That's the one I have. Works really good, for the most part. The brace that connects the two is kind of cumbersome, and I took it off after first attempt.Going to setting 7 I measured how much I needed to compress more than factory, 1 3/4 or whatever it was, I compressed it that much before I removed it from the stock strut so if the compressor did let loose the spring wasn't going anywhere. You also do not want to use the rod nut to compress the spring. If I ever adjust the height again I'm going to get this compressor.compressor linky
$30? Shops by me all quoted $150-200 if everything was off the truck and brought to them . That’s what lead me to just buy the tool and do it myself.I've always taken the front struts to a shop for $30 and let them swap the coils. I might not be the best looking guy, but I wanna keep what I have!!![]()
![]()
Most recent was $80, but I'll still pay a shop to do it so I don't risk the chance of sh*t going south which I have seen before. Hard Pass!$30? Shops by me all quoted $150-200 if everything was off the truck and brought to them . That’s what lead me to just buy the tool and do it myself.
Sounds like a flipped spring perch if you are getting that much pressure. Yours should look like this. If you can see the clip, they’re upside down.
Which spring compressor did you end up buying?Update. I purchased the heavier spring compressors and did the Bilstein install again today. My truck looks like I'm a little high in the front. Not sure if it's because I'm used to the lower look of the front end.
I measured the bottom of the wheel openings and the front is 1/2" higher than the rear at the center. However, I measured the bottom of the body behind the front wheel and also the body at the rear of the cab, and the measurement was 100% equal. We'll see what it looks like after an alignment, but I don't expect any change. So, I may need to get a rear block to get the proper stance because I will not be taking the front end apart again to move the spring seat to setting 4, instead of 5.
Thanks all for your assistance.
BTW, I also adjusted the headlights down by turning each one 4 full turns. Another post mentions 4.5 on the driver side and 4 on the passenger side, but I decided to go with 4 on both and see what they look like tonight.
I wouldn't just randomly adjust the headlights.Update. I purchased the heavier spring compressors and did the Bilstein install again today. My truck looks like I'm a little high in the front. Not sure if it's because I'm used to the lower look of the front end.
I measured the bottom of the wheel openings and the front is 1/2" higher than the rear at the center. However, I measured the bottom of the body behind the front wheel and also the body at the rear of the cab, and the measurement was 100% equal. We'll see what it looks like after an alignment, but I don't expect any change. So, I may need to get a rear block to get the proper stance because I will not be taking the front end apart again to move the spring seat to setting 4, instead of 5.
Thanks all for your assistance.
BTW, I also adjusted the headlights down by turning each one 4 full turns. Another post mentions 4.5 on the driver side and 4 on the passenger side, but I decided to go with 4 on both and see what they look like tonight.
There were cheaper sets and more expensive sets, but others on here mentioned these, so I got them since they worked.Which spring compressor did you end up buying?
What makes adjusting down the headlights, when you raise the front end, random?I wouldn't just randomly adjust the headlights.
You don't actually know how they are adjusted right now. There is a proper procedure for adjusting headlights to make sure they are aimed properly. Involves a wall and some tape.There were cheaper sets and more expensive sets, but others on here mentioned these, so I got them since they worked.
What makes adjusting down the headlights, when you raise the front end, random?
The front end usually settles some after a bit of driving.Update. I purchased the heavier spring compressors and did the Bilstein install again today. My truck looks like I'm a little high in the front. Not sure if it's because I'm used to the lower look of the front end.
I measured the bottom of the wheel openings and the front is 1/2" higher than the rear at the center. However, I measured the bottom of the body behind the front wheel and also the body at the rear of the cab, and the measurement was 100% equal. We'll see what it looks like after an alignment, but I don't expect any change. So, I may need to get a rear block to get the proper stance because I will not be taking the front end apart again to move the spring seat to setting 4, instead of 5.
Thanks all for your assistance.
BTW, I also adjusted the headlights down by turning each one 4 full turns. Another post mentions 4.5 on the driver side and 4 on the passenger side, but I decided to go with 4 on both and see what they look like tonight.
I don't adjust them after a level. I like the added light out front and the awesome x ray of the people coming towards me. Insert pot stirring here. LOLI would agree that there's a proper procedure. There are posts in this forum where a member stated how many turns of the adjustment dial he needed after doing the Bilstein 5100 2" level to get his headlights where they needed to be. Granted, his could've been incorrectly set from the factory, but he gave those initial specs also. With that, after level, 4.5 turns down put his headlights at the same position they were before the lift.
So, I didn't actually measure mine before the change because I forgot. But, I did check that the center dot on my headlight lens is at 43" after the level, and it was close enough to his to use his calculations. I did readjust mine back up 1 full turn after it got dark, but at least I knew I wouldn't rudely be blinding people if I was out driving and it got dark before I could properly adjust.