5thGenRams Forums

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Fuel tank capacity

As HSKR mentioned, your method is not going to be accurate. The gauge/computer is not that precise when it comes to fuel levels. So when you say you drove it down to 1/4 tank, how will you know exactly how much fuel is really left? There is a guy online that tested his F-150 to see how far he could drive once his truck said he had zero miles left until empty. He was able to drive 49 additional miles before the truck died. That’s a lot of extra fuel. The tank should say what size it is. If you don’t trust that, then drive the truck until it dies, then fill it up and see how much goes in. If you are using Jerry Cans, don’t fill them all the way. Fill to exactly 5 gallons based on what the fuel pump tells you is actually 5 gallons, not the fill line on the can.
expand...Don't read this in an angry argumentative way. I'm simply retelling what I've already said earlier. As well as presenting my exact tests.

I posted earlier that I logged all the fuel that went into the cans at the fuel station. I didn't get the Jerry cans filled with magic. Though that would be nice.

I filled each to exactly 5.28 gallons. Because 20 liters is 5.28 gallons. which the cans are designed to hold. It says 20 liters on the side. See photo in earlier post, it doesn't have a fill line. These are military style fuel cans. Not plastic cans where you can see the fuel reach a certain level inside.

Accurate data can be collected with numbers that are followed by a decimal then more numbers. The same way accurate data can be gathered with fractions. They do not have to be exact whole numbers like 5, to reach a conclusion.

This being simple addition, and multiplication. As well as labeled measureing tools. I think it's plenty accurate enough.

Each can got 5.28 gallons. First tests filling at a qtr tank. I used 5 cans which is exactly 28.40 gallons. No more no less. I also stated that I ran it to where it was riding on empty. I stated I did 2 tests. 1 to a qtr of a tank. Didn't want to make assumptions, so I ran it to empty then filled. The empty test I had 6 Jerry cans. Which was exactly 31.68 gallons. The truck took all but 2.89 gallons of the 31.68. Which means it took 28.79 gallons.

The Jerry cans have multiple fill nozzles. The ones used in the test are designed to stop flowing once the fuel reaches a certain point in the fill tube. Thus I was able to take the sixth can pour it into a measuring bucket. Where I got 2.89 gallons.

Now this isn't accurate to the milliliters. I'll admit that.

I also ran a 3rd test running it to empty using my home fuel pump. Yes it's like a little gas station. It even has digital reading for gallons pumped. Still got 28 gallons pumped. The exact number that time was 28.59.

Now even if like you stated I had fuel left on empty, in the 23 gallon tank it says I have. That means it held even more then 28 gallons. I'm not gonna run the fuel pump dry for a test. When I've already saw it holds more then 23 gallons. 5 to 6 gallons more in fact. That's a decent jump. If fuel was leaking in the ground. 5 or 6 gallons would be noticeable very fast.

Now all these numbers add up to be close enough with differences of less then. 0.20 gallons. Not enough difference to make a difference if I was to quote pual Harrell.

That also tells me even though the truck says empty with 0 miles in range. It still has a little bit of fuel left. Which I already considered because it's not unheard of. That these manufacturers tune the fuel to say empty while you still have a few gallons.

Also here is a pic of my fuel tank. I'm only attaching the one. I looked around the entire tank. With exception to the top tight spaces. I did not see a number next to dt. I included one with a part number as well. I didn't get anything back on it except for a wiring harness.20250212_192843.jpg20250212_191717.jpg20250212_192326.jpg
 
Last edited:
You are asking to cause issues with fill your fuel tank later on by filling up the fill tube to the Jerry can nozzle.

There is no 30 gallon tank. And your methods are not accurate at all. Fill up at fuel pumps only. Unless you run out of gas and can't make it to fuel pump
Firstly I don't fill it up every time with the Jerry cans. I fill up my electrically powered transfer tank at home with the Jerry cans. I have a 100 gallon diesel. A 60 gallon and 200 gallon gasoline tank.

I realize there is no part that is labeled or marketed as 30 gallons tanks for these pick ups.

I Ran a 2020 that I filled with Jerry cans for 4 years past 100k never had a problem. Don't just make statements that you think are factually sound. The nozzles have a cut off. I certainly stated that.

The fill tube Is also one of the first things I was told suck on these trucks. The fuel tube will shut off pumps prematurely. "Venturi effect". Google how fuel station handles shut off. I worked on them for years. A fairy doesn't fly up the tube and prevent fuel from going back up the fill tube every time. No gas fairy's my friend.

They shut off from a pressure change when the fuel reaches the nozzle. So is everyone going to have problems in the future since fuel backs up the tube in order to shut off the nozzles?

I'm also aware a build up of fumes can trigger it to shut off(which is what these fill tube do and shouldn't.) Most often though, it's when the fuel builds to the point it reaches the nozzle. Then it shuts off. The fuel settles. You can pump a little more. It even states on my fuel door. After this happens. Remove the nozzle. Wait 5 seconds reinsert. It'll then pump another random amount of fuel.

All that don't change the fact that the tank I have says 23 gallons on the vehicle equipment. Yet has 28-29 gallons in it right at this very moment. A Jerry can isn't going to fill it up anymore then a pump will even if it did. The fill tube isn't going to hold 5-6 gallons of fuel.

A Jerry can holds 20 liters. That's 5.28 gallons. I take 6 of them to the fuel station. Then fill each with 5.28 gallons. That's not hard math. 5.28 + 5.28 + 5.28 + 5.28 + 5.28 + 5.28.

The Jerry cans have nozzles with a safety stop on them. On top of that my 60 gallon transfer tank. If i fill up my truck with it. Will only have 30 gallons left. Which is accurate as a digital pump meter can be. Which when I filled up with said on the digital gauge. 28.59. Now those are the exact same pumps you use at a fuel station. Automatic shut off included. Now how exactly did a 23 gallon tank hold 28.59?

3 different measurements all come to within 0.20 of a difference in the amount of fuel. That is pretty accurate. My point is. It's either not really 23 gallons and I got a bigger tank some how, or the 23 gallon tank is really a 28 gallon tank allowing for the you're really at 5 gallons when you hit empty.

Those 3 different methods again are. 1: Ran truck to qtr tank. Filled truck with 5, 20 liter(5.28 gallon cans) with some left over in the 5th can. I said I don't want to assume anything. Let's just note that amount n test with meters, and other measuring methods.

2: I then ran the truck to empty. Not so empty it died no. I took 6, 20 liter cans filled from fuel station to exactly 5.28 each. The truck drank all but 2.89 gallons of it. Well that's 28.79 gallons.

3: ran truck to empty (again not it died in the street empty but empty via gauge.) then I used my home set up. Which is a legit gasoline pump. With a digital meter. It filled it up to 28.59 gallons.

I came here to try and figure this out. Cause 26,27,28. Are all more then 23. Gallons more at that.

I guess I'll measure to the oz to be more accurate for you and pour it in a little bit at a time on an uncut video.
 
^ Bingo there you go , couldn’t remember where it was.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Am I missing something here? I searched that part number. Came up a wiring harness, or abs module parts.

20250212_192843.jpg20250212_191717.jpg20250212_192326.jpg
 
Firstly I don't fill it up every time with the Jerry cans. I fill up my electrically powered transfer tank at home with the Jerry cans. I have a 100 gallon diesel. A 60 gallon and 200 gallon gasoline tank.

I realize there is no part that is labeled or marketed as 30 gallons tanks for these pick ups.

I Ran a 2020 that I filled with Jerry cans for 4 years past 100k never had a problem. Don't just make statements that you think are factually sound. The nozzles have a cut off. I certainly stated that.

The fill tube Is also one of the first things I was told suck on these trucks. The fuel tube will shut off pumps prematurely. "Venturi effect". Google how fuel station handles shut off. I worked on them for years. A fairy doesn't fly up the tube and prevent fuel from going back up the fill tube every time. No gas fairy's my friend.

They shut off from a pressure change when the fuel reaches the nozzle. So is everyone going to have problems in the future since fuel backs up the tube in order to shut off the nozzles?

I'm also aware a build up of fumes can trigger it to shut off(which is what these fill tube do and shouldn't.) Most often though, it's when the fuel builds to the point it reaches the nozzle. Then it shuts off. The fuel settles. You can pump a little more. It even states on my fuel door. After this happens. Remove the nozzle. Wait 5 seconds reinsert. It'll then pump another random amount of fuel.

All that don't change the fact that the tank I have says 23 gallons on the vehicle equipment. Yet has 28-29 gallons in it right at this very moment. A Jerry can isn't going to fill it up anymore then a pump will even if it did. The fill tube isn't going to hold 5-6 gallons of fuel.

A Jerry can holds 20 liters. That's 5.28 gallons. I take 6 of them to the fuel station. Then fill each with 5.28 gallons. That's not hard math. 5.28 + 5.28 + 5.28 + 5.28 + 5.28 + 5.28.

The Jerry cans have nozzles with a safety stop on them. On top of that my 60 gallon transfer tank. If i fill up my truck with it. Will only have 30 gallons left. Which is accurate as a digital pump meter can be. Which when I filled up with said on the digital gauge. 28.59. Now those are the exact same pumps you use at a fuel station. Automatic shut off included. Now how exactly did a 23 gallon tank hold 28.59?

3 different measurements all come to within 0.20 of a difference in the amount of fuel. That is pretty accurate. My point is. It's either not really 23 gallons and I got a bigger tank some how, or the 23 gallon tank is really a 28 gallon tank allowing for the you're really at 5 gallons when you hit empty.

Those 3 different methods again are. 1: Ran truck to qtr tank. Filled truck with 5, 20 liter(5.28 gallon cans) with some left over in the 5th can. I said I don't want to assume anything. Let's just note that amount n test with meters, and other measuring methods.

2: I then ran the truck to empty. Not so empty it died no. I took 6, 20 liter cans filled from fuel station to exactly 5.28 each. The truck drank all but 2.89 gallons of it. Well that's 28.79 gallons.

3: ran truck to empty (again not it died in the street empty but empty via gauge.) then I used my home set up. Which is a legit gasoline pump. With a digital meter. It filled it up to 28.59 gallons.

I came here to try and figure this out. Cause 26,27,28. Are all more then 23. Gallons more at that.

I guess I'll measure to the oz to be more accurate for you and pour it in a little bit at a time on an uncut video.
Seems like you already have your mind made up. Sorry for trying or help
 
Found this online. Guy swapped a 23 gallon for a 33 gallon. Which one does yours look like? If it is the longer one, then somehow the factory installed a 33 gallon tank and didn’t list it and you got a free upgrade.

IMG_0213.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Seems like you already have your mind made up. Sorry for trying or help
I'm not trying to be rude,or ignore help. Being told I'm being inaccurate was just false, assumptive, and told me you didn't bother reading what all I said.

Im aware filling the tube to the brim can cause evap system damage. Im also aware these pumps, pump anywhere from 15-30 gallons per minute.

With pressures like that the tube fills before all the air in the tank can escape. Once it shuts off the nozzle fuel slowly drains from the fill tube as the air purges from the tank through the fill tube. The Jerry can nozzles I have, shut off because of that same pressure not allowing the tank to be over filled. The nozzle for the cans in the photo is not the one used for my truck. It's the one used to fill the transfer tank.

So even if the Jerry can would have overfilled the tank by 5-6 gallons. The pump woulda shut off and not allowed that extra 5-6 gallons. That's a lot of fuel. Far to much for the fuel fill tube to hold.

I apologize for being smart. Just wanted to be clear I'm not just guessing at this I have a decent understanding of these systems. Just no clue as to how a 23 gallon tank holds 28-30 gallons of fuel, and am 100% sure it's not because it's over filled. No way can that fill tube hold 5-6 gallons.
 
Found this online. Guy swapped a 23 gallon for a 33 gallon. Which one does yours look like? If it is the longer one, then somehow the factory installed a 33 gallon tank and didn’t list it and you got a free upgrade.

View attachment 196404
It's definitely not the 23. It's longer the the 23, shorter then the 33. Only by a little it looks like though. Mine has this d ring looking deal at the back I don't see on either of those. I found on here they are saying some came with a 26 gallon tank and that the part number is public? That'd leave 2-3 gallons unaccounted for.

I'd imagine these tanks hold a few gallons more then labeled at least that's not unheard of. I know for a 100% my wife's car does that. It's labeled as a 15 gallon tank, she let's it get right on the empty line all the time. It'll take 15 gallons from that line to fill. she has let it run completely empty twice and, it took 18 gallons to fill when she did.

20250212_191734.jpg
 
cc59aab8401888aaf152f3ce28dacf00.jpg


Thats 26 compared to a 33.. you can look for the 3rd strap indention (arrowed) to help you determine which size you have. That part# for some reason didn’t help lol. I wanna say that shield on the size is the same for both (I swapped mine from 26 to 33 without an issue) so you can look at how much is uncovered. Lets say if its a foot then its probably a 26 gallon if less then its probably the 23 and if its well a lot then 33 lol but thats way easier to compare the difference.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
I could be totally wrong, but I think that white thing is just a handle for carrying the tank when removed.

I’ve read on this forum and elsewhere that people tend to think that the tanks are actually a little larger than advertised. I’d think that the fuel pump assembly would take up about 1/2 to 1 gallon worth of space inside the tank though. If the tank sags at all at the bottom when completely full, that might add a little more space. Maybe another gallon or so. I’d say you have the 26 gallon, but who knows. Your situation is strange for sure.
 
cc59aab8401888aaf152f3ce28dacf00.jpg


Thats 26 compared to a 33.. you can look for the 3rd strap indention (arrowed) to help you determine which size you have. That part# for some reason didn’t help lol. I wanna say that shield on the size is the same for both (I swapped mine from 26 to 33 without an issue) so you can look at how much is uncovered. Lets say if its a foot then its probably a 26 gallon if less then its probably the 23 and if its well a lot then 33 lol but thats way easier to compare the difference.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
There it is definitely. I was looking at that swapping 26 to 33. If I'm reading right the only reusable parts are the fuel pump, heat shield and a couple of the brackets? I definitely wanna swap to the larger tank. I'm guessing all data would be the guide he refers to for the removal?
 
I could be totally wrong, but I think that white thing is just a handle for carrying the tank when removed.

I’ve read on this forum and elsewhere that people tend to think that the tanks are actually a little larger than advertised. I’d think that the fuel pump assembly would take up about 1/2 to 1 gallon worth of space inside the tank though. If the tank sags at all at the bottom when completely full, that might add a little more space. Maybe another gallon or so. I’d say you have the 26 gallon, but who knows. Your situation is strange for sure.
It's the 26 for sure. the other fella on here had a picture for comparison. Which makes me happy cause I wanna swap if I'm reading correctly I can save some cash because the fuel pumps are the same.

Did you do it yourself? Did you follow that post from 2021 or did you use another guide if so would you mind sharing? Or would all data be enough to get the idea?
 
I’m sure prices have changed since I did the swap. The only big money cost item is really the fuel pump. New was around $550-600 for OEM for a 26/33 gallon pump but if you have a 26 gallon tank already avoid that cost thankfully. Oh and expect to pay freight on shipping for said tank unless you pick up locally through the dealer that probably cost close to the $180 price of the tank itself (do your homework and compare prices) once I got a quote from the local parts department that ended up price gouging the hell out all the parts I ended up ordering most online either through a vendor or Ebay and got lucky and avoided the shipping cost of the tank since vendor didn’t say anything in regards to additional freight charges other then what I originally paid for shipping. If you want the optionally 33 gallon skid plate thats an additional cost but you can either do without it or use the shorter 26 gallon one if you have it. (Just wont cover the new tank completely).


^ that gives you a pretty good idea in video form


^ a bible of information

Going from 26 to 33 off the top of my head

-new evap canister
-2 fuel lines
-fuel pump reused
- everything else you swap over
- use may or may not have the 3rd strap bracket and you can either make one yourself or buy a setup and mount it. Personally I’m still running without one no issues and I taken this truck as far as Montana from FL.. no tank sag even when fuel. It’s stout so I never worried about it and I always running the 33 gallon skid to help as well but even without it, it’s stout.
-there’s an optional bolt on 3rd crossmember for the skid plate if you decide to go with the bigger skid plate but you don’t have to install unless either way unless you want the added piece of mind

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Don’t be like me.. and think that whole 50k miles I put on at the time since new, I had a 23 gallon tank. Turns out from what I gather way down the line after everything at least on my Laramie I had the 26 gallon standard (not listed on the window sticker btw), cost me an additional two fuel pumps after everything but bought those used not new so it was less then $200. Short version bought a 26g pump used w/ 35k off eBay prior to having all parts on hand. Im guessing it was an old OEM factory stock unit p/n was way different from the replacement new 26/33g part numbers that I found and didn’t have another pump to compare it to physically. Wanted to speed the swap up when the time came so I went ahead and installed what new parts I could on the new tank and started second guessing if that pump was indeed from a 26/33 gallon tank. So ended up going to the local salvage yard and picked up another one from a 33g tank w/ only I think 13k on it and verified the tank was a 33g prior to having it pulled. Did the swap with ease pumped out what fuel I could, left the rest to evaporate for a few days after before I took it to the dump. Compared my originally installed pump to the first used pump I had different p/n but physically both the same. Wasn’t until I ran the p/n off the old evap canister that I realized i had the 26g standard.


0d9019399e7dd9f2efd410c2741e0c1f.jpg
 
It's the 26 for sure. the other fella on here had a picture for comparison. Which makes me happy cause I wanna swap if I'm reading correctly I can save some cash because the fuel pumps are the same.

Did you do it yourself? Did you follow that post from 2021 or did you use another guide if so would you mind sharing? Or would all data be enough to get the idea?


Im pretty sure he was smart and paid the additional few hundred bucks more and had it ordered with the 33 from the factory


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Don’t be like me.. and think that whole 50k miles I put on at the time since new, I had a 23 gallon tank. Turns out from what I gather way down the line after everything at least on my Laramie I had the 26 gallon standard (not listed on the window sticker btw), cost me an additional two fuel pumps after everything but bought those used not new so it was less then $200. Short version bought a 26g pump used w/ 35k off eBay prior to having all parts on hand. Im guessing it was an old OEM factory stock unit p/n was way different from the replacement new 26/33g part numbers that I found and didn’t have another pump to compare it to physically. Wanted to speed the swap up when the time came so I went ahead and installed what new parts I could on the new tank and started second guessing if that pump was indeed from a 26/33 gallon tank. So ended up going to the local salvage yard and picked up another one from a 33g tank w/ only I think 13k on it and verified the tank was a 33g prior to having it pulled. Did the swap with ease pumped out what fuel I could, left the rest to evaporate for a few days after before I took it to the dump. Compared my originally installed pump to the first used pump I had different p/n but physically both the same. Wasn’t until I ran the p/n off the old evap canister that I realized i had the 26g standard.


0d9019399e7dd9f2efd410c2741e0c1f.jpg
So if I'm following you, you wasnt sure/paranoid your original part was not a 26 gallon pump. So you bought an ebay one. Thought that one was also not a 26/33. Then went to a salvage yard n pulled one directly from a 33?

Also is there a part number for that 3rd brace or is the 3rd brace litterally only the skid plate and bracket?
 
So if I'm following you, you wasnt sure/paranoid your original part was not a 26 gallon pump. So you bought an ebay one. Thought that one was also not a 26/33. Then went to a salvage yard n pulled one directly from a 33?

Also is there a part number for that 3rd brace or is the 3rd brace litterally only the skid plate and bracket?

Sorry long paragraphs and it’s late. Correct, I bought the first used pump off Ebay when I was starting to gather parts.. coming from a salvage yard obvious information on the vehicle was limited.. I wanna say a ran the vin to get the build sheet and just like I later found out on my build sheet it didn’t say anything about about it having a 26g tank but possibly the description did and was cheap enough to take the risk and pretty low miles. The part number was completely different from the part numbers I was getting from rockauto/mopar parts online for a brand new 26/33G fuel pump and couldn’t find any accurate pictures of the 23g style pump to try to compare it visually but was still not 100% without having something to compare it to and wanted everything on hand before I bother to drop my existing tank.

I bought the second fuel pump locally from the salvage yard a few days before the swap. Since I was able to run the vin and get the build sheet for it and showed it had the 33 Gal tank option and only had 13-15k miles on it. The tank itself was damaged either from the wreck or transportation so I wasn’t able to physically see it but I sure it was the right one and the part number matched the part number I was getting on Rockauto. So I was 99% sure.


Took a picture and measured the height of the second pump just to compare later on to the first pump I bought originally. Ended up being exact same just different part numbers after it was all said and done.

Did the swap successfully, adjusted for the 33 gallon tank etc. when I went to dispose of my stock tank I looked up the part number on the Evap canister and was for a 26G tank thats when I figured out maybe back in 2020 at least my Laramie came stock with the 26G tank standard (just wasn’t listed on the build sheet like the other additional tank options), as well as the fuel pump comparisons, as well as having the factory skid plates. My thesis… 26g tank. This was also without a lot of the other additional information out there then about the swap.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
ab7f815b13e6205682cf2e4ed0b4aa31.jpg

1fcc2483fb7cb580eb08b8c4839b4b90.jpg


^ thats the third tank strap mount. Some trucks have them there already, some don’t. Thats if you wanna run the 3rd tank fuel strap with the larger 33g tank. My truck didn’t have it but you can make get creative and make one or there’s use to be a member that had a friend that made some but required welding to the body. (Info on that is somewhere in the 33 gallon tank thread I linked in one of my prior post). You would also need the additional strap if you go this route p/n 52030458ab and a nut p/n 06104717aa.


46fb8e5d1ef36d692e02fa1202ffc6dd.jpg



^ If you’re missing the bracket and wanna run the 3rd tank strap you can make your own using some flat stock, some all thead, Riv nut or bolts and mount that bracket on the frame p/n 68418923AC.

I didn’t go this route mainly because I didn’t wanna wait on anymore parts to arrive and once the new tank was mounted it wasn’t budging what so ever just with the originally 2 strap installed. Plus I was also running the larger 33g skid plate so figured if one of the 2 tank straps was going to break the skid plate would catch it.


88dc54ca2f88297bcc32cb85c2cb3223.jpg


^ If you decide to run the 33 gallon skid plate besides some additional metric nuts and bolts that you can find locally most time … there’s a 3rd cross member #22 brace for the skid plate to mount to in the front p/n 68348386AB. I ordered one but it was on backorder for awhile and ended up eventually cancelling it. I will eventually add one again when I find it cheap or somewhere locally. So currently running without one with the skidplate installed for the last 15-20k miles.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Interesting read. What trim and bed configuration is your truck? Did you happen to enter your VIN on the "Equipment Listing" linked earlier in the thread? Curious what that says, if anything,.
 
I'm not trying to be rude,or ignore help. Being told I'm being inaccurate was just false, assumptive, and told me you didn't bother reading what all I said.

Im aware filling the tube to the brim can cause evap system damage. Im also aware these pumps, pump anywhere from 15-30 gallons per minute.

With pressures like that the tube fills before all the air in the tank can escape. Once it shuts off the nozzle fuel slowly drains from the fill tube as the air purges from the tank through the fill tube. The Jerry can nozzles I have, shut off because of that same pressure not allowing the tank to be over filled. The nozzle for the cans in the photo is not the one used for my truck. It's the one used to fill the transfer tank.

So even if the Jerry can would have overfilled the tank by 5-6 gallons. The pump woulda shut off and not allowed that extra 5-6 gallons. That's a lot of fuel. Far to much for the fuel fill tube to hold.

I apologize for being smart. Just wanted to be clear I'm not just guessing at this I have a decent understanding of these systems. Just no clue as to how a 23 gallon tank holds 28-30 gallons of fuel, and am 100% sure it's not because it's over filled. No way can that fill tube hold 5-6 gallons.
Lol. Sure thing man, you are way smarter than anyone else trying to help you out. Obviously way smarter than me. Not sure why you even posted here. I'll go back to trying to keep my colors inside the lines while my mom ties my shoes.

As I said, I was just trying to help out, and didn't want you causing issues with the evap system down the road. But you do you. Good luck in your quest.
 
ab7f815b13e6205682cf2e4ed0b4aa31.jpg

1fcc2483fb7cb580eb08b8c4839b4b90.jpg


^ thats the third tank strap mount. Some trucks have them there already, some don’t. Thats if you wanna run the 3rd tank fuel strap with the larger 33g tank. My truck didn’t have it but you can make get creative and make one or there’s use to be a member that had a friend that made some but required welding to the body. (Info on that is somewhere in the 33 gallon tank thread I linked in one of my prior post). You would also need the additional strap if you go this route p/n 52030458ab and a nut p/n 06104717aa.


46fb8e5d1ef36d692e02fa1202ffc6dd.jpg



^ If you’re missing the bracket and wanna run the 3rd tank strap you can make your own using some flat stock, some all thead, Riv nut or bolts and mount that bracket on the frame p/n 68418923AC.

I didn’t go this route mainly because I didn’t wanna wait on anymore parts to arrive and once the new tank was mounted it wasn’t budging what so ever just with the originally 2 strap installed. Plus I was also running the larger 33g skid plate so figured if one of the 2 tank straps was going to break the skid plate would catch it.


88dc54ca2f88297bcc32cb85c2cb3223.jpg


^ If you decide to run the 33 gallon skid plate besides some additional metric nuts and bolts that you can find locally most time … there’s a 3rd cross member #22 brace for the skid plate to mount to in the front p/n 68348386AB. I ordered one but it was on backorder for awhile and ended up eventually cancelling it. I will eventually add one again when I find it cheap or somewhere locally. So currently running without one with the skidplate installed for the last 15-20k miles.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Well I don't got that 3rd one. I wonder if I just do that skid plate cross member if I can just put a chunk of something to fill in the gap. Seems plausible right? I'm not much of a welder. Adding the entire skid plate will make the cost go up to 1500$

I figure if I do that cross member I can bolt something, maybe a piece of square steel to the top of it.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top