I figured I’d make this post to help out anybody considering running 37 inch tires. Here’s answers to some of the questions I had before I bit the bullet and did it. I had a 4” BDS lift and 35” Toyo RTs and I recently added Bilstein 5100s set at level 5 (1.7 inches) so I could fit 37s. My 4” kit netted me 4.75” lift and the Bilsteins gave me 1.7”, so I’m at 6.5” of lift. 6.5” is actually what most of the 6” kits get you, so I’m at the same height as normal trucks with the 6” kit. Sidenote: the BDS 6” and 4” kits are identical in the front besides the size of the spacer, which is why I added Bilsteins instead of getting the bigger spacer. The angles on the kit are better at 4” but still perfectly fine at 6”.
Again, I’m talking with regards to my BDS kit - I can’t say for certain it applies to other kits (even though I definitely think it will).
Q1: What size lift do I need to run 37s?
A: A true 6 inch minimum for -24 offset. I wanted to squeeze them on my 4” lift but there’s no way they would fit. Yes you will have to cut metal but you don’t have to cut the bumper or the actual cab, only the pinch weld. My truck does not rub even when I hit bumps, except in reverse. All I have to do is heat up the plastic and push it back an inch though.
Q2: Does the truck handle the 37s ok?
A: Yes I think it does. I have 3.92 gears and I feel like my gearing is still perfectly normal, I have plenty of power, and the truck doesn’t feel stressed. That being said, I will say that my brakes take a little longer to stop the truck now and I certainly do feel the extra weight of the tires while driving. I’m already used to it, but it is noticeable. Going from stock to 35s I noticed no difference at all. Going from 35s to 37s is a big jump though. Granted the Toyo MTs are super heavy at 85lbs each, so I’m sure with a lighter 37 you won’t experience this as extreme as I did.
Q3: How is the MPG?
A: It sounds crazy, but I’m getting the same MPG as before. My work commute is 28 miles round trip, 100% city and tons of stop lights (in SoCal) and with 35s I got 14mpg when I was easy on the gas pedal and now I’m getting 14mpg with 37s too. It blew my mind and it doesn’t make sense, but so far the numbers haven’t lied. This is hand calculated. On the truck with 35s it said 13, now it says 12.3 but the 35s were 8% off and the 37s are 15% off.
Q4: Do 37s ride better than 35s?
A: I thought they would since there’s more rubber and therefore cushion, but I’ve noticed hardly any difference. This could be because it’s the MT also. Maybe if I would have done the RT (like my 35s) it would have been a more apples to apples comparison.
Q5: How tall is the truck?
A: Well it’s kind of tricky to say right now because I currently only have a 2” lift in the rear. I have the BDS 3” rear kit in my garage and need to install it still. Once I do that, the front will be at 6.5” lift while the rear is at 3”, which actually means the front will be exactly 1.6” taller than the rear. Being from SoCal I prefer to be just a little nose-high like the desert trucks lol.
From the ground to the top of the wheel well in the front is 45.4” tall. Stock for my truck was 36.5” so I’ve gone up 9 inches. Once the 3” lift is on in the rear, the wheel well will be 43.8” in the rear. It started at 39.1” stock, so I’ve gone up 4.7”.
Q6: Are 37s worth it?
A: It totally depends on what you value. If you value the looks of the truck a lot then yes 100% they are worth it. I think 37s fit the truck so well and just look so much better than 35s. However, if you constantly haul heavy stuff, take long trips, tow heavy stuff or actually go off road more than just dirt roads, then 35s are the way to go (even though it doesn’t look as cool haha).
One last thing: My 35” Toyo RTs were SILENT. These 37” Toyo MTs are LOUD compared to them. I think the MTs look way cooler, but I do miss how quiet the RTs were.
Let me know in the replies if you have any other questions. I’m happy to help because I know how nerve racking it is making big decisions like this with unanswered questions.
Again, I’m talking with regards to my BDS kit - I can’t say for certain it applies to other kits (even though I definitely think it will).
Q1: What size lift do I need to run 37s?
A: A true 6 inch minimum for -24 offset. I wanted to squeeze them on my 4” lift but there’s no way they would fit. Yes you will have to cut metal but you don’t have to cut the bumper or the actual cab, only the pinch weld. My truck does not rub even when I hit bumps, except in reverse. All I have to do is heat up the plastic and push it back an inch though.
Q2: Does the truck handle the 37s ok?
A: Yes I think it does. I have 3.92 gears and I feel like my gearing is still perfectly normal, I have plenty of power, and the truck doesn’t feel stressed. That being said, I will say that my brakes take a little longer to stop the truck now and I certainly do feel the extra weight of the tires while driving. I’m already used to it, but it is noticeable. Going from stock to 35s I noticed no difference at all. Going from 35s to 37s is a big jump though. Granted the Toyo MTs are super heavy at 85lbs each, so I’m sure with a lighter 37 you won’t experience this as extreme as I did.
Q3: How is the MPG?
A: It sounds crazy, but I’m getting the same MPG as before. My work commute is 28 miles round trip, 100% city and tons of stop lights (in SoCal) and with 35s I got 14mpg when I was easy on the gas pedal and now I’m getting 14mpg with 37s too. It blew my mind and it doesn’t make sense, but so far the numbers haven’t lied. This is hand calculated. On the truck with 35s it said 13, now it says 12.3 but the 35s were 8% off and the 37s are 15% off.
Q4: Do 37s ride better than 35s?
A: I thought they would since there’s more rubber and therefore cushion, but I’ve noticed hardly any difference. This could be because it’s the MT also. Maybe if I would have done the RT (like my 35s) it would have been a more apples to apples comparison.
Q5: How tall is the truck?
A: Well it’s kind of tricky to say right now because I currently only have a 2” lift in the rear. I have the BDS 3” rear kit in my garage and need to install it still. Once I do that, the front will be at 6.5” lift while the rear is at 3”, which actually means the front will be exactly 1.6” taller than the rear. Being from SoCal I prefer to be just a little nose-high like the desert trucks lol.
From the ground to the top of the wheel well in the front is 45.4” tall. Stock for my truck was 36.5” so I’ve gone up 9 inches. Once the 3” lift is on in the rear, the wheel well will be 43.8” in the rear. It started at 39.1” stock, so I’ve gone up 4.7”.
Q6: Are 37s worth it?
A: It totally depends on what you value. If you value the looks of the truck a lot then yes 100% they are worth it. I think 37s fit the truck so well and just look so much better than 35s. However, if you constantly haul heavy stuff, take long trips, tow heavy stuff or actually go off road more than just dirt roads, then 35s are the way to go (even though it doesn’t look as cool haha).
One last thing: My 35” Toyo RTs were SILENT. These 37” Toyo MTs are LOUD compared to them. I think the MTs look way cooler, but I do miss how quiet the RTs were.
Let me know in the replies if you have any other questions. I’m happy to help because I know how nerve racking it is making big decisions like this with unanswered questions.
