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Do they actually solve the problem for your wife? Many running boards fit so high and tight to the bottom of the vehicle that they end up barely providing any benefit. This is why the PRB's are so desirable. In my case, I drive my 84yo father around and there's no way he's getting in without...
I changed front and rear brakes at 110K miles, but only because the rears were almost gone. The fronts easily had 60% of the pad left still. I am confident I would have easily got to 150K, probably way more. Full disclosure - I do a lot of highway miles, but still!
@Cbty2050 I've got a cracked window frame (power sliding glass rear window) but no leak that I can detect. Is this a matter of time before it leaks? I gotta get into my dealer for the Active Air Dam CEL/U11E9 problem so wondering if I should have them mess with it. I have the warranty...
I replaced mine just over a year ago at 110K miles. Surprising to me, the rears were almost gone and the fronts still had easily 50% of the pad left. I replaced all pads & rotors anyway, but I was pretty shocked to see how good the fronts were at that mileage. (I do drive a lot of...
2019 Laramie CC 4WD. 142,000miles
-Battery replaced just last week
-Right side Exhaust manifold covered by CPO warranty at 97K
-CHMSL gasket replaced.
-rear sway links replaced at 140K
-driveline fluids replaced at 100K
-all brakes replaced at about 110K, only the rears actually needed...
Yeah, this is why its curious to me. It seems specifically related to low-voltage vs. normal or no voltage. I've disconnected/reconnected my battery also with no issues. The morning my truck wouldn't start I did not have all the lights/malfunctions until I had driven it a fair bit, during...
Interesting. Was either battery "bad" at the time you replaced them? I think the problems are a result of a BCM/ECM reaction to low voltage. At the time of replacement my battery would only read 9.1 volts, even after a 60 mile highway drive where the voltage monitor was showing 14.4VDC out.
So three days after I post in another threead that my truck must have a "unicorn" battery because the original was still going even after 5+years and 140K miles, karma reared its head. While not my first choice, circumstances lead me to get it replaced at Walmart this morning. Not the fastest...
Well, Karma bit me in the ***. Woke up this morning to a dead battery. I guess I really can’t complain. Sorry for the threadjack.
OP, curious what you ended up doing.
Not around here. (Central Ohio) Every new-construction home I've looked at in the last 5-6 years, the garage is usually no deeper that 20-22 feet. I've actually measured them. It's ridiculous that they are made so small, BUT WAIT, with some builders you can opt for additional garage space at...
I can only speak from the 5'7" box perspective. Relative to a car or midsize SUV, parking will always be harder, though not difficult. I usually back in to spots because it's faster than doing the pull-in, back-up, pull back in thing that is often necessary. My truck doesn't fit in my garage...
I'm thinking I have the unicorn battery. Battery is original on my 2019 DT with 140K miles. Knock on wood.
OP...I don't think it has been mentioned yet...it will take several on/off cycles and drives for all the codes to clear once your battery is replaced.
If in fact the problems were due to a bad battery then it will likely take several short drives, on/off cycles, etc to reset the entire system. Are you getting a higher charging voltage? If not, then have your alternator checked.
I've had several sets of the M/S across several trucks and SUV's over the years...have always been excellent in all conditions, including light off-road, however only on the RAM I notice a bit more road noise, which is surprising. I'd be surprised if the M/S2 is much different, but I'm curious...
When you installed the new battery did you happen to leave the new one disconnected for maybe 10-15 minutes, or hook it back up right away? I'd try leaving it disconnected for a half hour and try again.
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