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My Laramie sport/org has no chrome except for the random badges. Plus rebel hood.. Edit: I see the sticker lists the sport hood on the night edition too - so yeah, do it!!!

Fwiw, before I bought the 19 BH, I really wanted 18’s too. I figured lighter and cheaper to replace tires when the time came. However that truck came with the 20” clad wheels and nexans. I absolutely loved those tires (admittedly only ~8000 miles worth). That truck rode smooth, plush and...

Saw this meme the other day and thought it was fairly accurate:

37” tires on 17” wheels (curious how they stuff enough brake in that 17” hole) and a coil sprung rear. Still using a v6 with 2 hairdryers though...

I really liked the rebel too, but required a 6’4” bed, so Laramie ORP it was. Ventilated seats are 100% worth it.

I’ll chime in. Had a 19 bighorn level 2. Now a 20 Laramie level 1, but with a bunch of packages (see sig). I loved the bighorn. Only regret on the bh was tow gears (I needed the 3.92), and it didn’t have the led package. The Laramie has everything I wanted and nothing I didn’t EXCEPT for...

I’m showing my age here I’m sure, but so be it.. I recently moved to Vegas area. Huge truck culture out here, yuuuge. And I keep seeing (or hearing actually) a bunch of v6 ferds with custom exhaust. Why? Universally, V6’s sound like ***. (Alfa Giulia Quadrifoglio excepted). Making it...

At 7k your fine. Smart to hit the scales though! I presume your longhorn already had airride, so worst case you might wanna add a sway control wdh.

Oh and by stiffer (on the ride), I mean more like a truck. Non orp ride like a luxury car.

Lots of good advice on this thread. My .02: Like you I buy for the long haul - Traded an 04 Titan on my 19 bighorn crew 4x4. 36,5 before trade, title, tax & tags, but didn’t get as swell a deal when I upgraded to the 20 Laramie (I know I said long haul - I had a very rare problem with the 19...

My biggest peeve is it doesn’t remember t/h mode, especially since I KNOW it knows there’s a trailer back there... :). So maybe just the draw on the 7 pin is necessary for the trailer bls system.

Hmmm. I think you need to be in both tow/haul mode, AND have the cancan bus sense a draw on your trailer connector? I’ve never seen the trailer icon bls light up without the trailer attached..

Fwiw, most wdh are adjustable so these percentages can vary. I moved 200 lbs off the rear axle just by adding a washer to my hitch (forcing spring bars down, adding more tension).

I recently drove cross country near max limits and my 26 gallon tank had me looking for gas every 150 miles. I too thought of the six transfer tank, I just did mine the extremely manual way: 2 5 gallon plastic Jerry cans in the bed. Fortunately I never needed them, but it was worth the peace...

I learned something new today, I searched the forum, couldn’t find a related thread so I thought I’d share... My last truck (Nissan Titan) had a crap eBrake. I never used it as I’d found it was mostly a one-time-use-only thing (shoes would delaminate easily). So long story longer, I don’t use...

It was a one and done. I won’t be doing that again. :)

If it helps any I was right up on the limits. ~9800lbs on the trailer, ~7000 on the truck. 7 - 8.6 mpg, 60-72 mph most of the trip. I’ve actually debated changing the tranny fluid too, but the highest temp I saw there was 199. And I used tow mode for all but perhaps 1 or 2 of those 2400...

Actually, I do have an email. 4400 miles and 32%:

I didn’t make a screen-shot to prove it, but at 4600 total miles my oil life was at 29%. I did subject my truck to 2400 miles of severe towing duty in the later part of that.. My guess is it’s probably several factors, but primarily fuel consumption. I burned over 300 gallons on that trip..

You won’t be as heavy (I had a motorcycle onboard too - k1200gt) so that should help. My trailer has the v-nose too. I even waxed it before the trip (prior life in aviation taught me clean, waxed aircraft generally pick up a handful of knots in cruise). Even empty, 10-11 was as good as I got...