how often is everyone changing oil

[theblet]

What does lube guard do anyway?

 

[HSKR R/T]

What does lube guard do anyway?

Negativity effects the chemistry of the oil, and lightens the wallet.

 

[silver billet]

What does lube guard do anyway?

It spikes the oil with "moly", which is a friction modifier, typically adding about 100 ppm of moly. If your oil doesn't contain moly (or much of it, like PUP), you can spike it with LG, but a proper high quality oil should contain high-ish amounts in a perfectly balanced ratio (which is one reason I prefer HPL these days).

Many high qualify formula use moly. Redline, HPL has gobs of it, typically in the range of 650 to 800. Long suspected to aid in quieting the hemi/tick.

Here is a screenshot to the bitog database, the highlighted column shows 30 grade oils with moly where the rows are sorted in decreasing amounts (so first row has highest amount of moly)

What is Moly Oil and Why Do You Need It?

What is Moly oil? Find out more at stores.buy1oils.com. Shop for premium Schaeffer's Moly Oil products online at great prices.

stores.buy1oils.com

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/what-is-effect-of-moly-in-engine-oil.179639/

 

[azzx]

I may be wrong, but I think selling snake oil was outlawed a while back!!
If you have any modern car/truck/horse carriage/internal combustion engine none of this crap adds any value if you follow common sense service intervals (to me. 4-5000 intervals with full synthetic oil).
The whole vehicular universe is full of BS & scientifically unfounded claims that are based on 1900 - 1990s or so manufactured crappy inefficient engines.
These types of additives worked when we had engines with 7-8.5 compression ratios with enough slop in tolerances that could fit an elephant in it. I have owned them all!!!

 

[azzx]

BTW, I change the oil/filter on my:
Sports bikes: 2000+/- miles
Dirt bikes: 500 +/- miles -- don't own any DB now
SXS: 1000+/- miles
Regular pedestrian cars: 4000+/- miles
Ram: (2019 Hemi at 4500K, had my first oil change on 25 @ 5300K)
All with fully synthetic oil based on manufacturer requirements.
Zero additives since 2000 on 60+ motorcycles, 30 + cars/trucks. I spent **** load of money on various additives on my cars with 302, 305, 350, 402, 454, etc. etc. etc. before then.

 

[silver billet]

I may be wrong, but I think selling snake oil was outlawed a while back!!
If you have any modern car/truck/horse carriage/internal combustion engine none of this crap adds any value if you follow common sense service intervals (to me. 4-5000 intervals with full synthetic oil).
The whole vehicular universe is full of BS & scientifically unfounded claims that are based on 1900 - 1990s or so manufactured crappy inefficient engines.
These types of additives worked when we had engines with 7-8.5 compression ratios with enough slop in tolerances that could fit an elephant in it. I have owned them all!!!

Considering I just posted a screenshot showing many (cheap to expensive) oils containing lots of moly, safe to say moly is an important ingredient (though Boron can be used in place of Moly) and this has nothing to do with 1990s engines.

HPL is also a long interval oil. You don't usually buy it to run 5000 miles, you can easily run it 10k to 20k miles with the highest I've seen reaching about 25k, all backed by lab reports of course.

 

[HSKR R/T]

Considering I just posted a screenshot showing many (cheap to expensive) oils containing lots of moly, safe to say moly is an important ingredient (though Boron can be used in place of Moly) and this has nothing to do with 1990s engines.

HPL is also a long interval oil. You don't usually buy it to run 5000 miles, you can easily run it 10k to 20k miles with the highest I've seen reaching about 25k, all backed by lab reports of course.

The difference is, those oils are designed and blended for the proper distribution of the moly to maintain the proper viscosity. When you dump in additives, it changes the composition of the oil from how it was designed to work and could actually increase wear

 

[HSKR R/T]

 

[RLee276]

Adding the lube guard additive is probably worse for your engine than anything else you are doing

Surprised you say that. This forum is the sole reason I use it.
I may reconsider.
What’s your reasoning ?

 

[HSKR R/T]

Surprised you say that. This forum is the sole reason I use it.
I may reconsider.
What’s your reasoning ?

See video I posted.

 

[Snekpete]

I may be wrong, but I think selling snake oil was outlawed a while back!!
If you have any modern car/truck/horse carriage/internal combustion engine none of this crap adds any value if you follow common sense service intervals (to me. 4-5000 intervals with full synthetic oil).
The whole vehicular universe is full of BS & scientifically unfounded claims that are based on 1900 - 1990s or so manufactured crappy inefficient engines.
These types of additives worked when we had engines with 7-8.5 compression ratios with enough slop in tolerances that could fit an elephant in it. I have owned them all!!!

View attachment 192523

The lubricating oils have changed dramatically, the bearing and ring tolerances have not changed in 40 years. The lighter weight oil is used to reduce parasitic drag. Period.

 

[HSKR R/T]

The lubricating oils have changed dramatically, the bearing and ring tolerances have not changed in 40 years. The lighter weight oil is used to reduce parasitic drag. Period.

Bearing tolerances have changed on factory engines.

And modern oils li ricate better, even lighter weight oilsz than the oils used 40 years ago. Toyota is even running 0w-8 oil from the factory in some of their vehicles, and they don't have as strict of emissions laws in Japan.

 

[Essbaum]

This is a good question! I use Penzoil Platinum synthetic and change it way to often at 5000 miles with about 45% life remaining shown on the dash gage. But I get an email from Carfax saying my regular maintenance record says it's overdue. I suppose it will show up when someone looks at a Carfax report that my truck wasn't maintained properly!View attachment 127692

Carfax will estimate mileage based on standard averages. I get those from time to time about a car that was totaled years ago.

 

[killerformula]

I dump the oil at 50% but don’t change the filter. It’s a little lazy but saves me having to soak the rack and it’s quick. Then I let the dealer do it at 5% or so because I need it for warranty.

 

[SD Rebel]

I dump the oil at 50% but don’t change the filter. It’s a little lazy but saves me having to soak the rack and it’s quick. Then I let the dealer do it at 5% or so because I need it for warranty.

I use 2x half gallon Ziploc bag method, I have never spilled a drop, it's honestly one of my easiest oil filter changes with that method.

Give it a try next time, just unscrew the filter half turn, slip on the first Ziploc bag, keep unscrewing until it starts leaking into the bag, then after it stops dripping (about 20 secs), slip off that bag and slip on the 2nd bag, finish unscrewing until the filter comes off, hold the bag under the housing for a few seconds as oil comes out of the housing, and you're done.

I keep a $2 Walmart small plastic pan to the right of me to deposit the oily bags when I'm done so it's nice and clean.