I can't take the Dog?

[Bullcrappy]

Am I doing this right? Seems after passengers I am over weight for payload by 38lbs?
Or is a 150lbs already included for the Driver? Then I would only account for 50lbs?
Thanks for clarification

 

[kapinallinen2]

Yeah - I can't find it now but what I'm trying to say is someone posted a sheet that shows actual weights for the different options, i.e. piano roof adds x lbs, bucket seats add x lbs etc. Pretty interesting.

I think I seen that somewhere here in the past, a while ago.

 

[Willwork4truck]

You know it is an aerodynamic trailer and if he keeps his speed down and has his wdh set up correctly and his electric trailer brakes set up for the wet weight of the trailer he will likely be ok. I realize that this is not what some of you espouse but there are so many drivers who responsibly tow heavy, I can’t fault them anymore. (edit - I did for years...)

An option that few choose but more should is to take the smaller side state highways instead of the interstate. Usually a slower drive with no semi’s blowing you around as they pass and you see more of the country. There’s more places to stop and catch a break from the drive.
Plus your towing mileage/range is going to suck with the hemi so you might as well stop more often, get out and stretch/relieve yourself anyway.

If all the OP wants to do is get somewhere, try taking the trailer with no water, little propane and very little in the way of groceries etc. then shop when you get close to your camping destination. That will reduce your overall weights. It’s amazing what the weight can creep up to if you fully load up at home.

So there’s lots of ways to skin this cat other than taking the bath and buying a 2500 gasser. Don’t fall victim to the Cummins fever cause’ you may have just as low of payload on a 2500 w/diesel.

I used to be a “get a 1 ton” adherent but I can’t say that anymore. Our trucks have better/stronger steel in their frames, bigger brakes, a lot more built-in safety equipment, way better headlights and lots more power than my old 77‘ GMC 3500. Oh did I mention my stock 63 amp alternator?

Speaking of frame strength, give this article a read. I'll copy and paste a pertinent portion below:
From https://www.exploringoverland.com/overland-tech-travel/2015/8/26/thinking-outside-the-box
August 26, 2015 (Begin copied portion of article):
"For a short time after I got out of college, in the mid-1980s, I sold Toyotas for a living to pay off student debts (I was pretty sure I wouldn’t be doing so working as a freelance writer . . .). When talking to customers about Toyota trucks or the Land Cruiser, I always made sure to point out the fully boxed frame, and contrast it to the open C-channel frames then standard on American pickups. In those days you commonly saw Chevy and Ford trucks with the cab accent line offset from the bed line by an inch or more, due to frame flex that eventually settled in permanently. I’d take the customer on a demo drive, and put one front wheel up on a high curb to get a rear wheel off the ground, then show them the bed perfectly aligned with the cab. If they still had any doubts, I showed them a stack of articles I’d saved from the local newspaper, which covered the massive problems the Arizona Game and Fish Department had been having with their current issue half-ton Chevrolet trucks—cracked frames and broken motor mounts had reduced the serviceable numbers in the fleet by almost half.

At that time, the corporate line from Ford and Chevy was, “The frames are designed to flex (Italics mine) to maintain a comfortable ride and keep all tires on the ground as part of the suspension design.” Riiiiight.

The magnitude of the about face in the last 20 years would be amusing if it weren’t so annoying. Beginning in the late 90s and this century, American pickup manufacturers began producing (and heavily hyping) frames with higher and higher levels of torsional rigidity, culminating in the splendid fully boxed chassis now standard on all half-ton Ford, Chevrolet, and Ram pickups, and being introduced on 3/4 and 1-ton models as well. Even some crossmembers are boxed these days, in addition to being formed along with the side rails from high-strength and ultra-high-strength steels. Clearly the Big Three discovered that they could maintain a “comfortable ride” and still build a stronger, more durable truck."
(End of copied portion)

(Edited) Just because I had a 9200# gvw (and a 7000# wet weight) didn’t mean I could stop (front disc, rear drum brakes) or get out of my own way (net hp 165 @ 3800 rpm and net tq 260 ft lbs @ 2400 rpm). My round incandescent headlights threw a cone of light about 50' ahead and I had no trailer sway control, no abs, no lane keeping, no dynamic braking, no progressive springs, no stability control, no backup or forward cameras, no sonar detection of vehicles beside me... The list goes on and on. In short, we now have a totally differing truck than "the good old days".

Yeah today's truck costs are crazy high, (I almost bought a 79' K20 std cab longbed 4x, 350, 4 speed for $7.5K brand new in 1979) but still...

(All specs taken from https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/do...its/Chevrolet-Trucks/1978-Chevrolet-Truck.pdf which is as close as I could come to the 1977 truck.

 

[FishOn]

Bail the wife and kid, take the dog and extra beer. Problem solved.

 

[Willwork4truck]

Bail the wife and kid, take the dog and extra beer. Problem solved.

"Family reading/viewing discretion advised..."

 

[Bullcrappy]

I don’t understand why your payload is so low without any options . I have 1482lbs of payload and it’s just about loaded for my year.
Alpine stereo
Pano roof
12” screen
spray in bed liner
BUG
etc

Ya that is the problem, my truck is loaded ...every option except sunroom and power running boards.

 

[Willwork4truck]

I think I seen that somewhere here in the past, a while ago.

Look for it here, this thread, post #8, a 10 page pdf:

Towing help for new 1500 purchase​

• Thread starterbonacroots
• Start date Jan 20, 2021

Maybe a mod could sticky it with some towing info...

 

[Chanyote66]

Just a thought... airstreams were designed to tow by a family sedan in the 60's I'm sure those cars had more payload than your truck

you should do what you feel comfortable with, me personally, its a few lbs...
in the event there is a mishap, +/- 100lbs will probably not be a factor for insurance/liability, if you were way over... that's another story *not legal advice, just my opinion.


on a side note, is that measured TW or calculated? you can shift stuff in the trailer to make up 30-40lbs off the tongue, just don't go too light on it or its a fun ride.

 

[Finn5033]

I’m no towing expert either. But I did tow my buddies 32’ camper to a site a couple years ago that was about 4hrs round trip. His campers dry weight was about 8k lbs and the dry hitch weight was about 750lbs. I did that with my crew cab 6.4 bed big horn that had 1,715lbs of payload so I was within specs. And we used the WDH. That being said there is no way I would want to pull that thing across the country. To me it’s all about what you are comfortable with. If it was me and I had the means to do so, I’d get a bigger truck or a lighter camper.

 

[Willwork4truck]

Quite accurate reply there Finn5033.

Some folk have almost grown up towing trailers on ranches, horse farms, contractors etc. Others have been CDL licensed drivers and "chuckle" at towing issues raised on forums, they pull 53' trailers that weigh substantially more (when loaded) then the tow vehicle does. They have trailers with long and tall sides that are "sails" for the wind. My brother drove over 3 million accident free miles as a tractor trailer driver over 34 years, most of the time hauling doubles. You don't back doubles, so you have to learn how to maneuver...

It's very much based on your experience even more than your equipment. Put a newbie behind the wheel of a 1 ton dually that has an empty 15' landscape trailer and watch him jackknife it. Put a CDL driver behind the wheel of an F150 towing a 32' 9K travel trailer and likely he will do fine. Those are 2 ends of the spectrum, the rest of us fall somewhere in between.

Me, I'd prefer a heavier TV than not, just like I prefer slower towing speeds and less windy days. Others that I see blow by me on the highway seem to think otherwise. To each his/her own as long as they have the experience and gear to handle it.

We have "standards" and GCVWR/payload limits for reasons, it's best to follow them however that doesn't mean if you do you will have an accident/incident free trip or not, there's a lot of factors involved.

Ex: I recently watched a YT video about a 5ver wreck in Utah, the towing driver was being filmed by the car behind them on their dashcam. The towing rig appeared balanced and within proper limits, looked like a 3/4 or 1 ton SRW with a 30 something foot 5ver. All seemed fine until the driver encountered a slight curve (52 seconds in) to the right on an icy road. He turned the wheels but the truck/trailer went straight (into the ditch on the opposite side).
Nobody likely could have faulted his payload, GCVWR, rear axle weight etc. It was his speed, "too fast for the conditions".
See:

"Is This How Our RV Journey Ends?"

 

[Finn5033]

Some folk have almost grown up towing trailers on ranches, horse farms, contractors etc. Others have been CDL licensed drivers and "chuckle" at towing issues raised on forums, they pull 53' trailers that weigh substantially more (when loaded) then the tow vehicle does. They have trailers with long and tall sides that are "sails" for the wind. My brother drove over 3 million accident free miles as a tractor trailer driver over 34 years, most of the time hauling doubles. You don't back doubles, so you have to learn how to maneuver...

It's very much based on your experience even more than your equipment. Put a newbie behind the wheel of a 1 ton dually that has an empty 15' landscape trailer and watch him jackknife it. Put a CDL driver behind the wheel of an F150 towing a 32' 9K travel trailer and likely he will do fine. Those are 2 ends of the spectrum, the rest of us fall somewhere in between.

Me, I'd prefer a heavier TV than not, just like I prefer slower towing speeds and less windy days. Others that I see blow by me on the highway seem to think otherwise. To each his/her own as long as they have the experience and gear to handle it.

We have "standards" and GCVWR/payload limits for reasons, it's best to follow them however that doesn't mean if you do you will have an accident/incident free trip or not, there's a lot of factors involved.

Ex: I recently watched a YT video about a 5ver wreck in Utah, the towing driver was being filmed by the car behind them on their dashcam. The towing rig appeared balanced and within proper limits, looked like a 3/4 or 1 ton SRW with a 30 something foot 5ver. All seemed fine until the driver encountered a slight curve (52 seconds in) to the right on an icy road. He turned the wheels but the truck/trailer went straight (into the ditch on the opposite side).
Nobody likely could have faulted his payload, GCVWR, rear axle weight etc. It was his speed, "too fast for the conditions".
See:

"Is This How Our RV Journey Ends?"

Man that is scary

 

[Chanyote66]

as Finn5033 and Willwork4truck mentioned, experience is key,

Growing up in the mountains of Colorado I learned to respect weather, road conditions, hairpins, and grades. I started with trailers on a farm at 9 years old towing 1 ton trailers with a 4 wheeler to get hay to cattle up in high pastures. Then at 16 moving into larger round bail goosenecks averaging 18000lbs behind a 2001 ram 24v 2500 through the passes. Just for numbers... the TW was ~4000lbs which is over spec by 1800lbs on the truck used. and the tow was over by almost 6000lbs. did this for years with no problems besides a trailer blowout twice. I feel completely comfortable with my 1500 and a 9800lb 5T trailer and tractor. but it comes with experience, spending time to set trailer brakes correct, actually knowing your vehicle maintenance, and tow maintenance, taking your time and driving at, or below the speed limit (strange... I know)

As a rough guide to those that may not be as used to towing, ill just say 80%. stay under 80% TW and 80% trailer weight. Take an "RV driving course" if you can find one near by.

I hate to use misfortunes of others for making a point, but in that weather, and his payload, I would have went much slower, black ice and hard pack can quickly change especially in a "sudden weather change" Our rule when on road was "40 and below we go slow" even if we get people behind us, next chance to pull over we let impatient people pass. another note if anyone finds themselves in that same situation, DONT BRAKE!!! even your "ABS" wont help you, if your rotational speed of your tires does not match the ice or pack, you have no directional control. trailer brakes have an override for a reason, use them and don't touch the trucks brakes, let the truck steer.

even though I don't currently need it, I am taking CDL classes mostly for the experience and better understanding of things that I may not be aware of.

Lastly... If he only had a ram.... joking aside, they are part of our RV community, just never saw the footage.

 

[Willwork4truck]

x2 above, not just because you echo my sentiments but you have had the experience and understand the Western US driving conditions. There is no replacement for either displacement or experience!

 

[Willwork4truck]

Man that is scary

Definately. He could have headon’ed that semi just a few seconds later... you never know. It’s probably excessive speed for the conditions way more than payload, gcvwr issues, especially in winter weather.

Not saying the other things don’t matter, like an unloaded front end/poor steering tire contact due to improper tongue weight or lack of a wdh, or even swaying, just that the speeds are critical.

 

[RiverRocket]

I have a 2021 Limited with all the options. I was shocked when I read the sticker and my payload is 926lbs. The Durango RT AWD this truck replaced had a payload of nearly 400lbs more. Try that on for size.....

So much truth to the previous statement of towing light trailers with these trucks because of the payload. I'm lucky I only tow a 21' bass boat that I can easily lift the tongue on. That plus my family and gear puts me right at the limit. I plan to put extra gear in the boat over the axle just to help out if needed.

 

[Willwork4truck]

I have a 2021 Limited with all the options. I was shocked when I read the sticker and my payload is 926lbs. Try that on for size.....

So much truth to the previous statement of towing light trailers with these trucks because of the payload. I'm lucky I only tow a 21' bass boat that I can easily lift the tongue on. That plus my family and gear puts me right at the limit. I plan to put extra gear in the boat over the axle just to help out if needed.

I don't think I have ever seen that low of a number on a 5th gen...are there 2 “kitchen sinks” somewhere in your Ltd?
However it sounds like you are fine with your boat.

 

[nc_beagle]

Ya mine is not to fancy... 2019 Rebel 5.7 - 3.92 w/ 8" screen, heated seats and Ram boxes that is about it... tow package too

When I was trying to figure out the weight of options, someone told me that the Ram Boxes are 130#. I've never looked closely at them and assumed they were just plastic forms, but I have noticed when checking payload for various VINs that those with the Ram Box have a noticeably lower payload.

I really wish the Build & Price was Build & Price & Weigh

 

[Willwork4truck]

When I was trying to figure out the weight of options, someone told me that the Ram Boxes are 130#. I've never looked closely at them and assumed they were just plastic forms, but I have noticed when checking payload for various VINs that those with the Ram Box have a noticeably lower payload.

I really wish the Build & Price was Build & Price & Weigh

Look at post #26 above on this thread. That's where you can find the weights. 130#? Seriously?

 

[RiverRocket]

I don't think I have ever seen that low of a number on a 5th gen...are there 2 “kitchen sinks” somewhere in your Ltd?
However it sounds like you are fine with your boat.

Right... I know. I looked all over. No sinks..

I looked at the option list weights. Ram box is 120lb hit, 33g tank is a 44lb hit, side steps 60lbs, air suspension 35lbs, sunroof 35lbd, tires at least 30lbs, bed cover 43lbs. It all adds up. hell bed liner is 30lbs........

 

[Willwork4truck]

Right... I know. I looked all over. No sinks..

I looked at the option list weights. Ram box is 120lb hit, 33g tank is a 44lb hit, side steps 60lbs, air suspension 35lbs, sunroof 35lbd, tires at least 30lbs, bed cover 43lbs. It all adds up. hell bed liner is 30lbs........

Hard to see how ramboxes are 3x heavier than the pano sunroof! Id take your 33 gallon tank to help “lighten your load”...

 

[blakei]

I have a 2021 Limited with all the options. I was shocked when I read the sticker and my payload is 926lbs. The Durango RT AWD this truck replaced had a payload of nearly 400lbs more. Try that on for size.....

So much truth to the previous statement of towing light trailers with these trucks because of the payload. I'm lucky I only tow a 21' bass boat that I can easily lift the tongue on. That plus my family and gear puts me right at the limit. I plan to put extra gear in the boat over the axle just to help out if needed.

My sister had a Honda Pilot with 1300 lbs payload... my brother-in-law has an F150 Platinum with 900 lbs payload... he pulled a 26’ TT and although I’m sure was overloaded on paper, there’s no way I’d try that with a Pilot. A truck just seems like it’s going to have more capability.


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