As said below you are hearing the re-circulation door open which allows more volume into the system and lets the fan run at full speed. Which leaves me to wonder if there is an inadequate amount of air coming into the airbox vs the size of the cabin with the recirc door is closed. HMMMMM?Actually, I don't understand how that works either. 7 is the maximum but it appears there might be an "8" setting because if you switch to auto you can hear the fan gear up another level. But I always just use it on 7 and recirc and max AC and my air ends up too cold to where it has to be turned down.
If anyone actually does tear the system apart and make videos, hell I'll go with the OP and toss in my couple bucks ; I'm always interested in the furthering of science. I don't think we're going to learn anything but you never know. You'd have to have the covers and stuff open and still be able to operate the system to see what's going on - so the scope idea might really be the best one.
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HVAC Teardown Bounty
- Thread starter Edwards
- Start date
Mine doesn't seem to cool any differently with or without re-circulate.
The noise of the fan just gets on my nerves as my brain thinks it should be getting cooler when it doesn't. With cabin temp high 80's or more I tried setting the temp to 77 to see if it can pull cooler air at a slower pace rather than overworking it. I haven't checked the temperature at the vents but all it seems to do is change the fan speed and not the temperature coming out of the vents. Go much warmer than that and it cuts the cooling and just blows air.
I haven't done the valve/clamping as whilst we are having a bit of a heat wave in high 80's conversely I went out in the evening a couple of days ago and wanted the heating on. I haven't tried that much yet but it didn't seem to heat up quickly either. Rather than a manual valve I was wondering if I can put in a motorised one to I can open and close from a switch in the dashboard, I haven't searched extensively but the ones I've found don't have the temperature range at the moment though.
I'll get a new battery for my thermometer and take a few measurements as aware this is speculative at the moment.
I'm thinking of taking mine to an air con man I've used before along with info provided on here and see if he has any suggestions.
Not sure what we'd gain but I'd be willing to donate a few $s for extra info.
jimk hunt
Well-Known Member
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and the clamp or valve hack brings temps within a degree or two....so this is not it
Techguy2000
Active Member
Are you guys expecting to go through the vents with the scope or something like look around from the access area by the cabin filter?
Fyi The instructions to install the oem trailer break controller describe how the radio area can be removed/popped out which leaves the duct holes open and exposed.
I might be able to scope it that way sometime later this week if that's the right path to take?
Fyi The instructions to install the oem trailer break controller describe how the radio area can be removed/popped out which leaves the duct holes open and exposed.
I might be able to scope it that way sometime later this week if that's the right path to take?
Techguy2000
Active Member
I figured what the heck and took out the two top screws, yanked out the radio area and attempted to scope the vent with the truck on but I couldn't quite get the scope down the 90 degree downward bend which gets fairly narrow as well as navigate the (now hanging by cables) radio/AC controls. Having two folks would be really helpful.
For what it's worth the attached is what you get behind the radio. Are there any diagrams from tech authority that would help show where the blend door(s) are?
For what it's worth the attached is what you get behind the radio. Are there any diagrams from tech authority that would help show where the blend door(s) are?
Attachments
I’ve got the same issue of cold air leaking from window defrost causing condensation to form on my windshield. Dealer says it’s operating normal, which I vehemently disagree with, and they cannot do anything to resolve. I posted a separate thread in much more detail here last week and had man people respond with the same issue.
Anyone have any good ideas to put some pressure on FCA? I was thinking of filing a complaint with the FTC. Maybe that could start getting some attention, especially if we can all come together and do it in numbers.
Curious to know if the new 2020 models rolling out have fixed these issues or if they still persist.
Anyone have any good ideas to put some pressure on FCA? I was thinking of filing a complaint with the FTC. Maybe that could start getting some attention, especially if we can all come together and do it in numbers.
Curious to know if the new 2020 models rolling out have fixed these issues or if they still persist.
KSOTI
Active Member
I have been cycling between defrost and the front vents repeatedly with the fan on high. My Hope Is that the seal on the door will wear in a little bit. Sounds far-fetched but I think it's helping. It's just a tiny bit of air that is squeaking past the seal. But it's enough to fog the window. seems to be getting better. I will keep cycling an update if breaking the seal in works
19TXLimited
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Go tell FCA to talk with GM...GM has the same issue and has already issued a "fix" for the problem. I will have to track down the fix, but almost all Camaros have this issue and it can end up fogging nearly half the windshield. I do know it required GM to remove the windshield on the Camaro and replace, but not sure that would be necessary with the Ram as it is much larger...Camaro did not have much space up by the windshield.
We should have auctioned something off with the donation - like some of those "Stay Cool" towels you can buy at Lowe's so the winner doesn't sweat to death while yanking their system apart in the summer
Billet1500 4x4
Ram Guru
it's going to take a lot more than a few hundred bucks to entice someone to pull the HVAC box out and take it apart. Very few people are going to have the tools required to do it. In order to split the case the entire HVAC box has to be removed from the cab which means removing the whole dash. Then one will need a r1234yf recovery machine to evacuate the system in order to remove the H block to disconnect the liquid and suction lines that pass through the firewall. Easily a full weekend for a seasoned mechanic with the proper tools.
Completely agree. I was proposing this for someone who had theirs out or had access to a totaled vehicle, or even a dealer mechanic with access to one.
KSOTI
Active Member
Hold my beer and watch this......
Billet1500 4x4
Ram Guru
Ideally you're looking for the owner of an automotive AC shop that owns a new Ram with crappy AC. I'd like to tear mine apart, I'm a mechanical engineer by profession and like taking things apart even when they're working just fine, I just don't have the tools I know I would need to do it, I like finding reasons to buy new tools but a recovery machine is just a little too spendy, and the ones we have where I work are for industrial applications and won't do automotive r1234yf.
Looks like we only came to $30. Maybe if some enterprising soul was going to do it anyway, they'd hit us up for beer money. Otherwise this turned out to be a waste of time.
Yeah, lots of people think things are a good idea right up to the point where it's time to pay for it
