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Date with Finance Department

RAMEN

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Settled on a dealership and the truck I want - great deal here with 0% for 84 months plus they are throwing a hard tonneau cover and a tint to match the back windows.

Most likely tomorrow I will be stopping by the dealership to sign+deposit and thereafter will have a rendez-vous with their finance department.

Please let me know what should I take if anything and what's the best way to prepare/handle their oncoming load of upselling.

Thank you!
 
Settled on a dealership and the truck I want - great deal here with 0% for 84 months plus they are throwing a hard tonneau cover and a tint to match the back windows.

Most likely tomorrow I will be stopping by the dealership to sign+deposit and thereafter will have a rendez-vous with their finance department.

Please let me know what should I take if anything and what's the best way to prepare/handle their oncoming load of upselling.

Thank you!
When they try and give you the add ones don’t except nothing.. doesn’t matter what, if they say they are already part of it tell them.. nitro filled tires? For what’s I’m gonna air down when I go off roading, paint protection*? for what my trucks gonna get scratched off roading, gps security? For what it comes standard with UConnent the first year and or you don’t plan on using it.. anything else tell them you don’t need none of that and if it comes up that you do after you’ll be in contact
 
Depends on how long you plan on keeping the truck and how much equity you have. If doing 0% and nothing down, definitely get GAP, would suck if the truck was stolen or totaled in the next 5 years, insurance only pays market value, doesn’t pay the loan. Also you should get a service contract, they are negotiable and cheaper to get at time of sale, they usually go up in price over the years.
 
When they try and give you the add ones don’t except nothing.. doesn’t matter what, if they say they are already part of it tell them.. nitro filled tires? For what’s I’m gonna air down when I go off roading, paint protection*? for what my trucks gonna get scratched off roading, gps security? For what it comes standard with UConnent the first year and or you don’t plan on using it.. anything else tell them you don’t need none of that and if it comes up that you do after you’ll be in contact
I agree, the add-on phase is worse than negotiating the price for the vehicle. They can be relentless w/the typically sale’s tactics. You’ll be offered interior protection, exterior protection, extended warranties, payment protection, etc. If you do have any interest in anything , then wait until the absolute end of their sales pitch as the prices will ultimately end up at their cost... supposedly.
 
When they try and give you the add ones don’t except nothing.. doesn’t matter what, if they say they are already part of it tell them.. nitro filled tires? For what’s I’m gonna air down when I go off roading, paint protection*? for what my trucks gonna get scratched off roading, gps security? For what it comes standard with UConnent the first year and or you don’t plan on using it.. anything else tell them you don’t need none of that and if it comes up that you do after you’ll be in contact
Alejandro is absolutely correct. The only things you need to pay are a "small" document processing fee (depending one your state, which some have limited fees that can be charged) and tax/licensing. Everything else is an upsell. . . Acid Rain protection, undercoating, dealer prep like coat and wax (no matter what they call it), etc. Small document fee, tax, title, licensing. That's it. Anything else they put on it is a dealer addition to increase profits.

Importantly, which I have learned over my many purchases, you will not get the best deal you are looking for unless you are "willing" to walk away. When you get close to the finish line it becomes a game of chicken with dealers (most anyway). You have to be willing to get up and walk away. If you are not, you will not get the best deal you can get, so just understand that if you are emotionally invested in this purchase, you may pay more than you could, but that is ok as long as that is what you are willing to do and can accept it.

EDIT-- Also, do not fall for the full factory wrap warranty costing $4k. Go here and get the same protection for $1,500 (depending on your model and equipment). Use the promo code PAYINFULL.


Good luck Ramen. (y)

Post pics when you get your new Ram.
 
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just tell the sales person ahead of time that if they try to sell you any extra bs you will walk.
the dealers i deal with know me know and know they have 2 pencils max and not to upsell me. also because im ocd with my detailing they also know not to wash/recon the vehicles.
signed on my BTS yesterday and all i got was your all set with warranties and do not clean it right?
 
The only thing I would get if they offer it, is the windshield insurance if you live somewhere where you may get your glass chipped often. I just got a big chip on mine and Safelite wants $840 for generic glass, and $1200 for OEM, to come and replace it (and dealer quoted $1800). Depending on your trim of course. On mine this includes $300 for calibrating the sensors/cameras after the windshield is installed.

I got this insurance when I purchased my Mercedes, and that had cost $999 (and replacement for those hover around $1500 and up). This was limited to two years and up to two or three replacements I believe.
Of course since my windshield was insured, I never got a chip...

You may never use it, but if you do just once, it will pay for itself. More than once and you come out ahead. Like everything else insurance related, that’s for you to determine.

Other than that, I would not get anything else, just like others have suggested. YMMV.
 
The only thing I would get if they offer it, is the windshield insurance if you live somewhere where you may get your glass chipped often. I just got a big chip on mine and Safelite wants $840 for generic glass, and $1200 for OEM, to come and replace it (and dealer quoted $1800). Depending on your trim of course. On mine this includes $300 for calibrating the sensors/cameras after the windshield is installed.

I got this insurance when I purchased my Mercedes, and that had cost $999 (and replacement for those hover around $1500 and up). This was limited to two years and up to two or three replacements I believe.
Of course since my windshield was insured, I never got a chip...

You may never use it, but if you do just once, it will pay for itself. More than once and you come out ahead. Like everything else insurance related, that’s for you to determine.

Other than that, I would not get anything else, just like others have suggested. YMMV.

I would also recommend checking state insurance laws before purchasing this. In Florida your insurance will give you a free windshield replacement.
 
Settled on a dealership and the truck I want - great deal here with 0% for 84 months plus they are throwing a hard tonneau cover and a tint to match the back windows.

Most likely tomorrow I will be stopping by the dealership to sign+deposit and thereafter will have a rendez-vous with their finance department.

Please let me know what should I take if anything and what's the best way to prepare/handle their oncoming load of upselling.

Thank you!


Turn and run before its too late!!
 
just tell the sales person ahead of time that if they try to sell you any extra bs you will walk.
the dealers i deal with know me know and know they have 2 pencils max and not to upsell me. also because im ocd with my detailing they also know not to wash/recon the vehicles.
signed on my BTS yesterday and all i got was your all set with warranties and do not clean it right?
My dealership and I have the same relationship. They know that I don't ever opt for any of that stuff, so they get me out of that office quickly. I can't think of a single thing that anyone should add when in the finance office.
The only thing I would get if they offer it, is the windshield insurance if you live somewhere where you may get your glass chipped often. I just got a big chip on mine and Safelite wants $840 for generic glass, and $1200 for OEM, to come and replace it (and dealer quoted $1800). Depending on your trim of course. On mine this includes $300 for calibrating the sensors/cameras after the windshield is installed.
RAMEN, check with your insurance agent to see if you have any kind of windshield coverage. Most full-coverage insurance will cover the cost of a new windshield, or any repairs for things like rock chips. And if there is a deductible it's usually very small, like $35 to $50. My insurance fully covers chip repairs, and only charges $35 deductible for a replacement. Any calibration of sensors and cameras is included with the windshield replacement. It's certainly not worth buying extra insurance if your car insurance already covers that.
 
My dealership and I have the same relationship. They know that I don't ever opt for any of that stuff, so they get me out of that office quickly. I can't think of a single thing that anyone should add when in the finance office.

RAMEN, check with your insurance agent to see if you have any kind of windshield coverage. Most full-coverage insurance will cover the cost of a new windshield, or any repairs for things like rock chips. And if there is a deductible it's usually very small, like $35 to $50. My insurance fully covers chip repairs, and only charges $35 deductible for a replacement. Any calibration of sensors and cameras is included with the windshield replacement. It's certainly not worth buying extra insurance if your car insurance already covers that.
True. It would depend on the state as you've mentioned above. Here in Texas, there's zero deductible for repairs of chips (I have Progressive), but it does not cover windshield replacement, which would have to use the comprehensive deductible.
 
GAP is a good idea but don't pay for it through them. I pay like $4 a month for gap through Progressive. Dealers usually charge $800 for life of loan.
I financed the Ram plus taxes and my gap was $90 up front.
 
That is an insanely cheap price.
It was through the "Municipal Credit Union" a NYC civil servant credit union. My rate was 1.9% and I think I got a check back for $900+ from the dealership because I purchased it through the credit union and the dealership utilizes the unions buying organization of some sort. The 1.9% was because it came out of my check. When I retired I had some "real stupid" issues with them as I no longer had a payday.
Believe it or not at the time I could keep the rate if MCU received a check from another bank BUT they could not take money from my account in the bank. So I asked them if they wanted me to take the funds from my account to put it in another bank so they could take it out from that bank. It took a few phone calls and emails to straighten out and make sense but it was accomplished. Sure did make me wonder what goes on when MCU makes policy. Oh yeah the bank president stole a whole mess of money to keep his gambling going. May be a good place to get a loan, not necessarily the place to keep a good deal of money.
 
Settled on a dealership and the truck I want - great deal here with 0% for 84 months plus they are throwing a hard tonneau cover and a tint to match the back windows.

Most likely tomorrow I will be stopping by the dealership to sign+deposit and thereafter will have a rendez-vous with their finance department.

Please let me know what should I take if anything and what's the best way to prepare/handle their oncoming load of upselling.

Thank you!
Where is the 84 month at 0% offered? Anywhere near California?
 
I just bought a 2020. Had great payments until the finance guy got a hold of me. I did not look into Mopar extended warranty prior. If you have any interest in getting an extended warranty get a price from Ziegler. I did not, got upsold an aftermarket warranty, if I would have looked around before I likely could have got an extended warranty that is Mopar for the same price as I got the third party. By the way all the work has to be performed at the selling dealer for me. What I got is a protection package through a company called Fidelity, I guess it is not actually an extended warranty, rather an additional. Whatever you do KEEP telling him you cant afford it, he will lower the cost. Read your bill of sale and ask every question you can think of. I am not trying to act like you have never bought a car before. I have bought several new cars, but it seems like slick Bob the finance guy always gets me in the end. Have quotes on the same crap he will push on you prior to going in.
 

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