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Engine Break In

1. What information?
2. Does any other manufacturer?
3. Why would you need a "break-in" brochure PRIOR to purchasing ANY vehicle?
1. What Information: Pg 293 2019 Ram 1500 Owner's Manual
ENGINE BREAK-IN RECOMMENDATIONS
A long break-in period is not required for the engine and
drivetrain (transmission and axle) in your vehicle.
Drive moderately during the first 300 miles (500 km). After
the initial 60 miles (100 km), speeds up to 50 or 55 mph (80
or 90 km/h) are desirable.
While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration within the
limits of local traffic laws contributes to a good break-in.
Wide-open throttle acceleration in low gear can be detrimental
and should be avoided.
The engine oil installed in the engine at the factory is a
high-quality energy conserving type lubricant. Oil changes
should be consistent with anticipated climate conditions
under which vehicle operations will occur. For the recommended
viscosity and quality grades, refer to “Fluids And
Lubricants” in “Technical Specifications”.

2. Do other manufacturers: Yes, My 1985 Toyota Corolla had a break in period, 1994 Ford Explorer, manual pg 15., "2001 Dodge Ram Truck" manual pg. 39, 2006 Honda Accord pg 153, 1980 Kawasaki LTD 650 manual pg. 38, BMW MCs: 2003 BMW R1200RT, 2004 BMW K1200GT, 2016 BMW K1300S all had beak in periods.

3. Don't need a brochure, just "There is no "paper" that comes with the vehicle, e.g. (for example): a sticker or a pamphlet to inform you of the break in."

Break-in period is similar to "When do you do your first oil change". Opinions vary. I do my best to follow manufacture's recommendations and read the manual. Most vehicles are ordered to my specs and that gives me time prior to dealer delivery if I have access to the information.
 
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I don't consider having a nice looking clean vehicle most of the time a waste of money. If you like sitting in filth and not caring about a new truck looking good maybe you shouldn't have bought it. Just my opinion but I do like having a clean good looking vehicle that's not all nasty looking. It's not a waste of money or time. You wash your clothes and body don't you? I hope. Back to breaking in an engine or not going through any break in, it may be personal preference and peace of mind but I have seen actual results from it that prove something good is happening and there are benefits. But as mentioned it won't necessarily make your engine last longer maybe just perform a little better in the mean time. That's what I've seen and I told that story earlier in this thread and another.

The problem with your example (yes I wash myself) is that you picked the example based on your bias; let me do the same thing: spending all that time and effort on something that is obviously not required (we have past history of hemi's and high mileage), is like spending your time and effort re-arranging the gravel in your driveway. If you're OCD and need to do it, knock yourself out it, but it has no purpose or value in and of itself. :)

If it performs better, then I need to see scientific evidence and test, not just vague hand waving. I'd love to have my mind changed on it, but so far I haven't seen any proof.
 
That's fair and I get needing proof to make it worth while. I have seen proof and mentioned it earlier. Maybe it was in my other thread. Anyway it was a few years ago when a friend and I had the same exact truck down to every option and I went through my break in method while he just drove his like normal from the beginning and waited to change the oil. I got better fuel economy, my truck was more responsive, made more power on the Dyno and everytime he drove mine he always commented on how much "better" mine drove and felt. Between that and having some race engines I've own broke in by the professional builders I'm just stick on it. They followed the same method I do.
 
"After
the initial 60 miles (100 km), speeds up to 50 or 55 mph (80
or 90 km/h) are desirable."
- so stay off the interstate until 60 miles?

"While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration within the
limits of local traffic laws contributes to a good break-in. "

So this means drive about 50mph and then floor it to 80 a few times?
 
"After
the initial 60 miles (100 km), speeds up to 50 or 55 mph (80
or 90 km/h) are desirable."
- so stay off the interstate until 60 miles?

"While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration within the
limits of local traffic laws contributes to a good break-in. "

So this means drive about 50mph and then floor it to 80 a few times?

More like 35 mph to 60 mph or so. If you set the current gear indicator setting in the dash, you will notice that the truck shifts quite early, you will be in 4-6 gear by 35 mph. It will drop a gear or two as you floor it, just do it for a second or two, should get you around 60 mph or so.
 
While I do agree to follow the manual, if the manufacturer really thought it would matter they would have put safeguards or governors in place to restrict performance/rpms/etc until either temp warms ups or mileage achieved.

I don't think either are on these trucks so I doubt it makes much difference.
 
While I do agree to follow the manual, if the manufacturer really thought it would matter they would have put safeguards or governors in place to restrict performance/rpms/etc until either temp warms ups or mileage achieved.

I don't think either are on these trucks so I doubt it makes much difference.

That was thought up in the past, but the liability is too high, such as needing power in an emergency to avoid an accident or whatever. They only can limit top speed, not prevent use of full capabilities even when immediately started.
 
That was thought up in the past, but the liability is too high, such as needing power in an emergency to avoid an accident or whatever. They only can limit top speed, not prevent use of full capabilities even when immediately started.

Other manufacturers do it...guess they are willing to take the legal hits.
 
Other manufacturers do it...guess they are willing to take the legal hits.

Can you give me an example of a vehicle that prevents you from using full power right from the start because of a cold engine? I have never heard or seen this before.

BMW M-series cars for example have graphic on the tach that shows a recommendation of maximum rpms as the vehicle warmed up, but it didn't prevent you from going beyond it, just recommended it.

Then there are valet keys that cut full power from being used, but those don't have anything to do with limits prior to engine warm up.
 
Can you give me an example of a vehicle that prevents you from using full power right from the start because of a cold engine? I have never heard or seen this before.

BMW M-series cars for example have graphic on the tach that shows a recommendation of maximum rpms as the vehicle warmed up, but it didn't prevent you from going beyond it, just recommended it.

Then there are valet keys that cut full power from being used, but those don't have anything to do with limits prior to engine warm up.
My Honda S2000 limits you form running the high cam while the engine is cold but this usually takes care of itself pretty quickly. I think that in the 13 years i have owned it i have only hit that cold limiter a handful of times.
 
google Mototuneusa break in.

You realize honda, ducati, etc. high performance motorcycles builds their engines, fills them up, and goes LITERALLY WFO on the dyno IMMEDIATELY several times within seconds of it starting the first time. Full throttle is good for ring break in, although I admit most break in is probably done in the first 5 minutes or less of an engines life and nothing much after that.
 
Personally I'm pretty conservative for the first few hundred miles. But after I do that first oil change and add synthetic then it's balls to the wall.
 
I've toured one vehicle manufacturer in the past, and for some reason, I enjoy watching manufacturing video's on youtube, in particular, engine manufacturing. Someone pointed out that the engines are run in at the factory, which seems to be true, likely for all manufacturers as a way to ensure the engines are holding compression before they are left. There's really, from my observation, two ways they do this:

1) Cold run in on an engine that is NOT installed in the vehicle. In this manner, the engine is put into a device, and run without spark plugs to ensure proper running after the build process. My guess is that they are run in on with a continuous, non-looping oil system. However, I cannot confirm this. As we all know, no real heat is generated, and probably true, that the rings are not fully seated at this time.

2) A hot run-in with the vehicle on a dyno is performed as it's leaving the line to confirm proper running. While I see this for some manufactures, in other videos we've all have likely seen at one point or another the vehicle is driven off the line, and likely around a small track, and eventually parked. For sure, and either way, the rings are starting to seat by this time.

However, my methods have changed over the years where I followed manufacturer methods to break in engines. Remember reading how ginger you had to be if you followed the directions in the past? After many years and many vehicles, I learned "Run them as you stole them". My research and what I believe that running in an engine hard, allows the actual rings to form a tight seal with the cylinder walls and thus leads to a healthy, and long-standing engine with no blow-by. Furthermore, I love running the vehicles up and down hills, and what's more important about that, is I absolutely LOAD up the deceleration braking, or engine braking on as I'm coming downhills by limiting the gear the vehicle wants to be in (ie the highest). Engine braking in this manner, with no load (fuel/air/accelerator being applied), causes the rings to push against the cylinder walls, and thus creating that bond.

Again, just my 2 cents, but this has worked for me for years. I certainly won't baby the engine, new or not. I can tell you I've also never had any engine issues on any of my vehicles for the last 25+ years now.
 
"Wide-open throttle acceleration in low gear can be detrimental
and should be avoided. "

Ha! When these things come off the line and are driven to the parking lot then to the rail yard to be loaded, you don't know how they are driven.
 
Break in concerns on a production engine are overkill. By the time a truck makes it to you at the dealership, it's normally been run, idled, and launched a time or two. Between the lot monkeys and the test drivers, you're not getting a pristine engine to start with. I drive mine pretty hard from day 1 and haven't sold/traded a vehicle with less than 150,000 miles on it in years and have never had a single engine issue.
 
Sorry to open this up again after being dormant for so long, but I guess I need to get some answers to some of my concerns. First off, I have never purchased a truck new and was unaware of a break in period. Secondly, my dealership apparently isn't stressing that either as my salesman told me to floor this brand new truck to feel the Hemi (comparing to the 2015 Ecoboost I traded for this). And thirdly, I have been driving the truck now for almost two months, but have yet to reach 300 miles. Of those miles I have done nearly 95% city driving, as well as from the stop hard accelerations. So all that said, should I be concerned I messed something up with this new truck? Also, my dealership service manager did not mention anything about an after break in period oil change. He said the light would let me know. How should I proceed? Other than much worse gas mileage than I was expecting, I have not had any odd sounds or performance issues.
 
Sorry to open this up again after being dormant for so long, but I guess I need to get some answers to some of my concerns. First off, I have never purchased a truck new and was unaware of a break in period. Secondly, my dealership apparently isn't stressing that either as my salesman told me to floor this brand new truck to feel the Hemi (comparing to the 2015 Ecoboost I traded for this). And thirdly, I have been driving the truck now for almost two months, but have yet to reach 300 miles. Of those miles I have done nearly 95% city driving, as well as from the stop hard accelerations. So all that said, should I be concerned I messed something up with this new truck? Also, my dealership service manager did not mention anything about an after break in period oil change. He said the light would let me know. How should I proceed? Other than much worse gas mileage than I was expecting, I have not had any odd sounds or performance issues.

I wouldn't stress over anything. Keep in mind that 95% of the break-in (meaning rings sealing against cylinder walls) is done during a "cold run" of an engine during the manufacturing process where it's completely lubricated and allowed to run with the crank being turned via and external force. This ensures a good build of the engine, beyond that, allows for the initial ring-to-cylinder sealing process. Later the engine is run again in a machine where it's run "hot", meaning its first real firing of spark plugs, etc. By the time you get the truck, everything is pretty much done.

For what it's worth, I've noticed over the past 35 years of buying new cars that the mfg/dealers seem less, and less concerned about the break-in process. Engineering has come a long way, so has product quality. That said, I'm still of the old opinion during any break-in process that you should "run it like you stole it". My belief is that an engine broken in hard will be a strong engine. But again, probably doesn't matter much these days. Just drive and enjoy your new vehicle.
 
FWIW my agency issues vehicles to each officer individually. When it's time to get a new one you go to the headquarters garage in Indianapolis, turn in your old one and leave in a new one. Virtually every new vehicle, including the Hemi equipped Chargers, that leaves the garage is on an interstate within minutes on its way back to the officers home district somewhere in the state. Unless the officer is coming up on days off the Chargers are on the road and working the next day. First oil change is done at 2,500 miles, second one at 5,000 and then every 5,000 after. No formal break-in, they're just driven "normally" from day one.
 
FWIW my agency issues vehicles to each officer individually. When it's time to get a new one you go to the headquarters garage in Indianapolis, turn in your old one and leave in a new one. Virtually every new vehicle, including the Hemi equipped Chargers, that leaves the garage is on an interstate within minutes on its way back to the officers home district somewhere in the state. Unless the officer is coming up on days off the Chargers are on the road and working the next day. First oil change is done at 2,500 miles, second one at 5,000 and then every 5,000 after. No formal break-in, they're just driven "normally" from day one.
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Just curious, how have the Chargers been doing for your department?
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I wouldn't stress over anything. Keep in mind that 95% of the break-in (meaning rings sealing against cylinder walls) is done during a "cold run" of an engine during the manufacturing process where it's completely lubricated and allowed to run with the crank being turned via and external force. This ensures a good build of the engine, beyond that, allows for the initial ring-to-cylinder sealing process. Later the engine is run again in a machine where it's run "hot", meaning its first real firing of spark plugs, etc. By the time you get the truck, everything is pretty much done.

For what it's worth, I've noticed over the past 35 years of buying new cars that the mfg/dealers seem less, and less concerned about the break-in process. Engineering has come a long way, so has product quality. That said, I'm still of the old opinion during any break-in process that you should "run it like you stole it". My belief is that an engine broken in hard will be a strong engine. But again, probably doesn't matter much these days. Just drive and enjoy your new vehicle.
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No experience of my own, but a number of new diesel pickup owners have stated that it takes around 5,000 miles for their engines to "break in" to the point that fuel economy begins to improve. And I'm not sure that I would "run it like you stole it" for a brand-new diesel engine. Maybe VernDiesel will chime in on that point, he got 360,000 miles on his Ecodiesel, knows all of the solid, practical tips.
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