Bilstein install. What did I do wrong?

[scottmoyer]

I tried installing the 5100s this weekend and ended up going back to stock. What did I do wrong?

Everything was fine until I tried putting the 5100 into the compressed spring. I have a '21 Rebel and needed to really crank down the spring compressors to release the tension to remove the top hat nut. When installing the 5100s, the screw was still about 1-1.5 inches below where it needs to be for attaching and securing the top hat nut. The top of the strut wasn't even flush with the bottom of the opening. I tried cranking down the spring compressors more, but then I noticed the compressor rods had a curve to 'em, so I put it back to factory.

I took the strut assemblies to a local shop and asked them to use their spring compressor as a safer option. They cranked my springs down with about 1000 pounds of compression and the nut still couldn't even grab 1 thread. So we returned them to stock.

I watched multiple videos online and most show the removal of the factory strut, but then the next scene shows it all back together. Also, a few showed that they didn't have to compress the spring much to release the factory strut and nobody mentioned having to crank down the spring compressor to install the new strut.

It only makes sense that if you move the spring seat up an inch or so, that the spring would need to be compressed more than was needed to release the factory one since the 4600 and the 5100 are the exact same size in height. I needed at least 1" more length to attach the top hat, but that was a no go with the amount of preload already on the spring.

What did I do wrong? The part numbers being installed are 24-300872 and the clip was on the 5th ring.

 

[Redz72]

Maybe this video will help?

12 minute mark starts disassembly and reassembly.

 

[HSKR R/T]

I tried installing the 5100s this weekend and ended up going back to stock. What did I do wrong?

Everything was fine until I tried putting the 5100 into the compressed spring. I have a '21 Rebel and needed to really crank down the spring compressors to release the tension to remove the top hat nut. When installing the 5100s, the screw was still about 1-1.5 inches below where it needs to be for attaching and securing the top hat nut. The top of the strut wasn't even flush with the bottom of the opening. I tried cranking down the spring compressors more, but then I noticed the compressor rods had a curve to 'em, so I put it back to factory.

I took the strut assemblies to a local shop and asked them to use their spring compressor as a safer option. They cranked my springs down with about 1000 pounds of compression and the nut still couldn't even grab 1 thread. So we returned them to stock.

I watched multiple videos online and most show the removal of the factory strut, but then the next scene shows it all back together. Also, a few showed that they didn't have to compress the spring much to release the factory strut and nobody mentioned having to crank down the spring compressor to install the new strut.

It only makes sense that if you move the spring seat up an inch or so, that the spring would need to be compressed more than was needed to release the factory one since the 4600 and the 5100 are the exact same size in height. I needed at least 1" more length to attach the top hat, but that was a no go with the amount of preload already on the spring.

What did I do wrong? The part numbers being installed are 24-300872 and the clip was on the 5th ring.

I would say most likely scenario is you didn't have the spring perches fully seated on the steut.

 

[scottmoyer]

The spring seats were set correctly. I marked the the front top hat screw all the way down to the strut assembly before removing the old strut. The new strut came with a new seat, so it was easy to just add the bump stop to the strut and install it into the spring. With everything aligned, it should have been easy, based on what everyone else shows.

In the above video, they kept the stock ride height, so the clip was at the lowest ring and the top of the strut just barely came thru the top hat. They barely cranked down their springs to remove the strut. Mine were cranked down so much, the compressor screws were curving and the strut never came through the top hat. Using the video above, if you move the spring seat up to ring 5, the spring will need to be compressed a lot more to get the screw thru the top hat as the factory height of the spring just went up the same height the spring seat went up. Nobody is showing what they did when doing the lift option when reassembling the strut. They show the take down, then show the assembly going back in.

I'd like to know what others are doing when using the spring compressors at home and how much they cranked to get this to work. I used my impact a little on each side to speed up the compressor ratcheting, and the tension on the springs was exceeding the torque of my impact gun. It stopped turning the screws!!!

 

[HSKR R/T]

The spring seats were set correctly. I marked the the front top hat screw all the way down to the strut assembly before removing the old strut. The new strut came with a new seat, so it was easy to just add the bump stop to the strut and install it into the spring. With everything aligned, it should have been easy, based on what everyone else shows.

In the above video, they kept the stock ride height, so the clip was at the lowest ring and the top of the strut just barely came thru the top hat. They barely cranked down their springs to remove the strut. Mine were cranked down so much, the compressor screws were curving and the strut never came through the top hat. Using the video above, if you move the spring seat up to ring 5, the spring will need to be compressed a lot more to get the screw thru the top hat as the factory height of the spring just went up the same height the spring seat went up. Nobody is showing what they did when doing the lift option when reassembling the strut. They show the take down, then show the assembly going back in.

I'd like to know what others are doing when using the spring compressors at home and how much they cranked to get this to work. I used my impact a little on each side to speed up the compressor ratcheting, and the tension on the springs was exceeding the torque of my impact gun. It stopped turning the screws!!!

I have mine on clip 6. Didn't have any issues compressing the spring. But I also didn't buy the cheap spring compressors that parts stores rent out.

This is what I use
Prokomon 2 Pcs Coil Spring... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PQLRP8W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

[knightro84]

Have to remember the springs on the rebel/off road group trucks are 1" taller than regular 1500's. When I did the 5100's on my truck I had to use 4 spring compressors on each spring to get it to compress enough to where I could get the nut back on. I was convinced they were going to fail and that was going to be it for me.

 

[HSKR R/T]

Have to remember the springs on the rebel/off road group trucks are 1" taller than regular 1500's. When I did the 5100's on my truck I had to use 4 spring compressors on each spring to get it to compress enough to where I could get the nut back on. I was convinced they were going to fail and that was going to be it for me.

I have the ORP springs.

 

[Redz72]

It might be worth taking the 5100’s and your stocker struts to a reputable installer to swap the springs for you using their compressor cage. I think you mentioned that you may have taken them to a local shop. A good, knowledgeable and reputable shop would be able to handle that swap without issue.

 

[scottmoyer]

It might be worth taking the 5100’s and your stocker struts to a reputable installer to swap the springs for you using their compressor cage. I think you mentioned that you may have taken them to a local shop. A good, knowledgeable and reputable shop would be able to handle that swap without issue.

That's exactly what I did. They were concerned about the amount of preload they were putting on the springs and they still didn't access to put the top nut on. They stated they were over 1000# of preload and they said that the ride quality will be compromised with that much preload just to get the nut on.

 

[Redz72]

Let me ask you a stupid question. When you cut the transport compression band off the shock body, did it extend fully out? Something like 7”+ (or whatever the stock travel rating is). Might be a bad shock.

 

[scottmoyer]

The shocks came out of the box at full extension. There was no strap on it. I did think it might not be fully extended, but side by side with the factory 4600s and they were basically identical in size. Multiple videos have shown side by side comparisons of their size and they are virtually the same.

I'm beginning to think that I just didn't compress the springs as far as they need to be for the spring seat placement. As I mentioned, nobody has shown the installation of the new strut into the spring after they show the take down. They always just show the finished strut assembly installation.

 

[Redz72]

I’m pretty sure they should not have been packaged that way. All of the new shocks I’ve ever purchased, including the Bilstein 5100’s I just picked up last weekend, came compressed. I assume to fit in a smaller box. Did you buy them brand new? From a dealer? Just trying to troubleshoot all the possible problems.

 

[Scram1500]

Is the spring seat adapter upside down?
Edit: reading is fun, just read that they were correct

 

[HSKR R/T]

I’m pretty sure they should not have been packaged that way. All of the new shocks I’ve ever purchased, including the Bilstein 5100’s I just picked up last weekend, came compressed. I assume to fit in a smaller box. Did you buy them brand new? From a dealer? Just trying to troubleshoot all the possible problems.

I dont remember mine being compressed

 

[Jeffjad]

Again, silly question and I'm not trying to insult anyone's intelligence but was the spring seat upside down where the clip is?.....I only mention this because I've seen it.

EDIT: Oops just saw that @Scram1500 just asked the same question.

 

[Redz72]

I dont remember mine being compressed

Upon further review…the front 5100’s don’t come compressed.


But the rears do.


Welp, we ruled that out of the equation.

 

[PurpleRT]

Yep my fronts weren’t compressed. Rears were.

 

[scottmoyer]

Thanks for all of the input. It sounds like I just chickened out of compressing these springs more. I just measured the factory circlip location to circlip 5 and it's 1-5/16". So, if compressing the spring 1/4" to release the tension enough to remove the top hat screw, that means I still need to compress another 1-1/16" to get the new strut locked in.

I found similar discussions on the RamForumz boards on the older trucks where people had the exact issue I had with the rented spring compressors bending and losing compressing power. If these are working for others, I guess I can try it again, but I'll get different spring compressors the next time.

What are you guys using to compress your front springs?

www.ramforumz.com

 

[HSKR R/T]

Thanks for all of the input. It sounds like I just chickened out of compressing these springs more. I just measured the factory circlip location to circlip 5 and it's 1-5/16". So, if compressing the spring 1/4" to release the tension enough to remove the top hat screw, that means I still need to compress another 1-1/16" to get the new strut locked in.

I found similar discussions on the RamForumz boards on the older trucks where people had the exact issue I had with the rented spring compressors bending and losing compressing power. If these are working for others, I guess I can try it again, but I'll get different spring compressors the next time.

What are you guys using to compress your front springs?

www.ramforumz.com

I definitely wouldn't trust the rented spring compressors. I have used them in the past, on other vehicles, but when I bought my own, I went for a more rugged compressor knowing the cheap ones flex and bend.

 

[Av1]

Thanks for all of the input. It sounds like I just chickened out of compressing these springs more. I just measured the factory circlip location to circlip 5 and it's 1-5/16". So, if compressing the spring 1/4" to release the tension enough to remove the top hat screw, that means I still need to compress another 1-1/16" to get the new strut locked in.

I found similar discussions on the RamForumz boards on the older trucks where people had the exact issue I had with the rented spring compressors bending and losing compressing power. If these are working for others, I guess I can try it again, but I'll get different spring compressors the next time.

What are you guys using to compress your front springs?

www.ramforumz.com

I use the cheap spring compressors because it's what I already have laying around. They aren't very safe. A quality heavy duty set is much safer, and I plan on picking up a good set before I need them again.

If I can make one suggestion, grease the threads on whatever spring compressors you use (if you haven't been doing that already). It makes them so much easier to use.