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1.5 Icon Springs reviews

jlake1

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I’ve heard isolators and sleeves mentioned in this thread. When I think of isolators, I think of the rubber mounts at the top and bottom of the coils that prevent steel on steel contact. Does the rear suspension not have these, or can they not be transferred over to aftermarket springs? When I think of spring sleeves I think of an actual sleeve that encases the wire and prevents noise from the spring going into coil bind (something that could happen on the progressively wound ICON’s. Just wondering which parts you are purchasing so I get the right stuff when I install my rear springs.

TIA!
 

BowersFJ

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I’ve heard isolators and sleeves mentioned in this thread. When I think of isolators, I think of the rubber mounts at the top and bottom of the coils that prevent steel on steel contact. Does the rear suspension not have these, or can they not be transferred over to aftermarket springs? When I think of spring sleeves I think of an actual sleeve that encases the wire and prevents noise from the spring going into coil bind (something that could happen on the progressively wound ICON’s. Just wondering which parts you are purchasing so I get the right stuff when I install my rear springs.

TIA!

Was thinking the same thing …. With a fairly new truck, you’d think the installer would use the stock isolators with the aftermarket springs


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SurfRebel20

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I’ve heard isolators and sleeves mentioned in this thread. When I think of isolators, I think of the rubber mounts at the top and bottom of the coils that prevent steel on steel contact. Does the rear suspension not have these, or can they not be transferred over to aftermarket springs? When I think of spring sleeves I think of an actual sleeve that encases the wire and prevents noise from the spring going into coil bind (something that could happen on the progressively wound ICON’s. Just wondering which parts you are purchasing so I get the right stuff when I install my rear springs.

TIA!
They are sleeves to prevent the coils from hitting each other at the top where they are closer. The factory sleeves are glued on and new sleeves come with the same glue so it's best to get new sleeves with a bead of fresh glue so they don't move. I put 2 sleeves on each spring at the top while springs were already installed
 

jlake1

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They are sleeves to prevent the coils from hitting each other at the top where they are closer. The factory sleeves are glued on and new sleeves come with the same glue so it's best to get new sleeves with a bead of fresh glue so they don't move. I put 2 sleeves on each spring at the top while springs were already installed
Thanks! You got a mfg/link on those new sleeves you bought?
 

SurfRebel20

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Thanks! You got a mfg/link on those new sleeves you bought?
I put one on the 2nd coil then skipped a coil for the 2nd one. I dipped them in soapy water first so that I could adjust them once on because the glue is very sticky. The soapy water gives you a cpl minutes of being able to slide them where you need before it dries up https://www.summitracing.com/parts/EIB-CS5002L
 

NewLove

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Has anyone upgraded to these from the ORP Springs?..


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NewLove

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That would only be 1/2” of lift …. Seems kinda pointless


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Yes.. but actually asking because of load stiffness.. Are these stiffer that would prevent rear squatting?


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BowersFJ

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Yes.. but actually asking because of load stiffness.. Are these stiffer that would prevent rear squatting?


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Just as a suggestion, Dobinson has a 2” spring with 2 different load capacities …. Couple guys here runnin the heavier load ones, and say they ride nice


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NewLove

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Just as a suggestion, Dobinson has a 2” spring with 2 different load capacities …. Couple guys here runnin the heavier load ones, and say they ride nice


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Yes.. I know of them also. I’m on the fence about new springs or just a one inch Rear puck to prevent the squat.


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Ramkofsky

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I am thinking of ordering the Icon 1.5” springs to install with the rear 1” RC puck that comes with the 3.5” RC lift kit (full 3.5” struts with N3 rear shocks, already purchased). Not ORG truck.
Has anyone done this? Is it worth it? Should I just go with Clayton 2.5” or Dobson 2”? I will be loading the bed from time to time… it’s a truck!
 

BowersFJ

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I am thinking of ordering the Icon 1.5” springs to install with the rear 1” RC puck that comes with the 3.5” RC lift kit (full 3.5” struts with N3 rear shocks, already purchased). Not ORG truck.
Has anyone done this? Is it worth it? Should I just go with Clayton 2.5” or Dobson 2”? I will be loading the bed from time to time… it’s a truck!

If you load the truck, I’d do the 500 lb Dobinsons


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mike_ct

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Mine turned into a pogo-stick after a year. Was like riding a bucking bronco. Put stockers back in with a spacer.
 

jimothy

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Mine turned into a pogo-stick after a year. Was like riding a bucking bronco. Put stockers back in with a spacer.
I’m also chiming in late, but under certain road conditions (lines/cracks across the pavement, highway speeds), I’m also running into this pogo-stick/bucking bronco situation. I don’t have the Icon shocks or springs, rather Fox 2.5 shocks and Dobinson 330-550lb rear springs). Off-road is fine, but highway can be a problem.

Anyway, I’m trying to find out where the problem lies: in the springs or in the shocks. I’m starting to suspect the springs. Did going back to stock springs with a spacer fox your issue?

Maybe that’s what I need to do (or try the lighter Dobinson springs).
 

ayoslickxd

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I’m also chiming in late, but under certain road conditions (lines/cracks across the pavement, highway speeds), I’m also running into this pogo-stick/bucking bronco situation. I don’t have the Icon shocks or springs, rather Fox 2.5 shocks and Dobinson 330-550lb rear springs). Off-road is fine, but highway can be a problem.

Anyway, I’m trying to find out where the problem lies: in the springs or in the shocks. I’m starting to suspect the springs. Did going back to stock springs with a spacer fox your issue?

Maybe that’s what I need to do (or try the lighter Dobinson springs).
i have the same set up as you no issues i off road. a bit in vermont and lots of highways in new york… i noticed my trucks moree planted now with the core 4x4 rear control arms
 

jimothy

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i have the same set up as you no issues i off road. a bit in vermont and lots of highways in new york… i noticed my trucks moree planted now with the core 4x4 rear control arms
Most of the time, I don’t have an issue. It only happens at highways speeds (around 60-80 mph), and only when there are several horizontal lines/cracks running across the highway.

I could probably do a better job explaining those lines. Certain types of pavements seem to develop fairly regularly spaced lines. They don’t appear to be expansion joints, as they appear to be jagged rather than straight (then again, I’m driving at 60 mph plus, so I could be wrong).

Just a crack or two doesn’t cause the bucking. It’s as if the truck develops a rhythm and the bucking increases. At one point on a road trip (I think we were in South Dakota), the bucking got so bad I had to pull over and adjust the Fox DSC shocks twice.

Closing the valves a few clicks made the situation tolerable so we could keep driving, but it didn’t eliminate it.

As mentioned, it’s only a problem in specific road conditions, but when it happens, it’s uncomfortable at best, and potentially dangerous at worst.

Washboards, rutted dirt roads, most paved roads, I’ve got no complaints. But somehow, I’ve got to get to the bottom of this bucking.
 

ayoslickxd

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Most of the time, I don’t have an issue. It only happens at highways speeds (around 60-80 mph), and only when there are several horizontal lines/cracks running across the highway.

I could probably do a better job explaining those lines. Certain types of pavements seem to develop fairly regularly spaced lines. They don’t appear to be expansion joints, as they appear to be jagged rather than straight (then again, I’m driving at 60 mph plus, so I could be wrong).

Just a crack or two doesn’t cause the bucking. It’s as if the truck develops a rhythm and the bucking increases. At one point on a road trip (I think we were in South Dakota), the bucking got so bad I had to pull over and adjust the Fox DSC shocks twice.

Closing the valves a few clicks made the situation tolerable so we could keep driving, but it didn’t eliminate it.

As mentioned, it’s only a problem in specific road conditions, but when it happens, it’s uncomfortable at best, and potentially dangerous at worst.

Washboards, rutted dirt roads, most paved roads, I’ve got no complaints. But somehow, I’ve got to get to the bottom of this bucking.
ahh you have the same issue i was having. hence why i changed my control arms …. is it like the wheels skip ?
 

jimothy

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ahh you have the same issue i was having. hence why i changed my control arms …. is it like the wheels skip ?
I don’t think the wheels are skipping. Bucking is the best description, with the front end dipping as the back raises, and vice versa. But the tires feel and sounds like they maintain contact with the ground.

The oscillations increase in amplitude as you drive over the affected pavement. On most of that road trip, the affected stretches of pavement were short, a couple hundred yards to a quarter of a mile perhaps. But there was a section that lasted for several miles, and it was then that the bucking became severe enough I had to pull off the highway.

I stiffened the DSC valves evenly (front and rear, high and low speed) two clicks, I think, then drove again. It was a little better, but still a problem, so I pulled off again and stiffened the rear another click on the high speed, and 2-3 more clicks on the load speed. I’ll admit I didn’t really know if these were the right adjustments to make, but it lessened the bucking and it felt safe driving on that pavement again.

If you’ve ever ridden a full suspension mountain bike with the rebound set too fast, this feels somewhat similar to that. The Fox DSC shocks don’t have an adjustable rebound, and I’m far from a truck suspension expert, but it sure feels to me like the rebound is not right.

I come to that conclusion mostly because of the tendency for the oscillations to increase in amplitude the more lines/cracks in the pavement I drive over. Each previous line adds to the up/down movement coming from the next line.

I plan on talking to the off-road shop that installed my shocks, not that I think they did something wrong, but because I hope they’ll have some advice and experience with suspension issues like this. (They did not, incidentally, pick the components; I did that and had them install). What’s kept me from doing that so far is that it’s tricky to explain (as you might have gathered by my long reply), and that I’ve only run into this issue once in the Atlanta metro area where I live. I probably can’t ask the folks at the shop to drive out to South Dakota with me. :) And even then, that stretch of highway was on the opposite end of town.

In other words, I’ve got to find some local stretch of road that exhibits the problem. If I can’t do that, I’ll just give them a call and maybe my awkward description will be enough to trigger some ideas.

Oh, I will consider upgrading the control arms, though. Too bad I missed the sale Core 4x4 just had.
 

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