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Good to know!! Thank you Ethan

Quick question for everyone, how dangerous/risky is it to continue driving with a cracked manifold? I don’t think the crack is bad and definitely not a hole yet, but it’s definitely got a crack somewhere. How bad is it to keep driving it while I wait on a part?

I need the passenger side haha. Unfortunately I can’t find them anywhere. I guess I can order and just wait but with the strikes going on I’m sure no one is makin any

Well just my luck, once you add them to your cart they’re on back order.

I just looked at your links really quick and it’s $75 for all of that?! Manifold, gaskets, hardware….that can’t be right. That’s way too cheap right?

You guys are awesome. Thanks for helping me! I’ll be looking into these today to see what I can get. I guess car-part is reliable? Wasn’t sure if they were trustworthy or sketchy like most eBay sellers 😂

Yea there’s definitely a benefit of going with true headers, just not in my case. Don’t need to e performance and sound boost, and I go through trucks pretty quickly so spending that kinda money (while worth it) doesn’t make sense for me in the short run. I’d go back with oem but the damn back...

I’m considering it but damn most of the shorty headers are like $800 and up. I don’t really need all that comes with the shorties

Well 53k in and I have a cracked manifold. I can’t find any broken bolts or anything and I’ve heard the 5th gens it tends to be the actual manifold that cracks now. There’s a nationwide backorder on the manifolds, and I really don’t wanna put the same crappy part back on to break again. My...

Yes I have and still wasn’t flexing the woofer portion. However I did hook it up to my lower door speaker to test it and it worked fine. It’s clearly a frequency issue as the others stated

Ok so in other words it’s acting as it should? I know very little about audio other than what my ears tell me. I appreciate all the help

Ok well I guess I don’t know what “midrange” sounds like haha. It’s not odd that the woofer cone doesn’t move at all even a high volume and midrange turned up high?

Hey guys sorry to bring this all back up, but I just replaced my dash corner speakers with the CS kickers. Haven’t really had a chance to test them thoroughly, but after running some quick music through them I noticed the tweeter is good, but the outer woofer part isn’t moving much (or at all)...

Can’t thank you enough. This is not my forte so I greatly appreciate the help and insight

Man that’s interesting and sounds way too complicated for my smallish brain. I’ll just go with plug in correctly and hope for the best. Thanks again

Got ya! Thanks that’s very helpful. Is there a reason to ever switch the wiring? I hear about guys reversing the polarity and the only thing in my mind that makes that make sense would be wiring yellow to white/black as an example

I’m still open to do the CDT’s but I’m unsure if the factory amp would send enough to them to make it worth it. How will I know if the polarity is matched up or not? And does using the harness change the polarity? This is all new to me

Thanks for the recommendation! And it seems like every time I think I’ve got this all down and figured out, I get tripped up by something new. It’s polarity this time. If I’m buying the 2 lower front doors (4 ohms) and the dash speakers (also 4 ohms) and the metra wiring harness, will I need...

Okay had a good conversation with the guys at Crutchfield and I learned that those of us with the HK system, almost all speakers in the truck run at 4-4.5 ohms. Also, crutchfield said they believe the door speaker’s specifically would only receive about 30 watts rms. For those with the Alpine...

I believe you are correct about the factory speakers being 2 ohm. However there are essentially no aftermarket speakers that are 2 ohm. Almost everything (@crutchfield) is 4 ohms. I also wasn’t aware that the difference in ohms would affect the amp. I thought it would only affect the speakers...