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Update, they also replaced the drivers door module and now everything works. The tech found no root cause.

The problem is the rear window is put into a plastic frame and it cracks in the corners (you can see it) I used flowable silicone on the corners and have had a problem. I also bought some rubber weatherstriping and redone the third brake light. Strange that this forum doesn't talk about these fixes.

Hi All! I have a 2019 RAM 5.7 e-torque and was driving around and multiple things happened at once. I was driving around with my heated seat and wheel on low listening to the radio and the screen went blank and a smell of burnt electronics filled the cabin. Lucky I bought the warranty and the...

I had the same situation on my 19' Longhorn with the e-transfer case being low. It appears to be coming out of the rear main seal. There's no major drips just you can see a little dampness.

You also have to be careful in icy conditions as when the etorque system starts back up it will buck the rear end of the vehicle. In those conditions best to turn it off.

If it doesn't jerk when starting and if you're hearing a loud exhaust surge, then everything is normal.

It depends how hard you push the brake pedal. I know if I don't push the pedal down hard all the way the engine doesn't shut off.

I made the mistake on saying clutch wear as the front deferential is geared and I should of said gear wear. Now my e-transfer case was low and had quite a bit of clutch wear based on the amount of super fine shavings in the drained fluid.

I would wager that as long as you're using a synthetic 0W-20 you're better off using the correct weight. Since these engines have oiling problems at low RPMs, the thinner weight I would wager helps the volume.

I found the transfer case fluid low. So I drained and filled it up with the Ravenoil BW 44 fluid and the clunk is gone.

I use woolwax, it's a little thicker than fluid film and works great!

I found that the BW transfer case was low on fluid. I changed the fluid and put it to the correct level and the clunk has disappeared.

I have husky and think they're pretty good.

I have a 19' 1500 5.7 with etorque and a 3.21 rear end. On the highway I can get 20-22 MPG, mixed is 17-19 MPG, city is pretty dismal at 15-16 MPG. I run Michelin snow tires year around and sold the factory tires as I run my truck mostly in the fall/winter. I have 12k on the Odo.

To be honest, it seems that the dealer didn't do a good job repairing the head. Reignited on YouTube documented a shotty repair job. I'd be curious what all they did for the repair.

I know this is a Ram forum, by my wife's Hyundai does the same thing. I took it in and had it checked under warranty but was told there's no leaks. My 19' Ram doesn't have this smell to my knowledge as I never noticed it.

What about the solid aluminum driveshaft? Where do you grease those? Mine seems to clunk when it downshifts or upshifts from first to second.

I just wanted to share my experience as I just changed my front and rear diff fluid with 10k on the clock. I have a 19' 5.7 4x4 with a 3.21 diff. The front diff was actually low with no visible leaks and I ended up using Redline 75w-85 GL5 gear oil (the front diff is made by ZF). I used Mobil 1...

It should be noted that the oil weight is very important for the cylinder deactivation to work correctly. Most of the accounts of seized lifters was due to incorrect oil. That being said I have a huge stash of shell gas truck and Mobil 1 Extended Performance.

I think tires also have a lot to do with it. I put Michelin's in and it helped 1-2%.