0w 20 oil, to my surprise

[RcCola]

What the hell guys, so upset, I checked everywhere and even called service department, they assured me 5W 20 was the oil, bought it, did the oil change and upon replacing the cap Noticed it was 0W 20. It’s just fall, still in the 80s, it’s a brand new 23 limited’s hemi, not sure if I should drive it like this or go get it changed.

 

[ferraiolo1]

They changed to 0w20 in 22. You can run ether or. It doesn’t matter.

Most people prefer the 5w20. Seems to keep lifter noise down a bit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[User_3336]

What the hell guys, so upset, I checked everywhere and even called service department, they assured me 5W 20 was the oil, bought it, did the oil change and upon replacing the cap Noticed it was 0W 20. It’s just fall, still in the 80s, it’s a brand new 23 limited’s hemi, not sure if I should drive it like this or go get it changed.

Trade it.

 

[L Curtis]

What the hell guys, so upset, I checked everywhere and even called service department, they assured me 5W 20 was the oil, bought it, did the oil change and upon replacing the cap Noticed it was 0W 20. It’s just fall, still in the 80s, it’s a brand new 23 limited’s hemi, not sure if I should drive it like this or go get it changed.

5W 20 all day.

 

[Dewey]

What the hell guys, so upset, I checked everywhere and even called service department, they assured me 5W 20 was the oil, bought it, did the oil change and upon replacing the cap Noticed it was 0W 20. It’s just fall, still in the 80s, it’s a brand new 23 limited’s hemi, not sure if I should drive it like this or go get it changed.

Your truck is toast. I’ll buy it off you for $30k and save you some trouble trying to get rid of a damaged vehicle.

 

[kdoublep]

5w30

 

[RcCola]

Your truck is toast. I’ll buy it off you for $30k and save you some trouble trying to get rid of a damaged vehicle.

You’re probably right, send over the 30 K, once it clears, I will get the truck to you, you can trust me

 

[Dewey]

You’re probably right, send over the 30 K, once it clears, I will get the truck to you, you can trust me

Checks in the mail

 

[Scram1500]

People run all kinds of oil through the 5.7 Hemi, some use 0w 40 Mobil1 and others use boutique oil you've never heard of. You're fine using 5w 20 or 0w 20. The only minor potential issue is warranty stuff but they would have to prove that 5w wrecked your engine which is inconceivable

 

[jmr]

My 392 Scat Pack Challenger has MDS and 0W-40 is the recommended oil and be done every 6 months.
The 6.4 in the HD trucks also recommends 0W-40 so why not use that in the 5.7?

 

[silver billet]

My 392 Scat Pack Challenger has MDS and 0W-40 is the recommended oil and be done every 6 months.
The 6.4 in the HD trucks also recommends 0W-40 so why not use that in the 5.7?

I have run mobil 1 0w-40 in my truck last summer. That oil in particular is pretty good. No issues with MDS coming on/off (though I just tested it and never ran with it enabled all that much).

These days I stick to a good 5w-30, once the HT/HS is above 3.0 the oil is going to be strong enough for anything, especially if you use an oil that doesn't shear down that much or at all (so Redline 5w-30, anything from HPL etc).

 

[6of36]

My 392 Scat Pack Challenger has MDS and 0W-40 is the recommended oil and be done every 6 months.
The 6.4 in the HD trucks also recommends 0W-40 so why not use that in the 5.7?

Maybe because they are not the same engine as a 5.7. Different bearing clearances. Find "Engine Masters", they did an episode on oil viscosity. You can go a little thicker than recommended, but going too thick, the bearings won't get proper lubrication. Looser bearing clearances need higher viscosity, due to the space, to build proper pressure, where the tighter bearings need the thinner viscosity to flow in the tight clearances. 0w-20 lubricates just as good as 20w-50, as long as it has the flow.

 

[6of36]

Since my last post, I have gotten a lot of info, from experts. I have watched videos from Engine Masters, and Perfect Seal piston rings. The guys on Engine Masters, aren't experts, but run dyno tests on engines. They found that running too thick of oil for the bearing clearances, can actually starve the bearings, causing damage. The I believe owner, or at least a big wig, for Perfect Seal piston rings, is Lake Speed Jr., son of Lake Speed, the famous Nascar star. He is a highly degreed lubrication specialist. He said to run the specified weight of oil, recommended by the manufacturer, The engine is engineered for that oil. There are engineering charts to determine oil viscosity, he doesn't even use the term weight. He performed tests with different weights of oil, and using too thick of an oil, can cost up to 25HP loss. He also ran tests on different oils, to see the differences between different oils from the same company. He ran the scientific breakdown, and saw which additive were in which oil. He told the differences and said Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, had the best additive blends, to offer the best protection. He recommended not changing by the recommended intervals, not because of the oil breakdown, but rather the filter.

 

[silver billet]

Since my last post, I have gotten a lot of info, from experts. I have watched videos from Engine Masters, and Perfect Seal piston rings. The guys on Engine Masters, aren't experts, but run dyno tests on engines. They found that running too thick of oil for the bearing clearances, can actually starve the bearings, causing damage. The I believe owner, or at least a big wig, for Perfect Seal piston rings, is Lake Speed Jr., son of Lake Speed, the famous Nascar star. He is a highly degreed lubrication specialist. He said to run the specified weight of oil, recommended by the manufacturer, The engine is engineered for that oil. There are engineering charts to determine oil viscosity, he doesn't even use the term weight. He performed tests with different weights of oil, and using too thick of an oil, can cost up to 25HP loss. He also ran tests on different oils, to see the differences between different oils from the same company. He ran the scientific breakdown, and saw which additive were in which oil. He told the differences and said Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, had the best additive blends, to offer the best protection. He recommended not changing by the recommended intervals, not because of the oil breakdown, but rather the filter.

This is quite FUD-ish when written abstractly without comparing actual numbers. Are we comparing running 0w-20 vs 0w-70? Then yes, I'm sure at that point you're too think and damaging something.

If you're comparing running 0w-20 vs 0w-30, then no you will not damage anything. Viscosity is not a single number, it's a curve that follows temperature. It's extremely thick/viscous at -30C and very thin at 100C. Which means running a 0w-20 at -30 is far far thicker than running a 0w-30 at 70C. See chart below.

Furthermore, we can test for wear in an engine by reading UOA reports, and I've run everything from 5w-20 to 0w-40, and believe it or not the highest amounts of copper/iron in my oil were the one time I ran 5w-20. The 0w-40 did not have the lowest numbers, but it was a different brand of oil (for a start) and was also used while towing while the 5w-20 was just daily driven.

Chart generated at this site:

Oil Viscosity Chart | Lubrication Tools | Interlub

Use this tool to know the viscosity curves of up to 4 lubricating oils at the same time.

interlub.com

Just type in the properties of your oils and compare up to 4 different ones, this is HPL Premium Plus 0w-20 (blue) vs 0w-30 (red) and note how massive that viscosity swings below freezing temps (chart is in degrees celcius, 0 is freezing 100 is boiling)

 

[silver billet]

And here's the same chart though this time I added 5w-50 in green:

 

[6of36]

And here's the same chart though this time I added 5w-50 in green:


View attachment 172562

The graph is worthless. Your numbers show 0w50 almost 3 times as thick as 0w20 at 40 degrees, but the graph shows them the same. I will trust the guy with the degree in lubrication.

 

[mikeru82]

The graph is worthless. Your numbers show 0w50 almost 3 times as thick as 0w20 at 40 degrees, but the graph shows them the same. I will trust the guy with the degree in lubrication.

From what I see in looking at that graph is there is no way to really see the difference of 77 at 40 degrees because the scale of the graph is too coarse. The first point on the Y axis is 2000. At that scale, 47 and 124 would be nearly the same point. He obviously added that graph to show the differences between those viscosities on the colder end of the scale.

 

[silver billet]

The graph is worthless. Your numbers show 0w50 almost 3 times as thick as 0w20 at 40 degrees, but the graph shows them the same. I will trust the guy with the degree in lubrication.

This graph is absolutely perfect, the fact that you're not understanding what you're seeing on that graph is why you don't get that it's not a problem to run a w30.

What's thicker? 0w-20 at -30C, or 0w-30 at -25C?

The hemi can handle the viscosity of 0w-20 at -30 C and far lower than that, notice how incredibly thick it is at that temp? Now look at the chart again at -25, and note how much thinner the w30 at -25C is vs the w20wat -30.

In other words, if your engine/bearings/clearances can tolerate 0w-20 at -30 then it can easily tolerate 0w-30 at -25 since it's so much thinner.

For people living in extreme arctic conditions at -40 or colder, I'd probably choose a 20 weight too, but for everyone else there is 0 issue.

From what I see in looking at that graph is there is no way to really see the difference of 77 at 40 degrees because the scale of the graph is too coarse. The first point on the Y axis is 2000. At that scale, 47 and 124 would be nearly the same point. He obviously added that graph to show the differences between those viscosities on the colder end of the scale.

The web page I used has no controls for changing the graph scales, what you see is what you get. The point being, your engine sees a massive amount of variation in viscosity as it goes from -35 all the way to 120+ C.

What really matters is cold temp startups (so I agree that in artic conditions one might want a thinner oil), but the other common place for wear is when the oil is hot and there HT/HS is absolutely critical, 20w's generally sit below 3.0 and perhaps that engineer would like to comment on how hard this is on the wear of your engine.

 

[ferraiolo1]

Hey you never know when you’re going to need to road trip to Antarctica.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[St-na]

This is quite FUD-ish when written abstractly without comparing actual numbers. Are we comparing running 0w-20 vs 0w-70? Then yes, I'm sure at that point you're too think and damaging something.

If you're comparing running 0w-20 vs 0w-30, then no you will not damage anything. Viscosity is not a single number, it's a curve that follows temperature. It's extremely thick/viscous at -30C and very thin at 100C. Which means running a 0w-20 at -30 is far far thicker than running a 0w-30 at 70C. See chart below.

Furthermore, we can test for wear in an engine by reading UOA reports, and I've run everything from 5w-20 to 0w-40, and believe it or not the highest amounts of copper/iron in my oil were the one time I ran 5w-20. The 0w-40 did not have the lowest numbers, but it was a different brand of oil (for a start) and was also used while towing while the 5w-20 was just daily driven.

Chart generated at this site:

Oil Viscosity Chart | Lubrication Tools | Interlub

Use this tool to know the viscosity curves of up to 4 lubricating oils at the same time.

interlub.com

Just type in the properties of your oils and compare up to 4 different ones, this is HPL Premium Plus 0w-20 (blue) vs 0w-30 (red) and note how massive that viscosity swings below freezing temps (chart is in degrees celcius, 0 is freezing 100 is boiling)

View attachment 172561

Very interesting observation, any chance to see Your oil analysis report? Are You taking oil sample always from the drain plug? Same oil brands?