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How'd I do on my order?

jtwolf22

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Hey guys,

I've been hemming and hawing at getting a truck for over a year. Finally pulled the trigger yesterday. Now I've got that little voice in the back of my head asking if I got a good deal or not.

One thing that kind of threw a red flag was I had my sales guy build out the same truck in March and it was almost $1,000 less. I didn't pull the trigger right away and we ended up doing the same order 7 days later in April.
He claimed there was nothing he could do and the parts simply cost more once we redid the build in April. This innately sounds like BS, however I am in sales as well and the same thing happens in the industry I work in when customers wait (Prices go up as the cost of materials and production goes up) The base cost of the MSRP and the etorque ($500 instead of $200) are what drove the price up.

The price is before any rebates, and in addition to my state tax. Apparently I can't lock in any promotions now, and have to go with whatever the rebates are at the time the truck comes in.


Any advice or criticism would be welcome.

Thanks guys,
 

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ElkoNV

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Looks solid. I went with Dennis Dillon in ID, MSRP on mine $74K I am paying $66K, which would be $2K less but they extended the 0% financing so I am taking that instead. Congratulations!
 

Snofire

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I guess I'm confused on what you are going to be "Paying" for this truck. There are 4 different numbers I could guess.
 

SCasey89

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Yeah, what exactly are you paying? And you can most-definitely lock in the current rebates.

There’s info in the “Price negotiated from MSRP” thread. And member Silent Bob also has many threads on various subjects relating to ordering a truck.

 
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User_3336

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that's just an invoice with cost listed, Can't tell if "your" deal is good or not, you never stated it in the original message.
 

mikeru82

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Did you sign a contract?

If so, why torture yourself? It is what it is and kicking yourself won't change anything.
Exactly my thinking. The time to ask is before you sign, not after. All that really matters is whether or not you're happy with the deal. And since you signed it, I can only assume that you were happy with it. At least at the time you signed.
 

Fatherof3

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Hey guys,

I've been hemming and hawing at getting a truck for over a year. Finally pulled the trigger yesterday. Now I've got that little voice in the back of my head asking if I got a good deal or not.

One thing that kind of threw a red flag was I had my sales guy build out the same truck in March and it was almost $1,000 less. I didn't pull the trigger right away and we ended up doing the same order 7 days later in April.
He claimed there was nothing he could do and the parts simply cost more once we redid the build in April. This innately sounds like BS, however I am in sales as well and the same thing happens in the industry I work in when customers wait (Prices go up as the cost of materials and production goes up) The base cost of the MSRP and the etorque ($500 instead of $200) are what drove the price up.

The price is before any rebates, and in addition to my state tax. Apparently I can't lock in any promotions now, and have to go with whatever the rebates are at the time the truck comes in.


Any advice or criticism would be welcome.

Thanks guys,
Looks pretty good . $6,000 off seems to be what they’re offering here as well .
 

Silent Bob

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I've been hemming and hawing at getting a truck for over a year. Finally pulled the trigger yesterday. Now I've got that little voice in the back of my head asking if I got a good deal or not.

A very good price would be EP or less before rebates and incentives. The EP price is listed on the invoice you provided.
Full price would be FFP before rebates and incentives.
 
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User_3336

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A very good price would be EP or less before rebates and incentives. The EP price is listed on the invoice you provided.
Full price would be FFP before rebates and incentives.
Don't count on getting EP before rebates. that is EMPLOYEE pricing.

FFP is like supplier or "friends and family" pricing.

Dealer might give a cut of that $2121 HOLDBACK.
 

Finn5033

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Your sales person is lying to you. when you order a truck the dealer will lock in the current rebates. If the rebates are better when the truck arrives you get those. If they are worse than you get what you locked in at ordering. I’ve ordered 2 new Rams in the past from different dealers and this is how it was done both times.
 

mikeru82

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Your sales person is lying to you. when you order a truck the dealer will lock in the current rebates. If the rebates are better when the truck arrives you get those. If they are worse than you get what you locked in at ordering. I’ve ordered 2 new Rams in the past from different dealers and this is how it was done both times.
This is what my dealership told me as well. I didn't end up ordering and bought off the lot. But it's good to know how it works here. I was told that this policy can vary from state to state, but I have no idea if that's true or not.
 

Silent Bob

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Don't count on getting EP before rebates. that is EMPLOYEE pricing.

FFP is like supplier or "friends and family" pricing.

Dealer might give a cut of that $2121 HOLDBACK.
EP is 5% below invoice plus $200 before rebates and incentives. Those of us getting very good deals are in the 5% to 7% range without the EP program.
FFP is 1% below invoice plus $75 before rebates and incentives. Anyone can get this price. Details are in the post listed in my signature.
 

Silent Bob

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This is what my dealership told me as well. I didn't end up ordering and bought off the lot. But it's good to know how it works here. I was told that this policy can vary from state to state, but I have no idea if that's true or not.

The policy does not vary from state to state. The dealership must fill out the paperwork and some are just lazy. No one likes extra work but some are willing to do it to make a sale. Check out this thread for the details.

 

mikeru82

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The policy does not vary from state to state. The dealership must fill out the paperwork and some are just lazy. No one likes extra work but some are willing to do it to make a sale. Check out this thread for the details.

Then I'm glad to know that my dealership isn't one of the lazy ones LOL.
 

Royalist_Ram

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So for one, you never told us the price in which you are, or think you are, paying. The Invoice there (Final Wholesale Price), most likely isn't the exact amount you're paying. So, all that being said, I can't say if it's a good deal.

Secondly, If the price is up $1k more compared to March, that doesn't mean they shouldn't be able to come down in price regardless. Also, most dealers don't lock in a final price, I'm sure you didn't sign anything other than maybe a deposit, if at all, and a form confirming your order itself. You'll normally deal when the vehicle comes in, and use those available rebates and prices, not the ones when you place the order, even you said it at the end. You don't negotiate on FWP or MSRP's.
 

Silent Bob

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Also, most dealers don't lock in a final price, I'm sure you didn't sign anything other than maybe a deposit, if at all, and a form confirming your order itself. You'll normally deal when the vehicle comes in, and use those available rebates and prices, not the ones when you place the order, even you said it at the end. You don't negotiate on FWP or MSRP's.

You never factory order a vehicle without a final negotiated price. It may not include incentives/rebates if your dealer is to lazy to lock them in. The negotiation is for the discount the dealer is offering you.

A very good price would be EP or less before rebates and incentives. The EP price is listed on the invoice you provided.
Full price is basically FFP before rebates and incentives.

EP is 5% below invoice plus $200 before rebates and incentives. Those of us getting very good deals are in the 5% to 7% range without the EP program.
FFP is 1% below invoice plus $75 before rebates and incentives. Anyone can get this price with no negotiating. Details are in the post listed in my signature.
 

Royalist_Ram

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You never factory order a vehicle without a final negotiated price. It may not include incentives/rebates if your dealer is to lazy to lock them in. The negotiation is for the discount the dealer is offering you.

A very good price would be EP or less before rebates and incentives. The EP price is listed on the invoice you provided.
Full price is basically FFP before rebates and incentives.

EP is 5% below invoice plus $200 before rebates and incentives. Those of us getting very good deals are in the 5% to 7% range without the EP program.
FFP is 1% below invoice plus $75 before rebates and incentives. Anyone can get this price with no negotiating. Details are in the post listed in my signature.
I did lol, I'm under no obligation to take delivery of the vehicle either. Plus I didn't even put down a security deposit like so many of you guys do. Ram incentives told me I could use the incentives either at the time of order or when I got the vehicle, dependent on if I wanted to use the $1,500 bonus cash pop up or not.
 

jtwolf22

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Hi,

Thanks so much for all the replies. I am paying the $66,360 before rebates, plus state tax, and +500 in dealer fees.
 

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