Search results

I replaced both LED headlights with aftermarket ones that I siliconed around the lens to make sure they don't leak, so far so good. I took apart the old lights and the engineering is appalling, in that the outer LED ballast (for LED strip) the wiring connection block was coming off the circuit...

https://a.co/d/65wUqes This what I used.

Liqui Moly ATF 1800 is OK and works fine in the ZF 8HP75 transmission. I used that fluid and it shifts great and used a dorman pan as you buy into their system that you can change the filter layer and not the whole pan. From doing service on two 8HP75 transmissions so far, changing the fluid...

The third brake light should be resealed using all weatherstrip from Lowes. The windows needs to used liquid silicone to seal the groove; I used a syringe. Please make sure that the groove is cleaned really well before you apply the silicone.

Only one way to fix this issue. You have to reseal thr rear brake light and use liquid silicone on the exterior windows groove. I did the work myself and no more leaks. Looks like they still haven't fixed the issue.

Well my truck 19 longhorn (23k on odo) and I'm having a problem with the steering wheel not returning to center and is clocked to the right some. After a few miles the steering rack recenters. I don't have any codes so I'll check the grounds and see where I land.

Update, they also replaced the drivers door module and now everything works. The tech found no root cause.

The problem is the rear window is put into a plastic frame and it cracks in the corners (you can see it) I used flowable silicone on the corners and have had a problem. I also bought some rubber weatherstriping and redone the third brake light. Strange that this forum doesn't talk about these fixes.

Hi All! I have a 2019 RAM 5.7 e-torque and was driving around and multiple things happened at once. I was driving around with my heated seat and wheel on low listening to the radio and the screen went blank and a smell of burnt electronics filled the cabin. Lucky I bought the warranty and the...

I had the same situation on my 19' Longhorn with the e-transfer case being low. It appears to be coming out of the rear main seal. There's no major drips just you can see a little dampness.

You also have to be careful in icy conditions as when the etorque system starts back up it will buck the rear end of the vehicle. In those conditions best to turn it off.

If it doesn't jerk when starting and if you're hearing a loud exhaust surge, then everything is normal.

It depends how hard you push the brake pedal. I know if I don't push the pedal down hard all the way the engine doesn't shut off.

I made the mistake on saying clutch wear as the front deferential is geared and I should of said gear wear. Now my e-transfer case was low and had quite a bit of clutch wear based on the amount of super fine shavings in the drained fluid.

I would wager that as long as you're using a synthetic 0W-20 you're better off using the correct weight. Since these engines have oiling problems at low RPMs, the thinner weight I would wager helps the volume.

I found the transfer case fluid low. So I drained and filled it up with the Ravenoil BW 44 fluid and the clunk is gone.

I use woolwax, it's a little thicker than fluid film and works great!

I found that the BW transfer case was low on fluid. I changed the fluid and put it to the correct level and the clunk has disappeared.

I have husky and think they're pretty good.

I have a 19' 1500 5.7 with etorque and a 3.21 rear end. On the highway I can get 20-22 MPG, mixed is 17-19 MPG, city is pretty dismal at 15-16 MPG. I run Michelin snow tires year around and sold the factory tires as I run my truck mostly in the fall/winter. I have 12k on the Odo.