110 Outlet

[AmericanRebelution]

So where is the actual inverter located? Is it possible to remove and upgrade?

 

[Richard320]

So where is the actual inverter located? Is it possible to remove and upgrade?

The module is behind the radio in the dash. It's not really possible to upgrade. Not without a whole lot of other work that makes it simpler to start from scratch. Lets say you go for a 1000W inverter. At 13.2V nominal battery voltage, that's 76 Amps. That's going to need a #6 wire at least. #4 would be better. You're approaching battery cable thickness.

If you mount the inverter closer to the battery under the hood,, then a big fat cable is not such a problem. And 1000W at 120V is only 8.33 Amps. You can handle that with 18gauge wire -- that's like those really skinny extension cords at the 99¢ store. Even if you go up for the margin of safety, it's a lot easier to thread that wire.

 

[Bellbuoy0313]

Anything with a motor, and especially a compressor, requires a certain 'spike' of inrush current in order to start motion. A curling iron is a heating element which does not require large inrush. Gotta believe for safety reasons that these inverters can only handle moderate inrush, regardless of constant draw. I'd be curious too about having the motor running and whether that bit of charging voltage would make a difference. Over the years I've had a number of those small 12V compressors and never had a problem...

Andymax, so a small freezer to take on a fishing trip would fit into the category of a small compressor which requires a spike of current to start, so that would not run in my Ram. Correct?

 

[Aseras]

If the motor or compressor will not draw over 400w sustained, you can use a 1500VA UPS to power up and run the device. The UPS battery and transformer will handle the surge. I've used one to run a air compressor and shop vac that will just trip the regular inverter.

If you need more than that, you are going to have to get a real Inverter or carry a generator.

 

[Andymax]

Andymax, so a small freezer to take on a fishing trip would fit into the category of a small compressor which requires a spike of current to start, so that would not run in my Ram. Correct?

Well I'm certainly not able to say whether any particular device will or will not work. I'm sure there are some that have sufficient capacitors built in to absorb some inrush, but I have no way of knowing. For your sake I hope it does!

 

[LouNY]

If refrigeration is your main issue, look at this type of cooler box;
https://www.amazon.com/K-Box-Electr...3ca-403a-923c-8152c45485fe&tag=mashcontent-20
I have a small one in my tractor, it will keep cold drinks cool all day long.
Some of the claims for these may be a bit exaggerated mine will keep it around 40 F but no lower and if left in the cab with the ac off and just working on the 12 v it will struggle to keep it at 45F.

 

[gregse]

Yeah what Eighty said! Should have one above radio. I thought the same thing. Until I tossed my sunglasses up there and noticed it lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[gregse]

Remember, the center stack 12V only works with "key" on. U would have to go to yer interior fuse box and change setting on fuse to have the socket have power all the time.

OK: caveat: on MY 19, my center stack is fused "ignition only". U have to look at the socket cover and see if it has a "Key" symbol or a "Battery" symbol. It depends upon which symbol stamped on that lil cover on whether the outlet is active all the time or key only. On MY 19, it is key only, but I see the pic of the center stack on MurphBig horn truck (post # 7) and his shows battery, and his info shows a 2021 truck.

Remember, the center stack 12V only works with "key" on. U would have to go to yer interior fuse box and change setting on fuse to have the socket have power all the time.

OK: caveat: on MY 19, my center stack is fused "ignition only". U have to look at the socket cover and see if it has a "Key" symbol or a "Battery" symbol. It depends upon which symbol stamped on that lil cover on whether the outlet is active all the time or key only. On MY 19, it is key only, but I see the pic of the center stack on MurphBig horn truck (post # 7) and his shows battery, and his info shows a 2021 truck.

My 2021 2500 has this fuse in F90/91. it's a 3 contact in the buss. One position is hot all the time, the other is only when key is on.

 

[AV8OR]

 

[Camelot]

I know its already pointed out that its 3.63 amp. I=P / U ---> 400/110 = 3.63. Your outlet is protected by the CANBus system and will release every time it goes over the limit. Its the starting power (spike) that normally kills it. Its there because the gauge of the wiring and it would burn out the harness if it did not release. If you want to run higher loads wire direct to the battery with an appropriate gauge. I hade to do this with my fridge / freezer in my Jeep.

 

[Majortom]

If the motor or compressor will not draw over 400w sustained, you can use a 1500VA UPS to power up and run the device. The UPS battery and transformer will handle the surge. I've used one to run a air compressor and shop vac that will just trip the regular inverter.

If you need more than that, you are going to have to get a real Inverter or carry a generator.

So are you saying you plug the UPS into the 110 (allowing it to maintain a charge) then plug the device needing the 400w draw into the UPS thus letting the UPS take on the initial surge?

 

[KWKSLVR]

So are you saying you plug the UPS into the 110 (allowing it to maintain a charge) then plug the device needing the 400w draw into the UPS thus letting the UPS take on the initial surge?

I have a couple of these that need new batteries that I'm thinking about mounting in mine when it comes.

 

[Aseras]

So are you saying you plug the UPS into the 110 (allowing it to maintain a charge) then plug the device needing the 400w draw into the UPS thus letting the UPS take on the initial surge?

yes.