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Bilstein 5100

Finally received my 5100's in the mail today. Just waiting to install them as part of my Readylift 3.5" sst kit.
 
Based on your signature, you have the factory 1" because you have the North Edition. I have the same, went with setting #5 and OEM UCA angle looks fine. Dealership did the alignment and said it looked good.
Good thing I made a signature finally today, and thanks so much for the info. That's great news. Looks like I'll just keep stock on there then! Any need to be concerned for CV angles or anything else from what you've seen? The wife brought up warranty concerns. Thanks for the help!
 
I sure hope so, they’re about 4x the price!

All kidding aside, I ran Billy’s for 180k miles on my last truck and they served me pretty well. There aren’t a lot of options out there right now and the Falcons look pretty nice. Can you purchase only the fronts? I don’t really feel the need to hit all 4 corners with a brand new truck

I didn't see the option to just buy the fronts. Yeah, don't get me wrong, I had the 5100's on my F150 for 120K miles and they served me well too. I was just saying the ride quality of these Falcons is amazing. Must more stable than the stock set up.
 
If anyone is wondering I measured the length of the non-ORP and ORP front springs uncompressed and off the truck last night. They measure 15 5/8” and 16 1/2”, respectively. I’ll measure the truck once I get the other side installed, but the 5100 on setting #3 plus the ORP spring seems to have netted me right around the 2” of height increase in the front I was looking for.
 
Good thing I made a signature finally today, and thanks so much for the info. That's great news. Looks like I'll just keep stock on there then! Any need to be concerned for CV angles or anything else from what you've seen? The wife brought up warranty concerns. Thanks for the help!

No concerns that I've seen, but I suppose time will tell....
Bilstein really does their research before releasing their products, so I'm hopeful it'll be okay. I suppose any mods can influence wear and tear. I've been modding Jeeps for years and have always considered the impact on the components in the process. Lucky for me, I have yet to run into issues....and now I've just jinxed myself....
 
Finally received my 5100's in the mail today. Just waiting to install them as part of my Readylift 3.5" sst kit.
I don't think it really matters what you have on with the Readylift kit...I just took mine off. The ride is horrible unless you're only on smooth roads. Save up and get the 4in BDS...I'm amazed how good it is as I might swap out the fronts with the 5100's
 
Nice info..Thanks everyone.
 
I don't think it really matters what you have on with the Readylift kit...I just took mine off. The ride is horrible unless you're only on smooth roads. Save up and get the 4in BDS...I'm amazed how good it is as I might swap out the fronts with the 5100's
Only off road I see is the occasional trailhead I mountain bike at. Money isn't the issue, I already own the parts so I am gonna give them a try. If I don't like then i'll take it off and go w/ coilovers. Thanks for the input.
 
Only off road I see is the occasional trailhead I mountain bike at. Money isn't the issue, I already own the parts so I am gonna give them a try. If I don't like then i'll take it off and go w/ coilovers. Thanks for the input.
If you're not offroading the coilovers are certainly an unnecessary extra 2K- One of the things that impressed me the most with the BDS was how much it improved my steering. I got used the the Readylift after a few thousand miles and you forget how changing the geometry just changes everything.
 
Well, crap. Mine was set on #6 and I should’ve gone with #5. 2.2” was too much without any lift in the rear, in my opinion.
 
Upon further inspection, I’m really curious about what is different From the other guys on here that seem to be happy with #6 or even #7. I guess it could just be personal preference, but I can’t imagine anyone looking at my truck thinking there is the slightest bit of rake. It is definitely nose-high. I looked at the strut and it appears he did in fact set it at #6, not #7. The more I look at it, I’m not sure #5 wouldn’t look too high without any rear lift. I’m considering changing to #4. What am I missing? Will the front settle quite a bit?
 
Upon further inspection, I’m really curious about what is different From the other guys on here that seem to be happy with #6 or even #7. I guess it could just be personal preference, but I can’t imagine anyone looking at my truck thinking there is the slightest bit of rake. It is definitely nose-high. I looked at the strut and it appears he did in fact set it at #6, not #7. The more I look at it, I’m not sure #5 wouldn’t look too high without any rear lift. I’m considering changing to #4. What am I missing? Will the front settle quite a bit?
I have yet to take measurements but mine to the eye looks level at #6. Every truck is a little different. Guys running the motofab 2.5" will be perfectly level and others say its a little nose high. I plan on doing the 1" to get some rake back though.
 
I have yet to take measurements but mine to the eye looks level at #6. Every truck is a little different. Guys running the motofab 2.5" will be perfectly level and others say its a little nose high. I plan on doing the 1" to get some rake back though.
Yeah, that’s interesting. My white truck contrasts the black wheel wells more, so maybe it makes it look unlevel? Your black wheel wells, black truck, black tires...maybe it appears more balanced. I can’t imagine there is much difference between two non-ORP 1500 crew cabs w/ 5’7” beds, but maybe I’m wrong. At this point I’m definitely going to drop to #5, maybe #4.
 
Yeah, that’s interesting. My white truck contrasts the black wheel wells more, so maybe it makes it look unlevel? Your black wheel wells, black truck, black tires...maybe it appears more balanced. I can’t imagine there is much difference between two non-ORP 1500 crew cabs w/ 5’7” beds, but maybe I’m wrong. At this point I’m definitely going to drop to #5, maybe #4.
Someone’s mentioned to me that even tho the wheel wells may be level, the lines of the truck make it look nose high. It’s because the bed sits lower than how the hood appears if that makes sense. See attached email from a vendor
 

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Alright, now I’m really confused. I measure at the center of wheel well/bottom of fender on driver’s side front... 40 1/4”. Measuring at the bottom of the rear fender well... 39”. This is with ~32 1/2” tires. Regardless, it is REALLY nose-high.
 
Someone’s mentioned to me that even tho the wheel wells may be level, the lines of the truck make it look nose high. It’s because the bed sits lower than how the hood appears if that makes sense. See attached email from a vendor
Yes, this does make sense. However, the bottom of the fender wells are NOT level. The way it sits now, if I drop it to #5 the wells still won’t be level. I’m beginning to wonder if there is something wrong. The shop owner installed himself and is very experienced. The Ram dealership actually recommended him. To top it off, he has a 4th gen Ram with a level. I can’t really imagine he did anything wrong, but I’m having a hard time understanding how the #6 setting has my truck so jacked up (pun intended).

Update on measurements: center of wheel on front measures about 25” to the bottom of the front fender (Roughly 40” from ground to fender). I was thinking it was 22” before. That’s 3”! What is going on? The center of wheel to bottom of REAR fender is only 23.5.” No wonder it looks ridiculous.
 
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I highly doubt there would be much of a ride quality difference considering the ride height is only changed about .5" between those two settings. Mine set at #6 is perfect in terms of level/slight rake and rides great. Position #7 would probably put you nose high for sure.

Yep that’s where I at I’m going to have to tear it all apart again damn it. Something told me not to do setting 7. I’m curious what setting people are using for just leveling it out


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Yep that’s where I at I’m going to have to tear it all apart again damn it. Something told me not to do setting 7. I’m curious what setting people are using for just leveling it out


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Any chance you would be willing to take a measurement from the center of your wheel to the bottom of the front fender on your truck on setting #7. With my Big Horn having measured somewhere around 22” at the front and now is 25”+, I’m at a loss. Again, it’s on #6, not #7. The front is now 1.5” higher than the rear. That’s at least a 3” swing. I don’t understand what is going on.

As far as what is the right setting... the consensus seems to be #5 or #6. The way mine is setting right now, I’d tell you #4... and that still may be too much.
 
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Yep that’s where I at I’m going to have to tear it all apart again damn it. Something told me not to do setting 7. I’m curious what setting people are using for just leveling it out


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Either that or leave it as is and buy the 1.5" rear spacer for $60. I know I would do that before another 5 hours of tearing the front apart again..haha

 
Either that or leave it as is and buy the 1.5" rear spacer for $60. I know I would do that before another 5 hours of tearing the front apart again..haha

I know you said your truck is level at #6, but would you be willing to measure to give me an idea of where you’re riding from wheel center to bottom of fender? I still can’t understand how there can be such variation unless there is an install or product issue. The instructions note the need to “clock” the spring. I can’t see anything that looks off, so I’m wondering what are the consequences of not doing that? Presumably if the spring is not at the right spot it could ride high.
 

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