2.5" Lift/Level - Opinion of my Selections

[st102688]

Good afternoon,

I've been lurking around here for some time trying to search around for information from everybody that has lifted/leveled their trucks. My hope is to maintain some/most of the factory rake as the bed is loaded with significant loads a few times a week as well as fit 35X12.5R18 tires.

Regarding the front, the plan will be to install Bilstein 5100's (setting for 2.2" or 2.6" of lift) along with the upper control arms out of the Mopar 2" lift kit. I am not averse to having to do some grinding to get the tires to fit.

As for the rear, I am thinking about going with Tuftrucks variable rate rear springs which provide 1.5ish inches of lift. From what I was told, the rate is identical to the factory springs during the first 2 inches of travel and from there it increases. I wasn't able to find much on here from people who have tried them.

At the end of the day I would like to maintain as much of the factory ride as possible while making the truck a bit more capable of hauling a load. Let me know your thoughts!



Thanks!
Steve

 

[Shots]

This sounds like a great combo, and probably what I'm looking for. To make sure I understand correctly, you'd be adding 2.2 - 2.6 up front (depending on Bilstein setting) and 1.5 in the rear. Essentially reducing rake by about 1" while adding 2" ish of overall height. Sound right?

 

[st102688]

That sounds correct! You also need to factor in the height you'll gain from bigger tires if you choose to deviate from the stock size. Whatever tire size I land on will dictate the setting I use.

I've also been looking at the Icon rear springs too, completely undecided though.

 

[Shots]

My truck fits in the garage right now, but not by much. I'm going to be putting on a set of Rebel wheels/tires so the tire size will be 1.2" bigger. That'll raise the truck about 5/8", so if I do a 2.2 setting that'll take it to just under 3" taller overall. That gives me about an inch to spare between the top of the door and the top of the fin antenna.

 

[st102688]

I guess I'm wavering a bit as I read through the mountains of information on here. It seems like most who run a 2" level/lift aren't getting quite up to a 35" tire. I may just bite the bullet with very little confidence and order the wheels and tires l while hoping for the best.

Overall height isn't an issue for me, plenty of clearance in the garage. I just seem to be drawn to the 35" tire on 18's look!

 

[Shots]

LOL I was that way with my '14 Ram. You want what you want some times.
That said. I had 34's on my Jeep and they were only 0.4" smaller than my buddy's 35's. It turns our 35's are commonly undersized. However, you may be able to find a set of 34's you like that gives you the wee little bit of difference you need to clear with a 2" kit while not having a visual difference from a 35.

 

[Shots]

I ordered my lift and control arms. They UCA's got canceled because the vin didn't match my VIN. Well no kidding that's why I ordered them, because the stock UCA's aren't the same as these. Some times computers are too dang literal. I just ordered them again, but didn't give the VIN this time so it doesn't cancel the order.

Thanks for the part numbers btw, it made finding them much easier.

 

[st102688]

I just got all of my stuff ordered too (finally). I didn't end up ordering the rear springs. Figure I'll start with 1.5" spacers to look at the stance and then I'll follow up with springs in the rear if all is well. Ended up going with Fuel Shok 18x9 -12, 295/70R18s, Mopar UCAs, and Bilstein 5100s.

Everything should be delivered sometime next week. I'll follow up with pictures once I get everything mounted up.

Hopefully the -12 offset isn't too much for my taste!

 

[dannymcd]

I just did the 5100's on 2.6" level 7 lift in the front and a 1.5" spacer in the rear, you have a 1" rake from ground to top of wheel well but looks level. I'm using stock UCA's because the bilstiens are only 1in longer over all, the other 1.5" is achieved with spring preload. so techically the UCA's never see an angle more than what they would with the OEM off-road kit. I tow with mine and with 700lbs of tongue weight on a WDH and airbags it squats more than that 1" so I would recommend going with a 2" rear if you tow or go with some HD rear springs which is going to probably be my next upgrade. the 5100's do a great job of stopping seesawing that can happen when towing over uneven roads.

 

[Shots]

Any photos of the truck with the new setup?
I went with a 1.5" rear too, because I wanted to keep a little rake, while having a more level stance.

I think I'll probably add load assist air bags to the rear for when I haul heavy. I've put them on multiple trucks, and I like that they don't affect the unladen ride, but can be aired up when needed to prevent sag.

 

[dannymcd]

Here she is, I've ordered some 275/65r20's. I have the airlift 1000HD's that seem to have a slow leak somewhere, I just pumped them up to 48psi and parked for 2 hrs I lost 2psi. I bubble sprayed everything and couldn't find it, I'm guessing it's the Schrader valve but it's so slow that didn't bubble either.

 

[st102688]

Great info, thanks.

I ordered 1.5" spacers for the rear just to get an idea of the stance. Chances are though, HD springs are next in line.

I've seen a fair amount of posts about the icon rear springs and a few about the Tuftrucks. Are there anymore options out there?

 

[Shots]

Thanks for the photo. Looks good.

 

[Dire Wolf]

Great info, thanks.

I ordered 1.5" spacers for the rear just to get an idea of the stance. Chances are though, HD springs are next in line.

I've seen a fair amount of posts about the icon rear springs and a few about the Tuftrucks. Are there anymore options out there?

I had the Tufftruck 1211 on my 4th gen since it sagged a ton with OEM springs and my #648 ATV in the bed and when trailering two ATVs. 1211 lifted the rear about 1.5" I think because my OEMs were squashed from carrying the ATV. LOVED the 1211. So much so that I pulled them to add to my 5th gen when I traded the old truck in. Now I have the ORP in my 5th gen and they do not sag, so never installed the 1211's.
Bottom line, the 1211's worked very well for me.
And, if you haven't gone down the rabbit hole of the Hellwig rear sway bar, I highly recommend you do so. A VAST improvement in handling!

 

[dannymcd]

Thanks for the photo. Looks good.

Here it is with 275/65R20 tires on it, they're Michelin Agilis crossclimate

 

[lkjk]

Here it is with 275/65R20 tires on it, they're Michelin Agilis crossclimate

Looks good. You should take a shot next to a stock truck

 

[Shots]

I put my lift on yesterday. I couldn't get the UCA ball joint to release so I ended up disconnecting it at the frame and just leaving it attached to the knuckle while I worked on the rest.
Which obviously means I haven't installed my replacement UCA's yet. I'm going to buy the lifetime alignment when I get it done today so I don't have to pay again after I revisit this.

Interestingly though, the ball joint angle doesn't seem bad. I'm still going to try to find the proper tools to remove the ball joint since a hammer wasn't getting it done (and since I've already got the replacement). In the mean time I'm not too worried about driving with them at their current angles.

The two comparison photos attached are the same thing, just that one is zoomed to show the ball joint. I do see that the knuckle seems basically parallel with the strut assembly in the stock configuration, but not in the lifted configuration. I wonder if after alignment and the camber is corrected if the ball joint angle will look worse.

 

[st102688]

I wish I had compared the stock with the Mopar UCAs. From prior reading, the Mopar UCAs just allow for more articulation of the ball joint, they don't necessarily change the angle. Somebody feel free to correct me if this is incorrect. This may explain your angle observation!

This is an overdue reply but I've gotten everything (front and rear) installed. To sum everything up in case somebody is looking for information in the future, below is what I've done.

• Front:
  • Bilstein 5100's on the #6 setting (2.2")
  • Mopar UCAs
• Rear:
  • Tuftruck TTC-1223 VT springs (They are variable rate and give roughly 1.5" lift)
• Wheels: Fuel Shok 18x9, -12 offset
• Tires: 295/65R18 Nitto Ridge Grapplers

After letting everything settle for a couple of weeks the top of the front wheel well sits at 40-1/4" with the top of the rear wheel well sitting at 41-3/8". I did experience a bit of rubbing in situations where I would be at full lock and reversing up a grade. 15 minutes with a heat gun took care of the issue and it hasn't presented itself since.

The ride was not affected nearly as much as I thought. Initially, I wanted the Open Country AT3's but they appear to still be on a national backorder. I went with the Ridge Grapplers and was a bit worried about road noise - it's absolutely not a problem. I guess I attribute this to the higher center of gravity and the larger sidewall than the 22" wheel/tire combo I had, but the truck seems a bit lazy on winding roads. Next step is likely a Hellwig swaybar to see if I can get rid of it. This is pretty minor though.

Lastly, if I were to live in a perfect world I would probably raise the rear another 1/2" but I'm not aware of anybody who makes a 1/2" spacer!

 

[70runner]

Just installed the 5100s on my Rebel with the Mopar UCAs. Two reasons: increased articulation, digital angle gauge showed 4deg increase over OE, and stock appearance (dealer hassles). Also could not get the UCA bj to release with 5lb sledge to knuckle, then fork. Had to modify my HF bj tool and that finally worked. Both wheel wells now at 40.5" height, stock wheels/tires.

 

[Whoa_Ram]

Lastly, if I were to live in a perfect world I would probably raise the rear another 1/2" but I'm not aware of anybody who makes a 1/2" spacer!

Check eBay. I have some 1/2” spacers that fit out trucks. I ordered a set a while back and used them for a bit but took them off when I wanted more of a level look.