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Not yet, trying to confirm it will fit on a 19 then it’ll likely be a few weeks. Have a lot going on right now

I literally found this thread while searching some old FS threads to get a market price on my touring system. Like many others, this is way louder in person than any video has ever represented. Understandably it’s hard to convey via a video, but I’m glad I found this thread and I’ll give it a...

Ok so slight update, I tested what you said and I think the problem is actually my passenger side. I noticed that when I turn it off then on the drivers side works and passenger does not. I assume like you were saying the passenger has a bad sensor

As stated, my drivers side mirror has the auto dim on permanently. Tried to do some researching on my own and coming up empty. Hoping you guys can help troubleshoot, thank you in advance

Thanks man, I have the BD Squadrons. Right now it’s tapped to stud N02, I’ve been working with Boogielander trying to get power sorted out since F37 & F44 which are most common are not powered for me. Going to try F38 next

Been messing around with this the last few weekends, still finalizing power source but got my SwitchPro & SKT Customs grill mounted. Don’t mind the messy truck.

According to that thread the second stud from the firewall only comes on during ACC or Run. This may solve my problem as long as these braindead engineers didn’t do something stupid lol Edit: the guy was Canadian, we may be back to square one lol. I’m going to try and check tomorrow

Let’s say hypothetically, I hook the switch pro to one of the studs, with no lights on how quickly would it drain the battery (although I do see that it should turn itself off) I wish I could smack whatever ram engineer decided not to power any of these fuses.

Do you know what fuse number this is? I think id prefer to tape the fuse

Could you explain this to me like I’m 5 lol. I am trying to keep the battery from draining because I only drive it on weekends

Correct, I’m running out of options it seems. I’m going to test the studs and see if any of those are off while truck is off

Imagine how much work it would be to arbitrarily wire some, why not just wire all of them

I think this is likely my issue, this is the most brain dead thing I’ve ever heard. I feel like I’m running out of options to power my switch pro. I really don’t want to tap F60

Are you aware of any way to “equip” F44 in the computer? My F44 & F37 aren’t drawing any power and I can’t power my switch pro. (don’t want to tap F60 & I’m hesitant to tap the studs because I only drive it on the weekends) Edit: can this be added via TazerDT possibly?

This is a multi layered thread as I’m currently trying to install my switch pro. For reference, I am using the CJC Dash Mount (picture attached) and the Switch Pro 1. I have the mount ready to receive power, and with the screen removed I can see daylight. There is a little hole to the bottom...

Installed the SDHQ Battery Terminal Kit, hopefully I’ll be able to install the switch pro & lights tomorrow

I literally looked at the photo and clicked off lol if someone tries then before me post some pics

I thought the same thing

I thought about that actually, I may be an extra set when I pick up the tow hooks and see if I can get something to look clean

I’m looking at the oem version that has the bezels, but the 2500s have a black piece that goes behind the hooks so you don’t see any space behind the hooks