Amp Powerstep

[Billet1500 4x4]

Yeah, I have a big gap like that on mine, still has a small vibration.

Does it only vibrate when the truck goes into 4 cylinder mode? Is it speed related or there all the time?

 

[cotonymopar]

Yeah, I have a big gap like that on mine, still has a small vibration.

wow, mine is smaller, and no vibration..... check to see if anything is catching or rubbing with the wiring... mine is great now..

 

[Deriggs007]

There at all time. It's pretty faint or i really got used to it.

Doesn't bother me, just odd that it happened after the steps were installed

 

[Deriggs007]

Here are some pics. I will get better ones if needed

Gap looks smaller on that angle but it’s there

Loosening the through bolt only allows me to move canister towards and away from frame. Not distance between the link and canister

 

[Deriggs007]

Here is a better pic of gap

 

[gr8ridn]

On my installation I have a little less than 1/4 inch clearance. As long as there is no contact when the bolt is tight and the step fully retracted you are golden. The vibration is not related to the steps if there is no physical contact. In my installation I saw the contact and adjusted for it before operating the steps after installation. There are rubberized stops in the linkage that control the fully retracted position. These are fast and powerful steps so the thud is expected when the motor load is increased on each end of travel. Your motors power draw is increased and the control module senses this. Whether the motor is being stopped by an object blocking the travel or the stops designed into the linkage the power will be cut to the motor and upon retry the motor will be reversed.

 

[cotonymopar]

is it up against the floor?

 

[Bacon.jd]

I have a vibration, and an audible buss through the steering column, as I slowly decelerate from 45-35 mph. I assumed it was from the wheels and tires I put on, since I did it pretty soon after the steps, but maybe I am wrong. I don’t feel/hear it at normal acceleration through those speeds, or with more braking action on decel. I’ll have to look at the vibration canisters when I get home.

 

[Deriggs007]

Thanks for the input.

There is no contact with the cannister from the powersteps at all. It's odd that the vibration started immediately after install. It's not bad, seems more noticeable at a stop light than any other time.

I will try to disconnect the powersteps to see if that makes a difference. If it does, we know it has something to do with them being plugged in, despite the function of the module.

There has to be some power going through to it to detect the opening/closing of the doors.

 

[RamCares]

I have a vibration, and an audible buss through the steering column, as I slowly decelerate from 45-35 mph. I assumed it was from the wheels and tires I put on, since I did it pretty soon after the steps, but maybe I am wrong. I don’t feel/hear it at normal acceleration through those speeds, or with more braking action on decel. I’ll have to look at the vibration canisters when I get home.

Hi Bacon.jd,

Although I cannot provide any technical advice, if you decide to work with your dealer on this, don't hesitate to let us know. We're available via direct message and would be happy to assist with the servicing process.

Jasmine
Ram Social Care Specialist

 

[gr8ridn]

There is no contact with the cannister from the powersteps at all. It's odd that the vibration started immediately after install. It's not bad, seems more noticeable at a stop light than any other time.

I will try to disconnect the powersteps to see if that makes a difference. If it does, we know it has something to do with them being plugged in, despite the function of the module.

There has to be some power going through to it to detect the opening/closing of the doors.

Hard to tell from your pictures due to orientation of the shot. It appears you might be way off on the position of the canister. Looking at it it appears to be touching the frame or cab floor. This would cause vibrations you feel. My suggestion is to look at the canister position on the right side and reset your left side to mirror that orientation. Then you adjust the clearance for the linkage by using very small adjustments from the stock position. The canister only has to have a small gap from the linkage to eliminate the vibration transfer and contact when the steps are retracted. The position of the canister should be very close to the original position when all is said and done. It is quite possible the factory position is tuned to best cancel the vibrations. Large changes in canister angle might reduce the vibration cancellation function..

 

[Deriggs007]

Hard to tell from your pictures due to orientation of the shot. It appears you might be way off on the position of the canister. Looking at it it appears to be touching the frame or cab floor. This would cause vibrations you feel. My suggestion is to look at the canister position on the right side and reset your left side to mirror that orientation. Then you adjust the clearance for the linkage by using very small adjustments from the stock position. The canister only has to have a small gap from the linkage to eliminate the vibration transfer and contact when the steps are retracted. The position of the canister should be very close to the original position when all is said and done. It is quite possible the factory position is tuned to best cancel the vibrations. Large changes in canister angle might reduce the vibration cancellation function..

Just so we're clear. The cannister IS the part myself and previous poster posted here, correct?

If so, when I loosen the bolt, it can rotate forward (towards the steps) and backwards, towards the underbody of the truck. There is no left/right movement as there are 2-3 other bolts connected.

The powersteps are close, but there is not contact with the steps retracted. I'll take some better photos as those were quick shots as it was raining.

When the steps retract, I just don't see any contact of anything. I could be mistaken, so I'll look. If you could provide more pics of what yours looks like, I can try and reproduce it.

 

[rickj]

Slight hijack here...

We just picked up a 2019 Ram Laramie 4X4 with no side steps. My wife is small and has bad knees so she really struggles to get in right. It's not optional - we must get some fixed side steps or the Amp Research ones. For those that have the Amp Research powered step I wanted to know if the step (when lowered) is actually lower and farther away from the body than the fixed unit. We have the Mopar fixed side steps on our Durango and I think they're largely useless. They are so close to the body that you can't pretty much have to place your foot perpendicular to the vehicle to use the step. It's also only 7 inches lower. I don't need to use it, but Marilyn tells me that she doesn't use them as they're mostly just in the way. Are the fixed steps on the Ram pretty close to the body and not that much lower? For a person that really does need a step to get in, do the Amp Research ones make more sense? Thanks in advance!

End of hijack.

 

[Deriggs007]

It's personal preference.

I like the powersteps more than just regular sidesteps because yes, they do go lower than normal steps. My boss and I trade off driving when going to lunch with other co-workers. Some of them are retired vets with bad knees or knee surgery etc. They told me they prefered the power running boards because it's easier to step into the truck, where as my co-workers fixed steps (on a standard F-150) was a bit more of a climb.

It's somewhat hard to explain, but with the powersteps, it's like you're taking 2 equal steps to get into the vehicle, with fixed ones... it's like you're still stepping up a bit, then sliding into the vehicle... if that makes sense.

 

[Bacon.jd]

Amp does have the XL version, they claim it’s designed for taller lifted trucks, but it really just brings the step down even further, which may be a help for you. AI went with the Power step because I like that fact that they tuck up and almost hide under the truck, and on my gen 4, that was lifted 6” and on 35’s, they were much more useful than standard running boards or tube steps. The XL version does have a bit more of a rock slider look, and doesn’t tuck up as neatly as the standard version.

 

[gr8ridn]

Just so we're clear. The cannister IS the part myself and previous poster posted here, correct?

If so, when I loosen the bolt, it can rotate forward (towards the steps) and backwards, towards the underbody of the truck. There is no left/right movement as there are 2-3 other bolts connected.

The powersteps are close, but there is not contact with the steps retracted. I'll take some better photos as those were quick shots as it was raining.

When the steps retract, I just don't see any contact of anything. I could be mistaken, so I'll look. If you could provide more pics of what yours looks like, I can try and reproduce it.

I will try to get photo for you tomorrow. Most of the photos I have seen on this thread are hard to understand because they are taken from different angles. I will try to get a photo looking from the front to the canister and linkage if that shows what I am talking about.

 

[Deriggs007]

Bump on this @gr8ridn

I still have the humming problem. Hopefully this is something I can work on this weekend if it doesn't rain. It's the only issue with my truck and it's annoying.

 

[SilverSurfer15]

Just an FYI for everyone with amps (not related to this necessarily)

if your steps make a really loud clunk noise, like metal ting noise type of deal, the bushing inside might not be aligned/centered. It will sound like it’s hitting something under the truck but won’t be.

I could take a photo of this but basically if you open the door, then catch the step about 3” up give or take (really just anywhere half way) and manually stop it. On the back of the arm is a single bolt. 7/16 I think but I might be off. You can loosen that bolt 2 turns or so, DO NOT remove it, it just needs to not be tight. Then tap the arm/joint with a dead blow hammer or rubber mallet. Something rubber. It doesn’t require much force, and you won’t be able to even swing it very hard at the angle required to tap it. But you can beat on it a few times and it will release any tension on the joint and self align. Then just tighten the bolt up again. It should feel smoother and the “bad” noise should go away.

 

[Dodson]

got it, its on the front side of the driver side canister…. IT guy here also, but also used to write install articles for Dodge truck website.. the bolt the canister (black part) is connected to. loosen that and you can adjust it.. View attachment 20954View attachment 20955

Thanks for info works perfect now

 

[Papaneil]

Hey “gr8ridn” - Thanks for the information regarding the vibration cancellation device. I did hear a noice like a humming after I installed my amp running boards. It wasn’t all the time but noticeable at times. I moved the device by about 1/4” so the arm wasn’t touching this device and perfect - the humming is gone!!! I didn’t notice it touching when I installed them. Great information.

Check your driver side near the front powered link mechanism. When I installed my kit I found the board made contact with the vibration cancellation device that is the black drum attached to the frame. When the drum is powered it could actually be adding vibration to the truck when in contact with the step. The solution is to loosen the bolt attaching the drum to the bracket and clocking the drum so there is no contact with the step when it is fully retracted. You only need a little clearance and then tighten the bolt to secure the drum to the mount. The right frame device is clear of the step.

No vibration on my installation when I saw the contact and corrected it. The right and left steps close with the same sound.