep the knuckles where they need to be and gets the drop from the lower control arm, and the rear has relocation brackets for the trailing arms and a bracket to raise the driveshaft center support bearing (after cutting the cross support for it) to keep the drive line straight and geometry corrected with the 5" drop.

-edit-

What bump stops do you recommend, by the way? If I can run some low profile ones, I am not against it!

 

[Rock Crawler]

Do some more research on the wheel and tire size for your drop. I’m not saying you will have issues for sure, just make sure you won’t before dropping the money.

I used these, but check with the shop doing your drop to see if they will work with what you’re doing.

Belltech Sport Trucks and Muscle Cars

Belltech Bumpstops are designed to complement any suspension kit. The microcell elastomer polymer foam bumpstops provide a progressive rated pad to reduce harsh bottoming in case of a severe overload. Acting as a secondary spring, Belltech's microcel

www.belltech.com

Here is a pic of where i put mine.



Here is the link to my build to see how I mounted them.

https://5thgenrams.com/community/threads/rock-crawler’s-build.42790/

 

[TheFoodMan52]

Woof, looks like you've been top-rope brawling with those leveling switches for the rear bags! Hopefully you get that sorted out for the long term, you've definitely got an unusual spec for your truck with the big cabin size and the extra long bed on 2WD.

When you say you have some rubbing issues with the front wheel well over long humps, is that contacting the liner or the fender, and what constitutes a long hump in your driving case?
I don't think I'll be going with a 285, I'll stick with a 275 tire so it may save me some width and prevent some issues.

 

[Rock Crawler]

Woof, looks like you've been top-rope brawling with those leveling switches for the rear bags! Hopefully you get that sorted out for the long term, you've definitely got an unusual spec for your truck with the big cabin size and the extra long bed on 2WD.

When you say you have some rubbing issues with the front wheel well over long humps, is that contacting the liner or the fender, and what constitutes a long hump in your driving case?
I don't think I'll be going with a 285, I'll stick with a 275 tire so it may save me some width and prevent some issues.

It’s funny that you mention the bed length as extra long. I have a 6’ 4” bed, which just a few years back was considered a “regular” bed and the 5’ 7” was considered the “short” bed. The 8’ bed was considered the “long” bed, but that is no longer available on the 1500’s, just the 2500’s. I’m not sure why the market changed. Probably because of garages getting smaller and parking spaces becoming more compact. I came from a Ram 2500 CTD Mega Cab with a 6’ 4” bed and that truck was longer than the one I have now.

The rubbing is occurring with the tire rubbing the wheel well liner, not the fender. When I say long humps, I mean like a slight rise and drop off on a roadway at higher speeds. These cause the front end to settle rather harshly due to the drop at higher speeds, like on the highway. My front wheel well liners actually have holes in them due to the rubbing.

 

[TittoPollito]

So I have the 4/7 (more like 5/8 after everything was said and done) drop on mine, its a pain in the backside dont do it (JMHO). I have Niche 24' wheels with a 305/45/24 Nitto tire it rubs like crazy on the plastic fender liner even using a front strut that is a million times better than the factory garbage. I have had to replace all the ball joints in the kit and the upper PS twice. Dont get me wrong I love the way the truck looks and it rides great but after the honeymoon of it being low ran its course...I would stick with the eibach kit or...

 

[TheFoodMan52]

I do wonder if the +19 offset keeping them inside, plus the 285 width of your tires (in regards to Rock Crawler) is some to blame for the fender liner rub, being a slightly taller and wider tire than a stock 20" set up.

For the other fellow (TittoPollito) you're running a significantly bigger tire than what I would be looking at, and running an even bigger tire than Crawler's set up, while being even LOWER than he is or I will be, so I am not shocked at all that you're hitting everywhere under there.

The screenshots attached are a visual comparison. The taller tire on the right vs the lower on the left is Titto's vs Crawler's tire, then the other one is the slightly shorter 275 tire I would be looking at compared to Crawler's.

The 275/45/22 is effectively identical in total width and height of the stock 275/55/20 tire for the bighorn.

 

[TittoPollito]

I do wonder if the +19 offset keeping them inside, plus the 285 width of your tires (in regards to Rock Crawler) is some to blame for the fender liner rub, being a slightly taller and wider tire than a stock 20" set up.

For the other fellow (TittoPollito) you're running a significantly bigger tire than what I would be looking at, and running an even bigger tire than Crawler's set up, while being even LOWER than he is or I will be, so I am not shocked at all that you're hitting everywhere under there.

The screenshots attached are a visual comparison. The taller tire on the right vs the lower on the left is Titto's vs Crawler's tire, then the other one is the slightly shorter 275 tire I would be looking at compared to Crawler's.

The 275/45/22 is effectively identical in total width and height of the stock 275/55/20 tire for the bighorn.

It rubbed almost as much with a factory setup on it. So I just decided to stay with these and did a little heat gun correction to the liners.

That calculator isnt 100% correct either at least for the 24's, at 36-38 Psi they measure 34.1" with a tape measure designed to measure tire stagger

 

[TheFoodMan52]

Gotcha, gotcha. I'll be keeping it at 3/5 lowering so I'm not as concerned with rubbing, also might ask the guys at IHC later today if they have experience with 0 offset hitting fender/paint versus closer to factory at +19 scrubbing liner.

Coming from my old '98 Z/28, I'm no stranger to beating out fenders and heating/warping plastics to fit rubber inside lol

 

[Rock Crawler]

I do wonder if the +19 offset keeping them inside, plus the 285 width of your tires (in regards to Rock Crawler) is some to blame for the fender liner rub, being a slightly taller and wider tire than a stock 20" set up.

I may have to move the clip up on the front struts to the 1.5” drop. ferraiolo1 has his set on 1.5” and he is running 22x9.5 wheels with 305 45R22 tires without any issues. I’m assuming others have done the 2/4 drop on 22’s without issues.

 

[CHeYeNNe71]

I may have to move the clip up on the front struts to the 1.5” drop. ferraiolo1 has his set on 1.5” and he is running 22x9.5 wheels with 305 45R22 tires without any issues. I’m assuming others have done the 2/4 drop on 22’s without issues.

Perfect time for Ridetech

 

[Rock Crawler]

Perfect time for Ridetech

Yeah, but $$$$$$$.

 

[CHeYeNNe71]

Yeah, but $$$$$$$.

You'll make more!!!

 

[Rock Crawler]

You'll make more!!!

I‘m trying to get a set of wheels. Good lord, wheels are expensive.

 

[Rock Crawler]

TheFoodMan52, when will your kit be in? Looking forward to seeing progress pics of your build.

 

[CHeYeNNe71]

I‘m trying to get a set of wheels. Good lord, wheels are expensive.

They def are!! I think I'm sticking with OEM 22's and 285/55 for now when I install the lift, and maybe next year new wheels. I'm going to PC them gloss black.

 

[TittoPollito]

Gotcha, gotcha. I'll be keeping it at 3/5 lowering so I'm not as concerned with rubbing, also might ask the guys at IHC later today if they have experience with 0 offset hitting fender/paint versus closer to factory at +19 scrubbing liner.

Coming from my old '98 Z/28, I'm no stranger to beating out fenders and heating/warping plastics to fit rubber inside lol

Yeah I had to do a lot roll rolling and pulling to fit a decent set of DR/Slicks on my G8

 

[TheFoodMan52]

TheFoodMan52, when will your kit be in? Looking forward to seeing progress pics of your build.

Kit was ordered this morning, been waiting on money from a couple sales to show up in the account before digging into everything.

Gonna be calling net audio today to see what all I need for wiring adapters and boxes. Fortunately, this truck is BASE MODEL AUDIO (thank-****) so I don't have any tomfoolery or low impedance drivers to worry about. Time for all new 4 ohm full range speakers, dash speakers and a separate amp.
Gonna find what 6x9's I want for the doors and some 3.5's for the dash, then I'll be wiring those to a separate amp, and running my Phoenix gold 1100w mono block for the two kicker comp subs.


-edit-
Spoke with Paul from their shop, he's going to get an invoice together for everything and we'll just order it all in once shot. Install should be mouth-breather easy with the base audio system.

Also was not aware it was so easy to modify the rear seat to be able to fold down flat! Raise the seat 1.5" with either washers or a milled spacer, and then when you lift the bottom of the bench up halfway, it'll just smoothly unlatch and fold forward.

 

[Rock Crawler]

Keep us updated on your progress.