Bilstein 5100 leveling kit question about UCA

[Myfine90]

I had a 2014 ram sport that I used these leveling struts on and I had to change the upper control arms , I just bought a 2020 ram 1500 and plan on doing the same leveling kit I was wondering if I need to upgrade the upper control arms on this truck they look like they have a better angel on them from the 4th gen but I wanted your guys input, plus is the upper control arms on 5th gens like a Is composite Material?

 

[H2OMAN]

Are you off roading? If not then all you need to worry about is the alighnment. If you can get a good alighnment you are good to go. If not then UCA's As far as UCA's, there are cast, polymer, forged, forge aluminum and tubular steel. I've never heard of composite and frankly I'd stay away from composite and polymer.

 

[HSKR R/T]

Are you off roading? If not then all you need to worry about is the alighnment. If you can get a good alighnment you are good to go. If not then UCA's As far as UCA's, there are cast, polymer, forged, forge aluminum and tubular steel. I've never heard of composite and frankly I'd stay away from composite and polymer.

The factory UCAs are a composite or polymer control arm.

 

[HSKR R/T]

I had a 2014 ram sport that I used these leveling struts on and I had to change the upper control arms , I just bought a 2020 ram 1500 and plan on doing the same leveling kit I was wondering if I need to upgrade the upper control arms on this truck they look like they have a better angel on them from the 4th gen but I wanted your guys input, plus is the upper control arms on 5th gens like a Is composite Material?

If you are just doing a level you will be fine with the factory UCAs. If you really want to change them, the Mopar 2" lift UCAs are inexpensive option and allow for better travel, and look factory. I think they just use a different ball joint in them

 

[djevox]

I had a 2014 ram sport that I used these leveling struts on and I had to change the upper control arms , I just bought a 2020 ram 1500 and plan on doing the same leveling kit I was wondering if I need to upgrade the upper control arms on this truck they look like they have a better angel on them from the 4th gen but I wanted your guys input, plus is the upper control arms on 5th gens like a Is composite Material?

The issue you’ll run into is that the top of the spindle will contact the coilspring before the suspension is at full droop when the strut’s overall length is too long. That will happen if you pair the stock off road group (ORG) strut with a 2” tophat spacer. It’s usually not an issue for non-ORG with 2” tophat spacers IF you don’t do heavy offroading or go over giant potholes. I’d personally get them anyway, and have done that on both of my 5th gens.

 

[H2OMAN]

The factory UCAs are a composite or polymer control arm.

Yes. Polymer with steel reiforcement. Not optimal imo.

 

[Myfine90]

Are you off roading? If not then all you need to worry about is the alighnment. If you can get a good alighnment you are good to go. If not then UCA's As far as UCA's, there are cast, polymer, forged, forge aluminum and tubular steel. I've never heard of composite and frankly I'd stay away from composite and polymer.

I do some off roading nothing to extreme just like dirt roads to get to the lake haha

 

[H2OMAN]

I do some off roading nothing to extreme just like dirt roads to get to the lake haha

That's fine. It's just that where upgraded uca's come in is with travel. If you need maximum travel or can't get a good alignment then you need them. If you don't then stock will do you for a good while.

 

[boogielander]

since you're gonna do alignment after lift you might as well just put in UCA as well for peace of mind.

sure, you can probably get away without one with leveling, but since you're having it done already then why not just do it all together. You do light off roading but all it takes is one bad day/ trip to break your ball joint and then you gonna spend extra to get it towed back, spend extra to fix the damages, spend extra to put in the arms, and spend extra to realign it.

 

[scottmoyer]

The issue you’ll run into is that the top of the spindle will contact the coilspring before the suspension is at full droop when the strut’s overall length is too long. That will happen if you pair the stock off road group (ORG) strut with a 2” tophat spacer. It’s usually not an issue for non-ORG with 2” tophat spacers IF you don’t do heavy offroading or go over giant potholes. I’d personally get them anyway, and have done that on both of my 5th gens.

Who said anything about using the spacer? This discussion is if UCA's are required when installing the Bilstein 5100s.

 

[djevox]

Who said anything about using the spacer? This discussion is if UCA's are required when installing the Bilstein 5100s.

I might’ve read another title near it and mixed it up when reading the OP’s post. The same concept applies with any strut though- it’s all about overall length.

 

[Polish Falcon]

I am actually in the middle of installing 5100's in my 2019 right now and am ready to scream, everything was fine until it was time to remove the factory strut, and the lower control arm does not droop low enough to get it out. Sitting here drinking bourbon and surfing for a solution because right now it's undriveable. If anyone has run into this before I'd love to hear how you solved it, and now I'm REALLY concerned about getting the 5100 IN. Planning to go with the 1.3" lift setting.

 

[jl13]

I am actually in the middle of installing 5100's in my 2019 right now and am ready to scream, everything was fine until it was time to remove the factory strut, and the lower control arm does not droop low enough to get it out. Sitting here drinking bourbon and surfing for a solution because right now it's undriveable. If anyone has run into this before I'd love to hear how you solved it, and now I'm REALLY concerned about getting the 5100 IN. Planning to go with the 1.3" lift setting.

it's tight but I was able to get it out with the help of a pry bar - just don't over do it with too much down force or the axle might pop out
Also did you disconnect the tie rod I think it was - and I can't remember if the sway bar link as well

found this video - jump to minute 7 and on

 

[Polish Falcon]

it's tight but I was able to get it out with the help of a pry bar - just don't over do it with too much down force or the axle might pop out
Also did you disconnect the tie rod I think it was - and I can't remember if the sway bar link as well

found this video - jump to minute 7 and on

I did... tie rod end (replacing it anyway), sway bar end link, upper control arm. LCA should just pivot out of the way but I have a 7 foot digging bar that I put into the LCA hole and SAT ON IT and it was just enough to let the three upper bolts out of their holes.

Have been hearing a groaning noise from this side of the truck when I turn and the body roll compresses that side, wonder if there's rust or gunk in these LCA's that's making them inflexible. Just sprayed both LCA bushings with WD40 and will let them sit overnight and try again in the morning. At this point I don't care if the WD40 is bad for the bushings.

 

[HSKR R/T]

I did... tie rod end (replacing it anyway), sway bar end link, upper control arm. LCA should just pivot out of the way but I have a 7 foot digging bar that I put into the LCA hole and SAT ON IT and it was just enough to let the three upper bolts out of their holes.

Have been hearing a groaning noise from this side of the truck when I turn and the body roll compresses that side, wonder if there's rust or gunk in these LCA's that's making them inflexible. Just sprayed both LCA bushings with WD40 and will let them sit overnight and try again in the morning. At this point I don't care if the WD40 is bad for the bushings.

You could try loosening the LCA bolts. I was able to just use a pry bar when I did mine. Pop the bottom out, and angle it to get the top out. Don't need to get the bolts out from the top until the bottom is loose and away from LCA

 

[djevox]

I did... tie rod end (replacing it anyway), sway bar end link, upper control arm. LCA should just pivot out of the way but I have a 7 foot digging bar that I put into the LCA hole and SAT ON IT and it was just enough to let the three upper bolts out of their holes.

Have been hearing a groaning noise from this side of the truck when I turn and the body roll compresses that side, wonder if there's rust or gunk in these LCA's that's making them inflexible. Just sprayed both LCA bushings with WD40 and will let them sit overnight and try again in the morning. At this point I don't care if the WD40 is bad for the bushings.

I also used a large prybar when I did mine. If you can’t find a good place to use a prybar, some chain bolted in a loop around the lower control arm with the prybar inserted between then chain and arm can help.

Here’s an LCA tool if you want something more “polished” than a chain. There’s also some kind of simple S hook tool on ebay, but with how much pressure I put on some truck LCA’s, I personally wouldn’t feel comfortable with the S-hook. Keep in mind that you need space underneath the vehicle (for the prybar to travel towards the ground) with all these solutions.

 

[Polish Falcon]

OK so it turns out that even though I removed the bottom nut on the sway bar end link, it was not releasing from the LCA. Pounded it out from the bottom and it immediately became no problem to get the old strut out and the new one in.

One side done, have it set at position 4, 1.3" height, and even though it doesn't sound like a lot, it makes a big difference. I didn't plan on raising the back so this still leaves a tiny bit of rake, very happy with that choice. With what a total beotch it is to get the spring seated in the Bilsteins and making sure the top 3 studs align with the bottom holes, I would NOT want to have to tear it all down and do it over.

 

[HSKR R/T]

OK so it turns out that even though I removed the bottom nut on the sway bar end link, it was not releasing from the LCA. Pounded it out from the bottom and it immediately became no problem to get the old strut out and the new one in.

One side done, have it set at position 4, 1.3" height, and even though it doesn't sound like a lot, it makes a big difference. I didn't plan on raising the back so this still leaves a tiny bit of rake, very happy with that choice. With what a total beotch it is to get the spring seated in the Bilsteins and making sure the top 3 studs align with the bottom holes, I would NOT want to have to tear it all down and do it over.

Don't worry about the alignment of the three bolts, compared to bottom of strut when assembling the strut. Once you get the strut assembled, put it in with the three boktsz then use pry bar to spin the bottom to the position needed. Even if you think it's perfect, as soon as you release tension on the coil it will be off anyways.

 

[Polish Falcon]

So the end result of using setting 4, 1.3” lift, was 1/2” rake. Fronts now 37.75”, rears 38.25” with stock rear setup.

 

[HSKR R/T]

So the end result of using setting 4, 1.3” lift, was 1/2” rake. Fronts now 37.75”, rears 38.25” with stock rear setup.

That's about what I experienced on my BTS using setting 5 and factory ORG. At least the rake portion.