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Alpine 9+1 system "Subwoofer" findings, polarity, and options

rsonedecker

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Pulled the factory sub box last night after checking the polarity and found it to be out-of-phase* like the rest of the speakers** (see the other posts on this "phenomenon") - The really weird thing is that the sub terminals themselves were wired backwards (black wires were positive); I'm betting there's a separate subwoofer part number for non-ANC vehicles.

I repinned the subwoofer wiring connector and stuffed the box with some acousta-stuf fill, and put some Kilmat in some strategic locations. Sad to say that while the base is definitely tighter, it's still overpowered by the front door woofers. It's definitely in phase now, as I still have the factory front door speakers in (hopefully putting my CDTs in this afternoon), and you can hear/feel the front doors and rear sub fighting with each other. But either way, I can tell that the doors are still going to be overpowering the rear sub even once in phase.

Has anyone thought about putting some 150hz base blockers on the front doors? But...feel that the rear sub isn't even close to good enough, and while that might create some separation, the base would probably end up being non-existent.

I don't think you're going to be able to fit much in place of the factory sub in that box, and you will need a 3/4" - 1" spacer (or more) because the mounting surface is recessed into the box (the mounting plane of the sub is about center to the height of the sub). Shooting myself that I didn't take pics, hopefully there are some here on the site(?).

I'm looking for a seamlessly-integrated solution, but I don't think the factory box is big enough nor does it have any redeeming acoustic features, lol. So it seems like retaining that box and putting something else in is redundant, not to mention you're faced with losing a channel of power since anything else out there is 2 VC (not triple VC like factory) -plus I don't think anythings going to fit in there without a big spacer. Does anyone make anything yet to replace the entire box?

* Out-of-phase in the sense that positive signal from amp is mapped to negative terminal on speaker
** Except the front left dash speaker
 

CouchAssault

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i'm sure any positive impacts that you made stuffing/lining the box were negated by now being out of phase with the doors. i had considered doing it but it would just be a waste of time, considering my end goal.

i'm going to remove the factory sub and put my amplifier in its place. then put the sub woofer enclosure under the back seats. there just isn't enough room behind the back seats for the output i'm looking for.
 

ksn240

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Interesting. Pioneer has a very slim 8" dual voice coil sub as does Kicker. Even losing a channel I am betting it would sound better if it would fit. Unfortunately I doubt there is ever a true plug and play replacement for it due to location and space restraints. I will likely be putting dual 10s or dual 12s underneath the seat in the future, just wish there was a ported box that didn't cover the in floor bins. I will probably get am Undercover swing box to put in the bed that way I can use that instead, just to put a few tools, straps, gloves, etc in.
 

rsonedecker

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So I put the CDTs in the front doors this afternoon (in-phase) and it sounds really good now that everything is in-phase.
 

rsonedecker

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Interesting. Pioneer has a very slim 8" dual voice coil sub as does Kicker. Even losing a channel I am betting it would sound better if it would fit. Unfortunately I doubt there is ever a true plug and play replacement for it due to location and space restraints. I will likely be putting dual 10s or dual 12s underneath the seat in the future, just wish there was a ported box that didn't cover the in floor bins. I will probably get am Undercover swing box to put in the bed that way I can use that instead, just to put a few tools, straps, gloves, etc in.
I wish I would have measured the "potential" depth of the box (with a spacer) to see if the Pioneer could drop in. They can be had for like $75, so it might be worth it to try and see.

Do you think the third channel would need a dummy load on it?
 

ksn240

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I wish I would have measured the "potential" depth of the box (with a spacer) to see if the Pioneer could drop in. They can be had for like $75, so it might be worth it to try and see.

Do you think the third channel would need a dummy load on it?
Somebody else on here replaced the sub. They removed the factory sub and used some room under the back seat for it. They only used 2 channels and left the third alone and started there were no issues. That post is buried on this forum somewhere.
 

rsonedecker

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Somebody else on here replaced the sub. They removed the factory sub and used some room under the back seat for it. They only used 2 channels and left the third alone and started there were no issues. That post is buried on this forum somewhere.
Well, dang it. For some reason I just got an order receipt for a Pioneer that looks to be shipping my way...No idea why....
 

ksn240

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Well, dang it. For some reason I just got an order receipt for a Pioneer that looks to be shipping my way...No idea why....
Haha let me know how it pans out. I've got some 8" Kickers sitting in the garage but they are 1 ohm dual voice coils. Don't think the factory amp would like that. Pretty sure I will just add an under seat box with a couple 10s in the future but wouldn't mind a cheap upgrade to get me to that point.
 

wildh24

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Disconnecting the factory sub and replacing with aftermarket made a YUGE difference. Completely changed the game for me. Made me realize the factory sub is crap.
 

Yedi

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Really hoping someone comes out with a plug and play amp and woofer, for either the same location behind the seat, or under it. Would be nice to just be able to plug into the factory plug, maybe run an additional power wire/ground. Seems very feasible.

Other wise in time I'll be adding something on my own. I did all the deadening inside the doors and poly fill the sub box, helped.

Just miss the really deep punching bass. Amazing how much bass the stock 6x9s put out.
 

Hackmunch

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you can disconnect one channel and you will be fine. i posted awhile back about the sub being out of phase and also the front doors. they are that way because of the anc. adding an aftermarket sub amp will mess with the anc especially if you use the amps sub output as your aftermarket amp input. i ended up disconnecting the anc and cant really tell any difference. i did an ultimax 10" under the passenger rear seat running off a hertz dcp1 amp. sounds great.
 

rsonedecker

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you can disconnect one channel and you will be fine. i posted awhile back about the sub being out of phase and also the front doors. they are that way because of the anc. adding an aftermarket sub amp will mess with the anc especially if you use the amps sub output as your aftermarket amp input. i ended up disconnecting the anc and cant really tell any difference. i did an ultimax 10" under the passenger rear seat running off a hertz dcp1 amp. sounds great.
I'm going to try to put a pioneer 8" shallow dual-vc sub in the factory box for now (needs 1.5" of spacers though since the box is extremely shallow), and I'll be leaving the third channel accessible so that I can expand in the future.
Pics to come.

 

DSOOBY

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I'm going to try to put a pioneer 8" shallow dual-vc sub in the factory box for now (needs 1.5" of spacers though since the box is extremely shallow), and I'll be leaving the third channel accessible so that I can expand in the future.
Pics to come.

Keep us posted, take pictures! I've been thinking about doing this myself, but have been waiting for someone else to show proof of concept.
 

Hackmunch

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the problem with the factory enclosure is its weak. it needs to be fiberglassed to add strength. it rattles like hell against the back wall of these trucks.
 

Yedi

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I'm going to try to put a pioneer 8" shallow dual-vc sub in the factory box for now (needs 1.5" of spacers though since the box is extremely shallow), and I'll be leaving the third channel accessible so that I can expand in the future.
Pics to come.


cant wait to hear your progress with this. Ive also thought, what about a larger box, with a different sub running off the factory amp? would be great to have the time and resources to experiment with this. I would like to keep the system as stock as possible. But definetly needs more deep bass.
 

tdrogers

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Hello everyone, New member and mostly a reader. I have a master tech at BestBuy here in Jacksonville that is installing a 10' kicker 43cwrt102 purchased my single sub box from supercrewsound.com for about $130. amp is Kicker CXA6001 600-WATT mono class D. I have my install 4 Apr. After I will upload photos.
 

Conch007

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Interesting. Pioneer has a very slim 8" dual voice coil sub as does Kicker. Even losing a channel I am betting it would sound better if it would fit. Unfortunately I doubt there is ever a true plug and play replacement for it due to location and space restraints. I will likely be putting dual 10s or dual 12s underneath the seat in the future, just wish there was a ported box that didn't cover the in floor bins. I will probably get am Undercover swing box to put in the bed that way I can use that instead, just to put a few tools, straps, gloves, etc in.
Let me know if it works. I went I. To get an estimate on mine and they said they would have to cut one wire to the sound cancellation system I said no thanks I can’t have anyone cutting wires if it’s not plug and play I don’t want it
 

tdrogers

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Understand, I will be asking a few questions before starts. That's why i'm only adding Sub. I don't want him behind my dash
 

GOATinstructor

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So, I unpinned the factory alpine sub and used that to feed my new amp input.

After toying with settings for a while, I decided to order a PAC Amppro to get a clean feed, and now I want to return the factory sub to stock.

Does anyone have a pic or diagram of which wires feed the stock sub? The stock sub connector has different color wires than the amp lines feeding it and I want to get it right.

Thanks!
 

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