Bilstein 5100

[busa2009]

Would I use setting 5 or higher to clear 285/65r20

I’m running the nitto 285/65/20 as long as you hit the 2inch mark you good. I went up to far to the 7th ring either I will add to the back or tear back into my ugh.


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[Wasachevyguy]

Is there any chance they put the spring seat adapter on upside down?

View attachment 50541

I really don’t believe so. Here a pics from a couple angles.

 

[Mainah]

I really don’t believe so. Here a pics from a couple angles.

That's a strange issue, something clearly isn't right. I have the North Edition, which has the ORP springs and I'm still running the stock tires, 275/55r20 Falkens, my rear wheel wells are at 39.5"and the front is at 39.25" from the ground on setting 5. Mine came out at exactly 2" of level.


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[Wasachevyguy]

That's a strange issue, something clearly isn't right. I have the North Edition, which has the ORP springs and I'm still running the stock tires, 275/55r20 Falkens, my rear wheel wells are at 39.5"and the front is at 39.25" from the ground on setting 5. Mine came out at exactly 2" of level.


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I know. My truck should measure 1/2” shorter on #6 with no ORP, not 1” taller than yours with ORP and #5.. I’m so frustrated I’m ready to go back to stock. The thing is, I could probably just drop down to #4 and be in the ballpark of level, but something is wrong and I can’t tolerate knowing that. The OCD is strong in me.

 

[MBORO19RAM]

The back and forth on this thread is crazy. Set it and forget it, they are just cheap Bilstein shocks.


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[Kxlexus]

I really don’t believe so. Here a pics from a couple angles.

I think the spring seats may be upside down. Granted, my pair of Bilstein 5100 are still in the box but those pictures look different to me. I’ll know more once I’ve had a chance to install mine but it sure looks upside down to me and that would explain the difference in height

 

[Z mann R2]

Ok so I did my Rebel....and let me tell you, I wish I had taken the lower control arms off instead of the upper because the drivers side took insane amounts of effort and the passenger side ball joint wouldn’t freaking budge!!! So I went for the lower control arm instead and holy crap it’s WAAAAAY more easy. So I highly suggest doing that method instead.

The rear has only a half inch of rake now so I’ll be adding a 1.5” spacer to the rear this weekend

Here she is:

 

[Wasachevyguy]

More reading, careful inspection of the install sheet, checking part orientation, I’ve verified a few things: 1. My front lifted nearly 1.5” more than anyone else using the same setting (#6 lifted over 3”). 2. The spring seat is not upside down. 3. The spring seat adapter is installed correctly and seems to be bottomed out.

Wondered if the Mopar UCAs changed geometry, but everything I’ve read leads me to believe they do not. They only only provide more ballpoint travel. The rust belt mechanic youtube video suggests they are different.

I don’t know if the guy bounced loose then torqued on the ground. I’d hope so, but that’s not going to hold it up after driving around. I do notice the dust covers are fully in tact and not running concentric down the strut. Not even close. It nearly hits the strut at the end of the dust cover. I asked the mechanic if he marked the top assembly to make sure it was properly aligned/clocked and he said “no, there’s no way to install it wrong.” Is this right? The top spring seat is cut out to accommodate the end of the coil and that looks correct. Still, I’m wondering if something else is “clocked” wrong???

 

[Bluelinebuild]

More reading, careful inspection of the install sheet, checking part orientation, I’ve verified a few things: 1. My front lifted nearly 1.5” more than anyone else using the same setting (#6 lifted over 3”). 2. The spring seat is not upside down. 3. The spring seat adapter is installed correctly and seems to be bottomed out.

Wondered if the Mopar UCAs changed geometry, but everything I’ve read leads me to believe they do not. They only only provide more ballpoint travel. The rust belt mechanic youtube video suggests they are different.

I don’t know if the guy bounced loose then torqued on the ground. I’d hope so, but that’s not going to hold it up after driving around. I do notice the dust covers are fully in tact and not running concentric down the strut. Not even close. It nearly hits the strut at the end of the dust cover. I asked the mechanic if he marked the top assembly to make sure it was properly aligned/clocked and he said “no, there’s no way to install it wrong.” Is this right? The top spring seat is cut out to accommodate the end of the coil and that looks correct. Still, I’m wondering if something else is “clocked” wrong???

The top of that strut housing should have been marked from the top down to the top of the spring so everything is aligned, if not you can easily have the top housing put back on wrong. Those 3 bolts that hold the top of the strut to the tower have to go back in the same exact way!. Yes the spring seat is cut out so it will appear that its in properly but the top bracket and spring seat spin freely of each other once removed which is why they should have been marked. Mine got all out of wack and I was thinking in that moment that I was glad I marked them!

 

[Wasachevyguy]

The top of that strut housing should have been marked from the top down to the top of the spring so everything is aligned, if not you can easily have the top housing put back on wrong. Those 3 bolts that hold the top of the strut to the tower have to go back in the same exact way!. Yes the spring seat is cut out so it will appear that its in properly but the top bracket and spring seat spin freely of each other once removed which is why they should have been marked. Mine got all out of wack and I was thinking in that moment that I was glad I marked them!

Thanks. It has to be wrong as the suspension squeaks now too. I really have no idea how to get it back right. I have no reference. I guess I will call the dealership and go from there. This sucks.

 

[Bluelinebuild]

Thanks. It has to be wrong as the suspension squeaks now too. I really have no idea how to get it back right. I have no reference. I guess I will call the dealership and go from there. This sucks.

It will probably impossible for you to see on yours with them still in the truck but in the photo I am attaching the more pointed section stud(red arrow) should be pointing out toward you during install and the "rounder" edge studs would be toward the back(closest to engine). Just another way to verify if this was installed wrong. Hope you can get this all resolved. I do not envy the headache this has given you.

 

[Wasachevyguy]

It will probably impossible for you to see on yours with them still in the truck but in the photo I am attaching the more pointed section stud(red arrow) should be pointing out toward you during install and the "rounder" edge studs would be toward the back(closest to engine). Just another way to verify if this was installed wrong. Hope you can get this all resolved. I do not envy the headache this has given you. View attachment 50583

I really appreciate all your help! One thing that was just verified... the suspension was tightened and torqued on the ground. He also just told me he did one side at a time, so no parts (especially coils) are swapped around. He also says the strut tower will not go back in wrong due to stud alignment. I don’t know how accurate that is, but that’s what he claims.

 

[Bluelinebuild]

I really appreciate all your help! One thing that was just verified... the suspension was tightened and torqued on the ground. He also just told me he did one side at a time, so no parts (especially coils) are swapped around. He also says the strut tower will not go back in wrong due to stud alignment. I don’t know how accurate that is, but that’s what he claims.

No problem. I cant confirm the stud alignment statement but all the install videos stressed it as if it were possible that it could be put back in wrong.

 

[Wasachevyguy]

No problem. I cant confirm the stud alignment statement but all the install videos stressed it as if it were possible that it could be put back in wrong.

Yeah, I try to be polite and respectful, but my patience wore out and I had to point out the fact that the Bilstein instructions reference indexing/clocking TWO TIMES. Seems every time I have someone do something I’m capable of doing something is screwed up. Mostly, I’m mad at myself. I know better. Ha.

 

[RebelWraith]

I really appreciate all your help! One thing that was just verified... the suspension was tightened and torqued on the ground. He also just told me he did one side at a time, so no parts (especially coils) are swapped around. He also says the strut tower will not go back in wrong due to stud alignment. I don’t know how accurate that is, but that’s what he claims.

He is 100% right. The top hat is keyed and can only go in one way. However, even in the Bilstein instruction it tells you to mark the spring rotation in regards to the top hat. So, there is definitely something there.

Did you verify the part numbers?

 

[Z mann R2]

Luckily my Reel already had the upper strut seat clearly marked from factory because I completely forgot and assembly was easy after that

 

[Wasachevyguy]

I

He is 100% right. The top hat is keyed and can only go in one way. However, even in the Bilstein instruction it tells you to mark the spring rotation in regards to the top hat. So, there is definitely something there.

Did you verify the part numbers?

I did verify part #s.

 

[RebelWraith]

I

I did verify part #s.

At this point it is safe to say that the error is on the installation.

 

[Z mann R2]

BTW, can anyone tell me the torque settings for the upper and lower control arm frame bolts? 4th gen Rams say 120 and 200 ft lbs respectively So that’s what I did but wanna make sure

The video posted on the previous pages didn’t specify.....btw the 4th gen ram upper ball joint nut torque was 70 ftlbs and the 5th (according to that video) is 37 ft lbs....I REALLY am questioning how it could have gone down by HALF.....we need actual verification on this

edit: the Haynes manual for 4th gen says 40ftlbs and then an additional 200 degrees turn for upper ball joint nut....I’m wondering if that video forgot to mention that additional 200 degree turn

 

[Z mann R2]

Here’s some instructions for a level lift on 2019 Rams showing torque settings...this is removal of lower control arm torque is to the frame
control