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how bad does the 3.92 gearing affect MPG?

BowDown

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Then whats the reason for the mpg difference between the two on the highway?
 

iLikeTurtles

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Then whats the reason for the mpg difference between the two on the highway?
Active or inactive air dams (aero), tires (friction/drivetrain), driving profile (direct consumption lost), weather conditions (resistance or assistance) and gearing. The only constant is gearing. I think it may make a 1-2 mpg difference at 70-75mph.

At 90mph maybe 3-4mpg?

I agree gearing makes a difference just dont think its 20%
 

BowDown

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Active or inactive air dams (aero), tires (friction/drivetrain), driving profile (direct consumption lost), weather conditions (resistance or assistance) and gearing. The only constant is gearing. I think it may make a 1-2 mpg difference at 70-75mph.

At 90mph maybe 3-4mpg?

I agree gearing makes a difference just dont think its 20%

Having had a 3.92 truck, I know its more than 1-2 mpg @70
 

z0n3

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I am pretty happy with my current 3.21 and 33 gallon tank that I chose to order another truck with the same setup. Don't tow often enough or heavy enough for it to make a difference to me.
 

mr.fusion

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I have a stock bighorn 4wd 3.92 5.7et....no ORP, barely broke in. Don't have a big sample to determine mpg city/hwy but ballpark would be 20 average. On easy hwy driving (under 70mph) I often see 20-23mpg on the computer and it's not too far off when checking at the pump. Truck only had 1500 miles on it before a recent roadtrip.

Took it on a road trip through Nebraska and all over Colorado a couple weeks ago. Driving 75+ into a 20-25mph headwind I got about 17. For 3 days driving all over Colorado looking at trees etc... I got 22 for the entire weekend. Driving back home 75+ mph without much wind, it was about 19-20 and I think for the whole 2500 mile trip it was right at 20. Driving habit plays a big factor. This was a sight-seeing vacation so that helped me drive a little more chill.

A lot of people IMO don't realize how aggressive they drive compared to others who drive "easy". Your average speed plays a big factor too, but it's also how you get there. Some people work the throttle and brake like the highway is race track. Some days that's me if I'm having fun, but in that case I know I'm killing my mpg.

I'm about to do 34.5 tires and a level kit.... so.... it was nice while it lasted. But I can't wait to see what it will do at 60-65mph cause I think it may not be that bad since the larger tire will knock the rpms down. I bet there is a sweet spot where it does "ok"
 

NorthernArea51

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I have a stock bighorn 4wd 3.92 5.7et....no ORP, barely broke in. Don't have a big sample to determine mpg city/hwy but ballpark would be 20 average. On easy hwy driving (under 70mph) I often see 20-23mpg on the computer and it's not too far off when checking at the pump. Truck only had 1500 miles on it before a recent roadtrip.

Took it on a road trip through Nebraska and all over Colorado a couple weeks ago. Driving 75+ into a 20-25mph headwind I got about 17. For 3 days driving all over Colorado looking at trees etc... I got 22 for the entire weekend. Driving back home 75+ mph without much wind, it was about 19-20 and I think for the whole 2500 mile trip it was right at 20. Driving habit plays a big factor. This was a sight-seeing vacation so that helped me drive a little more chill.

A lot of people IMO don't realize how aggressive they drive compared to others who drive "easy". Your average speed plays a big factor too, but it's also how you get there. Some people work the throttle and brake like the highway is race track. Some days that's me if I'm having fun, but in that case I know I'm killing my mpg.

I'm about to do 34.5 tires and a level kit.... so.... it was nice while it lasted. But I can't wait to see what it will do at 60-65mph cause I think it may not be that bad since the larger tire will knock the rpms down. I bet there is a sweet spot where it does "ok"

I did the bigger tires (only 33’s) and the level...the level will be felt the most. The change in airflow makes an enormous difference when it comes to the amount of drag the level creates.


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mr.fusion

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I did the bigger tires (only 33’s) and the level...the level will be felt the most. The change in airflow makes an enormous difference when it comes to the amount of drag the level creates.


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I can believe that. I have wheels ordered... but still have to get a front coilover and tires. My goal is to lift the front as little as possible to fit the tires. I hope a simple 2-2.5" level will be enough.
 

NorthernArea51

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I can believe that. I have wheels ordered... but still have to get a front coilover and tires. My goal is to lift the front as little as possible to fit the tires. I hope a simple 2-2.5" level will be enough.

Setting 5 on the 5100’s is only 1.7” and the difference was extremely noticeable.

But what’s your worry? Fitting 33’s? Because those will fit without a level

I leveled solely for the look, lol so my complaint is baseless


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mr.fusion

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Planning to get 285/75-18 which are actually a shade taller (34.8) than most "35" tires.
I'm also using a coilover to level the front. Just got the 5100s shipped this week. I've seen some trucks here at #5 that look nose high so I'm thinking about doing 3-4. If it needs more lift for the tires, then I think #5 and ORP or Icon rear springs. Mine is non-ORP
 

NorthernArea51

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Planning to get 285/75-18 which are actually a shade taller (34.8) than most "35" tires.
I'm also using a coilover to level the front. Just got the 5100s shipped this week. I've seen some trucks here at #5 that look nose high so I'm thinking about doing 3-4. If it needs more lift for the tires, then I think #5 and ORP or Icon rear springs. Mine is non-ORP

Do you know how much height you’ll gain from the coil over?

I’ve seen a bunch of people post about getting underneath and looking at their ORP springs and the verifying the part number and...voila...not the right springs lol. Makes me wonder if alot of the discrepancies on leveling stem from this issue


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Scram1500

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The last thing on my mind when I bought a 2.5 ton vehicle with 400 hp was miles per gallon
 

Scram1500

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400 hp and a great sound from the engine
 

mr.fusion

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MPG should be a concern for most people, no matter what kind of vehicle.... unless it's just a toy vehicle, playing on the weekend etc. Can I drive afford to drive it with horrible mpg? Sure. But it doesn't matter if it's a Honda Civic or Hellcat. It's always nice to get "good" mileage for the vehicle you have and sucks if you can't get close to what it should do.

I have a 1979 F150 4x4 with a 460 on 33's. It's not a daily driver....I don't care really what it gets. Probably 7-9 on the highway and about 5 around town. lol
My brother has a Mustang that runs 9's at the track. Same deal... who cares what the mpg is because it's built for the track. I doubt many bought a Ram 1500 just to be a weekend toy or garage queen.

My truck is for getting out and hitting the road. Occasionally I will use it for work, which means 150-200 miles a day. How bad is too bad? 10mpg? 12? Just fill it up and look the other way? At some point, it should matter for everyone

I used to have a 2004 Durango with the 5.7 and got about 17mpg on a work day, and 12-13 around town running errands etc. But that's about right for that vehicle....not bad actually. My daily work vehicle is a 2014 Durango and I skipped the 5.7 because I got it to drive 800-1000 miles a week. The 3.6 runs great and I average 20-21 if I run it hard and 22-23 if I don't. If it could only do 17 I would be pissed and get something else. Might as well enjoy driving a 5.7 right?
 

frostymug

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I let the dealership install it warranty is still good not an issue. The airbag inflation has not change from stock to level what raise it was a space on top of the airbag strut. I had a 2014 ram that had airbag and did the same adding the space with links. the dealership installed and about 2 year the passenger side airbag failed the dealership replaced both front as a set for me. never had any problems with the dealership.

When you disconnect the system at the entry level. this is when the bag is fully decompress, so there nothing that will enter the system because of a check value. never had a problem plus if i need to service my tank i have nitrogen available at my work
how much was the labor cost from the dealer?
 

PowerJrod

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MPG should be a concern for most people, no matter what kind of vehicle.... unless it's just a toy vehicle, playing on the weekend etc. Can I drive afford to drive it with horrible mpg? Sure. But it doesn't matter if it's a Honda Civic or Hellcat. It's always nice to get "good" mileage for the vehicle you have and sucks if you can't get close to what it should do.

I have a 1979 F150 4x4 with a 460 on 33's. It's not a daily driver....I don't care really what it gets. Probably 7-9 on the highway and about 5 around town. lol
My brother has a Mustang that runs 9's at the track. Same deal... who cares what the mpg is because it's built for the track. I doubt many bought a Ram 1500 just to be a weekend toy or garage queen.

My truck is for getting out and hitting the road. Occasionally I will use it for work, which means 150-200 miles a day. How bad is too bad? 10mpg? 12? Just fill it up and look the other way? At some point, it should matter for everyone

I used to have a 2004 Durango with the 5.7 and got about 17mpg on a work day, and 12-13 around town running errands etc. But that's about right for that vehicle....not bad actually. My daily work vehicle is a 2014 Durango and I skipped the 5.7 because I got it to drive 800-1000 miles a week. The 3.6 runs great and I average 20-21 if I run it hard and 22-23 if I don't. If it could only do 17 I would be pissed and get something else. Might as well enjoy driving a 5.7 right?
Well said! I had the same 2004 Durango limited Hemi, man that was a gas hog!
 

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