5thGenRams Forums

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

180 degree thermostat

You can leave the computer/fan stock and still see a major benefit by running (for example) a 180. If you want the fan to come on sooner, that is yet another benefit and thing you can do, but it doesn't have to be done to see a benefit.

The 180 by itself is so effective in my usage, I personally don't need to worry about the fan.
Excellent to hear this, thank you👍
 
Ok, well that was a productive conversation. Im thinking about putting a 190 thermostat in mine. (Maybe 180 but that seems to ruffle some feathers) Hitting over 220 when towing 6k camper in 50* ambient. Would not mind running a bit cooler than that. But, but the computer will add more fuel! Thats ok I have a S&B intake, AWE exhaust suite, catch can and Im into the throttle pedal quite a bit anyway. If anything more fuel is probably a good thing with how opened up my Hemi is. According to our AI overloads 240 is overheating and 250 is critical. A 20* window between “happy engine” and “overheating” is a bit too close for my comfort. Im at 83k on my 2019 5.7 so Im ready for a coolant flush and weighing my options here. From what I gathered from the fragmented conversation is 203* is factory and people see much lower temps with a 180. Im thinking a 190 to keep it closer to factory but reduce coolant temp somewhat while towing.

Also, for the record, I was running an oil filter relocation kit which helped oil and coolant temps somewhat but lowed oil pressure about 5psi and right now it is removed to get new seals. May or may not reinstall.
If you were hitting 220, when towing, with the factory thermostat, going to a 180 or 190 won't prevent it from getting that hot again. Will just extend the time it takes to get that warm. the factory thermostat was fully open by 205, so the only reason it should get hotter than say 210 would be lack of airflow through radiator, or something else in system not up to proper efficiency. Changing the fan turn on speeds, even with factory thermostat will help keep it from hitting 220.
 
You can leave the computer/fan stock and still see a major benefit by running (for example) a 180. If you want the fan to come on sooner, that is yet another benefit and thing you can do, but it doesn't have to be done to see a benefit.

The 180 by itself is so effective in my usage, I personally don't need to worry about the fan.
What "major" benefit do you get from a 180 stat exactly??
 
If you were hitting 220, when towing, with the factory thermostat, going to a 180 or 190 won't prevent it from getting that hot again.
I do not think its an efficiency problem because it runs 200-210 when not towing. While towing a 6k camper, into the wind no less, i was in either 5th or 6th gear most of the time at 60-65mph. This is 2000-2800 rpms for extended times which just does not happen when not towing a heavy load. Normally its in 8th gear at ~1600 rpm at 70mph. So the constant higher revs increase coolant temp faster, in this case fast enough for it to hit 221* before the tstat opened up which I can tell exactly when it opens because the temps drop back to 205-210 pretty quick. If the tstat opened earlier/lower temp then I don't think it will spike that high because coolant is flowing sooner. Just like if you take the tstat completely out then the engine would never heat up properly. A lower temp tstat is letting the coolant circulate more and thereby removing more heat.
 
I do not think its an efficiency problem because it runs 200-210 when not towing. While towing a 6k camper, into the wind no less, i was in either 5th or 6th gear most of the time at 60-65mph. This is 2000-2800 rpms for extended times which just does not happen when not towing a heavy load. Normally its in 8th gear at ~1600 rpm at 70mph. So the constant higher revs increase coolant temp faster, in this case fast enough for it to hit 221* before the tstat opened up which I can tell exactly when it opens because the temps drop back to 205-210 pretty quick. If the tstat opened earlier/lower temp then I don't think it will spike that high because coolant is flowing sooner. Just like if you take the tstat completely out then the engine would never heat up properly. A lower temp tstat is letting the coolant circulate more and thereby removing more heat.
if your tstat is not opening until 221 you might have another issue
 
I do not think its an efficiency problem because it runs 200-210 when not towing. While towing a 6k camper, into the wind no less, i was in either 5th or 6th gear most of the time at 60-65mph. This is 2000-2800 rpms for extended times which just does not happen when not towing a heavy load. Normally its in 8th gear at ~1600 rpm at 70mph. So the constant higher revs increase coolant temp faster, in this case fast enough for it to hit 221* before the tstat opened up which I can tell exactly when it opens because the temps drop back to 205-210 pretty quick. If the tstat opened earlier/lower temp then I don't think it will spike that high because coolant is flowing sooner. Just like if you take the tstat completely out then the engine would never heat up properly. A lower temp tstat is letting the coolant circulate more and thereby removing more heat.
S that's not how thermostats work. The amount they flow is pretty much the same whether you have a 160 thermostat or a 210 thermostat. The only thing that changes is when they open. And as bigDodge said, if your thermostat isn't opening until 220 then you may just need a new thermostat. My guess is, that what you are seeing is when the fans kick on and start pulling more air. Lower the setting in the tune for when the fans kick on, and you won't see that spike .
 
This is not true. When they are closed they flow very little and keep the coolant in the block via bypass ports. If they always flowed the same there would be no point to it. Tstats open when they reach a certain temp and allow the full flow to the radiator. Thats why lower tstats circulate the coolant more often.
 
This is not true. When they are closed they flow very little and keep the coolant in the block via bypass ports. If they always flowed the same there would be no point to it. Tstats open when they reach a certain temp and allow the full flow to the radiator. Thats why lower tstats circulate the coolant more often.
You completely misunderstood everything I said. Once they are open the flow rates are the same. A 180 thermostat, fully open by 185, flows the same as a 203 thermostat fully open by 208. If your engine, with a 203 thermostat is hitting 220 degrees, dropping to a 180 thermostat isnt going to prevent that, if no other changes are made. It will just take a little longer to get there.
 
Flow is the same pressure when open yes, but flow volume is increased due to the Tstat opening earlier in the heat cycle. So it will bring temps down when driving due to the air flow. Sitting in traffic with the fan on, yes it wont be any different than the OEM.
 
Thanks for all the info guys, im going to start with a flush and a new oem stat and go from there. Maybe grab a 190 tstat and be the test dummy..
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top