Aftermarket Amp and 12” sub install in a HK LIMITED!

[franc944]

I’m starting this thread to show the integration I am working on to install a single JL Audio 12w3t-v2 in a custom under seat mdf box with a JL 500/1 series mono amp.

Check out the rice method of building the box to an exact .85 cubic feet minus the sub.

 

[19RAMSRU]

Wow, that is going to be awesome!

 

[Rammit]

Looks good. Nice job on the box, looks like it will fit perfectly.

 

[sticker500]

Thanks for sharing this, I am excited to see how this gets connected!

 

[franc944]

My goal is more bass and louder high end overall.

I’ve decided to have a MDF box custom built for under the passenger back seat.

The amp is a old JL 500/1 that will be mounted under the driver side back seat or on the back wall behind the back seat.

A 10” would be too boring so I am going to try and make a JL Audio 12” 12w3t4 work. I figure a 12” screen warrants a 12” sub. I need .85 cubic feet I plan to rice fill the box to measure volume to get the size of the box as exact as possible due to the irregular rear angles.

So far I have mocked up the sub box in cardboard and run 4 gauge through the firewall for the amp.

I’ll put up more pics as I go as I intend to take this project kinda slow and make it perfect as far as OEM integration.

It will be tough to out do the set up I had in my 2013 Longhorn but I am trying.

Input and experience is welcome.

Do you guys think I need to add a resistor to prevent the system from shutting down if I just disconnect and use the stock sub bass output and feed that to the JL amp?

This guy said he needed a resistor for the highs with a processor:

 

[franc944]

In my predecessor truck a 2013 Ram with stock Alpine sub I had very good luck just taking signal from the stock sub wire. The real reason behind that was to retain the stock subwoofer control. I believe it sounded good because it was already crossed over low.

I will likely start with that again on this truck (stock sub signal) because I like the idea of the stock integrated fader which I believe I would loose with a signal processor or electronic crossover although I realize that option offers way more tunability.


The amp I have which is a JL Audio 500/1 known as the old Slash series is self adjusting when it comes to inputs so I just run stock subwoofer signal right into the RCAs and the amp does the rest no need for LOC line out converters. Here is a pic of a black vinyl covered board I will mount the amp to behind the passenger side back seat.

 

[knightro84]

In for updates. I have a JL 10W7AE that I have pipe dreams of fitting somewhere, but needing 8" of mounting depth and 1.25 cu ft for a sealed box I'm not sure I'm going to be able to make it work.

 

[franc944]

Not a chance my friend. no way to get the depth or a box that big, that would be double the size of the box I'm making.

 

[franc944]

Here is the box I had upholstered for my 2013 longhorn.

That’s a 10w3. .65 cubic feet.

The new box will look similar but obviously with limited style piping and stitching.

 

[Jordan2929]

Have him make two of those boxes and I'll gladly "test" the other one. lol

 

[franc944]

Cost on the 12” sub is $350, labor to build box and install amp $300, upholstery $150

You are welcome to build your own from the dimentions in the pic or call the shop I used.

All in it’s a $800 upgrade for me and that’s because I already own the $500+ amp and had 4 gauge etc laying around.

 

[GATORB8]

How are you getting around active noise cancelling?

 

[franc944]

The signal is coming from the stock sub output. So there should be no issue we can foresee with the active noise cancellation system.

So far the rest of the HK sound system works with the stock sub disconnected. No resistor required.

The active noise cancellation should work as designed with an aftermarket amp and sub because it is taking signal after the stock amp at the back of the truck.

Also the new box is close to the same position as stock.

We haven’t heard it or tuned it yet. That happens tomorrow.

We learned today the fuse box contained fuses smaller than standard that we have never seen before. Also it’s no fun getting to the fuse box under the steering column.

We are still looking for a spot for amp turn on signal wire to tap into. Using a fuse tap at that fuse box is out because no one makes a fuse tap for that type of fuse YET.

 

[RedRamRedRam]

The signal is coming from the stock sub output. So there should be no issue we can foresee with the active noise cancellation system.

So far the rest of the HK sound system works with the stock sub disconnected. No resistor required.

The active noise cancellation should work as designed with an aftermarket amp and sub because it is taking signal after the stock amp at the back of the truck.

Also the new box is close to the same position as stock.

We haven’t heard it or tuned it yet. That happens tomorrow.

We learned today the fuse box contained fuses smaller than standard that we have never seen before. Also it’s no fun getting to the fuse box under the steering column.

We are still looking for a spot for amp turn on signal wire to tap into. Using a fuse tap at that fuse box is out because no one makes a fuse tap for that type of fuse YET.

I find it hard to believe that there were no remote power signal options between the back of the cab to the steering wheel you couldn’t tap in to. The factory amp didn’t have one you could put a tap on?

 

[19RamLimited]

If you are doing a full system the iDatalink DSR1 is great for this, it works with The HK system maintains all the factory prompts and voice options as well as giving a full range output.

 

[franc944]

Another step closer.

Sounds great. Next is the software update and upholstery shop

 

[Jordan2929]

Super slean install, I'm impressed with your's and your audio guy's attention to detail.

 

[Leif_Ram2019]

This looks great! Where did you eventually get remote power signal? And what software update do you need?

 

[sticker500]

The signal is coming from the stock sub output. So there should be no issue we can foresee with the active noise cancellation system.

So far the rest of the HK sound system works with the stock sub disconnected. No resistor required.

The active noise cancellation should work as designed with an aftermarket amp and sub because it is taking signal after the stock amp at the back of the truck.

Also the new box is close to the same position as stock.

We haven’t heard it or tuned it yet. That happens tomorrow.

We learned today the fuse box contained fuses smaller than standard that we have never seen before. Also it’s no fun getting to the fuse box under the steering column.

We are still looking for a spot for amp turn on signal wire to tap into. Using a fuse tap at that fuse box is out because no one makes a fuse tap for that type of fuse YET.

Just a remote turn on should be when ignition on right ? Look at bottom one that is 12v when ignition on. The top one is 12v constant. Use them for dashcam

 

[franc944]

Remote power to turn on the amp did come from the fuse block under the steering column. It was not easy to get to and I cannot tell you the type of fuse tap we used. My installer had it in his junk box. He said it’s the same fuse they had to use in a Ford Flex or something.

Attached is a pic of the service bulletin on the software flash needed to make the system play louder.

Also a pic of said fuse box tap to turn on the amp

This looks great! Where did you eventually get remote power signal? And what software update do you need?