2019 Not Starting

[RobsRam]

Truck was in dealer for latest power down recall last Wednesday. Drove it 3X since, last time was to back it out then back in garage. Didn’t have any issues. Went to drive it tonight and it would not start just click-click-clicl, pop, pop, electrical shorting sounds, whirl, lights flashing, etc. Ignition stuck on run think starter running making noise non-stop. I had to disconnect battery to get it to stop. Tried to jump start still just click. Again disconnect battery to get starter to stop, ignition on run would not turn off when pressing button. Battery test 8.5 volts. What is going on???

 

[riccnick]

That sounds very dangerous. I'd disconnect the battery and get it towed to the dealership asap. Sorry to hear about that problem, definitely not something I've heard of before.

 

[RobsRam]

Quick update. Called for tow but ended up jumping it with a booster. Drove truck to dealer. On the drive I noticed, lost xm radio, no back up camera, engine light on, weak throttle, in some type of mode, volume on radio not the same. Waiting.

 

[riccnick]

Hope it goes well!

 

[Edwards]

Quick update. Called for tow but ended up jumping it with a booster. Drove truck to dealer. On the drive I noticed, lost xm radio, no back up camera, engine light on, weak throttle, in some type of mode, volume on radio not the same. Waiting.

All of those are computer controlled and aside from a bad module somewhere, it's probably due to the loss of power. all of the sub modules have to be re-powered and reconnected and then the master computer has to recognize them otherwise they won't work. Sometimes you need a restart or two for everything to handshake and work again. Just a quirk of modern, computer driven cars.

 

[RobsRam]

Update this is a 5.7 Hemi E-torque. 1:30 in shop. Battery tested good, no bad cells but low. Dealer charged it, reset and rebooted, everything seems back to normal. The battery voltage on the way to the dealer was reading 14.1-14.4. On the way home 13.3-13.6??? What caused the power down I ask? Something with the positive cable. I said it was very difficult to get either of the cables off the battery. Dealer says we think we left a cable loose when you were here on Wednesday and we did the recalls.HMMMMM guess we will see.

 

[RamCares]

Quick update. Called for tow but ended up jumping it with a booster. Drove truck to dealer. On the drive I noticed, lost xm radio, no back up camera, engine light on, weak throttle, in some type of mode, volume on radio not the same. Waiting.

Hello RobsRam,

We're sorry to hear you're having such a tough time with your new Ram. Keep us updated on your dealer visit. If any assistance is needed, don't hesitate to send us a direct message.

Jasmine
Ram Social Care Specialist

 

[RobsRam]

Same issue again. Truck wouldn’t start needed a jump. Voltage meter reading 14.1-14.4 battery display reads just above e half. After last visit to dealer battery voltage never made it above 14 pretty much stayed 13-13.9. Waiting for a loaner.

 

[RobsRam]

Could this be an E-torque battery going bad issue???

 

[riccnick]

Unfortunately, with how difficult it is to diag a bad regular 12V battery in person, and how many electronic points of failure there are on any new vehicle, it's going to be real tough for anyone here in the forum world to give you a good, practical diagnosis. The right people have it in their hands now. If you get it back again and it dies, don't jump it. Get it towed to them so they can diag before it's jumped.

 

[Ranger]

Checklist for hunting this gremlin:

1. eTorque battery and connections. If the battery or connectors are bad, it will negatively impact the charging system. Not much troubleshooting you can do other than visual of the battery unit and it's terminals. Have the dealer run a diagnostic on the 48v system.
2. Charging system (any codes thrown?)
3. Positive terminal battery cable was mentioned earlier, but this nightmare sounds more like a ground/negative terminal issue. Any lose, frayed, damaged, melted, etc. wiring visible in the engine bay?
4. eTorque power unit (motor/generator in the engine bay). If it isn't switching from motor to generator and vice a versa correctly, it will negatively affect the charging system

 

[RobsRam]

Unfortunately, with how difficult it is to diag a bad regular 12V battery in person, and how many electronic points of failure there are on any new vehicle, it's going to be real tough for anyone here in the forum world to give you a good, practical diagnosis. The right people have it in their hands now. If you get it back again and it dies, don't jump it. Get it towed to them so they can diag before it's jumped.

This time the truck was flat-bedded to the dealer only hooked up to booster to get it into neutral.

 

[RobsRam]

Checklist for hunting this gremlin:

1. eTorque battery and connections. If the battery or connectors are bad, it will negatively impact the charging system. Not much troubleshooting you can do other than visual of the battery unit and it's terminals. Have the dealer run a diagnostic on the 48v system.
2. Charging system (any codes thrown?)
3. Positive terminal battery cable was mentioned earlier, but this nightmare sounds more like a ground/negative terminal issue. Any lose, frayed, damaged, melted, etc. wiring visible in the engine bay?
4. eTorque power unit (motor/generator in the engine bay). If it isn't switching from motor to generator and vice a versa correctly, it will negatively affect the charging system

There were no codes thrown on the prior dealer repair invoices. Can’t imagine how that is possible with all the electrical popping noises under the hood. There’s no starter in the truck so not sure what the black unit is alongside front rightside of the engine, but that would not turn off the first time I had the issue.

Never had a problem with the truck until the dealer did the three recalls all at once.

 

[Goatmann]

This time the truck was flat-bedded to the dealer only hooked up to booster to get it into neutral.

for those who do not know there is a manual park release
copied from the 2019 Owners Manual

 

[silver billet]

There were no codes thrown on the prior dealer repair invoices. Can’t imagine how that is possible with all the electrical popping noises under the hood. There’s no starter in the truck so not sure what the black unit is alongside front rightside of the engine, but that would not turn off the first time I had the issue.

Never had a problem with the truck until the dealer did the three recalls all at once.

Maybe a loose connection to the battery somewhere? That might explain the popping/arcing noises, the under volting, and the glitches as sensors/devices don't have enough power to run correctly.

 

[RobsRam]

Maybe a loose connection to the battery somewhere? That might explain the popping/arcing noises, the under volting, and the glitches as sensors/devices don't have enough power to run correctly.

That’s what the dealer said it was the first time then it happened again.

 

[RobsRam]

Maybe a loose connection to the battery somewhere? That might explain the popping/arcing noises, the under volting, and the glitches as sensors/devices don't have enough power to run correctly.

Wouldn’t that short some relays fuses etc? 9,000 miles on the truck with no issues, battery ground recall, brake pedal recall, and a software recall, completed all at the same time, then I get a battery issue after driving the truck over 100 miles. Get the truck back drive it close to 180 miles and it happens again. The first time the dealer believed it was a loose connect, which they believed they mistakenly left loose doing the recall work, didn’t replace anything charged the battery for less then an hour, says the battery was good.

 

[silver billet]

Wouldn’t that short some relays fuses etc? 9,000 miles on the truck with no issues, battery ground recall, brake pedal recall, and a software recall, completed all at the same time, then I get a battery issue after driving the truck over 100 miles. Get the truck back drive it close to 180 miles and it happens again. The first time the dealer believed it was a loose connect, which they believed they mistakenly left loose doing the recall work, didn’t replace anything charged the battery for less then an hour, says the battery was good.

I'm no electrician, so take what I say with a grain of salt. But the fact they did a "ground recall" and then you start getting symptoms I have seen in loose connections, to me that seems suspicious. You might still have a loose ground.

 

[RobsRam]

Dealer replaced the battery under the hood and is holding the truck to see what happens. I’m starting to get a bad feeling.

 

[RobsRam]

Just wanted to update post. Dealer replaced the battery under the hood and the truck has had no issues since.