1st Oil Change Questions - Warranty voiding...

[dpregs]

Hey all,
I am going to be doing my first oil change despite the dire warning from the finance person at the dealership. She warned that if I don't have it done and logged at their place or equivalent shop I would be voiding my warranty and will run into problems. I don't see how that is possible and how they can do that, SO...I will be doing my own oil changes. I will keep a record of receipts, dates completed, mileage completed.

I have some questions that I hope you can help with. I have watched A LOT, to the point where my wife is going to kill me, of videos on how to change the oil. I know that it is going to be a pain, but I'm in it to win it. So, here are my questions:

1. Going to use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-20 and Mobil 1 M1-113A filter, Yes No?

2. I am going to put the truck up on jack stands because I also want to rotate my tires. I know that I jack it up under the rear transfer case, do I put the jack stands on the rear frame or axle Where do I jack the front up? Jack stands on the frame? YES I KNOW what some are going to say, don't do it if you don't know, but I know how I did it on my old truck, just don't want to mess up the new truck and want to be sure before I do anything. No time like the present to learn, and I appreciate any advice.

3. I have the air suspension, I am pretty sure I saw a setting that puts it into service mode.

4. Is it wise to put on a new drain plug like the Fumoto F106sx? Will it hit the sway bar at full off road height?

Again, I really appreciate all the help and advice you can give!!!

 

[Scram1500]

The Magnuson-Moss Act allows you to perform routine maintenance on your vehicle, such as oil changes and adding cold air intakes, without voiding warranties. Just document and keep receipts as you said.

I would however use Mopar approved parts. Do not use aftermarket oil filters, Mopar only

As far as tire rotation, my method is support rear axle on jack stands, jack up left front then right front, usually on frame. With a jack stand or tire under vehicle in case the jack fails of course.

 

[SpeedyV]

Hey all,
I am going to be doing my first oil change despite the dire warning from the finance person at the dealership. She warned that if I don't have it done and logged at their place or equivalent shop I would be voiding my warranty and will run into problems. I don't see how that is possible and how they can do that, SO...I will be doing my own oil changes. I will keep a record of receipts, dates completed, mileage completed.

I have some questions that I hope you can help with. I have watched A LOT, to the point where my wife is going to kill me, of videos on how to change the oil. I know that it is going to be a pain, but I'm in it to win it. So, here are my questions:

1. Going to use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-20 and Mobil 1 M1-113A filter, Yes No?

2. I am going to put the truck up on jack stands because I also want to rotate my tires. I know that I jack it up under the rear transfer case, do I put the jack stands on the rear frame or axle Where do I jack the front up? Jack stands on the frame? YES I KNOW what some are going to say, don't do it if you don't know, but I know how I did it on my old truck, just don't want to mess up the new truck and want to be sure before I do anything. No time like the present to learn, and I appreciate any advice.

3. I have the air suspension, I am pretty sure I saw a setting that puts it into service mode.

4. Is it wise to put on a new drain plug like the Fumoto F106sx? Will it hit the sway bar at full off road height?

Again, I really appreciate all the help and advice you can give!!!

Just speaking to 1 and 4...”yes” and “it’s helpful”.

 

[dpregs]

The Magnuson-Moss Act allows you to perform routine maintenance on your vehicle, such as oil changes and adding cold air intakes, without voiding warranties. Just document add keep receipts as you said.

I would however use Mopar approved parts. Do not use aftermarket oil filters, Mopar only

As far as tire rotation, my method is support rear axle on jack stands, jack up left front then right front, usually on frame. With a jack stand or tire under vehicle in case the jack fails of course.

Why not a quality aftermarket filter? Just curious really.

 

[Scram1500]

Why not a quality aftermarket filter? Just curious really.

The dealer or an insurance company can deny a claim if damage occurs, been through it once myself with an aftermarket oil filter.

More importantly the OEM filter has a valve that maintains a certain amount of oil in the lines to prevent dry starts. Quality aftermarket filters may or may not have this valve

 

[RJS]

Hey all,
I am going to be doing my first oil change despite the dire warning from the finance person at the dealership. She warned that if I don't have it done and logged at their place or equivalent shop I would be voiding my warranty and will run into problems. I don't see how that is possible and how they can do that, SO...I will be doing my own oil changes. I will keep a record of receipts, dates completed, mileage completed.

I have some questions that I hope you can help with. I have watched A LOT, to the point where my wife is going to kill me, of videos on how to change the oil. I know that it is going to be a pain, but I'm in it to win it. So, here are my questions:

1. Going to use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-20 and Mobil 1 M1-113A filter, Yes No?

2. I am going to put the truck up on jack stands because I also want to rotate my tires. I know that I jack it up under the rear transfer case, do I put the jack stands on the rear frame or axle Where do I jack the front up? Jack stands on the frame? YES I KNOW what some are going to say, don't do it if you don't know, but I know how I did it on my old truck, just don't want to mess up the new truck and want to be sure before I do anything. No time like the present to learn, and I appreciate any advice.

3. I have the air suspension, I am pretty sure I saw a setting that puts it into service mode.

4. Is it wise to put on a new drain plug like the Fumoto F106sx? Will it hit the sway bar at full off road height?

Again, I really appreciate all the help and advice you can give!!!

I understand the drive to change one's own oil but my dealership has a coupon on site that sells 3 oil changes (full synthetic w/filter and tire rotation) for $154.95. (Semi synthetic - $99.99) That's close to the price of the oil and filter. If you're that concerned why not check the dealers site and if they offer something like this give them a call and let them do it. I certainly will after I get the three free ones done that I got for buying it there. They use Pennzoil full at my dealership.

 

[dpregs]

I understand the drive to change one's own oil but my dealership has a coupon on site that sells 3 oil changes (full synthetic w/filter and tire rotation) for $154.95. (Semi synthetic - $99.99) That's close to the price of the oil and filter. If you're that concerned why not check the dealers site and if they offer something like this give them a call and let them do it. I certainly will after I get the three free ones done that I got for buying it there. They use Pennzoil full at my dealership.

good to know. I am actually headed there today after work to have them look at my rusting lug nuts, I'll see if they have a oil change package.

 

[Kidder]

The finance person is full of ****. Use a Mopar filter and the oil within specs. Keep the receipts.

 

[Love2driveRAM19]

dpregs,

More power to you for doing it yourself. As far as the jacking up the vehicle, I would suggest a couple of ideas along with the other advice in here to help you. When BMW told me the cost of oil change, I used that money and went out and purchased a nice low profile floor jack and set of jack stands and oil/filter etc for the price they wanted.

1. Find a shop that will allow you to watch as to where they jack the vehicle up, so you clearly know and understand how to do it if this is new to you.

2. Find a certified mechanic, while you have to be careful there are some on craigslist or look up mobile mechanics. As long as you can verify they are certified, you can get the help. This may cost you for your initial/jack up-rotate etc...and answer many of your questions which you will be able to handle in the future.

3. Ask around and find out if any of the mechanics at your stealership or other stealerships that do side work. Again, may cost you initially but then you have a great contact person that works at the stealership and knows your vehicle. Especially when it comes to bigger mechanical situations.

While you have all kinds of help on the products etc.....make that SAFETY priority---learn it right practice it always.

Fast forward....brakes/rotors/control arms/spark plugs/CCV crank case ventilation kit/oil filter housing gasket/valve cover gasket etc... fun stuff learned sooo much!!! Wrench until you can't....BE SAFE

 

[speedracernc]

I understand the drive to change one's own oil but my dealership has a coupon on site that sells 3 oil changes (full synthetic w/filter and tire rotation) for $154.95. (Semi synthetic - $99.99) That's close to the price of the oil and filter. If you're that concerned why not check the dealers site and if they offer something like this give them a call and let them do it. I certainly will after I get the three free ones done that I got for buying it there. They use Pennzoil full at my dealership.

My dealership offers the same deal however if you have a hemi or need more than 5qts there is a higher charge. Also they have to be used with-in two years. Anyone now how much extra they charge for the hemi and extra 2qts of oil?

 

[Jako]

Hey all,
I am going to be doing my first oil change despite the dire warning from the finance person at the dealership. She warned that if I don't have it done and logged at their place or equivalent shop I would be voiding my warranty and will run into problems. I don't see how that is possible and how they can do that, SO...I will be doing my own oil changes. I will keep a record of receipts, dates completed, mileage completed.

I have some questions that I hope you can help with. I have watched A LOT, to the point where my wife is going to kill me, of videos on how to change the oil. I know that it is going to be a pain, but I'm in it to win it. So, here are my questions:

1. Going to use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-20 and Mobil 1 M1-113A filter, Yes No?

2. I am going to put the truck up on jack stands because I also want to rotate my tires. I know that I jack it up under the rear transfer case, do I put the jack stands on the rear frame or axle Where do I jack the front up? Jack stands on the frame? YES I KNOW what some are going to say, don't do it if you don't know, but I know how I did it on my old truck, just don't want to mess up the new truck and want to be sure before I do anything. No time like the present to learn, and I appreciate any advice.

3. I have the air suspension, I am pretty sure I saw a setting that puts it into service mode.

4. Is it wise to put on a new drain plug like the Fumoto F106sx? Will it hit the sway bar at full off road height?

Again, I really appreciate all the help and advice you can give!!!

Valvomax is another option: https://www.valvomax.com/
Purchased, install on next oil change.
It is fairly well documented on the forum that the filter is difficult to remove the first time. I opted to let the dealership "wrestle" it off.

 

[Kidder]

The problem with these new trucks is getting to the filter. My 2011 4WD was a piece of cake. This one, not so much. It's easy on a rack, I watched the mechanic do it. Lying on your back in a garage, is difficult to get leverage. I need to get ramps to do it myself. Or, find the coupons for oil change specials.

 

[79 300]

I used to do all my own oil changes, but now it doesn't really pay to. Till I buy 7 quarts at around $5 or $6 each, a good filter for $8 , I spent close to $50 and then have to get rid of the drain oil as well. My dealer does it for around $45 with synthetic blend in the truck and full synthetic in my 392 Challenger for around $65. As for the tire rotation, we got that done on my wife's Jeep this week at the same dealer, cost $9.95. It's not worth all that jacking up, lifting tires around, breaking your back to save a lousy ten bucks in my opinion.

I do still service our lawn tractor and front end loader though, so I didn't totally give up on the do it yourself yet. Good luck to the OP though.

 

[rotts4u]

My local Jeep/Ram dealer just performed a big warranty repair on my jeep which was lifters and cam replacement at 76K miles for 0$ under the powertrain warranty. He asked about oil changes and I said I do them all myself as well as axles, transfer case etc etc. He said they technician commented that my vehicle was clearly maintained well because the engine was clean etc as is the vehicle. They can tell when something is well maintained. Ive never had a warranty issue and I never get the dealer to do oil changes

 

[jdefoe0424]

Hey all,
I am going to be doing my first oil change despite the dire warning from the finance person at the dealership. She warned that if I don't have it done and logged at their place or equivalent shop I would be voiding my warranty and will run into problems. I don't see how that is possible and how they can do that, SO...I will be doing my own oil changes. I will keep a record of receipts, dates completed, mileage completed.

I have some questions that I hope you can help with. I have watched A LOT, to the point where my wife is going to kill me, of videos on how to change the oil. I know that it is going to be a pain, but I'm in it to win it. So, here are my questions:

1. Going to use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-20 and Mobil 1 M1-113A filter, Yes No?

2. I am going to put the truck up on jack stands because I also want to rotate my tires. I know that I jack it up under the rear transfer case, do I put the jack stands on the rear frame or axle Where do I jack the front up? Jack stands on the frame? YES I KNOW what some are going to say, don't do it if you don't know, but I know how I did it on my old truck, just don't want to mess up the new truck and want to be sure before I do anything. No time like the present to learn, and I appreciate any advice.

3. I have the air suspension, I am pretty sure I saw a setting that puts it into service mode.

4. Is it wise to put on a new drain plug like the Fumoto F106sx? Will it hit the sway bar at full off road height?

Again, I really appreciate all the help and advice you can give!!!

Like others have said, read up on Moss Magnuson.
Now, what you do get by doing your own changes is knowing that you've looked at everything while you're underneath your vehicle.
You also know exactly what oil you're putting in and able to put in the best oil you can buy. I can assure that you would be surprised what you could do a change for using the OE line of AMSOIL and a WIX filter.
Feel free to PM me for more info on pricing

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

 

[raven_DT]

The dealer or an insurance company can deny a claim if damage occurs, been through it once myself with an aftermarket oil filter.

More importantly the OEM filter has a valve that maintains a certain amount of oil in the lines to prevent dry starts. Quality aftermarket filters may or may not have this valve

They can only deny the claim if they can PROVE that the use of a non-oem product caused the damage.

 

[Love2driveRAM19]

I used to do all my own oil changes, but now it doesn't really pay to. Till I buy 7 quarts at around $5 or $6 each, a good filter for $8 , I spent close to $50 and then have to get rid of the drain oil as well. My dealer does it for around $45 with synthetic blend in the truck and full synthetic in my 392 Challenger for around $65. As for the tire rotation, we got that done on my wife's Jeep this week at the same dealer, cost $9.95. It's not worth all that jacking up, lifting tires around, breaking your back to save a lousy ten bucks in my opinion.

I do still service our lawn tractor and front end loader though, so I didn't totally give up on the do it yourself yet. Good luck to the OP though.

Great info by 79 300 explaining when it is good to do it yourself and when its better off going to stealership/certified business that can do it for you especially when it is almost the same dollars (or close to it). Time factor is important as you can be doing other things with kids/spouse/family with that time it takes to wrench.

I still enjoy doing my "shade tree mechanic" stuff when I can still hobby I enjoy. With my back and neck issues it boils down to if it is a good day or a bad day, is it worth it vs. outsourcing to stealership/certified location etc.

First before you read any further, I will say there are some great, reputable certified mechanic shops out there. In this one example of a bad apple certified mechanic shop you will cringe!!!

True story, will give shorten version--- Being knowledgeable enough while I was visiting my sister in Pa, she wanted me to handle/negotiate going to a certified mechanic shop for her BMW X5 air bag suspension. This shop my other sister had used for several years with good results. Long story short, watch your mileage on those "test" drives after vehicle is fixed. The arrogant/stupid/ "insert everything else here" Owner of this shop claimed they test drove it to make sure everything worked (which it did). The Boneheads drove 2 hours away and went to a Philly's game, left a change of clothes in the vehicle and...wait for it..... left the ticket stub for the parking at the game in the back seat!!!!! Someone went on a dang DATE and left the female change of clothes ticket and few other things in the damn vehicle...good to show up earlier than expected with your other key to check out vehicle(and note your mileage when you leave it and compare it when you get it)!!! No wonder she couldn't get the vehicle back days earlier!!!!

Yes, owner admitted it after I did my Perry Mason breakdown and threatened news channel, yes all was free. My sister was going to report it, I never did find out what she did, I returned to Florida.

Sometimes when I DIY my own vehicle, I think...one less game my vehicle has to attend without me!!!

So find a shop you can trust...but always verify!!!

 

[RJS]

While I agree that you have the law on your side, potentially, what's your time and aggravation worth. Ain't nobody gonna roll over if you want to press a refused claim as it's not in their interest to give in quickly. If you like changing your oil, etc. do it and keep all the receipts and other details, you'll probably be OK.
But in my case, I change everything in my street rods but the new vehicles go to the dealer, why? I'm going to have somebody change the oil and look it over anyway so why not take advantage of the dealers discounts and it there's a problem just let them handle it. If they find a continued set of records in your file I'll bet they feel better about helping you out than the guy they've never seen before banging on the service desk and threatening a law suit.

 

[Patsy1099]

My experience with multiple vehicles across brands has been the following. Can they (fca) deny warranty claims if you are under warranty and have properly maintained the vehicle? No. Does the MM act protect you? Yes. But sometimes short of threatening to sue and getting a lawyer, they can make your life extremely difficult.

Here’s why it isn’t as easy as it SHOULD be. All dealerships are independently owned and operated. They have agreements with the manufacturer, in this case FCA, but they aren’t obligated to work on any vehicle. The dealer makes their own independent decisions. FCA can pressure them but at the end of the day if the dealer makes up a bunch of excuses (or lies), the manufacturer will back off and the dealer does whatever they want.

So why would a dealer want to do this if the problem is covered under warranty and they are getting paid for the work anyway? Therein lies the answer. Because the dealer gets paid a fixed rate for jobs. Each issue has a rated number of hours allocated to it. The dealer has to get the issue fixed within those hours, at an agreed upon (reduced) rate. If not, they have to argue with corporate to get additional hours approved, etc.

That’s why when there is an undefined or unknown issue, the dealer doesn’t want to be bothered trying to figure it out, chasing down gremlins and going down rabbit holes. It’s hard for them to bill corporate for that time and again it’s at a reduced rate. So chasing down leaks and noises is going to be of zero interest to most dealers (not all, there are good ones) if it is a warranty issue. If you are paying out of pocket and not under warranty, it’s a whole different story. They will take all the time they need and bill you for it.

Ive been there several times before, not with FCA although I have no expectation they would be any different. I’d have a problem. It’s under warranty. Dealer can’t figure it out. Sorry, move along. Or we found it but we think it’s your fault (which translates to we aren’t going to get paid enough from corporate to fix it so we don’t want to do the work at a reduced rate). Move along. So you call corporate and they tell you that they will “try” to help and yes you are covered under warranty BUT they can’t force the dealer to do anything since they are independently owned. They will try to help you find another more reasonable dealer. That’s fine for the most part if you live somewhere where you can throw a quarter in any direction and hit a dealership but if you live somewhere where the dealers are separated by 100 miles, you better hope the dealer is good to work with because otherwise if you have issues you will learn that your warranty is only worth so much.

Anyway, that’s been my experience with warranties and dealers etc. I have found this to be the case across brands because it’s a dollars and cents thing. They are playing a volume game. Unfortunately no single customer is worth as much as you might like to think. Your experience is highly dependent on: 1 luck 2.) dealer 3.) location 4.) willingness and ability to argue 5.) willingness and ability to litigate if necessary

end rant. YMMV

 

[Timeless]

They can only deny the claim if they can PROVE that the use of a non-oem product caused the damage.

No, they can deny the claim for any reason they feel like stating.

It is then up to YOU to pay for a lawyer to sue them and hope you win and recoup your legal fees....and will probably take months if not longer to accomplish.

Lawyers typically require a substantial retainer to just get started which is why most people do not bother.