Full Float Axles

[bigjeffg]

I’m often working my 1500 very hard. Loaded very close to max payload, towing a trailer, driving on washboard roads. With all this punishment, I would like to extend my safety net, by building up my truck. What I don’t want to do is detract from what I love about my truck, the great ride.

I’m looking into having Full Float axles built for my truck. I know that in the U.S., you can’t have a vehicle engineered, to increase payload. I'm always at the limits of my trucks capacity, I want to increase the practical limit. I still won’t exceed published limits, but the axle will not be working so hard at the limit.

I wanted to float this out to the group. I’m looking at a couple options to get a bolt in full float axle

Option 1
Custom Ford 9” with or without ARB locker. Appropriate gears to match your front end.

Option 2
Custom Dana 60. Basically narrow TRX full float D60 with appropriate gearing and locker of your choice.

Both options retain breaks, wheels, electric parking break (if equipped), etc…

If there is interest, we might be able to pull together a group purchase. We would all need to choose the same option.

Any interest, or am I the only one???

 

[Darksteel165]

2500/3500?

 

[bigjeffg]

2500/3500?

I may be missing your point. Is this a suggestion to change to a 2500/3500? If my assumption is correct, I don’t like the way solid front axle trucks feel on the road. I prefer the 1500 for comfort on long roadtrips.

IFS is better for go fast off roading. I already have Jeep Wranglers for the slow technical off road (Rock Crawling).

The Ram Power Wagon was in the running when I was considering my purchase. The 1500 won out. Both options have compromises. I just had a path to fix the compromises with the Ram 1500.

 

[kapinallinen2]

1500 with a full floating rear axle, there goes the ride comfort IMO.
Ford 9" with a locker, now we talking, but is there something wrong with the 3.92 e-locker?

 

[HSKR R/T]

I’m often working my 1500 very hard. Loaded very close to max payload, towing a trailer, driving on washboard roads. With all this punishment, I would like to extend my safety net, by building up my truck. What I don’t want to do is detract from what I love about my truck, the great ride.

I’m looking into having Full Float axles built for my truck. I know that in the U.S., you can’t have a vehicle engineered, to increase payload. I'm always at the limits of my trucks capacity, I want to increase the practical limit. I still won’t exceed published limits, but the axle will not be working so hard at the limit.

I wanted to float this out to the group. I’m looking at a couple options to get a bolt in full float axle

Option 1
Custom Ford 9” with or without ARB locker. Appropriate gears to match your front end.

Option 2
Custom Dana 60. Basically narrow TRX full float D60 with appropriate gearing and locker of your choice.

Both options retain breaks, wheels, electric parking break (if equipped), etc…

If there is interest, we might be able to pull together a group purchase. We would all need to choose the same option.

Any interest, or am I the only one???

The Chrysler 9.25 rear you already have is a very capable axle. I really don't see the benefit of changing it. The don't would be he only sticking point

 

[Scap]

1500 with a full floating rear axle, there goes the ride comfort IMO.
Ford 9" with a locker, now we talking, but is there something wrong with the 3.92 e-locker?

How does a full floating rear axle change ride comfort?

 

[silver billet]

I’m often working my 1500 very hard. Loaded very close to max payload, towing a trailer, driving on washboard roads. With all this punishment, I would like to extend my safety net, by building up my truck. What I don’t want to do is detract from what I love about my truck, the great ride.

I’m looking into having Full Float axles built for my truck. I know that in the U.S., you can’t have a vehicle engineered, to increase payload. I'm always at the limits of my trucks capacity, I want to increase the practical limit. I still won’t exceed published limits, but the axle will not be working so hard at the limit.

I wanted to float this out to the group. I’m looking at a couple options to get a bolt in full float axle

Option 1
Custom Ford 9” with or without ARB locker. Appropriate gears to match your front end.

Option 2
Custom Dana 60. Basically narrow TRX full float D60 with appropriate gearing and locker of your choice.

Both options retain breaks, wheels, electric parking break (if equipped), etc…

If there is interest, we might be able to pull together a group purchase. We would all need to choose the same option.

Any interest, or am I the only one???

IMHO, if it isn't broken don't fix it. There are guys on here pulling 5w's that have to be 1000+ pounds over their payload and their truck is still bolted together.

 

[Rick3478]

How does a full floating rear axle change ride comfort?
View attachment 175964

This depiction of semi-floating is incorrect. Don't know where they got this, but the drawing shows a conventional non-floating live axle.

 

[Av1]

I’m often working my 1500 very hard. Loaded very close to max payload, towing a trailer, driving on washboard roads. With all this punishment, I would like to extend my safety net, by building up my truck. What I don’t want to do is detract from what I love about my truck, the great ride.

I’m looking into having Full Float axles built for my truck. I know that in the U.S., you can’t have a vehicle engineered, to increase payload. I'm always at the limits of my trucks capacity, I want to increase the practical limit. I still won’t exceed published limits, but the axle will not be working so hard at the limit.

Custom differentials are common in the performance world. They can get expensive to build, even when you do most of the work yourself, as you likely already know.

That sounds like a fun project and I'm curious how it goes. Please follow up if you go through with it.

 

[Scap]

This depiction of semi-floating is incorrect. Don't know where they got this, but the drawing shows a conventional non-floating live axle.

Putting the semi/non floating issues aside, would axle float affect ride quality?

 

[Rick3478]

The Chrysler 9.25 rear you already have is a very capable axle. I really don't see the benefit of changing it. The don't would be he only sticking point

The benefits of full-floating axle:
1) Two bearings on each wheel, so potentially twice the load capacity for the same size. And no vertical load at all on the axle, so its design can be optimized for torque.
2) You can pull the axles to work on the differential gears without removing wheels, jacking it up, unloading the payload.

The Dana 60 is a very capable axle. An advantage is the rear cover which can be easily upgraded to finned cast aluminum for better cooling.

The 9" Ford has an advantage of being able to remove the entire carrier assembly so you can service it on a bench instead of under the vehicle.

Both are used and abused by racers with good results and will handle obscene amounts of power.

The expensive part is all the custom welding and parts needed to fit OEM suspension links, brakes, and wheels. Yes there are people who do this sort of thing.

I think I'd lean toward the Dana as most similar to the rest of the truck's technology.

Couple questions/suggestions:
1) Can full floating hubs and axles fit the 1500's six bolt pattern and hub pilot size? Using OEM brake parts would be a plus.
2) Can I get an e-locker compatible with the truck electronics I already have?
3) How expensive? If it costs as much as a new 2500 truck, it wouldn't be practical.

 

[Rick3478]

Putting the semi/non floating issues aside, would axle float affect ride quality?

A little more unsprung weight for the extra bearings and hub size, but I wouldn't think it would affect ride much.

 

[bigjeffg]

Moving from a Semi-float to full float would not impact ride quality. You would increase weight, but ride quality is not impacted by unsprung weight.

 

[bigjeffg]

IMHO, if it isn't broken don't fix it. There are guys on here pulling 5w's that have to be 1000+ pounds over their payload and their truck is still bolted together.

I agree, for most owners this wouldn’t be needed. It all comes down to use case. For those of us that abuse our trucks, it may be worth considering.

I have a friend that has already had a rear axle failure. Metal splitting where the bearing mount. He has chosen to replace with a new OEM axle, and just won’t play as hard. I’m leaning towards building stronger, and playing harder.

 

[bigdodge]

The benefits of full-floating axle:
1) Two bearings on each wheel, so potentially twice the load capacity for the same size. And no vertical load at all on the axle, so its design can be optimized for torque.
2) You can pull the axles to work on the differential gears without removing wheels, jacking it up, unloading the payload.

The Dana 60 is a very capable axle. An advantage is the rear cover which can be easily upgraded to finned cast aluminum for better cooling.

The 9" Ford has an advantage of being able to remove the entire carrier assembly so you can service it on a bench instead of under the vehicle.

Both are used and abused by racers with good results and will handle obscene amounts of power.

The expensive part is all the custom welding and parts needed to fit OEM suspension links, brakes, and wheels. Yes there are people who do this sort of thing.

I think I'd lean toward the Dana as most similar to the rest of the truck's technology.

Couple questions/suggestions:
1) Can full floating hubs and axles fit the 1500's six bolt pattern and hub pilot size? Using OEM brake parts would be a plus.
2) Can I get an e-locker compatible with the truck electronics I already have?
3) How expensive? If it costs as much as a new 2500 truck, it wouldn't be practical.

but the frame will still be a 1500 frame
axle is not the only thing in determining gvw

 

[bigdodge]

Moving from a Semi-float to full float would not impact ride quality. You would increase weight, but ride quality is not impacted by unsprung weight.

then why don't the 2500/3500 ride as smooth as the 1500

 

[kapinallinen2]

How does a full floating rear axle change ride comfort?
View attachment 175964

Added un-sprung weight.

 

[bigjeffg]

1500 with a full floating rear axle, there goes the ride comfort IMO.
Ford 9" with a locker, now we talking, but is there something wrong with the 3.92 e-locker?

Nothing is wrong with OEM locker. It’s fantastic. The driving force to this project, isn’t to fix a locker issue. Full float axles can take more abuse.

There is a company in Australia that will convert the Chrysler 9.25 to full float. I don’t want to ship an axle to Australia. Their upgrade option is a Ford 9” full float. This axle it not compatible with the OEM locker. It would have to use a different locker. They are willing to export to the USA. This is my first bolt in option.

 

[bigjeffg]

then why don't the 2500/3500 ride as smooth as the 1500

Spring rates and solid front axles are the cause of the different ride experiences.

 

[bigjeffg]

IFS will always provide a better on road drive experience. Better for go fast off roading: playing in the Sand Dunes, or long unimproved washboard roads in the desert.

Solid axles are simple and tuff. Much better for slow technical off roading. Much better for heavy loads, and maintain reliability. The compromise is in on road ride quality, and go fast off roading.

I use my Wranglers Rubicon, with solid axle front and rear, for the slow technical off roading. The Ram 1500 is way more comfortable for road trips, and go fast off roading.

For me, this exercise is about upgrading the 1500 to provide a stronger rear axle, so I can play harder, with less fear of breaking in the middle of nowhere.

I understand that not everyone uses their rigs the way I do. For me, this will be a reasonable upgrade. For many, it would be a waste of money. As I mentioned, it’s all about the way we use our trucks.