Going to DIY ceramic coat soon

[MilehighRam]

Im going to do apply a ceramic coat myself when the weather warms up a bit. I know prep is key, and figure itll take a weekend to do correctly in my garage. I want to make sure Ive got the steps down correctly, along with the required materials. Here's the process as I see it now, let me know if there should be any steps in between.

1) wash truck; use dawn dishsoap to remove prior sealant
2) clay bar
3) paint correct by polishing. I dont have a DA polisher yet; any recommendations on one to use? What types of polish? I have a black truck that is in good shape (always touch free washes) Ive heard good things about adams correcting polish.
4) Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) wipe down to remove any remaining oils
5) apply ceramic coat (probably 2 coats). not sure on which brand yet; Gtechniq maybe?
6) let cure in the garage for 2 days

 

[zlman]

I was going your same route until I stumbled upon these latest products. Turtle Wax.

Really some amazing stuff, pick your favorite manufacturer, they all have a ceramic line. Very user friendly.

 

[blubyu]

Your steps are correct although washing with Dawn really does nothing. Just use a standard premium wash soap without a bunch of BS gimmicky fillers. if you want to enjoy it get a Rupes polisher, if you want something that will work but will take you longer and wear you down get one of the cheaper Porter Cable or Griots polishers with a much shorter throw and much less power.

You may think your paint is great but it will need at least a 1 step protection. Griots correcting cream is a nice all in one.

For ceramic, Crystal Serum Light is probably the best bet for a beginner and works fantastic. 2 days of curing would be ideal for sure.

Don't let anyone fool you into these ceramic sprays being equivalent to true high end ceramic coating.

 

[GraniteRam]

Blubyu is correct on the soap, just use a regular car wash soap. You'll need to use some type of iron remover before you clay, I use Iron-X. A clay bar/mitt won't remove all the industrial fallout alone. I used a Griot's garage polisher and chemical guy's polishes when I did mine. I recommend their pads or lake country, I believe Adam's has pads also. Plan on a full weekend if not three days to do it, it's very labor intensive especially if this is your first time doing it. As far as coating, I went with Cquartz UK 3.0.

 

[ericd]

I used this one

Amazon.com: Color N Drive Car Ceramic Coating Kit 50 ml-9H Paint Sealant, Automotive Polish For Color Protection Against Scratches, Stains, Chipping And UV Light, Vehicle Care Deep Gloss Shine Finish, Easy To Use: Automotive

Buy Color N Drive Car Ceramic Coating Kit 50 ml-9H Paint Sealant, Automotive Polish For Color Protection Against Scratches, Stains, Chipping And UV Light, Vehicle Care Deep Gloss Shine Finish, Easy To Use: Automotive - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

A year and a half later it still looks great and water beads up like a fresh wax.
I'm not sure you're actually supposed to do 2 coats but maybe it's product specific.
I skipped all the paint correction steps and it still came out fine. I figured with a white vehicle I had a little more forgiveness.

I washed-clay bar-dried-1 coat of ceramic

 

[Hardlivin']

This guy can be annoying at times but makes very informative videos. I'll be following these steps when I do my ceramic coating soon

 

[jb772]

Your steps look pretty spot on - with that being said, I don't detail "professionally" but I do my vehicles, friends vehicles, and familys vehicles. I've always used dawn dish soap for my initial wash just because it's a soap that doesn't have any "gloss enhancers" or "incorporated wax" into it so it does what soap should do, and cleans the vehicle from any dirt or debris. I than use a clay bar (usually a mothers hand clay bar which you can do multiple vehicles with and easily washes off). For a dual action polisher, you don't need to go out and buy a $600 one at all, I use my 6" DA polisher from Harbor Freight (Chicago Tools I believe?) that was like $50 and it works amazing. For compound, depending on how severe the swirls are, I use CarPro Clearcut with an orange Lake Country CCS pad, and for polish I use CarPro Essence. I then wipe the car down as you stated, with IPA. Once all the oils are removed my go to ceramic coating is gTechnique Crystal Serrum Light + EXO V4 50Ml kit. It's super easy to apply and wipe off, but beware to do small sections and thoroughly wipe all of it off because it can turn into a cluster fook if you don't.

 

[jimk hunt]

Go to autogeek or ammo nyc on the tube for free, very good videos on how to get it done. I have the HF and it does a good job.

 

[MilehighRam]

Thanks for all the comments! Seems like I'm pretty close to having this figured out. I'd like to get this done somewhere in April (maybe doy wife's Cherokee too ). Found a great DA polisher o. eBay. Now for the rest of the supplies

 

[blubyu]

Thanks for all the comments! Seems like I'm pretty close to having this figured out. I'd like to get this done somewhere in April (maybe doy wife's Cherokee too ). Found a great DA polisher o. eBay. Now for the rest of the supplies

If doing in a standard non climate controlled garage I highly recommend doing it before the humid months hit. Humidity can add an annoyance factor in the entire process.

 

[MilehighRam]

If doing in a standard non climate controlled garage I highly recommend doing it before the humid months hit. Humidity can add an annoyance factor in the entire process.

Understood. Im in Denver; humidity isnt usually a thing.

 

[klail]

Blubyu is correct on the soap, just use a regular car wash soap. You'll need to use some type of iron remover before you clay, I use Iron-X. A clay bar/mitt won't remove all the industrial fallout alone. I used a Griot's garage polisher and chemical guy's polishes when I did mine. I recommend their pads or lake country, I believe Adam's has pads also. Plan on a full weekend if not three days to do it, it's very labor intensive especially if this is your first time doing it. As far as coating, I went with Cquartz UK 3.0.

@MilehighRam I agree with this response in that an iron deposit remover is important after you wash. I would probably do it prior to the clay bar. Definitely don't want to lock the iron in under the ceramic coating.

 

[blubyu]

Also make sure you don't do it in direct sun light because it cannot dry on the paint and can stain. Definitely do it before the clay bar step. For the best "picture" effect spraying directly onto a dirty dry vehicle is best, for best use clean the car and remove any tar or other junk so the Iron-X can do its true job.

 

[MilehighRam]

Also make sure you don't do it in direct sun light because it cannot dry on the paint and can stain. Definitely do it before the clay bar step. For the best "picture" effect spraying directly onto a dirty dry vehicle is best, for best use clean the car and remove any tar or other junk so the Iron-X can do its true job.

So I should spray the iron x onto a dirty (unwashed) truck, then wash it off?

I'm also thinking about skipping the compound step and only polishing as there are no swirls. Never been in a touch wash. Paint actually looks really good as is, but understand the importance of polish.

 

[klail]

So I should spray the iron x onto a dirty (unwashed) truck, then wash it off?

I'm also thinking about skipping the compound step and only polishing as there are no swirls. Never been in a touch wash. Paint actually looks really good as is, but understand the importance of polish.

I would wash your rig and THEN spray the iron x, let it dwell for a bit and then spray it off. My guess is the product will have specific directions on the bottle or packaging so just follow that. If there are no instructions, there are good tutorials on youtube. Look up "Pan the Organizer iron remover" and I'm sure something will come up.

 

[Hardlivin']

So I should spray the iron x onto a dirty (unwashed) truck, then wash it off?

I'm also thinking about skipping the compound step and only polishing as there are no swirls. Never been in a touch wash. Paint actually looks really good as is, but understand the importance of polish.

If you skim through the video I posted it gives step by step instructions. I washed truck, used iron remover, rinsed off, then used the clay

 

[blubyu]

So I should spray the iron x onto a dirty (unwashed) truck, then wash it off?

I'm also thinking about skipping the compound step and only polishing as there are no swirls. Never been in a touch wash. Paint actually looks really good as is, but understand the importance of polish.

If you want it to look cool then spray it on a dirty truck, if you want it to work the best spray it on a washed truck. Being a new truck you may get by with a nice AIO before ceramic coating but for the best clarity its never good to skip a step and its always good to put a high quality LED on the paint before locking in any defects under the ceramic. Direct LED lighting shows a lot more defects than the sun will.

 

[pabla]

Along with the iron X, I would also recommend Tar X. It takes off any tar spots and makes the paint very smooth. Also dont clay bar just for the heck of it, clay bars do create micro marring which will need to polished out. Only clay bar the 'rough' portions of the paint. You can put a glove on your hand and rub the panels of the truck after its washed to determine which panels need it the most. For ceramic coatings i highly recommend the Gtehcniq line. Use Crystal Serum Light topped with some Exo V4 and youve got a long lasting killed combo. Make sure when buffing off the coatings dont apply too much pressure and buff off all remaining residue. Youtube is your bestfriend for guides on any detailing related video. Make sure before you coat the truck you pull it out in the sun and confirm your pleased with your polishing job, the last thing you want is to pull the truck out after the coating only to see it still has swirls or holograms (trust me I know that feeling from experience). Other than that good luck!

 

[klail]

Along with the iron X, I would also recommend Tar X. It takes off any tar spots and makes the paint very smooth. Also dont clay bar just for the heck of it, clay bars do create micro marring which will need to polished out. Only clay bar the 'rough' portions of the paint. You can put a glove on your hand and rub the panels of the truck after its washed to determine which panels need it the most. For ceramic coatings i highly recommend the Gtehcniq line. Use Crystal Serum Light topped with some Exo V4 and youve got a long lasting killed combo. Make sure when buffing off the coatings dont apply too much pressure and buff off all remaining residue. Youtube is your bestfriend for guides on any detailing related video. Make sure before you coat the truck you pull it out in the sun and confirm your pleased with your polishing job, the last thing you want is to pull the truck out after the coating only to see it still has swirls or holograms (trust me I know that feeling from experience). Other than that good luck!

Great info!!

 

[MilehighRam]

Since there will likely be crystal serum lite and/or EXO left over, would you use it on the exterior glass?