Adding passive entry

[MannymanX]

what kind of watch you got there? I'm a watch nut and that looks nice!

lol me too! i have some nice watches.. the one in the gif is a Breitling Galactic 44. Sorry about the bezel

 

[Bram2019]

Can anyone confirm when they are doing their harness, I'm curious if the door lock/latch mechanism is a single 4 pin inline connector, or a double 4-pin inline connector. My door latch is a single 4-pin, but my new harness was a double 4-pin (so 8-pins with 5-wires used). I ended up splicing the connector from my old harness to the new harness. But I'm curious for when I go to do the passenger door, if I should gamble with a new harness or not. If I'm in there soldering and stuff already, I might as well just run my own wires.

Just curious what you other folks are finding.

Also, for what its worth, I only did my driver door so far. And it works great. I do have 2 faults stored, which I really dont care about for the time being. I have an Antenna 5 open circuit (which is the tailgate antenna missing) and I have passenger door handle sensor open circuit (I didn't do passenger door yet). Not sure if I will honestly. Dont know that it would ever get used. And The way my grand Cherokee works with factory passive, is if someone is over there, the handle doesn't work - the key fob has to be physically on that side of the vehicle for the buttons to work. So passenger would need key fob in their pocket for the passenger side to work. I've verified this with grand Cherokee, so I'm assuming our trucks are the same.

On the drivers door latch, the 5.7 etorque has an 8 way plug, 5 populated. On non etorque it is a 4 way plug all populated. Pretty strange.

 

[mike_ct]

On the drivers door latch, the 5.7 etorque has an 8 way plug, 5 populated. On non etorque it is a 4 way plug all populated. Pretty strange.

ohh wow thats bizarre. when i spliced the old 4 pin plug on, 4 of the colors/gauges were the same, so i matched them up, and left the 5th wire disconnected and it worked. I wonder what the heck that 5th wire has to do with the e-torque system or the stop/start something or other?

 

[Swifty]

Can anyone confirm when they are doing their harness, I'm curious if the door lock/latch mechanism is a single 4 pin inline connector, or a double 4-pin inline connector. My door latch is a single 4-pin, but my new harness was a double 4-pin (so 8-pins with 5-wires used). I ended up splicing the connector from my old harness to the new harness. But I'm curious for when I go to do the passenger door, if I should gamble with a new harness or not. If I'm in there soldering and stuff already, I might as well just run my own wires.

Just curious what you other folks are finding.

Also, for what its worth, I only did my driver door so far. And it works great. I do have 2 faults stored, which I really dont care about for the time being. I have an Antenna 5 open circuit (which is the tailgate antenna missing) and I have passenger door handle sensor open circuit (I didn't do passenger door yet). Not sure if I will honestly. Dont know that it would ever get used. And The way my grand Cherokee works with factory passive, is if someone is over there, the handle doesn't work - the key fob has to be physically on that side of the vehicle for the buttons to work. So passenger would need key fob in their pocket for the passenger side to work. I've verified this with grand Cherokee, so I'm assuming our trucks are the same.

for some reason mike the harness that it calls for on some left sides are 8 pin with 5 wires I ran into this on one I just changed the connector with original one and had a left over wire that I taped back to harness right side harness have always been correct 4 pin

 

[Bram2019]

ohh wow thats bizarre. when i spliced the old 4 pin plug on, 4 of the colors/gauges were the same, so i matched them up, and left the 5th wire disconnected and it worked. I wonder what the heck that 5th wire has to do with the e-torque system or the stop/start something or other?

It is a secondary door ajar sense for the etorque. No idea how it works.

 

[MannymanX]

It is a secondary door ajar sense for the etorque. No idea how it works.

Mine has eTurque and I have the 4 pin connector... weird

 

[Rons5thgen]

I modified my harness. Didn't buy the Mopar part. No one has it in stock.

For "how to", check out posts:
#269
#287

Oh, it was you hat did that. where did you come up with the pins for the plug?

 

[Rons5thgen]

lol me too! i have some nice watches.. the one in the gif is a Breitling Galactic 44. Sorry about the bezel View attachment 54450

and l am on the other side of the world, l havn't worn a watch for more then 15 years. l think i have one, somewhere, nice watch.

 

[Bram2019]

Oh, it was you hat did that. where did you come up with the pins for the plug?

If you want the male pins for the plug at the door post. theelectricaldepot.com The part number is 54001801. Sold in bag of 25. They are Apex 2.8 male or Delphi 10762775. Maybe Mouser. I am reasonably sure that is correct. You can check the picture on the site to verify.

 

[Mopar4295]

Ok folks Success!!! I now have functioning proximity entry on my 2020 bighorn crew cab

Swifty, I sent you a private message. Please respond at your earliest convenience. Thank you!

 

[McTickleStick]

So I received my handles and caps today. Obviously still stuck in the tar pit over the VIN code being added (considering raiding FCA's offices in the middle of the night and adding he codes myself... who's with me??)

But I have seen many posts about also needing a wiring harness? I thought if I had the Customer Preferred Package 25Z and the Big Horn Level 2 Equip group, the harness was not needed as it is already wired for this feature? Is that correct?

 

[MannymanX]

So I received my handles and caps today. Obviously still stuck in the tar pit over the VIN code being added (considering raiding FCA's offices in the middle of the night and adding he codes myself... who's with me??)

But I have seen many posts about also needing a wiring harness? I thought if I had the Customer Preferred Package 25Z and the Big Horn Level 2 Equip group, the harness was not needed as it is already wired for this feature? Is that correct?

If you don't have passive entry, your door is not ready for it. Hence it's not wired

 

[parnine]

Hi All - just wanted to report back. After getting the restore vehicle configuration Monday, I decided to install the driver door handle, cap, and harness. Viola! It works! Thanks Swifty for the hook up. Maybe I'll do the passenger door at some point.

And now, a few pointers I'll share that might help others out.
Basically, you take your time, its not difficult, just some parts are a pain.
The "cliff" notes if you will are as follows.
3 bolts and pop-clips, door panel comes off. They are tight.
I then pull the door-boot away from a-pillar, popped the connector out, and unplugged the truck plugs.
then the whole harness falls inside the door.
Remove the inner-door card (inner panel).
*To do this first, lower window almost al the way so bolts line up in the lower rubber plugs.
Unbolt window, and manually pull window up to top. I taped it up with duct tape.
Then, take all the inner panel bolts out. It won't remove fully yet. You'll have to flex the front enough to fit your arm into the door hollow, and there are 2 bolts from the inside, towards the back. You'll feel its still attached towards the back. I used a 8mm ratchet wrench, and took both bolts out.
As you're working, unplug whatever wires are necessary. Just use common sense.
You'll also have to reach in to the latch mechanism to unplug the last wire..its tight in there. kind of a pain.
The door inner panel should be off now.
To change the handle and cap, you pop the little plastic cap from the door jam surface right inline with the handle.
Its a T25 torx I think, you'll need a long one. A socket won't fit.
Unscrew all the way. Then, cap & key cylinder will pop or fall off. Then, handle pulls back, and pops out.
Reverse steps to reinstall new handle and cap, tighten that torx. Test for operation.
Replace the harness on the inner panel.
Then you have to plug the latch mechanism, and route the new door handle wire, around the back of the window guide, and it snaps into the bottom of the handle mechanism, there are are like clips to hold it, and finally plug it in to the handle. There's just enough wire. Kind of a pain to do this part. Its difficult to use your hand in this tight spot.
Then, you can bolt the inner panel back on. Don't forget to pull the lock push button and inner latch cable back thru.
Then, you can work thru the speaker hole to push the harness out the hole and reconnection to a-pilar.
The new harness needed to finagle because it was like bent the wrong way, and twisted up.
Then untape the glass and lower it back to the guides, and line up the 2 bolts and put them in.
at this point, I'd reconnect your power window buttons, and do a function test.
Make sure window goes up and down, make sure power locks working, and you can then test the new handle!

***Just a note - the new harness, did not fit my latch mechanism. The connectors were different. The wire colors were the same, so I decided to just hack it off and splice the old connector on. 4 colors matched up, and it works properly. I could probably have ordered a different harness, but I figured I'd try it, and if it works, I'd leave it.

Finally got it all installed - Can not thank Swifty and mike_ct enough, THANK you both and the others contributed to this thread !!

As mike_ct points out, those 2 8mm bolts that you have to reach from inside the door are definitely a 'pain', as is running the new wire up to the handle (be sure to get it routed correctly so it fits into all the 'clips', but other than those minor difficulties, with mike_ct's great write up it is a 'piece of cake'

 

[parnine]

@Swifty - quick question: If I use the door 'lock/unlock' switch to lock the doors before exiting (drive door open, using lock switch in door lock the doors, all doors lock) and then I exit the vehicle with the Key FOB in my pocket, and then close the driver door (all other doors are closed), I get 3 horn beeps and all doors unlock.

I've read that this might be due to a low battery in the FOB (not my case), FOB in the vehicle (not my case) and also see hints that it could be related to a missing antenna or possible because I don't have the handle for the passenger front door (I only installed driver door).

Do you know why I"m getting the 3 beeps and all doors unlocking?

How would I find out if I have the rear antenna and do you think missing this is causing the problem?

Or is it because I don't have the passenger door handle installed, or both no passenger handle and missing antenna?

Not a biggie since I can now lock all the doors using the new handle, but curious and am in the habit of locking the truck in that manner (push the lock switch in the door as I exit and then close the door).

Man it is going to be nice to just leave my FOB in my pocket and never have to touch it!! basically like I thought the truck was going to work when i bought it

 

[mike_ct]

th

@Swifty - quick question: If I use the door 'lock/unlock' switch to lock the doors before exiting (drive door open, using lock switch in door lock the doors, all doors lock) and then I exit the vehicle with the Key FOB in my pocket, and then close the driver door (all other doors are closed), I get 3 horn beeps and all doors unlock.

I've read that this might be due to a low battery in the FOB (not my case), FOB in the vehicle (not my case) and also see hints that it could be related to a missing antenna or possible because I don't have the handle for the passenger front door (I only installed driver door).

Do you know why I"m getting the 3 beeps and all doors unlocking?

How would I find out if I have the rear antenna and do you think missing this is causing the problem?

Or is it because I don't have the passenger door handle installed, or both no passenger handle and missing antenna?

Not a biggie since I can now lock all the doors using the new handle, but curious and am in the habit of locking the truck in that manner (push the lock switch in the door as I exit and then close the door).

Man it is going to be nice to just leave my FOB in my pocket and never have to touch it!! basically like I thought the truck was going to work when i bought it

The 3 beeps, its part of the warning system, called Key_Fobik_Safe - its a warning, that you *may* be locking a fob inside the vehicle.

I turned mine off. If you have alfaobd, you can find the setting in the BCM called Fobik_Safe_Enable, and set it to no/disable..no more 3 beeps.

 

[parnine]

th

The 3 beeps, its part of the warning system, called Key_Fobik_Safe - its a warning, that you *may* be locking a fob inside the vehicle.

I turned mine off. If you have alfaobd, you can find the setting in the BCM called Fobik_Safe_Enable, and set it to no/disable..no more 3 beeps.

Thanks mike_ct ! I continued to search as found waaaaayyy back in this thread a year ago you or JasonMarsh the mention of this 'feature'. Do you know if it can be disabled in the normal 'Multimedia' center (I've got the 8.4 4C [no Nav] I went through all the screen and could not find anything.

Might be my final excuse to get Alfaobd (but I'm apple guy so would need some andriod device also .....)

Just to confirm - you were able to turn it off and have the switch lock button in the door work as before ?

Again, no real biggie, it is just that is my current habit to lock the truck, push that button and close the door - guess I can get in the habit of pushing the button on the handle now LOL

And one would think for the $75 were paying for theses colored handles they could make the button the same color and not black !!!

 

[mike_ct]

Thanks mike_ct ! I continued to search as found waaaaayyy back in this thread a year ago you or JasonMarsh the mention of this 'feature'. Do you know if it can be disabled in the normal 'Multimedia' center (I've got the 8.4 4C [no Nav] I went through all the screen and could not find anything.

Might be my final excuse to get Alfaobd (but I'm apple guy so would need some andriod device also .....)

Just to confirm - you were able to turn it off and have the switch lock button in the door work as before ?

Again, no real biggie, it is just that is my current habit to lock the truck, push that button and close the door - guess I can get in the habit of pushing the button on the handle now LOL

And one would think for the $75 were paying for theses colored handles they could make the button the same color and not black !!!

yes once its disabled, you can lock using the inside power lock button and shut the close, and no beeps.
unfortunately, its not an option that shows up on the uconnect menus.
yeah its a good reason to get an alfaobd setup. you'll need a security bypass too.

 

[MannymanX]

Finally got it all installed - Can not thank Swifty and mike_ct enough, THANK you both and the others contributed to this thread !!

As mike_ct points out, those 2 8mm bolts that you have to reach from inside the door are definitely a 'pain', as is running the new wire up to the handle (be sure to get it routed correctly so it fits into all the 'clips', but other than those minor difficulties, with mike_ct's great write up it is a 'piece of cake'

Good deal! Enjoy it.

 

[Rons5thgen]

th

The 3 beeps, its part of the warning system, called Key_Fobik_Safe - its a warning, that you *may* be locking a fob inside the vehicle.

I turned mine off. If you have alfaobd, you can find the setting in the BCM called Fobik_Safe_Enable, and set it to no/disable..no more 3 beeps.

mike_ct, does alphaobd have the capability to do “vehicle config restore” ? l emailed this question to alphaobe and got no responce. What say you?

 

[Rons5thgen]

yes once its disabled, you can lock using the inside power lock button and shut the close, and no beeps.
unfortunately, its not an option that shows up on the uconnect menus.
yeah its a good reason to get an alfaobd setup. you'll need a security bypass too.

You don't need bypass, l popped the back of the star connector and soldered two wires to the end port and popped the cover back on. did the rain sense with alphobd, it does work. just make sure you get signal hi and low correct.