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AmpPro 3 Band EQ Findings

jsampsell

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Hello fellow Ram owners! Today I changed sub amps, added a USB micro extension cable to my AmpPro, and then played around with the 3 Band EQ settings out of curiosity. I thought I'd share the info regarding the EQ findings just for informational purposes. Maybe it will help someone, maybe it won't.

I purchased some subs and an enclosure off of a guy on one of the 5th Gen Ram FB groups a little while back and ended up purchasing the AmpPro AP4-CH41 for ease of use and for potential future work. Since I was replacing the amp this weekend anyway, I decided to add the micro USB extension cable and play around with the 3 band EQ settings.

Adding the subs completely changed how well the "premium" HK system sounds. I know I'm not the first person to say this on this forum but I certainly wanted to confirm it. It is worth the investment if you care about how your music sounds in the truck. What sounds good is quite subjective I realize but I'd say that most people that I've read on here say that the stock HK bass is really bad. Anyhow, opinion aside, I really just wanted to report my findings.

I found noticeable but not drastic changes when playing with the 3 band EQ settings of the AmpPro. It does exactly what it says it does - it provides different frequency center points for bass, mid, and treble in addition to the Q of each, which is simply how many surrounding frequencies are affected when adjusting the center point up/down. The bass, mid, and treble frequency adjustments equate to a frequency range for each and, just like when you used to be able to use a multi-frequency EQ that you could adjust lots of small steps within the 20-20 range, these do the same thing without you actually seeing the results of it. So the ability to adjust where those center points are and how far away from that center point other frequencies within that same range are affected is kind of nice to have control over. It isn't going to be a huge difference but it does give you more options than you'd have with just stock. The next step up for control, of course, would be a DSP.

I also was curious to see what it would sound like to turn off the 3 band EQ setting. Is there a difference between stock EQ settings and the AmpPro settings? Turns out, there isn't much of a difference. Not that I could discern anyway. And I played a very diverse group of songs while doing an A/B test. Ultimately, there was enough of a difference with the AmpPro 3 Band EQ settings turned on and tweaked slightly to be pleasing to my ears. Yes, I'd eventually like to put in some more amps and a DSP along with replacing all of the stock speakers, but I'm not there yet and it gave me something to do with a positive outcome.

Just in case anyone may be wondering, here is the default 3 Band EQ settings and then what I ended up going with. I set my amp crossover by ear and appears to fall in the 65-70hz range - it isn't marked on the amp what the range is and I can't remember what the spec is but I do have a signal generator app on my iPhone that I use to sweep the frequencies and listen for crossover points so I'm fairly sure it is in that range. Because of these settings, my treble setting is at +3, mid is at -2, and bass is at 0.

Ok, here are answers to the questions that I anticipate will be asked (it always happens right?):

ANC: I have not bypassed ANC. I disconnected the stock sub and do not have any issues with ANC at all. I can't say why others have and I have not had problems with ANC but I can tell you that I don't have any issues at all.

Equipment used:
  • PAC AmpPro AP4-CH41 (can't figure out how to tell if it is an R.1 or an R.2 but I suspect it is an R.1 as it was on sale at Best Buy)
  • Leftover Rockford Fosgate 4awg amp kit
  • Kicker CX1200.1 mono amp (cheap, I know, but I just wanted to get it working within my budget)
  • Pair of Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 subs in a custom built enclosure that was built by a shop in either Texas or Florida (I can't remember what the guy I bought them from told me)
Location of amp: Behind the driver's side rear seat mounted to a piece of 1/2" plywood that was mounted to the back wall using Loctite PL Premium Max.

Again, I don't know if this will help many people, if anyone, but you never know.
 

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jsampsell

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any pics ?
I don't know why I didn't take any more pictures but here's one of the nearly finished work. I had to clean up my wiring and I wasn't happy with my false wall hand cuts so, believe it or not, I marked up using a straight edge and used my Dremel to clean up the opening. I really think the amp would have been fine behind the false wall without any cutting but I wanted relatively easy access to the amp for adjustments if needed so I cut the access hole. It seemed a bit larger than needed at first but once the seat went back in, I needed the extra space to get my hands in there comfortably.
 

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Ellisstrong

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I don't know why I didn't take any more pictures but here's one of the nearly finished work. I had to clean up my wiring and I wasn't happy with my false wall hand cuts so, believe it or not, I marked up using a straight edge and used my Dremel to clean up the opening. I really think the amp would have been fine behind the false wall without any cutting but I wanted relatively easy access to the amp for adjustments if needed so I cut the access hole. It seemed a bit larger than needed at first but once the seat went back in, I needed the extra space to get my hands in there comfortably.
Did you make any adjustments to the amppro volume levels? And would that make my highs and mids louder? I feel like my highs may not be as loud as they were prior to my sub and amppro install
 

jsampsell

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Did you make any adjustments to the amppro volume levels? And would that make my highs and mids louder? I feel like my highs may not be as loud as they were prior to my sub and amppro install
I did not. However, I’m fairly certain that it affects all of the signal output of the device so adjusting the output level is just going to make your issue louder over all. I wish there was an adjustment per output pair but there isn’t. Sounds like you’ll need to bring down the gain on the sub amp (assuming you are running it elevated, that is) to balance out the levels. I am particular about balance myself so I’m running just a slight uptick in gain for my amp.
 

Nibis

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My head hurts, LOL. I need to get my sub hooked up when it comes in, the Pac looks easy to install, but all I need is a signal for the amp. I pulled my radio today and spliced into what is supposed the right front channel, Gray wire + and Gray/Brown -. I hooked this up to my sub that I had in my Cherokee, but did't get any sound. So looks like I'll be getting the Pac. Just confused on the setting. Although it looks like you explained the the Q factor, I still don't understand it. But I guess if you don't use the EQ in the Pac, that doesn't matter, correct?
 

jsampsell

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My head hurts, LOL. I need to get my sub hooked up when it comes in, the Pac looks easy to install, but all I need is a signal for the amp. I pulled my radio today and spliced into what is supposed the right front channel, Gray wire + and Gray/Brown -. I hooked this up to my sub that I had in my Cherokee, but did't get any sound. So looks like I'll be getting the Pac. Just confused on the setting. Although it looks like you explained the the Q factor, I still don't understand it. But I guess if you don't use the EQ in the Pac, that doesn't matter, correct?
I didn't notice a difference between the default 3 band settings and the 3 band EQ turned off but, yes, it wouldn't matter. I wouldn't waste another thought on it if I were you though. I just happened to have some time and was curious to see if there was a noticeable difference. This probably wasn't the right forum to post these results on since there probably aren't enough audio geeks to really care. HA! Most people just want to get their sub(s) working and be on there way. Personally, I'd rather be playing around with DSP settings but I'm just not there yet with my build so I geeked out (arguably) on this.

That said, I can't speak to why the right front channel wires didn't work for you. The fact that you tapped into the wires behind the stereo suggests that you are getting the signal pre-amp so you'd think that you'd be getting a 20-20 signal before the amp does anything with it. That's assuming you have the Alpine or HK system though. I don't think the base system has an amp - which would further assume that you'd be getting a 20-20 signal. So, again, I ain't got no clue. I do know that the CANBUS systems today do some crazy stuff that just didn't exist in older cars so the older methods of picking up signals require more effort, if they can be used at all. The AmpPro makes it super easy since it ensures 20-20 but I've read on this forum of folks who have successfully used the LC7i and DSR1 in these trucks so I'd do some more research if you don't want to spend the money on the AmpPro.
 

Nibis

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I didn't notice a difference between the default 3 band settings and the 3 band EQ turned off but, yes, it wouldn't matter. I wouldn't waste another thought on it if I were you though. I just happened to have some time and was curious to see if there was a noticeable difference. This probably wasn't the right forum to post these results on since there probably aren't enough audio geeks to really care. HA! Most people just want to get their sub(s) working and be on there way. Personally, I'd rather be playing around with DSP settings but I'm just not there yet with my build so I geeked out (arguably) on this.

That said, I can't speak to why the right front channel wires didn't work for you. The fact that you tapped into the wires behind the stereo suggests that you are getting the signal pre-amp so you'd think that you'd be getting a 20-20 signal before the amp does anything with it. That's assuming you have the Alpine or HK system though. I don't think the base system has an amp - which would further assume that you'd be getting a 20-20 signal. So, again, I ain't got no clue. I do know that the CANBUS systems today do some crazy stuff that just didn't exist in older cars so the older methods of picking up signals require more effort, if they can be used at all. The AmpPro makes it super easy since it ensures 20-20 but I've read on this forum of folks who have successfully used the LC7i and DSR1 in these trucks so I'd do some more research if you don't want to spend the money on the AmpPro.
Thanks for the info. I orderd the Amp Pro Version 1 cause its on sale at best buy, for 209
 

ramButz

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i just install the "AmpPro Ap4".ran the rca to the amp.no sound.Hmmm:unsure:?tomorrow taking it in one of those "carAudio"shops.to take a look at .as to what i did wrong.everything lights up.but no sound!
 

Nibis

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i just install the "AmpPro Ap4".ran the rca to the amp.no sound.Hmmm:unsure:?tomorrow taking it in one of those "carAudio"shops.to take a look at .as to what i did wrong.everything lights up.but no sound!
Did you install the bass knob and turn the gain up? A few days after installing mine, I lost all sound, had to take it all apart and re-seat the cables. Still waiting on my sub box to come in.
 

ramButz

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Did you install the bass knob and turn the gain up? A few days after installing mine, I lost all sound, had to take it all apart and re-seat the cables. Still waiting on my sub box to come in.
thanks "Nibis"i did.i just came from and installer shop today.made and appointment.they will be able to figure it out.maybe they may do like what you did.is your now doing ok?
 

Nibis

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thanks "Nibis"i did.i just came from and installer shop today.made and appointment.they will be able to figure it out.maybe they may do like what you did.is your now doing ok?
So far its been good
 

Sonnie

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To clarify... if you got the PAC with the adjustable EQ settings (parametric EQ), then I believe you should have R.2, not gen 1. I've had gen 1 and it did not have the PEQ adjustments. Gen 1 has now been discontinued in favor of R.2.

I am glad to read you are not having any issue with the ANC with the PAC. I was hoping this would be the case, as I tried using the factory sub speakers leads into a JL LoC-22 and it amplified the ANC effect thru the aftermarket amp and into my Stealthbox, so I am not going to try the PAC R.2.
 

jsampsell

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To clarify... if you got the PAC with the adjustable EQ settings (parametric EQ), then I believe you should have R.2, not gen 1. I've had gen 1 and it did not have the PEQ adjustments. Gen 1 has now been discontinued in favor of R.2.

I am glad to read you are not having any issue with the ANC with the PAC. I was hoping this would be the case, as I tried using the factory sub speakers leads into a JL LoC-22 and it amplified the ANC effect thru the aftermarket amp and into my Stealthbox, so I am not going to try the PAC R.2.
Interestingly, I've recently purchased an ANC bypass harness because I felt like the amp and subs were being held back for some reason. It sounded much better than the factory sub, yes, but it didn't feel like I was getting the performance that I should have. I played around a little bit and then wondered if it could be the ANC system. I've had my factory sub unplugged since I put in the amp and subs so there was no way that could be it. I figured I'd give the bypass harness a try as a means of process of elimination and it definitely helped. The low end extension is there without having to raise the gain any. I had to turn the gain down almost completely once the bypass harness was installed. I'm much happier with the results now.

That said, I would try the ANC bypass harness before buying the PAC. I bought the LLJ Customs version for $15 and it shipped and arrived in about a week. They make them to order supposedly and then shipped slow boat from their shop in AZ. https://lljcustoms.com/store/ols/products/2019-ram-anc-bypass

The only thing I can think of that might make you have to do the PAC anyway is the signal that is going the factory sub. I don't know what frequency range is being sent. One would assume that if it was good enough for the factory sub that it should be good enough for any aftermarket sub setup. For $15, you'll know pretty quickly. Or you can de-pin the factory harness as shown elsewhere on this site to disconnect the ANC, but I preferred the harness so that I didn't have to mess with any of the factory wires.
 

Sonnie

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I have the ANC bypass, and there is no way I'd ever use it permanently, as it defeats my purpose of purchasing the RAM, which is a quiet ride, and I don't want anything to interfere with it. I used the PAC in my previous system with the sub unplugged and it was flawless. The ANC continued to take care of the unwanted noises without interfering with the audio system, just as it should. The ANC bypass shouldn't have any affect on the output signal of the PAC because the PAC cleans up the signal and sends a clean and flat signal to the aftermarket amp as the voltage level you select. So I'm not sure what's going on in your case with the gain being different with and without the PAC, that makes no sense to me, but it is what it is.
 

Nibis

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I installed a PAC, getting ready for my sub box when it comes in. I tested it on my other sub and was surprised how high I had turn the gain up
 

ramButz

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So far its been good
well finally fixed the problem.lucky for me i have a brother who understand this stuff a little better than me.first of all that "AmpPro"kit is a great interface for the "Ram".it really does making the installation a breeze.my only problem was an "Aftermarket"harness for the stock amp.it is to connect to the stock amp to the "afterMarket" amp.just fro the speaker wire.you just pull out the speaker harness plug that goes to you stock amp to your aftermarket one.its suppose to make it easier.instead it was a "NiteMare".we just removed it and went with the speaker wire from the doors to the amp instead.took longer but it worked."oldSchool"

 

Sonnie

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What was the nightmare? I know of the HK system the front door and dash speakers are the center plug on the amp, green w/ color stripes and gray w/ color stripes. I don't think there is an adapter to use there, but you could cut and tie into those wires to keep from having to fish thru the door jam, which is truly aggravating.
 

ramButz

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What was the nightmare? I know of the HK system the front door and dash speakers are the center plug on the amp, green w/ color stripes and gray w/ color stripes. I don't think there is an adapter to use there, but you could cut and tie into those wires to keep from having to fish thru the door jam, which is truly aggravating.

trying to use that "HarnessAdapter".it does fit perfect.but no sound would pass thru. going to the "Amp".so we decided to go the "OldSchool"route and just pass the speaker wire from the door,thru the cab to the amp."BAM"! worked perfectly.it was just a note to anyone thinking or attempt to go the route i did by using that adapter harness.lot of time to do that to not have it work. ..P.s as for the dash and roof speakers we stuck with the stock amp to run those.it worked out "GREAT!!" (y) (y) the fronts are(dash) are "Infinety".funny today was the first day when it was used,i finished today.didnt need a new "Sub"or anything like that.i guess the stock one is working...and it performed "Great"when we played this......at 70mph down the highway:love::LOL:(y)
 

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