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Bilstein 5100 advice- Don’t buy new UCA’s

MarkB67

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There is absolutely no need to purchase new UCA’s when installing Bilstein 5100s maybe this has been covered but on my non ORP Bighorn at #6 which is 2.5” the angle is very acceptable, I can’t see it changing much if you went up to #7 ,pics are attached below ,spend your money on something else that needs attention
 

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5thGenRebel_AMK

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Yup, here’s mine set to level 5 on a rebel
 

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LincolnSixAlpha

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If you have an opportunity, can you share some part numbers of the 5100 coil-over shocks? Including the rears?
 

5thGenRebel_AMK

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How much lift did you get out of it on your rebel? And what tire size can you squeeze under?


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i didn't measure the exact height but i should sometime soon. My installer said that rear is still a half inch higher than the front. im running 35x12.5's. Had to take off those plastic mud flap things behind the front wheels, and also had to zip tie the fender flares to pull them back a bit, as well as bend the metal clip in the wheel well back where the tire rubbed. i can send some pictures of what i did if this is hard to follow. doesnt rub now
 

5thGenRebel_AMK

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If you have an opportunity, can you share some part numbers of the 5100 coil-over shocks? Including the rears?

these are the front shocks i ordered and have on my rebel. it says "not for rebel" but they work without issue. I didn't swap out the rear OEM reservoir shocks for the 5100's. i think our stock rear shocks are better since they have the reservoir.

bilstein did just come out with these though: https://www.bilsteinlifts.com/shop/...-lift-reservoir-shocks-for-2019-ram-1500-4wd/

not sure how those stack up compared to the OEM ones that come on our rebel. not sure that they would warrant the change
 

knightro84

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The issue with the UCA's on lifted trucks isn't necessarily while the suspension is at a normal resting/driving position. The issues happen when the wheels hit full droop and the stock UCA doesn't have enough articulation and could potentially pop the ball joint out of the socket.

If you aren't offroading a whole lot, or don't think you're going to experience a situation where your front suspension would be in full droop, then I agree that new UCA's probably aren't needed. But for $100 for both, I feel like the Mopar 2" lift UCA's are pretty cheap insurance.
 

MarkB67

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The issue with the UCA's on lifted trucks isn't necessarily while the suspension is at a normal resting/driving position. The issues happen when the wheels hit full droop and the stock UCA doesn't have enough articulation and could potentially pop the ball joint out of the socket.

If you aren't offroading a whole lot, or don't think you're going to experience a situation where your front suspension would be in full droop, then I agree that new UCA's probably aren't needed. But for $100 for both, I feel like the Mopar 2" lift UCA's are pretty cheap insurance.
I also compared my 14 to the factory 19’s and the 19 has about 5-10 more degrees of mobility, but unless you like off-roading a lot and tearing your truck all to hell go buy you some aftermarket uca’s, but not necessary unless you go over 3”, the pic below shows the 14 on the left -19 on the right
 

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Stevenc150

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The issue with the UCA's on lifted trucks isn't necessarily while the suspension is at a normal resting/driving position. The issues happen when the wheels hit full droop and the stock UCA doesn't have enough articulation and could potentially pop the ball joint out of the socket.

If you aren't offroading a whole lot, or don't think you're going to experience a situation where your front suspension would be in full droop, then I agree that new UCA's probably aren't needed. But for $100 for both, I feel like the Mopar 2" lift UCA's are pretty cheap insurance.
I cant find it for that, Link plz?
 

LincolnSixAlpha

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these are the front shocks i ordered and have on my rebel. it says "not for rebel" but they work without issue. I didn't swap out the rear OEM reservoir shocks for the 5100's. i think our stock rear shocks are better since they have the reservoir.

bilstein did just come out with these though: https://www.bilsteinlifts.com/shop/...-lift-reservoir-shocks-for-2019-ram-1500-4wd/

not sure how those stack up compared to the OEM ones that come on our rebel. not sure that they would warrant the change

Thank you! One quick question - have you noticed any sort of improvements, or otherwise with the new 5100's vs the factory Bilstein's? I only ask because while offroading this weekend, I noticed how easy it is to bottom out the front shocks and hit the jounce bumpers.
 

5thGenRebel_AMK

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Thank you! One quick question - have you noticed any sort of improvements, or otherwise with the new 5100's vs the factory Bilstein's? I only ask because while offroading this weekend, I noticed how easy it is to bottom out the front shocks and hit the jounce bumpers.
its too early for me to tell, i've only had this setup for 5 days lol. the ride honestly feels the same, i feel more of a difference due to the change of tire to be honest. I cant speak on anything regarding suspension travel. I use my truck mainly on trails for hunting and things like that. basically just unmaintained access roads that dont get super crazy, so im not sure that ill ever notice the difference.
 

LincolnSixAlpha

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its too early for me to tell, i've only had this setup for 5 days lol. the ride honestly feels the same, i feel more of a difference due to the change of tire to be honest. I cant speak on anything regarding suspension travel. I use my truck mainly on trails for hunting and things like that. basically just unmaintained access roads that dont get super crazy, so im not sure that ill ever notice the difference.

Thanks for the update. I'm not really interested in larger tires but I would like to bring the nose up a bit, and even if it only had a .5 inch shorter difference from the rear, that'll be fine by me. I mainly just drive offroad here in AZ, some rocks and stuff, but none of that high-speed nonsense.
 

judsonlimited

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Yup, here’s mine set to level 5 on a rebel

So what would level 5 equate to? I have an ORP truck now with a 2" motofab spacer and my front shock has started leaking and need to replace. Just gonna upgrade to bilsteins. I want to keep the height i have, what height setting should be used to establish that?
 

judsonlimited

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So what would level 5 equate to? I have an ORP truck now with a 2" motofab spacer and my front shock has started leaking and need to replace. Just gonna upgrade to bilsteins. I want to keep the height i have, what height setting should be used to establish that?

2.1” I roughly I think.


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ChuckH

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i didn't measure the exact height but i should sometime soon. My installer said that rear is still a half inch higher than the front. im running 35x12.5's. Had to take off those plastic mud flap things behind the front wheels, and also had to zip tie the fender flares to pull them back a bit, as well as bend the metal clip in the wheel well back where the tire rubbed. i can send some pictures of what i did if this is hard to follow. doesnt rub now
I could use those pictures. I definitely have some rubbing.
 

Ramdo

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If I could do it over, I would have gone with level 4 on my ORP instead of level 5. Level 5 has left me looking almost nose high (even after 9,000 miles and settling). I think level 4 would have fallen perfectly at about where I would want to be.
So what would level 5 equate to? I have an ORP truck now with a 2" motofab spacer and my front shock has started leaking and need to replace. Just gonna upgrade to bilsteins. I want to keep the height i have, what height setting should be used to establish that?
 

popcenator

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If I could do it over, I would have gone with level 4 on my ORP instead of level 5. Level 5 has left me looking almost nose high (even after 9,000 miles and settling). I think level 4 would have fallen perfectly at about where I would want to be.
Do you have pictures of the shock installed? Something isn't right. I believe setting 5 should still leave you with a small amount of rake.

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Ram1500rsm

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Asides from showing the arms at ride height droop the wheels in full until they're not touching ground then show the angles . You can lift the truck from the front cross member to test. the angle should be ok at 2" and more likely ok at max with 5100's since they have stock length But The angle will change for the worst with a top spacer, the angle will also change if you have extended travel struts or coilovers. 5100's are factory length. Fox CO (2.0 are longer than 5100 almost by 1", Fox 2.5 COs extended travel are longer than 5100 by 2"). Don't go by lift numbers only.
Better spend the money on aftermarket UCAs It takes the guessing away :)

Always double check your ucas angles at full droop making sure nothing makes contact/bind, same for your CV angles.
 

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