Dealer Quote for Brakes is $2K - Thinking to do it myself

[SD Rebel]

as long as the rotors are still withing spec AFTER they get cut...you should be good for a long time. A tip for getting more life out of a rotor...if you do a moderate-hard stop, like coming off a highway exit, where you go from say 80 down to a full stop, when you come to the stop, let your foot off the brake a bit so the truck can roll forward a foot. This wil help prevent warping from a hot spot.

That's a good tip, it's something I remember tracking my Integra, we were always told if we had to stop hot (no cool down lap), leave the foot off the brake to prevent warping.

 

[djevox]

as long as the rotors are still withing spec AFTER they get cut...you should be good for a long time. A tip for getting more life out of a rotor...if you do a moderate-hard stop, like coming off a highway exit, where you go from say 80 down to a full stop, when you come to the stop, let your foot off the brake a bit so the truck can roll forward a foot. This wil help prevent warping from a hot spot.

I do the roll forward, and thought it was a lost art based on how people look at me when I mention it.

A note in general (not directed to OldMarine) about rotors and machining: A good shop will want to turn (machine) new rotors when putting them on a vehicle. This is because new rotors are manufactured and promptly stacked in a pile in a warehouse (or shipped to another place and stacked in another pile) where they eventually warp. To completely ensure there is no brake pulsation, even new rotors SHOULD be machined. Do I install them sometimes without machining? Yes, and I just did it on my wife's car last month because I was too lazy to drive an hour to the shop to have them machined. However, I do feel lucky each time I don't machine a new rotor and it doesn't pulsate.

 

[c3k]

Thanks for the encouragement - I'm with you guys. This is the second time I've had a quote from Key Chrysler in Xenia OH that seemed exorbitant. This is also coincidentally the second local dealer I've worked with since owning the truck - the first (Dave Dennis Chrysler in Dayton OH) had super aggressive and frankly poor customer service practices, which I'm usually not even picky about. This is my first Ram or Chrysler product, and I love the truck but my local dealers are not good in my experience so far.

I'll just do it myself. I was going to use Mopar parts, though on Rock Auto they are at least 30% dearer for rotors and Mopar pads are nearly 2x. I liked the OEM stuff, as it lasted a long time (my truck has 130K now) but do you guys think it's work it? Total is already $700 before shipping in my Rockauto cart, and that's without the front pad kit, which Rockauto doesn't seem to have the OEM version of.

The PowerStop z36 kit is what I used on a 2007 1500. Perfect swap. Very easy, very good brake kit.

OEM is fine. If that's what you're more comfortable doing, then use them.

Me? When this Ram needs brakes, I'm going to use PowerStop rotors and pads. (Hell, I may even buy them now, since I don't think prices will drop.

 

[Cbty2050]

I do the roll forward, and thought it was a lost art based on how people look at me when I mention it.

A note in general (not directed to OldMarine) about rotors and machining: A good shop will want to turn (machine) new rotors when putting them on a vehicle. This is because new rotors are manufactured and promptly stacked in a pile in a warehouse (or shipped to another place and stacked in another pile) where they eventually warp. To completely ensure there is no brake pulsation, even new rotors SHOULD be machined. Do I install them sometimes without machining? Yes, and I just did it on my wife's car last month because I was too lazy to drive an hour to the shop to have them machined. However, I do feel lucky each time I don't machine a new rotor and it doesn't pulsate.

You might be the only person that buys new rotors just to machine them. Purchase a dial indicator and measure runout.

 

[6of36]

You might be the only person that buys new rotors just to machine them. Purchase a dial indicator and measure runout.

He's not totally wrong. I used to be a mechanic, and have done thousands of brake jobs. I have seen many brand new rotor warped from improper storage at the auto parts stores. When I had access to a brake lathe, I would cut a couple thousandths off new rotors to be sure, and to clean off the coating.

 

[Cbty2050]

He's not totally wrong. I used to be a mechanic, and have done thousands of brake jobs. I have seen many brand new rotor warped from improper storage at the auto parts stores. When I had access to a brake lathe, I would cut a couple thousandths off new rotors to be sure, and to clean off the coating.

I stand by my statement, purchase a dial indicator. You would have know right away if the rotor was warped or not.
Cutting a new rotor and then selling it to a customer, did you let the customer know you sold them a rotor that is under new specs? Who pays for that turning or the rotor when you used to be a mechanic?

 

[dn325ci]

are you sure you need rotors?

Yeah, I've got a pretty significant braking shimmy now, which I'm not surprised by since the truck has 130K miles and I drive pretty fast. It might be possible to machine them, but my approach was to replace.

 

[djevox]

You might be the only person that buys new rotors just to machine them. Purchase a dial indicator and measure runout.

Definitely not, but everyone's free to do their own thing.

 

[scottmoyer]

Are our brakes really a DIY thing? The reason I ask is when my truck was new, I had the front brake clip rattle. I struggled to remove the bolts that hold the caliper on on the driver side. I needed a breaker bar with an extension for every turn of the bolts. I was hoping that after they came out, it would be fairly easy to reinstall, but no, I needed a breaker bar to install also. I thought I was going to snap the bolts the amount of torque they took just to tighten.

I asked the dealer service guy about this and he said that FCA/Stellantis overdoes the locktite on some vehicles and a 250 psi impact to take off and put back on. I will be replacing the bolts on mine when I do it and I will also tap the holes to clean them for an easier install.

 

[Darksteel165]

Are our brakes really a DIY thing? The reason I ask is when my truck was new, I had the front brake clip rattle. I struggled to remove the bolts that hold the caliper on on the driver side. I needed a breaker bar with an extension for every turn of the bolts. I was hoping that after they came out, it would be fairly easy to reinstall, but no, I needed a breaker bar to install also. I thought I was going to snap the bolts the amount of torque they took just to tighten.

I asked the dealer service guy about this and he said that FCA/Stellantis overdoes the locktite on some vehicles and a 250 psi impact to take off and put back on. I will be replacing the bolts on mine when I do it and I will also tap the holes to clean them for an easier install.

Depends on what you mean by DIY I guess.
My mid torque Impact wrench does 650 ft-lbs and i'm not a mechanic.

I am curious what impact they use that does 36,000 foot pounds... I think you mean 250 foot pounds, which is still way more then the caliper bolts are torqued. To put it in perspective that is more then twice what the wheels are torqued to.

You also said you needed a breakar bar to install them, which should never happen.

Sounds like the bolt got cross threaded and ruined and you put it back on but the damage was done.
If you need a breaker bar to install a bolt, you are doing something wrong and stop, step back, and evaluate what\why you are doing.

 

[6of36]

I stand by my statement, purchase a dial indicator. You would have know right away if the rotor was warped or not.
Cutting a new rotor and then selling it to a customer, did you let the customer know you sold them a rotor that is under new specs? Who pays for that turning or the rotor when you used to be a mechanic?

I'm talking 2 thousandths. I don't know what specs are these days, but back then you could cut 60 to 80 thousandths to minimum cut, and discard was like another 20 thousandths. Rotors at least back then were good for at least 4 or more brake jobs, if they didn't wear them to the rivets. I was turning them myself.

 

[PurpleRT]

Yep they’re still a diy but anybody that is doing themselves should have a least a breaker bar, basic toolset (ratchet, wrenches etc)impact always helps but not necessary I personally wouldn’t impact anything dealing with the brake system it’s just not necessary. Some blue locktite just don’t over do it only takes a tiny amount on the bolts when you reinstall.


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[OldMarine]

believe you wanted to say "wouldn't impact"? Cause I sure wouldn't impact on brake caliper bolts.

would impact

 

[PurpleRT]

believe you wanted to say "wouldn't impact"? Cause I sure wouldn't impact on brake caliper bolts.

Correct


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[Darksteel165]

Yep they’re still a diy but anybody that is doing themselves should have a least a breaker bar, basic toolset (ratchet, wrenches etc)impact always helps but not necessary I personally wouldn’t impact anything dealing with the brake system it’s just not necessary. Some blue locktite just don’t over do it only takes a tiny amount on the bolts when you reinstall.

To be clear I was only saying to use an impact to remove them, and only in response to the person above who claims they got fastened with a "250 psi impact".
They are only suppose to be torqued to 32 ft-lbs which is regular ratchet territory not even breaker bar.

If you are concerned about using a torque wrench to remove them you can also use a flare nut wrench crows foot with an extension and breaker bar (so you don't need to go under your truck to move the bar).

 

[Cbty2050]

They are only suppose to be torqued to 32 ft-lbs which is regular ratchet territory not even breaker bar.

Where do you get this information from?

 

[Darksteel165]

Where do you get this information from?

Just a quick Google search. I know it isn't "250 psi" and you wouldn't need a 250 ft/lbs torque wrench to screw then back in.
The actual spec might be different, I think 32 is a little low for the caliper guide bolts. I believe generally they are around 80 ft/lbs on other vehicles.

 

[djevox]

Just a quick Google search. I know it isn't "250 psi" and you wouldn't need a 250 ft/lbs torque wrench to screw then back in.
The actual spec might be different, I think 32 is a little low for the caliper guide bolts. I believe generally they are around 80 ft/lbs on other vehicles.

To add to that, most pneumatic air tools are designed for 90psi (used to always be 93psi) operating pressure, and the cfm of the air compressor is what would have to be properly matched to get the full torque over a long enough time to break loose a bolt that requires high torque (called @load). This hold true even for my IR 1” drive impact gun, which is (@load) 47cfm @ 90psi with a 3/4” hose.

 

[Cbty2050]

Just a quick Google search. I know it isn't "250 psi" and you wouldn't need a 250 ft/lbs torque wrench to screw then back in.
The actual spec might be different, I think 32 is a little low for the caliper guide bolts. I believe generally they are around 80 ft/lbs on other vehicles.

Do you know that the caliper adapter bolts are to be replaced after they are removed? I like to back up my information.

 

[Darksteel165]

Do you know that the caliper adapter bolts are to be replaced after they are removed? I like to back up my information.

Do you know that no one replaces caliber bolts when they do break jobs unless they are damaged. Re-grease them and shove them back in the boots.
You also work at a dealership so you can access those documents easy and for free, the rest of us need to search because the dealerships\manufactures hold all the information hostage.
Searching for these on the internet gives you a ton of conflicting information
55 ft/lbs not 32 but still nowhere close to 250 psi...