Dealer Quote for Brakes is $2K - Thinking to do it myself

[Cbty2050]

Do you know that no one replaces caliber bolts when they do break jobs unless they are damaged. Re-grease them and shove them back in the boots.
You also work at a dealership so you can access those documents easy and for free, the rest of us need to search because the dealerships\manufactures hold all the information hostage.
Searching for these on the internet gives you a ton of conflicting information
55 ft/lbs not 32 but still nowhere close to 250 psi...

When I do a BRAKE job, its done correctly unlike some people.

I have no problems sharing information on repair information(as I have shared with you, remember that battery). I rather see people be successful, informed and do it correctly vs not and putting peoples lives in danger.

 

[Darksteel165]

When I do a BRAKE job, its done correctly unlike some people.

I have no problems sharing information on repair information(as I have shared with you, remember that battery). I rather see people be successful, informed and do it correctly vs not and putting peoples lives in danger.

That's all good, unfortunately most people at the dealerships are not like that.
You and a few others here have no problem looking things up with resources the rest of us are not allowed access to, unfortunately that is a minority of truck owners that are on this forum to ask you or something else with the OEM information.

I'm also sticking with not replacing the caliber slide bolts unless they are damaged. More likely to need a new boot because it ripped then the pin imo.

 

[OldMarine]

To add to that, most pneumatic air tools are designed for 90psi (used to always be 93psi) operating pressure, and the cfm of the air compressor is what would have to be properly matched to get the full torque over a long enough time to break loose a bolt that requires high torque (called @load). This hold true even for my IR 1” drive impact gun, which is (@load) 47cfm @ 90psi with a 3/4” hose.

people still use air?

 

[Cbty2050]

I'm also sticking with not replacing the caliber slide bolts unless they are damaged. More likely to need a new boot because it ripped then the pin imo.

This isn't the slide bolt, it is the bolt that secures the adapter to knuckle. The caliper bolts to the adapter, the adapter has the slide pins.

 

[Mountain Whiskey]

Replace the slide bolts? Whew, that's a good one!

Yea, because they are so stretched and abused. Factory will nickel and dime you to death. Put some antisize on there and put it back. Crank it tight with your ratchet and be done.

Who actually replaces the slide bolt?

 

[Cbty2050]

Yea, because they are so stretched and abused.

Who actually replaces the slide bolt?

It's not the caliper slide bolts the factory wants replaced. It is the adapter bolts that are torque-to-yield. Yes alot of people reuse them and never have issues.

 

[beetlespin]

My neighbor did his own brakes. Took him two days and a lot of swearing, sweat and banging. Seems like the back rotors put up a good fight but finally came off.

I had my last brake job done by a dealer (Ford F-150). On the way home truck started to shutter like crazy. They had the parking break set too tight.

Not sure what I'll do when it comes time for the Ram to get new brakes.

 

[djevox]

It's not the caliper slide bolts the factory wants replaced. It is the adapter bolts that are torque-to-yield. Yes alot of people reuse them and never have issues.

I was at a Mercedes training that focused on the s65 AMG and asked that question. I was given the same answer and it always stuck in the back of my mind that they should be replaced.

 

[Cbty2050]

My neighbor did his own brakes. Took him two days and a lot of swearing, sweat and banging. Seems like the back rotors put up a good fight but finally came off.

I had my last brake job done by a dealer (Ford F-150). On the way home truck started to shutter like crazy. They had the parking break set too tight.

Not sure what I'll do when it comes time for the Ram to get new brakes.

Good news, the rear brake set up on the Ram trucks are different than the F150, shouldn't be a problem.

 

[Bt10]

Yeah, I've got a pretty significant braking shimmy now, which I'm not surprised by since the truck has 130K miles and I drive pretty fast. It might be possible to machine them, but my approach was to replace.

For all the cars I own, I buy new rotors when actually necessary for the brake job, and after, when convenient, turn the first set and coat with preservative and place them on the car parts shelf in my garage. I keep my cars from new (undercoated) to the junkyard with over 250k miles, usually killed by rust from the yearly Michigan salt bath. I probably have to toss a set in that time frame and replace.