5thGenRams Forums

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

A Dead RAM, a dishonest dealer, and a disheartened owner

Tred

Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2019
Messages
12
Reaction score
6
A week ago, I had to jump start my truck. I had had the tailgate open for a couple of hours, using it as a work bench for a couple government (Honey-Do) projects. I thought it slightly odd, but I just put it down to the cargo lights and, some of the time, the radio being on for too long. After getting the truck started, I noticed that the electronic E-brake had applied itself. I disengaged the E-brake and got in to run to the hardware store and quickly realized that the truck would not shift out of 1st gear. That was rather surprising, but hey, it is an electronic shifter on an electronic everything truck. I also noticed that the front and rear parking sensors were unavailable, and "Service Electronic Traction Control System" and "Service Air Suspension System" warning messages were on the driver information screen. I really needed to get to ACE to finish my projects, so I limped along back streets at about 15 mph.
I had my jump box with me, so several times I tried stopping and shutting off the truck to see if it would start shifting again.
Nope.
It would start without jumping it, but wouldn't shift. I was in ACE for probably seven or eight minutes, got in and started the truck and still had to limp home without getting it out of 1st gear. I shut it off when I got home. When I finished up my projects, I got in the truck an hour or so later, and tried it and everything seemed normal.

Fast-forward to to this past Sunday. I was in up in North Central Texas, and there was a couple of inches of fresh, wet snow on the ground that morning. I got in my truck, and knew it was probably not going to start because when I opened the door the steps did not extend. Sure enough, nothing but a loud clicking noise. I put the trusty little jump box on it and it started right up.
I had the "Service Electronic Traction Control System" and "Service Air Suspension System" warning messages, but when I drove it, it shifted normally. I also put it in 4WD-Auto. I drove out into a pasture and spent the rest of the morning cutting cedar trees down for fence posts. I left it idling for an hour or so and then shut it off. Got in the truck to come back for lunch at noon, and it started right up. When I went in the house, I remembered that I needed to recharge my jump box, so I brought it in with me.
After lunch, I drove back up to the pasture to continue cutting posts. The snow fell pretty heavily throughout the day, and we had 6 or 8" on the ground, so I decided to call it a day about 4pm.
As you probably already guessed, the truck wouldn't start. AND I had left my jump box at the house to charge.
Because of course.
I kept trying to start the truck, not really looking forward to the long, cold, wet, tired walk in my near future. To my surprise and relief, it started!
Hallelujah!
However, the truck had shifted itself out of 4WD, and the electronic E-brake had applied itself again. Luckily, it wasn't quite so cold that the breaks had frozen to the rotors, but the truck would not let me shift into 4WD, and I was just spinning the rear wheels trying to get started. I got out and shoveled out a path through the snow in front of each tire and took some cedar branches and laid them in front of the back tires. I rocked it back and forth a few times and finally got enough speed built up to get going. Luckily every gate that I had to go through on the way back to the house was on enough of a down-slope that I didn't get stuck again.

The next morning, I (surprisingly) didn't have to jump the truck, and the drive train was completely normal. I drove into Stephenville to Bruner CDJRF service department to see if they could diagnose the problem for me. The guys at the service desk were very friendly, courteous and they helped me right away. They pulled the codes (50!) from my vehicle and said that they were all low voltage related, and likely I had a bad battery, and that it would be covered under warranty as long as they had a battery in stock. They said that it might take as much as two hours to diagnose, as they would have to remove the battery from the truck to put it on their battery tester. They would also test the trucks electrical system while they were testing the battery.
I said that was fine, and that I would wait there.
After a little more than an hour, they told me that surprisingly the battery had passed the test, and they could find no issues with the vehicle. They said that something was causing a battery drain, but they didn't know what it might be. The truck is completely stock, except for ditching the terribly ****ty Goodyear tires. They said that the best option was to drive it some more and see if it put codes that would maybe give me some more information.
I had to go to Houston the next morning, and when I got in to leave the truck wouldn't start. Nothing. Not a click or anything. I put the jump box on it, and still got nothing. I tried a few more times, and then I noticed a tiny little flashing icon on the screen of my jump box that I hadn't seen before. I disconnected the jump box and got in the truck to read the jump box manual to see what the icon meant. While I was sitting there reading the manual, the door ajar chime suddenly started to sound. I crossed my fingers, stepped on the brake and pushed the start button and the truck started. No error messages, no E-brake, and the truck would shift into 4WD. Completely normal.

After driving four hours to Houston, I shut the truck off and tried to restart it later that evening. Nope.
Tuesday I tried to get the truck in to two different RAM service departments in the Houston area, but one said that they couldn't get me in until the following day, and the other not until Thursday afternoon. They both said that they would need to have the truck a minimum of 24 hours.
Not wanting to wait and have the hassle of being without my truck for who knows how long, I decided that I would the battery out of the truck myself and take it to the local O'Reilly's and have them test it. When I looked at the battery securing bolt I could tell that the service department at Bruner's had lied to me. It was obvious from the dust on the bolt and the securing strip that the battery had never been removed from the vehicle for testing as they had said.
Sure enough, when O'Reilly's tested the battery, it failed. I decided I would rather cough up the $150 of my own money and put a new battery in myself than deal with the ******** dealer service departments and try to convince them to put a new battery in the damn truck.
After I put in the battery, the truck started and shifted fine. I had no back up or surround cameras, no SXM, no passenger side climate control, etc. I figured that this would probably reset itself over time, and sure enough, this morning it all seems back to normal.
I am very disappointed that I was misled about the dealership testing the battery. I am more disappointed that I have a truck that I now have ZERO confidence in.

If something as simple as a low battery can completely disable your vehicle, that is an absurd design flaw that could leave a person in a real jam. Especially if they live, work or play in very remote areas, as many truck owners do.

Yes, I got out of the situation without even a long walk, but it could have ended up very differently than just being a pain in the ***.
  • If had been just a little colder it would have been enough for the E-brake to freeze up I would have been stuck right there.
  • If I wasn't physically able to shovel a path through the snow, I would have been stuck right there.
  • If I were trying to respond to some kind of an emergency, and I did get the truck to start, only to have it not shift out of 1st gear or not shift into 4WD, it could have disastrous consequences when time is of the essence.
 

Aseras

Ram Guru
Joined
Mar 25, 2020
Messages
1,270
Reaction score
857

5th gen rams have serious battery and grounding issues.
 

Trooper4

Ram Guru
Joined
Feb 14, 2019
Messages
1,575
Reaction score
1,665
Location
Ellensburg, Washington
Factory batteries are crap, Mine died after a discharge(caused by me) and went downhill fast after that. Just bit the bullet and replaced it with a good one. 20000 miles later still going strong.
 
Last edited:

silver64

Ram Guru
Joined
Mar 5, 2019
Messages
694
Reaction score
566
Thats a hell of a way for a truck to treat an owner. I have run my battery down pretty good and not had those sorts of issues. There has to be something wrong with it because how it behaved is not normal even under the conditions you described. I would force the dealer to test the charging system and how it performs when under a low battery condition. You should not accept any excuses from them. batteries are also not really conducive to a lot of vibration so if you are driving in fields and bumpy roads the battery can lose a cell and need replaced.
 

jdefoe0424

Ram Guru
Joined
Aug 2, 2019
Messages
555
Reaction score
297
Location
Illinois
Many newer vehicles are extremely sensitive to voltage and capacity of the battery, especially if you don't drive long enough to truly get the battery back to full charge. It would have been a good idea to put the truck/battery on a trickle charger and make sure it was topped off. Cold weather only exacerbates any battery problems and batteries are definitely not as resilient as they once were after being drained down that far.
It's possible the dealer put it on a charger for a bit, disconnected the charger and then immediately tested it...of course it's going to pass. Charging it, letting it sit for a couple hours or longer and then load testing it could tell a different story.

I have accidentally drained my down once, and too got all the same warnings. It happened in the summer and after a short charge was able to get it started and functioned like nothing ever happened.
 

Jako

Spends too much time on here
Joined
Sep 8, 2018
Messages
2,813
Reaction score
1,712
Location
Borough of Parks
Had similar situation, would not come out of first but I was only 2 miles from home on local streets. An hour later the Ram was back to normal. Made an appointment with the dealership that was 2 1/2 weeks out. Two days before the appointment had some more issues but was able to charge and start. The dealership replaced the battery and all is good.
jdfoe, post 5 has good advice. Batteries will not last if not used often and short trips, based on my experience with my 89 year old father and 93 year old father in law and conversation with an employee at Battery Mart.
 

mtnrider

Active Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2021
Messages
39
Reaction score
33
A lot of new vehicles are like this. At the first sign of battery trouble you need to get it load tested and replaced. There is no running around for a little bit longer hoping it will start. Once the voltage drops below a certain point they will refuse to start period.



.
 
Last edited:

brettguercio

Active Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2020
Messages
40
Reaction score
19
A week ago, I had to jump start my truck. I had had the tailgate open for a couple of hours, using it as a work bench for a couple government (Honey-Do) projects. I thought it slightly odd, but I just put it down to the cargo lights and, some of the time, the radio being on for too long. After getting the truck started, I noticed that the electronic E-brake had applied itself. I disengaged the E-brake and got in to run to the hardware store and quickly realized that the truck would not shift out of 1st gear. That was rather surprising, but hey, it is an electronic shifter on an electronic everything truck. I also noticed that the front and rear parking sensors were unavailable, and "Service Electronic Traction Control System" and "Service Air Suspension System" warning messages were on the driver information screen. I really needed to get to ACE to finish my projects, so I limped along back streets at about 15 mph.
I had my jump box with me, so several times I tried stopping and shutting off the truck to see if it would start shifting again.
Nope.
It would start without jumping it, but wouldn't shift. I was in ACE for probably seven or eight minutes, got in and started the truck and still had to limp home without getting it out of 1st gear. I shut it off when I got home. When I finished up my projects, I got in the truck an hour or so later, and tried it and everything seemed normal.

Fast-forward to to this past Sunday. I was in up in North Central Texas, and there was a couple of inches of fresh, wet snow on the ground that morning. I got in my truck, and knew it was probably not going to start because when I opened the door the steps did not extend. Sure enough, nothing but a loud clicking noise. I put the trusty little jump box on it and it started right up.
I had the "Service Electronic Traction Control System" and "Service Air Suspension System" warning messages, but when I drove it, it shifted normally. I also put it in 4WD-Auto. I drove out into a pasture and spent the rest of the morning cutting cedar trees down for fence posts. I left it idling for an hour or so and then shut it off. Got in the truck to come back for lunch at noon, and it started right up. When I went in the house, I remembered that I needed to recharge my jump box, so I brought it in with me.
After lunch, I drove back up to the pasture to continue cutting posts. The snow fell pretty heavily throughout the day, and we had 6 or 8" on the ground, so I decided to call it a day about 4pm.
As you probably already guessed, the truck wouldn't start. AND I had left my jump box at the house to charge.
Because of course.
I kept trying to start the truck, not really looking forward to the long, cold, wet, tired walk in my near future. To my surprise and relief, it started!
Hallelujah!
However, the truck had shifted itself out of 4WD, and the electronic E-brake had applied itself again. Luckily, it wasn't quite so cold that the breaks had frozen to the rotors, but the truck would not let me shift into 4WD, and I was just spinning the rear wheels trying to get started. I got out and shoveled out a path through the snow in front of each tire and took some cedar branches and laid them in front of the back tires. I rocked it back and forth a few times and finally got enough speed built up to get going. Luckily every gate that I had to go through on the way back to the house was on enough of a down-slope that I didn't get stuck again.

The next morning, I (surprisingly) didn't have to jump the truck, and the drive train was completely normal. I drove into Stephenville to Bruner CDJRF service department to see if they could diagnose the problem for me. The guys at the service desk were very friendly, courteous and they helped me right away. They pulled the codes (50!) from my vehicle and said that they were all low voltage related, and likely I had a bad battery, and that it would be covered under warranty as long as they had a battery in stock. They said that it might take as much as two hours to diagnose, as they would have to remove the battery from the truck to put it on their battery tester. They would also test the trucks electrical system while they were testing the battery.
I said that was fine, and that I would wait there.
After a little more than an hour, they told me that surprisingly the battery had passed the test, and they could find no issues with the vehicle. They said that something was causing a battery drain, but they didn't know what it might be. The truck is completely stock, except for ditching the terribly ****ty Goodyear tires. They said that the best option was to drive it some more and see if it put codes that would maybe give me some more information.
I had to go to Houston the next morning, and when I got in to leave the truck wouldn't start. Nothing. Not a click or anything. I put the jump box on it, and still got nothing. I tried a few more times, and then I noticed a tiny little flashing icon on the screen of my jump box that I hadn't seen before. I disconnected the jump box and got in the truck to read the jump box manual to see what the icon meant. While I was sitting there reading the manual, the door ajar chime suddenly started to sound. I crossed my fingers, stepped on the brake and pushed the start button and the truck started. No error messages, no E-brake, and the truck would shift into 4WD. Completely normal.

After driving four hours to Houston, I shut the truck off and tried to restart it later that evening. Nope.
Tuesday I tried to get the truck in to two different RAM service departments in the Houston area, but one said that they couldn't get me in until the following day, and the other not until Thursday afternoon. They both said that they would need to have the truck a minimum of 24 hours.
Not wanting to wait and have the hassle of being without my truck for who knows how long, I decided that I would the battery out of the truck myself and take it to the local O'Reilly's and have them test it. When I looked at the battery securing bolt I could tell that the service department at Bruner's had lied to me. It was obvious from the dust on the bolt and the securing strip that the battery had never been removed from the vehicle for testing as they had said.
Sure enough, when O'Reilly's tested the battery, it failed. I decided I would rather cough up the $150 of my own money and put a new battery in myself than deal with the ******** dealer service departments and try to convince them to put a new battery in the damn truck.
After I put in the battery, the truck started and shifted fine. I had no back up or surround cameras, no SXM, no passenger side climate control, etc. I figured that this would probably reset itself over time, and sure enough, this morning it all seems back to normal.
I am very disappointed that I was misled about the dealership testing the battery. I am more disappointed that I have a truck that I now have ZERO confidence in.

If something as simple as a low battery can completely disable your vehicle, that is an absurd design flaw that could leave a person in a real jam. Especially if they live, work or play in very remote areas, as many truck owners do.

Yes, I got out of the situation without even a long walk, but it could have ended up very differently than just being a pain in the ***.
  • If had been just a little colder it would have been enough for the E-brake to freeze up I would have been stuck right there.
  • If I wasn't physically able to shovel a path through the snow, I would have been stuck right there.
  • If I were trying to respond to some kind of an emergency, and I did get the truck to start, only to have it not shift out of 1st gear or not shift into 4WD, it could have disastrous consequences when time is of the essence.
Ram has the Worst service depts I’ve ever experienced to the point Im thinking ram gives them money not to fix vehicles under warranty
 

LaxDfns15

Ram Guru
Joined
Sep 30, 2019
Messages
1,511
Reaction score
1,241
Location
Memphis, TN
A bad battery has been able to completely disable vehicles since the early 2000's. My 2008 Titan would have all kinds of issues if the battery was on its way out. I went through 4 batteries in 6 years until I got a good, sealed one.
 

Jako

Spends too much time on here
Joined
Sep 8, 2018
Messages
2,813
Reaction score
1,712
Location
Borough of Parks
A bad battery has been able to completely disable vehicles since the early 2000's. My 2008 Titan would have all kinds of issues if the battery was on its way out. I went through 4 batteries in 6 years until I got a good, sealed one.
What brand and from what business? Why is it so hard to find a good battery?
 

LaxDfns15

Ram Guru
Joined
Sep 30, 2019
Messages
1,511
Reaction score
1,241
Location
Memphis, TN
What brand and from what business? Why is it so hard to find a good battery?
I actually went back to Duralast from Autozone after using Advanced batteries for years. Think it was a Duralast Gold, just make sure it's sealed. I might go with an Optima in the Ram, but the Duralast was at least 4 years old when I sold my Titan.
 

Jako

Spends too much time on here
Joined
Sep 8, 2018
Messages
2,813
Reaction score
1,712
Location
Borough of Parks
I actually went back to Duralast from Autozone after using Advanced batteries for years. Think it was a Duralast Gold, just make sure it's sealed. I might go with an Optima in the Ram, but the Duralast was at least 4 years old when I sold my Titan.
Thanks, I'll keep it in mind. I had a duralast (not sealed) didn't make the warranty limit.
 

securityguy

Legendary member
Joined
Feb 17, 2019
Messages
5,577
Reaction score
4,218
Location
North Florida
A week ago, I had to jump start my truck. I had had the tailgate open for a couple of hours, using it as a work bench for a couple government (Honey-Do) projects. I thought it slightly odd, but I just put it down to the cargo lights and, some of the time, the radio being on for too long. After getting the truck started, I noticed that the electronic E-brake had applied itself. I disengaged the E-brake and got in to run to the hardware store and quickly realized that the truck would not shift out of 1st gear. That was rather surprising, but hey, it is an electronic shifter on an electronic everything truck. I also noticed that the front and rear parking sensors were unavailable, and "Service Electronic Traction Control System" and "Service Air Suspension System" warning messages were on the driver information screen. I really needed to get to ACE to finish my projects, so I limped along back streets at about 15 mph.
I had my jump box with me, so several times I tried stopping and shutting off the truck to see if it would start shifting again.
Nope.
It would start without jumping it, but wouldn't shift. I was in ACE for probably seven or eight minutes, got in and started the truck and still had to limp home without getting it out of 1st gear. I shut it off when I got home. When I finished up my projects, I got in the truck an hour or so later, and tried it and everything seemed normal.

Fast-forward to to this past Sunday. I was in up in North Central Texas, and there was a couple of inches of fresh, wet snow on the ground that morning. I got in my truck, and knew it was probably not going to start because when I opened the door the steps did not extend. Sure enough, nothing but a loud clicking noise. I put the trusty little jump box on it and it started right up.
I had the "Service Electronic Traction Control System" and "Service Air Suspension System" warning messages, but when I drove it, it shifted normally. I also put it in 4WD-Auto. I drove out into a pasture and spent the rest of the morning cutting cedar trees down for fence posts. I left it idling for an hour or so and then shut it off. Got in the truck to come back for lunch at noon, and it started right up. When I went in the house, I remembered that I needed to recharge my jump box, so I brought it in with me.
After lunch, I drove back up to the pasture to continue cutting posts. The snow fell pretty heavily throughout the day, and we had 6 or 8" on the ground, so I decided to call it a day about 4pm.
As you probably already guessed, the truck wouldn't start. AND I had left my jump box at the house to charge.
Because of course.
I kept trying to start the truck, not really looking forward to the long, cold, wet, tired walk in my near future. To my surprise and relief, it started!
Hallelujah!
However, the truck had shifted itself out of 4WD, and the electronic E-brake had applied itself again. Luckily, it wasn't quite so cold that the breaks had frozen to the rotors, but the truck would not let me shift into 4WD, and I was just spinning the rear wheels trying to get started. I got out and shoveled out a path through the snow in front of each tire and took some cedar branches and laid them in front of the back tires. I rocked it back and forth a few times and finally got enough speed built up to get going. Luckily every gate that I had to go through on the way back to the house was on enough of a down-slope that I didn't get stuck again.

The next morning, I (surprisingly) didn't have to jump the truck, and the drive train was completely normal. I drove into Stephenville to Bruner CDJRF service department to see if they could diagnose the problem for me. The guys at the service desk were very friendly, courteous and they helped me right away. They pulled the codes (50!) from my vehicle and said that they were all low voltage related, and likely I had a bad battery, and that it would be covered under warranty as long as they had a battery in stock. They said that it might take as much as two hours to diagnose, as they would have to remove the battery from the truck to put it on their battery tester. They would also test the trucks electrical system while they were testing the battery.
I said that was fine, and that I would wait there.
After a little more than an hour, they told me that surprisingly the battery had passed the test, and they could find no issues with the vehicle. They said that something was causing a battery drain, but they didn't know what it might be. The truck is completely stock, except for ditching the terribly ****ty Goodyear tires. They said that the best option was to drive it some more and see if it put codes that would maybe give me some more information.
I had to go to Houston the next morning, and when I got in to leave the truck wouldn't start. Nothing. Not a click or anything. I put the jump box on it, and still got nothing. I tried a few more times, and then I noticed a tiny little flashing icon on the screen of my jump box that I hadn't seen before. I disconnected the jump box and got in the truck to read the jump box manual to see what the icon meant. While I was sitting there reading the manual, the door ajar chime suddenly started to sound. I crossed my fingers, stepped on the brake and pushed the start button and the truck started. No error messages, no E-brake, and the truck would shift into 4WD. Completely normal.

After driving four hours to Houston, I shut the truck off and tried to restart it later that evening. Nope.
Tuesday I tried to get the truck in to two different RAM service departments in the Houston area, but one said that they couldn't get me in until the following day, and the other not until Thursday afternoon. They both said that they would need to have the truck a minimum of 24 hours.
Not wanting to wait and have the hassle of being without my truck for who knows how long, I decided that I would the battery out of the truck myself and take it to the local O'Reilly's and have them test it. When I looked at the battery securing bolt I could tell that the service department at Bruner's had lied to me. It was obvious from the dust on the bolt and the securing strip that the battery had never been removed from the vehicle for testing as they had said.
Sure enough, when O'Reilly's tested the battery, it failed. I decided I would rather cough up the $150 of my own money and put a new battery in myself than deal with the ******** dealer service departments and try to convince them to put a new battery in the damn truck.
After I put in the battery, the truck started and shifted fine. I had no back up or surround cameras, no SXM, no passenger side climate control, etc. I figured that this would probably reset itself over time, and sure enough, this morning it all seems back to normal.
I am very disappointed that I was misled about the dealership testing the battery. I am more disappointed that I have a truck that I now have ZERO confidence in.

If something as simple as a low battery can completely disable your vehicle, that is an absurd design flaw that could leave a person in a real jam. Especially if they live, work or play in very remote areas, as many truck owners do.

Yes, I got out of the situation without even a long walk, but it could have ended up very differently than just being a pain in the ***.
  • If had been just a little colder it would have been enough for the E-brake to freeze up I would have been stuck right there.
  • If I wasn't physically able to shovel a path through the snow, I would have been stuck right there.
  • If I were trying to respond to some kind of an emergency, and I did get the truck to start, only to have it not shift out of 1st gear or not shift into 4WD, it could have disastrous consequences when time is of the essence.
So sorry that you had these issues. BUT, every vehicle made that has all of these electronics in them will react in a similar way. FORD, GM, TOYOTA, NISSAN, etc. A battery that's on its way out can reap havoc on a vehicles electrical system and all of the electronic modules required to run it. Don't be sour on RAM, as others have stated, sometimes you just have to buy what you know is right to solve an issue and stop allowing dealers to replace one piece of crap with another. I, personally, like the Optima Red Top and Duralast Gold or Platinum batteries.
 

Richard320

Spends too much time on here
Joined
Aug 3, 2019
Messages
2,089
Reaction score
2,222
Location
LA County, People's Republic of California
I've been on the other side of this deal. When you suspect a bad battery, the olden days of load testing it with a carbon pile are gone. Now you use a fancy digital thing that does some kind of magic and spits out a nonsensical code that gets written on the warranty tag on the battery. It also prints out a piece of paper tape with a bunch of stuff on it that gets attached to the repair order for the warranty claim people. I've had batteries that couldn't start a Corolla test good. So I kept repeating the test until it failed one, or I walked out where the junk batteries were waiting to be hauled away and tested a known bad one and used its printout. Then I got paid for "test and replace" (which pays better than charge and test) and had a happy customer. And a happy service writer, because when a guest comes in with a dead battery complaint, they want a new battery, and the service writer got to be the one to tell them it was replaced.

Hopefully there are other dealers you can take it to in the future.
 

Grape_Ape

Ram Guru
Joined
May 12, 2020
Messages
715
Reaction score
875
Thanks, I'll keep it in mind. I had a duralast (not sealed) didn't make the warranty limit.

For what it’s worth - I have a Duralast Gold in my commuter that is going on 3-4 yrs as well. That being said a YouTube channel called “Project Farm” tested a similar battery from several different brands and found that a lot of them are actually made by the same manufacturer. If I remember correctly the Duralast Gold and the Walmart equivalent were made by the same manufacturer, tested similarly, and the Walmart battery was $30 cheaper or so.


Looks like Autozone has a Duralast Platinum AGM Battery for $199 compared to the Gold at $169. I’d probably just get that at this point. An Odyssey or Optima AGM runs like $250-$300.
 
Last edited:

securityguy

Legendary member
Joined
Feb 17, 2019
Messages
5,577
Reaction score
4,218
Location
North Florida
I've been on the other side of this deal. When you suspect a bad battery, the olden days of load testing it with a carbon pile are gone. Now you use a fancy digital thing that does some kind of magic and spits out a nonsensical code that gets written on the warranty tag on the battery. It also prints out a piece of paper tape with a bunch of stuff on it that gets attached to the repair order for the warranty claim people. I've had batteries that couldn't start a Corolla test good. So I kept repeating the test until it failed one, or I walked out where the junk batteries were waiting to be hauled away and tested a known bad one and used its printout. Then I got paid for "test and replace" (which pays better than charge and test) and had a happy customer. And a happy service writer, because when a guest comes in with a dead battery complaint, they want a new battery, and the service writer got to be the one to tell them it was replaced.

Hopefully there are other dealers you can take it to in the future.
I bought my own Foxwell Battery tester for around $100 when it was on sale. Actually better than what the dealers use to test batteries. I am super satisfied with it.

 

Dusty1948

Ram Guru
Joined
Jul 14, 2018
Messages
1,251
Reaction score
846
Location
Rochester, New York
Since the cold weather hit upstate New York, I know of three batteries that have failed causing weird electrical or drivability problems. None of them were Rams. The only pattern I think I see is that it happens primarily to fairly new factory equipped batteries.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33 gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build date: 03 June 2018. Now at: 045223 miles.
 

Willwork4truck

Spends too much time on here
Joined
Apr 23, 2019
Messages
3,683
Reaction score
2,460
Location
SC
Lots of battery complaints when I had my f150. Nonetheless it doesn’t help the OP with his problem dealer. Guess all that we owners can do is replace the batteries on our own when they give problems.

My Limited (well hers, I just maintain it and paid for it) is trickle charged overnight weekly as it’s always down to 12.2 or 12.3 after a week in the garage. I learned from my Ferd that the battery management system (BMS) that Ferd uses won’t recharge to 100% like alternators did in the “good old days”. They save that critical 1/10th of a mpg 🙄 by not causing the hp loss from the alternator drag and just recharging enough to allow you to start it. So you have to trickle charge it on your own or lose batteries every year or two. 🤔

I personally buy the (probably Johnson Controls made) Walmart 5 yr batteries with the good 24 month full replacement warranty. I had to replace one already within 6 months but after the complicated test process, it was done free.🌝

Again sorry OP for the issue, as a rancher type you already know that when you are out away from the house you have to have extra tools etc. It’s a good thing you kept a jump pack, I actually have 2 in case one is down. HF has their 3 in 1 on sale periodically, $44 is cheap as long as you keep it charged.
 

UnloosedChewtoy

5thGenRams Supporter
Site Supporter
Joined
Jul 22, 2020
Messages
793
Reaction score
729
Location
South Dakota
That being said a YouTube channel called “Project Farm” tested a similar battery from several different brands and found that a lot of them are actually made by the same manufacturer. If I remember correctly the Duralast Gold and the Walmart equivalent were made by the same manufacturer, tested similarly, and the Walmart battery was $30 cheaper or so.
Yup! There are several battery makers, but only about two actually make 95+% of the car batteries used in the USA. The majority seem to be Johnson Controls, and the other is East Penn.
There are a small smattering of others that you can find (such as NorthStar and EnerSys), but they are getting more rare it seems. Even East Penn is getting harder to find, Johnson Controls seems to be winning the "war" recently, which I find interesting, as I've had slightly better luck with the Made in USA East Penn stuff. (Most of Johnson Controls batteries are imported.)

For the most part, if you see "made in USA" anywhere on the battery, its an East Penn battery at heart, regardless of label. If not, its probably Johnson Controls.
The best battery warranty I've found on AGM is Duracell branded (East Penn) batteries sold at Batteries Plus and Sams Club. 4 years free replacement (not pro-rated).

Disclaimer: I am not covering deep cycle, marine, lithium ion, etc. batteries in the above statement; I am referring to just regular/AGM automotive batteries.

I bought my own Foxwell Battery tester for around $100 when it was on sale. Actually better than what the dealers use to test batteries. I am super satisfied with it.
I did as well! Works quite nicely.

All that being said: good call to the OP for just replacing his battery. However, there may be an honest mistake at the service dept, the tech could have told him "yup, tested the battery" and the service writer assumed that meant removed and tested, as he had said. Or the tech was lazy and lied to the service writer. I wouldn't write off that dealership yet, people do make mistakes. I'd just keep a very close eye on anything they do from now on, unless a second "strike" occurs, then they may be out.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top