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1st Oil/Lube

People seem to argue they "are crap filters" but the nut-fitting on the bottom of the K&N filter helps a ton. They run maybe $4-5 more than an average quality filter but the convenience is nice. Now if I could only find a way not to get oil all over everything. Tried the plastic bag trick and it's a trick in itself getting it to work.
I like K&N filters. Same filter as Mobil1, just in a different can. At least the ones I've cut open were identical inside to Mobil1. Currently use Mopar SRT filters in my Built to Serve.
 
Page 342 of owners manual.


Synthetic Engine Oils
Your engine was designed for synthetic engine oils, only
use synthetic API approved engine oils.
Synthetic engine oils which do not have both the correct
API trademark and the correct SAE viscosity grade
numbers should not be used.
2019 Owner's Manual - 5.7 hemi
You may use synthetic engine oils provided the recommended oil quality requirements are met, and the recommended maintenance intervals for oil and filter changes are followed. Synthetic engine oils which do not have both the engine oil certification mark and the correct SAE viscosity grade number should not be used.

So what changed in the Hemi?
 
2019 Owner's Manual - 5.7 hemi
You may use synthetic engine oils provided the recommended oil quality requirements are met, and the recommended maintenance intervals for oil and filter changes are followed. Synthetic engine oils which do not have both the engine oil certification mark and the correct SAE viscosity grade number should not be used.

So what changed in the Hemi?
What is the change interval for 2019? Synthetic lasts longer without breaking down, and actually protects better. Maybe it's better to prevent the Hemi tick. Whatever the reason, it says use only synthetic now. (23 manual)
 
What is the change interval for 2019? Synthetic lasts longer without breaking down, and actually protects better. Maybe it's better to prevent the Hemi tick. Whatever the reason, it says use only synthetic now. (23 manual)

I still have the tick and have never put anything but synthetic in my truck. Granted, I started with Mobil 1 which we know is "semi-synthetic." Now exclusively AmsOil which is full. I never bothered to look at the change interval. I go by the reminder on the dash. It's probably way sooner than needed because the AmsOil stuff I use is supposedly good for 12k.
 
I still have the tick and have never put anything but synthetic in my truck. Granted, I started with Mobil 1 which we know is "semi-synthetic." Now exclusively AmsOil which is full. I never bothered to look at the change interval. I go by the reminder on the dash. It's probably way sooner than needed because the AmsOil stuff I use is supposedly good for 12k.
What makes you think Mobil One is "semi-synthetic"? It's full synthetic, not partial. At least what I use is and always has been. The extended performance is 100% full synthetic just like AmsOil.
 
What makes you think Mobil One is "semi-synthetic"? It's full synthetic, not partial. At least what I use is and always has been. The extended performance is 100% full synthetic just like AmsOil.

You might be right. Back a couple years ago, it was in-fact not. It was "synthetic blend." Now the new one is "Advanced Full Synthetic."
 
You might be right. Back a couple years ago, it was in-fact not. It was "synthetic blend." Now the new one is "Advanced Full Synthetic."
It's been full synthetic since 2000 when I stated using it in my Dakota. They did make a synthetic blend and a full synthetic. Now it is just the full synthetic, can't find the blend anymore.
 
It's been full synthetic since 2000 when I stated using it in my Dakota. They did make a synthetic blend and a full synthetic. Now it is just the full synthetic, can't find the blend anymore.

Well if that's the case, it did nothing for the hemi tick. So we can put that to rest lol.
 
You might be right. Back a couple years ago, it was in-fact not. It was "synthetic blend." Now the new one is "Advanced Full Synthetic."
It's always been "full synthetic". The only thing that changed was the "official" definition of what a synthetic oil was. It used to mean a true group 4 synthetic, like Amsoil, made from PAO or other man made sources. Then Castrol started selling group 3 hydro cracked oil marketing it as synthetic because it had the same properties as the PAO based synthetic. Mobil1 sued Castrol and lost. So now most of the synthetic oil you buy from major brands in any local store is a group 3 hydrocrcked synthetic, including Mobil1. Even Amsoil sells a cheaper group 3 oil now. Mobil1 use to be a PAO oil before the Castrol lawsuit
 
Well if it is a tick, look up "HEMI tick" and you might realize it is a broken bolt on the exhaust manifold (typically passenger side, rear bolt) allowing exhaust gas to escape/leak. Just did mine this weekend and if you're "lucky" is very obvious as the sheared off stud under the bolt head you can identify if that is the case by simply pushing on the heat shield and it will readily move indicating the underside of the stud snapped. Mine was the rear stud on the passenger side of the exhaust manifold. The entire cast iron manifold was warped pretty bad (1/8" from front to back) and likely would recur. Assuming the warping was thermally set in, used angle grinder to smooth out the difference (from about 1/8" down to maybe a 1/32" to 1/16" and with new gasket is performing well again. Alternatively consider new headers as this is an overall bad design if that warped. My truck has 75,500 miles on it so out of warranty.
 

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Well if it is a tick, look up "HEMI tick" and you might realize it is a broken bolt on the exhaust manifold (typically passenger side, rear bolt) allowing exhaust gas to escape/leak. Just did mine this weekend and if you're "lucky" is very obvious as the sheared off stud under the bolt head you can identify if that is the case by simply pushing on the heat shield and it will readily move indicating the underside of the stud snapped. Mine was the rear stud on the passenger side of the exhaust manifold. The entire cast iron manifold was warped pretty bad (1/8" from front to back) and likely would recur. Assuming the warping was thermally set in, used angle grinder to smooth out the difference (from about 1/8" down to maybe a 1/32" to 1/16" and with new gasket is performing well again. Alternatively consider new headers as this is an overall bad design if that warped. My truck has 75,500 miles on it so out of warranty.
There are two different things known as "Hemi tick". One is the exhaust, and the other is the ticking of the lifters, on cold start, from them leaking down. The second goes away as soon as the oil has pressure, and is considered normal.
 
What is the change interval for 2019? Synthetic lasts longer without breaking down, and actually protects better. Maybe it's better to prevent the Hemi tick. Whatever the reason, it says use only synthetic now. (23 manual)

Per the manual
"Change Engine Oil The oil change indicator system will remind you that it is time to take your vehicle in for scheduled maintenance. Refer to the “Maintenance Plan” for further information. NOTE: Under no circumstances should oil change intervals exceed 10,000 miles (16,000 km), twelve months or 350 hours of engine run time, whichever comes first. The 350 hours of engine run or idle time is generally only a concern for fleet customers"
 
For 2025, Ram will introduce a new oil that requires just removal of the dip stick and spray it with this.
1695211405511.jpeg
 
Does no one punch a hole in the side of the filter to drain it before removing it? This has always helped keep things clean for me on my vehicles.
 
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