A/C Performance

[Edwards]

Sorry I didn’t read through all the pages on this thread, so my apologies. But I too am experiencing similar issues with the A/C not blowing cold air. Would someone please advise on how to properly clamp the A/C to achieve the colder temps, or at the minimum direct me to the page or thread in which I am sure this is already covered in great length.
And are there any risks to damaging anything by doing this?

Thanks again and I do apologize for the redundancy.

Here you go:

Air conditioning Hack

Today I was able to get 36-38 degrees blowing out of both the drivers side and the passenger side ac vents. Previously I was getting 44 out of the passenger side and 50-52 out of the driver side. I installed a water shut off valve in the heater hose going from water pump to the heater core. It's...

5thgenrams.com

 

[Autoplay]

Sorry I didn’t read through all the pages on this thread, so my apologies. But I too am experiencing similar issues with the A/C not blowing cold air. Would someone please advise on how to properly clamp the A/C to achieve the colder temps, or at the minimum direct me to the page or thread in which I am sure this is already covered in great length.
And are there any risks to damaging anything by doing this?

Thanks again and I do apologize for the redundancy.

I wouldn’t use clamps as a permanent solution,I would only use clamp/s to temp restrict the water,to install a valve. Using clamps can do damage to the hoses,ESP if used long term.

I believe the thread you’re looking for is “AC Hack”

Again,I would use a valve,if I was going to go this route. I’m still on the fence,if I’m going to do it or not. Patiently waiting for FCA to come up with a viable solution. My AC isn’t as cold as any of my previous Rams,and like others,I believe it’s blend door issue. It’s either not closing all the way,and/or the doors aren’t functioning as designed.

 

[Firepower2010]

I too believe there is a blend door issue, but I believe it's tied to several things, such as interior temps vs outside temp, vs target temp (on the screen setting). In my mind, the interior temp sensor is muted or SUPER cheap/slow, and the programing that compares the data to get the desired cabin temp to where you want it, is really screwy and not programmed right. What I have exhibited is not only the cooling issue, but also a heating issue, whereby with external temp being cold (say 40 degrees outside), the HVAC set on screen at 78 degrees the system will blow ICE cold air through the vents unless I crank it up to MAX heat (and YES the engine is at full operating temp), if I leave it at 78 degrees or any temp underneath the high max heat setting it will continue blowing ice cold through the vents for about 10 mins of driving. 2 dealerships have said my system is "working as designed", total BS if you ask me, and is a HUGE design flaw. NO other vehicle I own currently or in the past does this... I believe these trucks have major HVAC flaws that FCA is turning a blind eye to.

 

[Billet1500 4x4]

It’s clearly a blend door issue no questions asked. If I can cut off 3/4 flow of hot water to the core and watch my drivers side vents drop 7 degrees pretty quick it’s something to do with the blend doors. The scariest thing to me is if FCA announces that they recognize the problem (which is in the A/C- Heater box) it will be a disaster for us if they start ripping dashes out of our vehicles. I hope some really smart engineer figures out a valve that reduces/diverts coolant flow into the core with the AC controls rather than new heater AC boxes.

I am so thankful for KcRay that he brought forward this hack/fix with the valve on the heater core hose or I think I’d be losing it.

Ram used a bypass valve all the way up to 2018 on the 1500. it was removed from the system for the 2019 model. A lot of vehicles have a bypass valve in the HVAC system to reroute the coolant around the heater core to maximize the cooling performance. Ram could integrate one back into the system, they just need to add the logic into the HVAC module to close the valve when the user selects max AC and find an open I/O port to plug it into.

A nice electric operated heater control valve with a small harness that hooks up to the HVAC system somehow would be a nice thing they could engineer to make it work unless of course they find out the drivers blend door isn’t closing and can reprogram the HVAC module. I doubt it will be that simple though.

I don't think the problem is electrical/software related. I think the issue is mechanical and the fix would require pulling the dash out to get to the actuator/linkage to fix it properly. This is why a TSB has yet to be issued to truly remedy the problem. I have not seen the actual layout for the HVAC case for the 2019 but if it's like previous designs the actuator connects to a plastic arm, that arm is in turn connected to a cam follower mechanism, the cam follower is then connected to a metal rod, the metal rod is connected to an arm that is connected to the actual blend door shaft, and it seems like there is something within this complete mechanism that is physically preventing the blend door from fully closing not that the servo motor is just stopping short of being fully closed. the only way to access it to pull the dash and the entire HVAC case because the linkage resides between the case and firewall. Extremely expensive repair that I'm sure FCA doesn't want to pay dealers to have it done plus any issues that will arise under warranty from such an invasive repair. Integration of a bypass valve seems like the ticket, perhaps they are working on something right now or they're just going to deny deny deny and figure they will lose some customers but the lost revenue is less than the fix.

This is out of a previous model ram.

 

[cjmst23]

What will really be discouraging is when, after a year of us pointing this out and begging fca for resolution, they decide to put a change in for a 2020 or 2021 model and everyone who supported ram early gets left behind.

 

[ac1dd]

Ram used a bypass valve all the way up to 2018 on the 1500. it was removed from the system for the 2019 model. A lot of vehicles have a bypass valve in the HVAC system to reroute the coolant around the heater core to maximize the cooling performance. Ram could integrate one back into the system, they just need to add the logic into the HVAC module to close the valve when the user selects max AC and find an open I/O port to plug it into.


I don't think the problem is electrical/software related. I think the issue is mechanical and the fix would require pulling the dash out to get to the actuator/linkage to fix it properly. This is why a TSB has yet to be issued to truly remedy the problem. I have not seen the actual layout for the HVAC case for the 2019 but if it's like previous designs the actuator connects to a plastic arm, that arm is in turn connected to a cam follower mechanism, the cam follower is then connected to a metal rod, the metal rod is connected to an arm that is connected to the actual blend door shaft, and it seems like there is something within this complete mechanism that is physically preventing the blend door from fully closing not that the servo motor is just stopping short of being fully closed. the only way to access it to pull the dash and the entire HVAC case because the linkage resides between the case and firewall. Extremely expensive repair that I'm sure FCA doesn't want to pay dealers to have it done plus any issues that will arise under warranty from such an invasive repair. Integration of a bypass valve seems like the ticket, perhaps they are working on something right now or they're just going to deny deny deny and figure they will lose some customers but the lost revenue is less than the fix.

This is out of a previous model ram.

View attachment 30935

I wonder if the 2019 HVAC vent box configuration has the facilities that the previous unit did, but they are just not utilized??For cost purposes it would have been cheaper if Chrysler just kept this unit and deleted certain parts from it. I would think with a TSB the required parts could be fairly easily installed to make the prior heater core diverter valve active again...

 

[Get N Dirty]

My case manager called and left message saying she contacted corporate and she was told the truck is designed to have a 8 degree temperature spread between passanger and drivers side. I don't know if she is right or if she was smoking something in a van down by the river. I do know my AC has been running better with the PCM update. I previously had the AC recharged and the AC updated. Those two services did not seem to improve things. Several weeks ago after dealer did the PCM update, I noticed I feel much cooler in the truck and outside air temperatures have been getting much hotter. I run my AC in auto a lot now and end up turning it up to about 68 because it gets plenty cold. Previously I could not get cold enough and I had it on as cold as it would go. I have not had a chance to test the vent temps after the PCM update. Now if I could get my damn home AC to work. Hot as hell here and my home AC took a crap on me this afternoon.

 

[Jhill]

A nice electric operated heater control valve with a small harness that hooks up to the HVAC system somehow would be a nice thing they could engineer to make it work unless of course they find out the drivers blend door isn’t closing and can reprogram the HVAC module. I doubt it will be that simple though.

like this......

 

[RBRK]

Ya, but I meant for FCA to make it and have it integrated with the factory HVAC controls. So when you demand say max A/C it would close the valve then open when you raise the temp. It’s a long shot I know. My A/C is working pretty good this year, we are at 100 103 every day and it’s been good. I don’t have a valve either. If nothing gets done, I’m ok with mine for as Long as I own it, last year I was thinking I need to get out of this truck soon!
Let’s hope it’s just a programming problem with the drivers side.

 

[Techguy2000]

As I posted months ago, I did my own survey of 8 or more brand new Ram 1500s, on my preferred dealer's lot, all on the same day, within a space of maybe 90 minutes, and I can testify before the Supreme Court of the United States that 100% of the 2019 DT Ram 1500s had notably weak AC performance, and 100% of the 2018 DS "Classic" (Gen-4) ram 1500s had normal AC performance.

By weak AC performance I mean that holding my hand right in front of the center dash outlets, the time it took to begin to feel cool air on my hand after AC startup. Nothing to do with the size of the cabs and the total length of time it takes to cool a large cab - that's a totally different story. My testing had only to do with the time the truck takes to start producing normally cold air. Every single 2019 DT Gen-5 Ram 1500 took far longer than any of the brand new 2018 models, and waaaaaay longer than my wife's Mini, longer than our 15-year-old Prius. And in 100% of the cases, the 2019 DT Rams produced barely cool air, none of them produced air anywhere near as cold as our 15 YO Prius.

I can't tell you the percentage of 2019 DT Ram 1500s that have the problem of significantly poor AC cooling performance, but I absolutely CAN tell you that the vast majority of all 2019 DT Ram 1500s I either test drove on the road, or started afresh & ran on the dealer lot, had really poor AC cooling performance.

In this day and age, when all other vehicles, including $25,000 Kia, Toyota and Honda sedans have absolutely STELLAR cooling performance, producing genuinely COLD air within the first ten seconds of AC startup, and when Ram bragged that the 2019 DT 1500 had something like 25% better cooling capacity than the Gen-4 DS-based 1500s, the fact that one single person here has to complain about their 2019 1500's poor cooling performance, IS A PROBLEM.

I did the same thing a month ago at the dealership, I took my hvac thermometer and tested many trims and build dates and came to the same conclusion as you, they were all equally poor.
We have an 8 year old Prius and it shocks me now when I go to move it in the driveway for my wife that it can sit in the sun all day and blast cold air within mot even a minute.

This will never get fixed for the 2019 models, but look at it this way, we have all become more grateful for ice cold air in other vehicles!

 

[ColoradoCub]

I have two things that drive me nuts with my new truck, the AC not blowing cold and the outside temp reading in the display being way off. Obviously the AC is a more important issue on 90+ deg days and thankfully the fix is easy and cheap to remedy that. As far as the outside temp we’ll this is definitely a first for me, it reads about 8-10 deg warmer than it reallly is , kind of weird, never had a truck with a seriously faulty outside temp reading but it is FCA so nothing surprises me at this point. With so many issues on these new Rams I just don’t understand why they are in such a hurry to get them sold as opposed to refining or fixing the multitude of problems so many are having before selling hundreds of thousands of them and then playing catch up to fix them. They always do this!

 

[Scjon03]

So I don’t know if this was like this before of just started because I never have anyone ride in the passenger seat. But my AC sucks like everyone else’s but the passenger side is always hot. Doesn’t get “cooler” or “cold” like the driver side. You can definitely feel the difference. The rear vents are actually colder than the driver though. This will be the first time I take it to the dealer.

 

[RBRK]

My case manager called and left message saying she contacted corporate and she was told the truck is designed to have a 8 degree temperature spread between passanger and drivers side. I don't know if she is right or if she was smoking something in a van down by the river. I do know my AC has been running better with the PCM update. I previously had the AC recharged and the AC updated. Those two services did not seem to improve things. Several weeks ago after dealer did the PCM update, I noticed I feel much cooler in the truck and outside air temperatures have been getting much hotter. I run my AC in auto a lot now and end up turning it up to about 68 because it gets plenty cold. Previously I could not get cold enough and I had it on as cold as it would go. I have not had a chance to test the vent temps after the PCM update. Now if I could get my damn home AC to work. Hot as hell here and my home AC took a crap on me this afternoon.

I’ve said it before the PCM update fixes the fan which in turn helps the A/C at idle and generally overall. Mine used to blow 60 at idle last year, this year it’s so much better. The fan ramps up at idle and when needed, taking off driving you will notice the fan slow down then speed up, way better air flow across the condenser. If anyone takes there truck in for and A/C issue make sure they check and update your PCM if it applies. It’s common in the “industry to always say there was a leak and charge it up. You can’t get paid an evacuate and recharge for A/C under warranty if there isn’t a leak, so most techs will say there is a leak. I highly doubt there are as many leaks as others have stated. The fan helps a lot, it’s been 100 here and mine is much improved over last summer. I can’t feel a difference by hand from drivers to passenger side but I know the drivers still is not as cold when I checked it with a thermometer. Even on the cars I work with you will get some difference usually 2-3 at most.

 

[Firepower2010]

one of the biggest issues when talking about this system is that in comparison with the old system (I too had a 2016, which the HVAC worked FLAWLESS), in speaking to the head electrical guru at Cerritos Dodge, is that the system as a whole is all brand new. Why you ask? it is no longer Chrysler sensors, electrical, etc etc., it is now all Fiat stuff, and the way they do this is TOTALLY different, he said he has been mortified by the changes FCA has been doing to the electrical/sensor systems in all the cars. He said good luck....

 

[Matt_T]

For me since the summer reached the 100's I have noticed the AC works pretty good if you are driving 15-20min or longer. The issue with my truck is it just can't cool the truck off in the middle of the day after the sun has beat down on it. I dont even use the remote start anymore it's pointless since at idle it does not get cold enough.

 

[ColoradoCub]

For me since the summer reached the 100's I have noticed the AC works pretty good if you are driving 15-20min or longer. The issue with my truck is it just can't cool the truck off in the middle of the day after the sun has beat down on it. I dont even use the remote start anymore it's pointless since at idle it does not get cold enough.

Clamp or valve that heater core hose and you’ll see cold air!

 

[Matt_T]

Clamp or valve that heater core hose and you’ll see cold air!

Anybody have a link to that topic? I remember seeing it about a month ago.

 

[ac1dd]

Anybody have a link to that topic? I remember seeing it about a month ago.

AC hack to bypass heater core from system for lower AC vent temps

 

[KMAN1964]

Yes, after weeks of 90 degree temps I'm sure most of us have tried everything.

I'm still less than happy with my AC performance, but still hopeful for improvement one way or another.

RT7 thanks for the checkin with a factory guy. If people aren't complaining to the dealer, the issues won't get logged and the factory will never look at it. Ilovegrits, be very interested to see what yours says.

I do have the random switch from recirc to fresh air, but not often. I do have a 6 degree temp difference between drivers and passenger side.

I can get tolerable temps out of the system in recirc, but it doesn't help with the wall of heat which is radiating off of my dash and windshield. There seems to be very little air movement between the dash and windshield, so when that's heated up to 100 degrees it is staying that way.

I have noticed that in 90 degree temps I just can't put the system on fresh air mode, around town or on the highway - the air coming out is just not cold enough. I have a friend with a black on black explorer and in a parking lot on the same day it was completely different.

I just bough a 2019 Laramie with black interior. I have now had 3 different loaners as the AC is not getting cold. Especially in the fresh air mode - 64 degrees at the vent at 85 degree day vs recirc temps at 50.
Vehicle is only tolerable with recirc mode on

 

[Maestro]

The problem is not actually with the A/C. I made that mistake, and the dealer techs immediately went looking for something wrong with the compressor, evap coil, condenser, or refrig. charge. The "problem" is that the HEATER will not shut completely off. So, the temperature at the driver's center vent in my April build is always 20 F° higher than it is supposed to be. Even on max A/C on a 68 °F morning today here near Houston(!), the driver's center vent only reached down to 64 °F (44 °F evap + 20 F° from heater = 64 °F). When I turned off the A/C compressor, the temperature went up to 88°F, even with the HVAC on recirc and all the windows open (68°F ambient + 20 F° from heater = 88 °F).

The problem to complain about at the dealership is that we can't get the heater to shut all the way off, which heats up the cold air in the HVAC housing, and wastes gas when the compressor is running. The heater also heats the ambient air from the outside or the cabin, which forces us to use the compressor when others don't need it. I am not sure if the door is not closing or too thin, but my guess is not closing since others get lower vent temperatures and we all have the same doors I am guessing.