37's on Stock Laramie with +0 offset

[Ram5280]

Ive searched but cannot locate this specific answer. I had a 2021 Laramie 2500 that i was able to install 37's on with a +0 offset and no lift or level just light trimming. Though I understand the suspension is different on the 1500's, I am trying to find out what the bare minimum lift/level required is to shove 37's under it with some light trimming? More specifically, would like to know if anyone has done this on a stock suspension and/or just a level. The +0 offset is key. Thanks in advance.

 

[Ram5280]

Wulp…see ya later.

 

[boogielander]

well you probably will need 4" minimum to fit 37s with trimming.
I am going to assume it will be something like 37x12.5 for the tires. at 0 offset 12.5 will rub your UCA. you need -12mm for 12.5" wide tires

 

[Ram5280]

well you probably will need 4" minimum to fit 37s with trimming.
I am going to assume it will be something like 37x12.5 for the tires. at 0 offset 12.5 will rub your UCA. you need -12mm for 12.5" wide tires

Awesome thanks for the reply.
You’re saying I would need a larger negative offset to avoid rubbing?? First I’ve heard that. Assumed +0 would be better than anything negative. May go 11.5 but you’re saying in terms of heigh a 4” is the min? Was hoping a 2” level would get me there.

 

[CalvinC]

You might check out HD Rams forum for your 2500.
Most folks here have experience with 1500 Rams... could explain the lack of responses.

 

[boogielander]

Awesome thanks for the reply.
You’re saying I would need a larger negative offset to avoid rubbing?? First I’ve heard that. Assumed +0 would be better than anything negative. May go 11.5 but you’re saying in terms of heigh a 4” is the min? Was hoping a 2” level would get me there.

Wait is this for a 2500 or 1500 lol i thought it's for a 1500 when i responded last night.

assuming you have the 1500, here is my response:

i have -12mm on 35x12.5R18 and it's still too close to UCA by my standard. This is at full-lock. It doesn't touch, but it's the closest to touching the UCA that I've ever seen in my life. Took a bit time for me to get used to that.
Because of that, I doubt 0mm will work. -12mm is both what I personally run on my personal trucks and what we recommend to our customers. 0 offset MAY work, but I don't recommend. This is for 12.5 profile. 11.3 profile should be able to clear 0mm no problem given it's ~0.6" narrower on one side (1.2" less on both sides combined). But then again, if you were my customer I wouldn't recommend just so we won't have to deal with problems when it doesn't work.
I mean, when it doesn't work, you can always put spacers on. but i strongly against wheel spacers; you'll need to torque it to spec and check torque periodically. And if you go offroad then that's just more stress on your truck, which can cause premature wear. Some people will say they run spacers and have no problem, but I've seen a thing or two so I know a thing or two.

Is there a reason why you want 0mm?


For the lift, 4" is the least.
This is 35s on 2" level (for non-Rebels). I am on Fox 2.5" DSC EXT and 35x12.5R18. Fox ship their 2.5" DSC EXT set at 2" lift/ level and I didn't change the setting to retain droop. As you can see, not much wheel-well spacing left with 35s.

This was when I ran OE 33s on the same suspension. Look at how much wheel-well spacing there is.

And this is how much I had to trim in the back of wheel-well to fit 35s and clear them for offroad use.

The front side did not require any trimming at all.


Based on what I've done on my own truck, I don't think a 2" will fit. Even if it will, you will need to trim A LOT more than I do both in the front and in the back of your fender wheel-well. Besides, with 2" level on 37s you're not gonna get much suspension travel left anymore; your tires will hit the fender liner too soon and too early.

 

[Ram5280]

You might check out HD Rams forum for your 2500.
Most folks here have experience with 1500 Rams... could explain the lack of responses.

Not for a 2500. Re-read my post.

 

[Ram5280]

Wait is this for a 2500 or 1500 lol i thought it's for a 1500 when i responded last night.

assuming you have the 1500, here is my response:

i have -12mm on 35x12.5R18 and it's still too close to UCA by my standard. This is at full-lock. It doesn't touch, but it's the closest to touching the UCA that I've ever seen in my life. Took a bit time for me to get used to that.
Because of that, I doubt 0mm will work. -12mm is both what I personally run on my personal trucks and what we recommend to our customers. 0 offset MAY work, but I don't recommend. This is for 12.5 profile. 11.3 profile should be able to clear 0mm no problem given it's ~0.6" narrower on one side (1.2" less on both sides combined). But then again, if you were my customer I wouldn't recommend just so we won't have to deal with problems when it doesn't work.
I mean, when it doesn't work, you can always put spacers on. but i strongly against wheel spacers; you'll need to torque it to spec and check torque periodically. And if you go offroad then that's just more stress on your truck, which can cause premature wear. Some people will say they run spacers and have no problem, but I've seen a thing or two so I know a thing or two.

Is there a reason why you want 0mm?


For the lift, 4" is the least.
This is 35s on 2" level (for non-Rebels). I am on Fox 2.5" DSC EXT and 35x12.5R18. Fox ship their 2.5" DSC EXT set at 2" lift/ level and I didn't change the setting to retain droop. As you can see, not much wheel-well spacing left with 35s.
View attachment 162899
This was when I ran OE 33s on the same suspension. Look at how much wheel-well spacing there is.
View attachment 162900
And this is how much I had to trim in the back of wheel-well to fit 35s and clear them for offroad use.
View attachment 162901 View attachment 162902
The front side did not require any trimming at all.
View attachment 162903

Based on what I've done on my own truck, I don't think a 2" will fit. Even if it will, you will need to trim A LOT more than I do both in the front and in the back of your fender wheel-well. Besides, with 2" level on 37s you're not gonna get much suspension travel left anymore; your tires will hit the fender liner too soon and too early.

Insanely helpful information. Thank you very much. Lots to think about. I love the look of big tire walls filling the entire wheel well. This was my old 2500 and I’d like to get a similar look on a 1500.

 

[boogielander]

anyways, I don't have personal experience with 37s yet. Maybe one day when I'm fit enough to lift a 37" and install it with the truck on the ground by myself I'll do that. I keep with 35s on mine because that's the largest size I can swap spare with while the truck's being jacked up on the ground. And I do a lot of solo overlanding where it's just me and my truck, no additional pair of hands.

I'm weak lol

@5thgen.ram has 37s on his. Maybe he can chime in on whether 2" will fit or not.

edit:
For more detailed information regarding lift and tires, you can refer to these two threads that I made:
Tires: 35x12.5R18 on Performance Orientated Lift - a Overview, Procedure, and Review.
Lift: Fox 2.5 DSC Suspension - A Brief Overview, Procedure, and Review of Proper Suspension Setup

 

[boogielander]

Insanely helpful information. Thank you very much. Lots to think about. I love the look of big tire walls filling the entire wheel well. This was my old 2500 and I’d like to get a similar look on a 1500.

looking good!

let me just side track a bit: what made you decide to downsize from a megacab cummins?

 

[SKT Customs]

Ive searched but cannot locate this specific answer. I had a 2021 Laramie 2500 that i was able to install 37's on with a +0 offset and no lift or level just light trimming. Though I understand the suspension is different on the 1500's, I am trying to find out what the bare minimum lift/level required is to shove 37's under it with some light trimming? More specifically, would like to know if anyone has done this on a stock suspension and/or just a level. The +0 offset is key. Thanks in advance.

Hey man I’m just jumping in because boogielander tagged me. I have 37s so I can tell you what you need. First of all I’m sure you know 2500s and 1500s are 100% different up front & the 2500s ride a good 3 inches taller than the 1500s. Also the 2500s have a slightly narrower track width as well. Anddd the way their suspension articulates means your tire clearance through the range of motion will be different too. All that being said, I have seen one single 1500 running 37x12.5r18 with 18x8.5 0 offset on a 2.5” King setup and he cut a good amount and even then it was strictly an on-road setup because it would rub too much off road.

My setup is 37x13.50r18 with 18x9 -12 and my lift is at 5.5”. This is the absolute minimum lift height for this setup without having to cut your bumper or fender at all. Just pinch weld trimming and plastic trimming/bending. I have less than a half inch of clearance to the knuckle, fender, and bumper.

If you wanted to run 0 offset you would have to run a 12.50 tire because 13.50 will rub the knuckle. So at 0 offset with a standard 12.50 tire your wheel will suck in about 1.25” more than mine. Also if you don’t go with Toyo or Nitto (they run the largest) your tire might be a good 1/2” smaller than my Toyos. So let’s say all together you have 1.5” more clearance than my truck in a perfect world. I think it’s possible to fit that combo on a 4” lift like @boogielander said.

Don’t get a 3.5” lift for this setup, it’s asking for problems. Get a true 4” kit.

OR If you’re willing to cut or add a bumper spacer to your front bumper or get an entire aftermarket bumper along with a bit more trimming on the backside of the wheel well by the pinch weld I think you miiiiight be able to fit them on 3” coilovers but frankly it’s going to be so tight and be so much hassle that it’s probably much easier to just do the 4” lift. Plus if you’re only running a 3” level up front and leaving the rear alone or adding a spacer you WILL rub your bedside wheel well so you’ll need to remove the fender liners and possibly roll the edge of the wheel well to prevent damaging your bedside upon full compression.

Hope this helps

 

[Ram5280]

looking good!

let me just side track a bit: what made you decide to downsize from a megacab cummins?

Was my favorite truck I’ve ever owned, but it was just a tank and was impractical for my family and I on the daily. I went to a family wagon (Tahoe) but am now working towards getting back into a truck. The tire setup is everything to me.

 

[Ram5280]

Hey man I’m just jumping in because boogielander tagged me. I have 37s so I can tell you what you need. First of all I’m sure you know 2500s and 1500s are 100% different up front & the 2500s ride a good 3 inches taller than the 1500s. Also the 2500s have a slightly narrower track width as well. Anddd the way their suspension articulates means your tire clearance through the range of motion will be different too. All that being said, I have seen one single 1500 running 37x12.5r18 with 18x8.5 0 offset on a 2.5” King setup and he cut a good amount and even then it was strictly an on-road setup because it would rub too much off road.

My setup is 37x13.50r18 with 18x9 -12 and my lift is at 5.5”. This is the absolute minimum lift height for this setup without having to cut your bumper or fender at all. Just pinch weld trimming and plastic trimming/bending. I have less than a half inch of clearance to the knuckle, fender, and bumper.

If you wanted to run 0 offset you would have to run a 12.50 tire because 13.50 will rub the knuckle. So at 0 offset with a standard 12.50 tire your wheel will suck in about 1.25” more than mine. Also if you don’t go with Toyo or Nitto (they run the largest) your tire might be a good 1/2” smaller than my Toyos. So let’s say all together you have 1.5” more clearance than my truck in a perfect world. I think it’s possible to fit that combo on a 4” lift like @boogielander said.

Don’t get a 3.5” lift for this setup, it’s asking for problems. Get a true 4” kit.

OR If you’re willing to cut or add a bumper spacer to your front bumper or get an entire aftermarket bumper along with a bit more trimming on the backside of the wheel well by the pinch weld I think you miiiiight be able to fit them on 3” coilovers but frankly it’s going to be so tight and be so much hassle that it’s probably much easier to just do the 4” lift. Plus if you’re only running a 3” level up front and leaving the rear alone or adding a spacer you WILL rub your bedside wheel well so you’ll need to remove the fender liners and possibly roll the edge of the wheel well to prevent damaging your bedside upon full compression.

Hope this helps

Very helpful. I have a great shop in Colorado that I’ve used several times for various truck setups so if it’s close I think we could make it work. The positives are that it sounds like a 4” with 37s on a zero offset should be close enough to work. Exactly what I’m looking for.

My guess is on a Rebel it even fits better given the slightly higher suspension?

 

[SKT Customs]

Very helpful. I have a great shop in Colorado that I’ve used several times for various truck setups so if it’s close I think we could make it work. The positives are that it sounds like a 4” with 37s on a zero offset should be close enough to work. Exactly what I’m looking for.

My guess is on a Rebel it even fits better given the slightly higher suspension?

It depends what suspension you go with; if you just add the standard 4” spacer that comes with the lift kit then yes the front of the truck will be an inch taller than a standard 1500 with a 4” lift. If you opt for coilovers then the truck will be the same height regardless if it’s a rebel since you’re replacing the front coils entirely. But it’s true the rebel’s front bumper offers better clearance so that’ll help up front! I can’t wait to see it!

 

[boogielander]

Was my favorite truck I’ve ever owned, but it was just a tank and was impractical for my family and I on the daily. I went to a family wagon (Tahoe) but am now working towards getting back into a truck. The tire setup is everything to me.

i see. hahaha i'm the opposite I'm actually considering 2500 to be my next.
i guess i'm compensating LOL

 

[boogielander]

Very helpful. I have a great shop in Colorado that I’ve used several times for various truck setups so if it’s close I think we could make it work. The positives are that it sounds like a 4” with 37s on a zero offset should be close enough to work. Exactly what I’m looking for.

My guess is on a Rebel it even fits better given the slightly higher suspension?

The higher suspension (1" lift) on Rebels no longer apply after new shocks and springs are installed. I mean, if you take the OE Rebel springs and shocks out and install 4", you'll get 4" BUT COMPARED TO stock Rebel, you gain 3" additional overall.

 

[suchta]

I am running 325/55r22 (36.1x12.8) Perelli Scorpion ATR. Zero trim and zero wheel spacers. All I have done is the 2 inch links and 2 inch air strut Daystar front Spacers. I think 37’s would fit with just a little trimming.