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I'll do some playing once I have mine changed out and one of the OEM shocks in my hands for comparison. The two biggest concerns I have is if the body of the shock is the same thickness the full length, or at least in the area where we would machine in the second groove and if the ring is spring...
Factory installed though, I'm speculating on it's reliability if modified to work...on my daily driver, that sees 25-40K miles a year at almost 90% highway speeds...
Just saying, maybe not the ideal test platform...;)
It seems straight forward but I just don't know if it's worth the risk to modify something that seems so precarious in the first place. What happens if that clip shears off?
Most sites are allowing me to order the OEM shocks today but once I get to the payment portion, they still say...
The rears are readily available from multiple sources and I got them installed last night. I went with the same Bilstein 24-228848's that you did.
I would have had them installed last weekend but one showed up without the hardware and I had to order a replacement.
The ride to work was much...
National backorder on the front shocks, no estimated shipping date and they aren't even taking orders to get in line for when they are available.
MoparPartsOnline is the only site I've found that would let you actually place an order and they are $369.34/each.
As for that groove, I'd love to...
I'm at 122k miles and experiencing a shimmy that I believe is wheel hop due to worn out shocks. I've got 4600's ordered for the rear but all the Mopar suppliers are showing the fronts as backordered. I'm tempted to order a pair of the 24-329132's just to find out if I can make them work.
But...
I swapped clusters on a truck and approached a dealer about making the new cluster match the original mileage and you’d have thought I was asking them to commit grand larceny. They walked away from the counter and refused to talk to me any further.
Legally I can swap the cluster, I just need...
I replaced mine at 115K miles. Lot's of pad life left but like you, I had a bit of shaking so I did pads and rotors as part of my 100k mile refresh.
I also felt they weren't grabbing as well as they could after an emergency braking moment a month or two earlier to avoid some deer and I had some...
The ambient lighting was much better in my 17 RAM than my 19 so I upgraded my ambient LED boards to Paragoptics Blue. Not a cheap upgrade but I love the effect and they are plenty bright enough. I believe they offer it in an RGBW kit now rather than just a single color option.
IIRC, the chip...
Yup, 118,000 miles and still nice and quiet. I stand by my decision that even if the replacement OEM cracked again, I was further ahead than trying headers.
My drivers side is still the factory unit and has no detectable cracks yet.
Yes, we are all of the above, and then some. But we are also human and responded to half the story because that's all you gave us.
Knowing the whole story, I would have signed the truck over to you and let you do whatever you wanted. But honestly, knowing your position, I would have made it 100%...
If I was your friend, I wouldn't accept 4th gen lights, nor would I let you butcher the wiring harness. Fix it right or don't touch it at all!
Have you looked on ebay, Amazon, LKQ, etc,,, there should be aftermarket lights available that are more budget friendly than OEM.
Mine has started doing this same thing on the passenger side of the window pillar. I've owned the truck since new, (watched it roll off the truck), and the windshield is still OEM at 112,000 miles so it's very unlikely there's ever been damage or repair in that area.
My search didn't come up...
I would say it depends on the dealership. Mine is always backed up and I travel for work so I just opted to do the replacement myself when it was convenient to me.
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