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Headers

Does the dipstick go in between the primaries or does it hug around the headers?
 
We installed these OBX long tube headers on my 2020 Rebel at my shop, steering shaft hits the headers must dent in the area of contact to header for clearance, the side sway bar bracket both sides (lower portion) needed to be heavily trimmed to clear headers. We heat wrapped the steering shaft area as well as applied heat & dented that section in for clearance. Check engine lights came on after about 10 miles we are installing spacing to hopefully correct issue. Over all they are definitely worth the money, performance is very noticeable as well as the sound is more of a deep engine sound through exhaust witch is bada$$.

If you don't address the clearance for header to steering shaft or sway bar brackets you will have future issues with the heat from headers melting away the rubber boot on shaft and will feel contact issues to header also the lower portion of headers will rattle against sway brackets if you don't trim for clearance.

(Pics) Look at the side by side size difference from stock to these WOW!

Hope this saves you guys time, money and aggravation.

-Vinny
Mac Performance
 

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We installed these OBX long tube headers on my 2020 Rebel at my shop, steering shaft hits the headers must dent in the area of contact to header for clearance, the side sway bar bracket both sides (lower portion) needed to be heavily trimmed to clear headers. We heat wrapped the steering shaft area as well as applied heat & dented that section in for clearance. Check engine lights came on after about 10 miles we are installing spacing to hopefully correct issue. Over all they are definitely worth the money, performance is very noticeable as well as the sound is more of a deep engine sound through exhaust witch is bada$$.

If you don't address the clearance for header to steering shaft or sway bar brackets you will have future issues with the heat from headers melting away the rubber boot on shaft and will feel contact issues to header also the lower portion of headers will rattle against sway brackets if you don't trim for clearance.

(Pics) Look at the side by side size difference from stock to these WOW!

Hope this saves you guys time, money and aggravation.

-Vinny
Mac Performance
Looking to do this to my 19 rebel, how long did it take? Do it by yourself or have help? And on a scale of 1-10 how big of a headache was it? Also you mentioned you did this at your shop, did you have it on a lift? And do you think a lift is necessary for install?
 
Looking to do this to my 19 rebel, how long did it take? Do it by yourself or have help? And on a scale of 1-10 how big of a headache was it? Also you mentioned you did this at your shop, did you have it on a lift? And do you think a lift is necessary for install?
He hasn't been on here in over a year FYI. You might want to scan the performance threads and/or post your question there
 
Alright. With a little more time tonight, here’s more detail.

PLEASE NOTE. I make mention of other performance mods in this post, HOWEVER, this post is about header install. If you have questions or comments about Vararam or Pulsar, please send me a message or a new/ seperate post. I think we would all agree that when researching the hijack posts make it exceedingly difficult.

I bought the OBX catted from eBay. If folks have opinions about OBX, please save them. Thank you.

I also have the Vararam Air Grabber and the Pulsar PCM piggy back. By themselves a badass combo. Trust me. Lots of folks seem to want to doubt the Pulsar, but if I was going to do one performance mod, that would be it. Period. That was my first mod so I am confident in my statement.

As for the headers, it’s been 24 hours, but after driving 50 miles It’s better than it was yesterday and it was pretty darn good yesterday. I have had zero engine check lights/ codes. No spacers.

The sound is GREAT. Not loud if that is what you’re looking for, but I would describe it as aggressive. It’s more engine type sound than loud exhaust. It sounds hot and aggressive.

As for level of effort of installation, It’s big. Not overly difficult (relative I know), but tedious and time consuming. Unless you have experienced help, its stressful to say the very least. Having done it now, its not that stressful, but going through it the first time was.

Not sure if necessary, but we removed the engine mount bolt on one side at a time and pivoted the engine one side at a time. To jack the engine we resorted to the pulley as a jack point. Scared me, but it was fine.

The 02 sensors. The extensions you see on line will not fit the 2019. 2019 are flat 4 like a GM, but the connectors are different. We resorted to measuring each of the 4 and splicing. Not ideal, but we discovered the lack of proper extensions after the tear down.

Pay close attention to what sensor goes where before you disconnect. The are two on each side. Don’t touch the sensor tips. (Pros know this. Written fior us newbies).

O2 sensor connectors. Unique. Hard to describe, but to disconnect them you need to stick a screw driver down the top of the femal side toward the male side after disengaging the red”stop.” In other words, take your thumb nail, pull the red thing down, then stick the screwdriver in the opening on the male side (on the same vertical side as the red part, opposite end).

Dip stick. There is a bracket down by the block that holds it in place in addition to the long bracket up high on the dipstick shaft by the manifold. You can’t just pull it out like you might normallly without creating two small holes in the dipstick shaft. Don’t ask me how I know this.

The driver side header is the easiest by far. No need to disconnect the steering or shift cable. I would try installing without polling out the dipstick. If not possible, pull out the header and figure out how to remove the dipstick bracket. It looked like it’s behind the motor mount...not easy.

Manifold bolts. The stock bolts are too long for headers. Could not find them in local auto parts stores. However, based on research, 8mm 1.25 35mm 8 grade are fine. Use gold anti seize on bolts and O2 sensors.

As far as exhaust, we had to cut the pipe. However, since the cut would be in the middle of the stock resonator, we simply reversed the pipe and cut the other end. Confirmed with local muffler shop resonator is bi-directional.

I’m sure there is more. The process was stressful but fun. It took us two + days. If we did it again it would take us a day or so...just like anything you do the first time...except, well, you know.

In the end I am VERY HAPPY. Hope this helps. Good luck.
I know this is a old post but I'm looking to buy a set of long tube headers & was looking at the OBX Ebay headers. Was just wondering if this was the ones you bought & installed? I was told that the 2017 OBX headers wouldn't fit. If you can help thanks.
 
Alright. With a little more time tonight, here’s more detail.

PLEASE NOTE. I make mention of other performance mods in this post, HOWEVER, this post is about header install. If you have questions or comments about Vararam or Pulsar, please send me a message or a new/ seperate post. I think we would all agree that when researching the hijack posts make it exceedingly difficult.

I bought the OBX catted from eBay. If folks have opinions about OBX, please save them. Thank you.

I also have the Vararam Air Grabber and the Pulsar PCM piggy back. By themselves a badass combo. Trust me. Lots of folks seem to want to doubt the Pulsar, but if I was going to do one performance mod, that would be it. Period. That was my first mod so I am confident in my statement.

As for the headers, it’s been 24 hours, but after driving 50 miles It’s better than it was yesterday and it was pretty darn good yesterday. I have had zero engine check lights/ codes. No spacers.

The sound is GREAT. Not loud if that is what you’re looking for, but I would describe it as aggressive. It’s more engine type sound than loud exhaust. It sounds hot and aggressive.

As for level of effort of installation, It’s big. Not overly difficult (relative I know), but tedious and time consuming. Unless you have experienced help, its stressful to say the very least. Having done it now, its not that stressful, but going through it the first time was.

Not sure if necessary, but we removed the engine mount bolt on one side at a time and pivoted the engine one side at a time. To jack the engine we resorted to the pulley as a jack point. Scared me, but it was fine.

The 02 sensors. The extensions you see on line will not fit the 2019. 2019 are flat 4 like a GM, but the connectors are different. We resorted to measuring each of the 4 and splicing. Not ideal, but we discovered the lack of proper extensions after the tear down.

Pay close attention to what sensor goes where before you disconnect. The are two on each side. Don’t touch the sensor tips. (Pros know this. Written fior us newbies).

O2 sensor connectors. Unique. Hard to describe, but to disconnect them you need to stick a screw driver down the top of the femal side toward the male side after disengaging the red”stop.” In other words, take your thumb nail, pull the red thing down, then stick the screwdriver in the opening on the male side (on the same vertical side as the red part, opposite end).

Dip stick. There is a bracket down by the block that holds it in place in addition to the long bracket up high on the dipstick shaft by the manifold. You can’t just pull it out like you might normallly without creating two small holes in the dipstick shaft. Don’t ask me how I know this.

The driver side header is the easiest by far. No need to disconnect the steering or shift cable. I would try installing without polling out the dipstick. If not possible, pull out the header and figure out how to remove the dipstick bracket. It looked like it’s behind the motor mount...not easy.

Manifold bolts. The stock bolts are too long for headers. Could not find them in local auto parts stores. However, based on research, 8mm 1.25 35mm 8 grade are fine. Use gold anti seize on bolts and O2 sensors.

As far as exhaust, we had to cut the pipe. However, since the cut would be in the middle of the stock resonator, we simply reversed the pipe and cut the other end. Confirmed with local muffler shop resonator is bi-directional.

I’m sure there is more. The process was stressful but fun. It took us two + days. If we did it again it would take us a day or so...just like anything you do the first time...except, well, you know.

In the end I am VERY HAPPY. Hope this helps. Good luck.
Sweet !
 

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