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Cheap intake upgrade o my Limited really made a difference.

SMS Limited said:
yea actually it is. maybe you should try it before doubting everything. noticing rpm's drop is something my 4 year old could do, you just see the actual needle move from where it was usually at around 2000 rpm's to around 1500 rpm's, and you can notice less resistance on the pedal. I know performance, look at the other cars in my collection and you can see that I'm not a dummy.
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I never called you a dummy. But the more you argue this the more apparent it is that you are ignorant as to the effect an air filter will have. Not to mention less resistance in the gas pedal is absurd as it is fly by wire. These claims are such delusions of grandeur that this has to be trolling. No one could possibly believe this.
 
If I had my '19 in the garage, I'd video the tach w stock filter then w.o ANY filter to settle this. *Hint hint*
 
Cannonball said:
If I had my '19 in the garage, I'd video the tach w stock filter then w.o ANY filter to settle this. *Hint hint*
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Why? I find this much more amusing. Everyone's opinions are always correct on the webernet and there is no possibility of anyone ever having another experience than theirs. So why look for common ground or alternative thoughts. Ah such a waste, that independent thought and exploration thing. Have I used up my max characters yet? I'll go back to enjoying my truck and my thoughts now.
 
Engine RPM is entirely controlled by the amount of air and fuel entering an engine. Modern engines have idle air control valves (or idle speed control motor) that bypass a closed throttle body to keep the engine running when your foot is off the throttle. Changing the air filter doesn't alter how much air passes through this valve, unless the filter was more restrictive than the valve itself. BUT if RPMs are decreasing, it would indicate less air entering the engine, not more....so maybe it is.
 
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you know i might actually do that, I have started a youtube channel recently detailing a few things on the Ram and i have to see if i threw out the old filter or have it but i will definitely try to make a comparison video about that to put it to rest. I have recently added the Carven catback exhaust since i originated the post so i'm not sure how that will play into it but its worth a try.

check out my youtube videos and you will see that I'm not here to troll anyone Just trying to help out the Ram community and give my honest feedback. if you don't want to believe it that's on everyone.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC44ILWHzspzkbQs6WsXkHmw
 
Agitated said:
I never called you a dummy. But the more you argue this the more apparent it is that you are ignorant as to the effect an air filter will have. Not to mention less resistance in the gas pedal is absurd as it is fly by wire. These claims are such delusions of grandeur that this has to be trolling. No one could possibly believe this.
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yea I can only speak from actual results that i have experienced with my Ram with Etorque and with the 3.92 rear end, it wasn't a placebo effect or delusions of grandeur, resting rpm's dropped, throttle response was better, now why that is i cannot tell you and to the actual science behind it i will admit I am ignorant to that, the only thing absurd is your stubbornness to entertain the idea especially when you have not tried it.
 
If you want to end this discussion quickly, have your truck tested on a dynamometer with the original air filter and the replacement. That will tell the story.
 
If I cared that much I would, plus I don’t have free time to deal with all that. I never made any HP gain claims, just that it feels more responsive and idles lower. Now the Edge Pulsar piggyback ECU I ordered will be here on Friday and I know that will make a Huge difference.
 
Unless any of you are willing to put some science behind this lower rpm / less throttle pressure "result", I think its safe to say that on modern vehicles with fuel injection there are a multitude of parameters that the ECU uses to set, adjust, and maintain the engine idle speed. Many things factor in, such as ambient air temperature, coolant temperature, O2 readings, engine load, knock sensor readings (octane), ignition timing adjustment, etc, etc. For someone to say "I did X and now the RPMs dropped at idle and while driving around town", that's not a very controlled experiment. What was the outside air temp that day? Before and after the swap? The humidity? How warm was the engine? Did that change before and after? Were you running the same grade fuel from the same pump at the same gas station? Is it winter blend fuel now? Was the A/C on? Defrost? Was the battery charging? Did you have the headlights on? Radio? Were you driving at the same rate? Location? Same gear position? Per the rules of math and the laws of physics, unless you were in a different gear or the transmission was slipping, there won't be a change in engine RPM at the same speed in the same gear as before, no matter what you do. You could add 1000HP to the motor, it doesn't change the drive ratio between the engine and the tires. That one's easy to debunk. The idle claim is more than likely just a difference in environment from the first recorded experience to the second. Not trying to discredit you OP or anyone else, but, at least in the limited context you've provided, there are some things that just don't add up, or are not plausible (or possible). Maybe you're not explaining it well? Or maybe you don't know how to explain what you're finding? My hunch is just that you're overstating / overly optimistic about the "results" you're seeing by changing the air filter element. Do you even have any CFM data to back up that one filter flows better than the other? Do you know for sure you're getting better flow? I guess the Mass Air Sensor readings could tell us that. Do you have recorded voltages from before and after?
 
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riccnick said:
Unless any of you are willing to put some science behind this lower rpm / less throttle pressure "result", I think its safe to say that on modern vehicles with fuel injections there are a multitude of parameters that the ECU uses to set, adjust, and maintain the engine idle speed. Many things factor in, such as ambient air temperature, coolant temperature, O2 readings, engine load, knock sensor readings (octane), ignition timing adjustment, etc, etc. For someone to say "I did X and now the RPMs dropped at idle and while driving around town", that's not a very controlled experiment. What was the outside air temp that day? Before and after the swap? The humidity? How warm was the engine? Did that change before and after? Were you running the same grade fuel from the same pump at the same gas station? Is it winter blend fuel now? Was the A/C on? Defrost? Was the battery charging? Did you have the headlights on? Radio? Were you driving at the same rate? Location? Same gear position? Per the rules of math and the laws of physics, unless you were in a different gear or the transmission was slipping, there won't be a change in engine RPM at the same speed in the same gear as before, no matter what you do. You could add 1000HP to the motor, it doesn't change the drive ratio between the engine and the tires. That one's easy to debunk. The idle claim is more than likely just a difference in environment from the first recorded experience to the second. Not trying to discredit you OP or anyone else, but, at least in the limited context you've provided, there are some things that just don't add up, or are not possible (or plausible). Maybe you're not explaining it well? Or maybe you don't know how to explain what you're finding? My hunch is just that you're overstating / overly optimistic about the "results" you're seeing by changing the air filter element. Do you even have any CFM data to back up that one filter flows better than the other? Do you know for sure you're getting better flow? I guess the Mass Air Sensor readings could tell us that. Do you have recorded voltages from before and after?
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#beatdeadhorseemoji?
 
Does anyone have any Milk Duds and Coke to go with my popcorn? Looks like we are done with the trailers and the show is just getting ready to start.
 
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If it doesn't get locked this could very well be this site's legacy thread. Someone taught me a long time ago that if you try and reason with some people, all they do is bring you down to their level. The fire is now stoked, it's up to someone else to throw another log on. I have heard rumors of delusional claims from something like this, but I've never seen it for myself. Now if it had been a 5mpg improvement I'd be a believer.
 
The filter has magic juice infused in the elements sprinkling horse power and torque. o_O
 
Most likely all that's happening is the OP is getting more dirt in his engine than before. I'll try to find the thread / article, but we had this conversation over on the Tundra forum I was a part of and there was some pretty significant evidence against using anything but the stock air filter for any reason at all.
 
You guys are so funny, how can you even compare theory and ideas to what actually happened?
 
1. Find OEM filter you threw away
2. Cold start with aftermarket filter videoing rpms for 1 minute.
3. Let truck sit 30 minutes.
4. Put OEM filter in and cold start videoing rpms (and your foot not on the gas pedal) for 1 minute.
Winner gets the proceeds from the GoFundMe account we're setting up for this debacle.
 
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