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I used an aftermarket set from amazon with bezels. The powder coat faded and is showing signs it may rust. My advice would be to rattle can them with a matte black for extra protection before install.

No. Maybe a bead of water here or there (almost like condensation) Not worth messing with to me.

No air ride and no issues. I planned to level it, but im 6' tall and can barely see over the sport hood as it is.

On the off chance you are near PA. I have a full set of Bilstein front adjustable 5100s and 1" lift rear B12 springs with the rear 0-2" B8 shocks for sale. Brand new in box. Priced to move. I have an post in the WTB/WTS/WTT area.

Thanks everyone. I have had rear 5100s and the B12 springs in the garage for nearly a year waiting for the front 5100s. Now that I got them, im debating if I want to do 1.3" in front and leave the rear alone, or 2.1" and lift the rear the 1". Guess I'll look for Mopar UCAs from their 2" lift if...

Sorry, I mean does the tire size contribute to the ball joint angle

So am I. There is an ORG shock for the rear as well. Also Bilstein, Eibach ect... for use with longer rear springs

Does tire size come into play when considering the need for UCAs? For example a 3"+ lift should have new UCAs from what I gather. So if do a 2" level with adjustable struts and went from 32" tires to 34" does that come into play? Taking me closer to that 3" threshold?

Yes, but you should have the ORG or other strut made for a 1"-2" lift. I think you can find new take-off ORG struts on ebay or elsewhere.

I had them on backorder since January at Summit. (Finally shipped) Summit and Shock Surplus still show them in stock. Im guessing most people were notified via email alert if they really want them, but what the heck.

I put 285/55/R22 on my stock 20' Laramie Night Edition, non ORP. and they fit. Now the 305 is wider, but it should be fine. Worst case you may need to heat and bend, snip, or zip tie back a tiny flap of wheel well liner on the fronts.

There are actually issues with anything under 1.25" or 1.5" spacers. Stud length, pocket on the back of the wheel, ect... do some searching.

Blaster Surface Shield. Its a newer product. Like FluidFilm, but supposed to last 2 years. I used it on my Ram, but have no experience with other products so I cant compare.

There is a .5" Wolf spacer.

It does look like the 2 ends have a gap. But heck, looks fine to me. (MValdez pictures. I didnt see these more recent posts) MValdez, Is that the EGR? I have a white night edition, so black would look good I think. Its crazy a company cant make another mold for a sunroof 🙄

I find it odd the front is the same. My truck is .5" lower on the drivers side front and rear. Its very common for the drivers side to be lower. Possibly having to do with the grade of the road while driving and keeping the truck a little more level. Fuel tank is also on the drivers side...

I paid the $218 they are Summit for now. I dont know where the link is, but in another thread there was a link to take off ORP couls and struts. They were cheap

The tophat spacers are easiest and cheapest. Dont have to compress the spring and take the strut out. Just a puck to bolt on top. The Bilstein or other adjustable struts replace the strut of course and involve more disassembly

I would like to hear some feedback too. I cant help with the ride, but I have a set in my garage and dont think I am going to use them. Just going to level now I think and install the 5100's front and rear. For the money I would grab ORG springs for $50 I think. I bought my B12 springs before I...

Interesting. From what I read the rain channels are different. After you post yours can someone post a picture of a non sunroof cab? Id like to get one if it would work.